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KAXl) MtXALLY .V- C();S 
PICTORIAL GUIDE 

TO 

WASHINGTON 

IxcMDiNu Complete Desciui-tions of the Caimtol. Liukaky ok 

Congress. White IIovse, the Departments, Mount Vernon, 

Arlington, and All Other Points of Interest. 




BRONZE STATUE OF LIBERTY ON DOME OF CAPITOL. 



Illustrations from Recent Photographs, together with Maps, 
Plans, etc., Prepared Especially for the Work. 



Chicago and New York: 

RAND, McNALLY & COMPANY, Pl^BLISHERS, 

1904. 



F \'\^. 




Miliums 







Copyright, 19()0, hy Kand, McNai.i.y it Company. 
Copyright, 1901, hy Kand, McNali.y it Company. 
CoPYKiGUT, 1902, iJY Hand, MoNally & Company. 
Copyright, 1903, by Kand, MoNally & Company. 
COPVRIGBT, 1904, BY IUND. McNaLLY & COMPANY. 



n-/r^^ 



THE CAPITC 







EAST FRONT. 



LEEICA 



CATHOUCUN.VERSimff 

CONTENTS. 



CHATTER PAGE 

I. An Ixtrodtjctiox to Washington , 11 

Railways. Cabs. Streets. Etc 11 

District Goverument . . 14 

II. A Tour of the Capitol 15 

TIT. The Library of Congress 4-5 

IV. On Capitol Hill 79 

V. From the Capitol to the White Hovse 85 

VI At the Executive Mansion 91 

VII. The ExECUTn-E Departments 99 

VIII. From the Monument to the Museums . . 115 

The Washington Monument 115 

Some Scientific Departments 119 

IX. The Corcoran and other Art Galleries . . . , 129 

X. Churches. Clubs. The-vte^is. Etc 135 

XI. Official Etiquette at the Capital 139 

XII. Streets, Squares, and Residences 143 

XIII. Excursions about Washington 159 

1. To Mount Vernon 159 

2. To Arlington National Cemetery and Fort Meyer . 172 

3. To the Sokiiers" Home. Rock Creek Church. Fort Sttvtos. Battle 

and National Cemeteries. Catholic University, and Brvx)kland . 180 

4 To the "Zoo." Rock Cret-k National Park, and Chevy Chase . 1S5 

5. Georgetown and its Vicinity 1S6 

6. Georgetown to Tennallytowni and Glen Echo ISS 

7. Georgetown to Glen Echo, Cabin John, and Great Falls . . . 1S9 

S. To Bladensburg and Kendall Green 191 

9. To Benning and Chesapejike Beach 191 



10 



AN INTRODUCTION TO WASHINGTON. 




EQUESTRIAN STATUE OF WASHINGTON 

IN WASHINGTON CIRCLE. 

By Clark Mills. 



Washiugton has two railway stations 
and one steamboat landing. The railway 
stations are : 

(1) Baltimore & Ohio Station, at 
New Jersey Avenue and C Street, one 
block north of the Capitol 

grounds. Into this old, Railway 

ante bellum station of the Stations. 

oldest working railroad in 
the' country come the Royal Blue and all 
other trains of the Baltimore & Ohio sys- 
tem and its connections from the North 
and West, and from the South by way of 
the Shenandoah Valley. Street cars may 
be taken here for any part of the city, and 
baggage wagons and electric cabs will be 
found in waiting. It has no restaurant, 
but several exist near by. 

(2) Pennsylvania Railroad Station, at 
Sixth and B streets. This is half a block 
from Pennsylvania Avenue, midway be- 
tween the Capitol and the Treasury, and 
convenient to street cars. Carriages and 
express wagons arc always in waiting 
This is the station for all trains of the 



Pennsylvania (Baltimore & Potomac) and Northern Central railroads, and their con- 
nections north and east, including the through trains to and from Boston ; and for 
trains to and from the South over the Southern Railway, Atlantic Coast Line, Chesa- 
peake & Ohio Railroad, and Seaboard Air Line. There is an excellent restaurant in the 
building, which, though rather snjall, is convenient. 

The Steamboat Landing for all Potomac boats and ferries — Norfolk, Mount Vernon, 
Alexandria, etc., is at the foot of Seventh Street. Steamboat leaves 
for Fort Monroe and Norfolk every evening at 6.30. Steamboats. 

The street-car system of the city is extensive and convenient. All 
the principal lines are operated on the underground electric trolley system, and all are 
controlled by either the Capital Traction Company or the Metropolitan Railroad Com- 
pany. Each transfers from line to line of its own system. 

The cars on Pennsylvania Avenue are green or yellow. The green cars run between 
Georgetown and the Navy Yard ; the yellow cars between Mount Pleasant, at the 
northern extremity of Fourteenth Street, and the Baltimore & Ohio Rail- 
road Station. These lines separate at the Peace Monument, and at New Street Cars. 
York Avenue, and both transfer with each other, and with the Seventh 
Street line. The Seventh Street line runs from the Arsenal and steamboat wharvps 

11 



12 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 

north to the boundary, where it connects with the Brightwood line for the Soldiers' 
Home, Brightwood, and other suburbs to Fort Green, eight miles from the Treasury. A 
line along U Street connects the Seventh and Fourteenth street lines, and extends to the 
boundary at Rock Creek, where it connects with the cars for Zoological Park and 
Chevy Chase. The Chevy Chase cars also come directly to the Treasury during the 
busy hours of the day. The above lines are operated by the Capital Traction Company 
and exchange free transfers. 

The Metropolitan lines extend from Georgetown along M Street, Connecticut Avenue, 
H, Fourteenth, and F streets to Capitol Hill, where they skirt the western and northern 
side of the Capitol grounds, pass the Library of Congress, and run eastward to the edge 
of the city. This is popularly known as the F Street line. At George- 
Suburban town it connects with a line up the Potomac Valley to Cabin John Bridge 

Lines. and Great Falls, and also one to Tennallytown and Rockville. This com- 

pany also controls the Connecticut Avenue line to Mount Pleasant ; the 
Eleventh Street, Ninth Street, and Brightwood lines ; the Belt line ; two lines pene- 
trating the Northeastern quarter, one of which extends to Beuning, and connects with 
a steam railroad for Chesapeake Beach ; and the two suburban lines northeastward, one 
reaching Brookland, and the other Hyattsville, Bladensburg, Riverdale, and other vil- 
lages to Berwyn, Md. All of these exchange transfers, and all center at the Treasury, 
but the various divisions are not separated by the colors of the cars. 

Fare everywhere within the city, 5 cents ; and six tickets are sold for 25 cents, good 
upon all lines. A line of herdics also runs upon Sixteenth Street, which exchanges 
transfers with the F Street line at the corner of H and Sixteenth Street. 

Hacks and cabs are numerous, and not expensive, and the authorized rates are as 
follows : 

One-Horse Vehicles. By the trip — Day rates, between 5 A. m. and 12.30 a. m., 
each passenger, fifteen squares or less, 25 cents ; each additional five squares or parts 
of squares, 10 cents. Midnight rates, between 12.30 A. m. and 5 a. m., 
Public each passenger, fifteen squares or less, 40 cents ; each additional five 

Carriages. squares or parts of squares, 15 cents. By the hour — Day rates, one 
or two passengers, first hour, 75 cents ; each additional quarter hour 
or part thereof, 20 cents; three or four passengers, first hour, $1; each additional 
quarter hour or part thereof, 25 cents. Midnight rates about double these. 

Two- Horse Vehicles. About double the rates for one-horse cabs. The law says that 
when vehicles are not engaged by the hour, trip rates shall be charged ; but when 
charges for consecutive trips exceed rates per hour, charges shall be by the hour. 

Both the Pennsylvania and the Baltimore & Ohio railway companies maintain a system 
of cabs intended especially for persons going to and from their stations, but available 
for general services. Those of the Baltimore & Ohio Company are electric automobiles. 
Bicycles are extremely numerous in Washington, and many places exist 
Bicycles. where they can be rented. The law requires them to keep off the side- 

walks, avoid excessive speed, and carry lamps at night. The favorite 
out-of-town run is up the Potomac. 

An alphabetical list of hotels will be found at the end of this book. 

Restaurants have multiplied and improved in Washington during the last ten years. 
The most famous restaurants in Washington, since the disappearance of Wormley's 
and Welcker's, are the Chamberlin and Harvey's. The former occupies 
Hotels and a double house at I and Fifteenth streets, and serves game and costly 
Restaurants, delicacies beloved of clubmen, prepared in the Southern style which has 
made its terrapin, canvasbacks, etc., celebrated. The other, Harvey's, 
at Pennsylvania Avenue and Eleventh Street, is noted for its oysters. These and the 



INTRODUCTIOlSr TO WASHINGTON. 13 

Shoreham. Gordon, and Raleigh are favorite resorts for after -the -theater suppers. 
)n F, G. Ninth, Seventh, and other streets in the region near the public buildings, are 
a large number of dairies, bakeries, ice-cream saloons, and eating-places of every grade, 
resorted to by government clerks, men and women, high and low. Dining-rooms are 
numerous on the avenue and in Georgetown. The restaurants in the Capitol are good, 
especially that in the Senate basement, and there are good ones at the Library of Con- 
gress and National Museum. 

Professional boarding-houses, often with the names and pretensions of " hotels," are 
plentiful, particularly in the region north of the avenue, between Tenth and Fourteenth 
streets, and in the neighborhood of the Pension Building; and this 
quarter also abounds in private houses renting rooms and perhaps fur- Boarding^- 
nishing board. All these are indicated by small signs displayed at the hOUses. 

door or in a window. The best plan for a person desiring such quarters 
is to walk about, observe these signs, and examine what suits him. A man and his 
wife can get very comfortable lodging and board for $60 to $75 a month. 

The shops of Washington are extensive and fine. The principal shopping streets are 
Pennsylvania Avenvie, Seventh, Ninth, F, and G streets, between Ninth 
and Fourteenth streets, but there are local groups of stores, especially for Shops. 

provisions, on Capitol Hill, in Georgetown, and along H Street, N. E. 

The District of Columbia had a peculiar origin, and its constitution and history 
account for many of the peculiarities of the present capital city. The first Congress 
of the United States had the task of establishing a Federal capital, under 
a plan for taking in .some small tract of land and exercising exclusive Origin of 

jurisdiction over it. In 1790 a bill was pas.sed, after many postpone- District 

ments and much hot discussion, accepting from the States of Maryland of Columbia. 
and Virginia a tract ten miles square on the Potomac, to be called the 
District of Columbia; but in 1846 Virginia's portion — some thirty-six square miles 
south of the river — was ceded back to her. Three Commissioners were appointed 
by the President (Washington) to purchase the land from its owners, and to provide 
suitable buildings for the Government. Major Pierre Charles L'Enfant, a French 
engineer who had fought in the Revolution, was appointed to lay out the city, but 
proved so irreconcilable to discipline that it became necessary to dismiss him, though 
his plan was essentially followed by Ellicott his assistant, who succeeded him. 
■O The avenues were named after the States, and in a certain order. By reason of its 
midway and infiuential position, that had already given it the excellent soubricpiet 
"Keystone State," Pennsylvania was entitled to the name of the great 
central avenue. The avenues south of this received the names of the Arrangement 
Southern States ; the avenues which crossed Pennsylvania were named of Streets, 
after the Middle States, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, and New York, 
while the New England States were left to designate the avenues then regarded as 
remote possibilities among the swamps and hills of the northwest. The curious way 
in which the capital has developed along the lines of the last-named group is typical 
of the growth and change in the balance of the whole country since L'Eufant's day. 

The rectilinear streets run exactly north and south and east and west. The streets 
running east and west are known by the letters of the alphabet, so we have North A 
and South A, North B and South B, and so on ; at right angles to the alphabetical 
streets are the streets bearing numbers, and beginning their house enumeration at 
a line running due north and south through the Capitol. This divides the city into 
four quarters, Northwest, Nortlieast, Southeast, and Southwest, each with its own set 
of numbers for the houses, arranged upon the decimal system — that is, 100 numbers 
for each block. This is repeated in a direction away from each of the Capitol streets; 



14 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHr^GTOy. 

all addresses, therefore, should bear the added designation of the quarter by its 
initials — X. "SV.. X. E.. S. E.. or S. W. In this book, as nearly everything mentioned 
is in the Xorthwest Quarter, these initials are uniformly omitted for that quarter, 
but are always supplied elsewhere. 

In 1800 the seat of Government was established in Washington City, which was 
first so called, it is said, by the Commissioners in 1791. The General himself, who 
was its most active promoter, always spoke of it as the Federal City. 
Early The town was all in the woods, and had only 3.00«) inhabitants, mostly 

HistOP. living in the northwestern quarter, or on Capitol Hill. Nevertheless 

it grew until 1814. when, after a weak resistance at Bladensburg, it was 
captured by the British, who set fire to the public buildings and some private resi- 
dences, intending to destroy the town altogether. A hurricane of wind and rain 
came that night to complete the destruction in some respects, but this extinguished 
the conflagration. Xext day the British left in a panic of causeless fear, excepting 
a large contingent of deserters, who took this opportunity to stay behind and 'grow 
up with the country." The city was immediately rebuilt, and in 1860 it contained 
61,000 inhabitants. When the Civil War was over the city found itself with an 
enlarged population and a vastly greater importance. 

The population of the District of Columbia, including the city, is now about 300. 0<X), 
and it is steadily growing. The Federal Government, in lieu of assessed taxes, contributes 
one-half of all the District's expenses, and practically has done much 
PopulatiOD. more than that in the form of public grounds, boulevards, and reserva- 
tions free to ihe public, and maintained at the public expense. 
The relations of the District and Federal City to the Union are very peculiar. After 
several experiments in municipal government. Congress created a form of administra- 
tion of District and city affairs, which consists simply of two civilian 
District Commissioners appointed by the President, and confirmed by the S<?nate, 

Government, and one army engineer officer detailed by the Secretary of War. the three 
constituting a Board of Commissioners for three years. They are 
empowered by Congress to make, and change at will, building, health, and police regu- 
lations. They also appoint all subordinate officials and clerks. 

They are required to make and submit to the Secretarj' of the Treasurj- snnujil esti- 
mates for all the expenditures within the District for the ensuing year. One-half of the 
amount to be raised is assessed upon the District, the other half is appropriated by 
Congress. The headquarters of District affairs is in the District Building on Louisiana 
Avenue, near City Hall. The District courts, except the Police Court, are in the City 
Hall, an old building in Judiciary Square, facing Four-and-a-half Street, where the 
Marshal and certain other functionaries also have offices. It was in this edifice, built for 
the courthouse, that Garfield's assassin. Guiteau. was tried, and other noted cases have 
been heard there. In front of it, upon a marble column, stands a monument of Lincoln 
carved by Lot Flannery, who has been described as a " self- taught sculptor." 



II. 



A TOUR OF THE CAPITOL. 




WEST VIEW OF CAPITOL. 

The great advantage that Washington enjoys in having been intelHgently platted 
before any building of consequence had begun, is signally shown in the choice of this 
central and sightly hilltop as the position of the Capitol. The grounds 
in front of the building were made perfectly level, but in the rear they Capitol 

sloped downward some eighty feet to the Potomac flats, which are over- GrOUndS. 

flowed occasionally even yet. The present arrangement of the park liates 
from 1874, when it was enlarged to its present enclosure of forty-six acres, and beautified 
by the late Frederick Law Olmstead. The splendid marble terraces on the western side 
of the building, and their ornamental approaches, together costing $200,000, are a part 
of the general scheme of outdoor decoration, which each year becomes more admirable 
as the trees and shrul)beries mature. A pretty feature of the northwestern part of the 
jjark is the ivy-covered rest-house, one window of which looks into a grotto. The low 
stone towers, becoming vine-covered, in the western parts of the park, are the orifices 
through which is drawn the supply of fresh air for the ventilation of the Senate cham- 
ber and hall of Representatives. Immediately in front (east) of the Capitol is the 

15 



16 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 

Plaza, where vast crowds assemble to witness presidential inaugurations, and here, 
facing the main entrance, stands Greenough's statue of Washington, sitting in a curule 
chair as the first great tribune of the American people. 

A statue of Washington was ordered by Congress in 1832, to signalize the centennial 
anniversary of his birth. The commission was given to Horatio Greenough, who was 
then residing in Florence, Italy, the only restriction upon the execution 
Greenough's of his plan being that it should not be equestrian, and that the counte- 
Statue of nance should conform to that of the Houdon statue. His price of $20,- 

Washington. OOO was accepted, and he devoted the principal part of his time for eight 
years to its completion. The intention was to place this statue in the 
center of the rotunda, over the mausoleum provided for Washington in the undercroft ; 
but by the time it was completed and had been brought here in a special ship (1841), the 
idea of placing the bones of Washington in the Capitol had been abandoned, and it was 
decided to leave it out-of-doors. This statue, which is covered from the weather in 
winter and invisible, is of Carrara marble, and represents, in heroic size, the Father 
of his Country in a Roman toga, which has slipped from his shoulders, lifting a hand of 
warning and advice to the nation. As a work of art, it has caused great controversy 
among people of taste. It is probable that we know too much of Washington as a man 
— he is too near to us — to make an attempt at classic idealization of him seem natural or 
pleasing. 

The act of Congress of July 9, 1790, which established the District of Columbia as 
the National Capital, provided that prior to the first Monday of December, 1800, the 
Commissioners should have finished a suitable building for the sessions of Congress. 
When the Commissioners had accepted L'Enfant's plan for the city, they found this hill 
selected by him as the site of the national legislative halls, and as soon as 
Beginnings the Commissioners could accumulate money enough from their land sales 
of the to make a respectable showing, they began the erection of the two build- 

Capitol. ings first needed — the Executive Mansion and the Congressional halls 

and offices, which at Jefferson's suggestion, it is said, came to be called 
the Capitol. One of the interesting features of early life at the seat of Government is 
the degree to which formal classics ruled in taste. The corner-stones were laid with 
Masonic rites and all possible parade, George Washington officiating. October 13, 1792, 
was the date at the President's House ; but the corner-stone of the Capitol (marked in 
1895 by a bronze plate) was not laid until September 18, 1793. Materials were slow and 
uncertain, and had not Virginia and Maryland advanced the money Congress refused, 
the work would have stopped altogether. The town was yet only a muddy village in 
the woods ; and the Commissioners had to fight opposition and obstacles at every step. 
Nevertheless an edifice, such as it was, was ready for the Government, which came from 
Philadelphia, bag and baggage, in a single sloop, and took possession during Octo- 
ber, 1800. 

Whose was the plan has excited much controversy, for several minds contributed. 
The original sketch came from Doctor Thornton, a native of the West Indies, and then 
in charge of the Patent Office, and so pleased Washington that it was 
Plan and adopted. The plans were redrawn by Stephen H. Hallett, who was a 

Architects. student of Nash, the most famous house-builder of his time. Hoban, 
the architect of the White House, and others made suggestions, so that 
Thornton's plan was much modified ; still less did it foreshadow the Capitol of to-day. 

Only the north wing, or that part of the main building containing the present 
Supreme Court rooms, was finished in 1800, the opposite wing not being ready until 
1811. C?> A wooden passageway connected them across the space now occupied by the 
basement of the rotunda. The expenditure up to that time had been $787,000. When, 



A TOUR OF THE CAPITOL. 



17 




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18 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHESTGTON. 

in 1S14. the British captured the city, they entered "tiie legislative haHs, held a mock 
session of Congress, and soon the building was in flames. In 1815 Congress authorized 
the Secretary of the Treasury to borrow foCK.i.(>Xt to begin repairs (.for the walls stood), 
and in iSlS undertook the erection of the central part. B. H. Latrobe took the archi- 
tectural sui)erintendence of the restoration, while the new central structure was planned 
and supervised by Charles Bulfinch. The original building was completed in 1827. at a 
cost, including the grading of the grounds, repairs, etc.. of not quite $2,500,000. A fire 
in the library compelled the rebuilding of the western front in 1851. when additions were 

made, and the same year the comer-stones of the extensions, now known 
Cost. as the House and Senate wings, were laid : but these were not completed 

until 1859 (at a cost of nearly 19.000. 000). Meanwhile the low wooden 
dome which had temporarily covered the rotunda was removed in 1856, and the erection 
of the present iron dome was begun. 

Add to the sums above noted a million doUsBTS for additional space for the grounds 
and the obtaining of water, two mUlions for improvements of the grounds and terraces, 
another million for repairs and improvements on the building itself, and various other 
items, and the cost of the Capitol approaches $15,000,000. 

The original and proper front of the Capitol is the eastern, and the city has grown 
behind rather than before the statehouse of the nation, as it was expected to do. 
This contingency has been met by improvements at the rear of the building to 
increase the stateliness of its approaches, so that the Capitol now has two faces, different 
but substantially equal in merit. The western front, although on the side from which 
most visitors approach, requires a long, toilsome climbing of terraces and steps: whereas 
the street cars carry passengers to the level of the basement on the south side, and on 
the north side almost to the very entrance. It is therefore easier, as well as more proper, 
to begin one"s survey of the great structure at the architects original front door. 

This eastern front is imposing from every standpoint. One of the most satis- 
factory views of it is that obtained from the little car-passengers' shelter on the north 

side of the grounds. The massive and classic proportions of the Senate 
East Front, ^ing are near at hand, and its ornamental front cuts deeply into the 

dome, whose supports sink away in grand perspective to the Representa- 
tive wing, while the majestic dome itself rises tier upon tier of columns and circling 
architraves to its convergent roof and statue-crowned tholus. There is a wonderful 
feeling of breadth and grandeur, yet of buoyancy, in this oblique aspect of the noble 
pile — all sunny white, save the color in the folds of the flag. 

The Capitol is 751 feet long. 350 feet in greatest width, and covers nearly four acres 
of ground, with 153,112 square feet of floor space. It is 1-55 feet high to the cornices of 

the main roof, or 2^ feet to the crest of the Liberty statue. The dome 
St^ k and is of iron, weighs nearly nine million pounds, and was completed in 1865, 

Dimensions, replacing the earlier wooden dome. The architecture is modified Corin- 
thian upon a rustic base, plus a dome, and the material of the older 
central part is Virginia (Aquia Creek) sandstone, painted white, but the newer wings 
are built of Massachusetts marble. 

In front of the building stretches a broad paved plaza, and three flights of broad 
steps lead up the central entrance and to each wing, lending a very effective appearance 

of breadth and solidity to the whole mass, whose walls are largely hidden 
Crawford's by the rows of monolithic, fluted columns of ilaryland marble that 
Group. sustain the three broad porticos. The porticos of the wings have each 

twentv-two columns, and ten more columns on each of their northern 
and western fronts. The pediment of the southern wing, which contains the House of 
Representatives, has no statuary, but the facade of the northern wing, where the Senate 



A TOUR OF THE CAPITOL. 



19 



sits, is doubly adorned. The tj^mpanum is filled with an immense group by Thomas 
Crawford, emblematic of American progress, which has displaced the Indians with the 
arts of agriculture, commerce, and industrial production, supported by the sword. This 

is considered the chef-d'oeuvre of this 




talented American sculptor and will repay 
careful study. Crawford was paid $17, 000 
for the models, and the cutting of the 
marble (from Lee, Mass.) by several 
skilled Italian carvers cost $26,000 more. 
The grand central portico, which dates 
from 1825, is 160 feet wide, and has 
twenty -four columns carrying a pediment 
of 80 feet span filled with an allegorical 
group cut in sandstone, 
after a design by John Central 

Quincy Adams when Sec- Portico. 

retary of State. It was 
executed by Luigi Persico, a prominent 
Roman sculptor, who had many commis- 
sions here. This group represents the 
" Genius of America." America, armed, 
is resting her shield upon an altar, while 
an eagle perches at her feet. She seems 
listening to Hope, and points in response 
to Justice, who holds the Constitution, 
inscribed September 17, 1787 (the date of 
its adoption), and her scales. From the 
level of the portico extend two great 
buttresses, each adorned with pieces of 
colossal statuarj^ in marble. That upon 
the south side represents Columbus, and 
is entitled "The Discovery of America." 
The sculptor was Persico (1846), who 
exactly copied the armor from a suit worn by Columbus, yet preserved in Genoa. The 
opposite group (north) is by Greenough, and represents an incident of frontier life as 
typical of "Civilization, or the First Settlement of America." Each of these groups 
cost $24,000. 

The inauguration of Presidents of the United States has taken place upon this portico 
since the time of Jackson. A draped staging is extended outward to accommodate the 
high officials who form a part of the ceremonial, and here the oath of office is adminis- 
tered by the Chief Justice in full view of a multitude of citizens. 

In the center of this portico is the great Rogers bronze door which opens directly into 
the rotunda under the dome, and is among the most interesting objects at the Capitol. 
It was designed in Rome in 1858 by Randolph Rogers, who received S8,000 for his 
plaster models, and was cast in Munich, in 1861, by F. Von Mliller, who was paid 
$17,000 in gold, then at a high premium. It is nineteen feet high and weighs ten tons. 

The leaves or valves of the door, which is double, stand in superbly 
enriched casing, and when opened fold back into fitting jambs. Each Rogers 

leaf is divided into eight panels, in addition to the transom panel under BfOnze DoOf. 
the arch. Each panel contains a complete scene in alto-relievo. The 
scenes portrayed constitute the principal events in the life of Columbus and the 



GREENOUGH'S "THE RESCUE." 
Central Portico. 



20 



PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 



discovery of America, with an ornate enrichment of emblematic designs. On the key of 
the arch of the casing is the head of Columbus, and on the sides of the casing are four 
typical statuettes in niches arranged chronologically — Asia, Africa, Europe, and America. 
The remainder of the casing is embellished with a running border of ancient armor, 
banners, and heraldic designs, and at the bottom, on either side, an anchor, all in basso- 
relievo, and emblematic of navigation and conquest. On the frame of each leaf of the 
door, set in niches, are sixteen statuettes of the patrons and contemporaries of Colum- 
bus, given in the order of their association with the announcement and execution of his 
theory of geographical exploration. The first eight figures are associated in pairs when 
the doors are closed, and divided when opened. All are labeled. The sixteenth is 
Pizarro, conqueror of Peru. The panels illustrate the career of Columbus, the third 

scene being his audience at the court of 
Ferdinand and Isabella. Between the 
panels are a series of heads, representing 
the historians of the voyages of Colum- 
bus, prominent among whom are Irving 
and Prescott. 

Niches on each side of this imposing 
entrance hold statues of Mars or War (on 
the right — a noble figure of a Roman 
warrior) and of Ceres or Peace (on the 
left — a female figure with flowers and 
fruits) modeled by Persico and costing 
together $13,000; while above the door is 
a bust of Washington, crowned by Fame 
and Peace, which was sculptured by 
A. Capellauo in 1837. Capellano is not 
known bej'ond his carvings here. 

Passing through the bronze doors, 
we enter the Rotunda. It occupies 
nearly the whole width of the center of 
the building, and is unbroken to the 
summit of the dome. 

It is 96 feet in diameter and 180 
feet high to the canopy. Its center is 
the center of the Capitol. The pavement 
is of sandstone, and the walls are plas- 
tered and broken into panels by engaged pillars, above which there is a broad entabla- 
ture. This is surmounted by a gallery (which has as good a "whispering" 
Rotunda. echo as that of St. Paul's), formed of Corinthian columns connected by a 

balustrade; and this gallery and the Rotunda are lighted by a belt of large 
windows, outside of which is the circular row of columns that form the external visible 
supports of the dome. From the entablature carried upon these pillars springs the con- 
cavity of the dome, arching inward to an opening 50 feet in diameter, at the base of the 
lantern, called the eye. This opi'ning is encircled by a gallery and canopied by a painted 
ceiling, consisting of a circular piece of iron, covered with stucco, 65 feet wide. 

In the vast and somewhat obscure space of this immense apartment only a colossus, like 
the Statue of Liberty in New York harbor, would seem a fitting ornament. It was pro- 
posed to cut away the floor in the center and erect Greeuough's figure of Wasliington, 
now on the plaza, upon an elevated pedestal approached from the crypt ; but this was 




THE ROGERS BRONZE 



A TOTJE OF THE CAPITOL. 



21 



not done, and all attempts at decoration have been confined to the walls, except the 
placing of a few statues. 

Four dooi's open out of the Rotunda, and over each is a marble panel carved in high 
relief. That over the eastern, or main, entrance and exit is by Enrico Causici of Verona, a 
pupil of Canova, and represents the " Landing of the Pilgrims"; that over 
the northern door is by N. Gevelot, a Frenchman, and pictures William RotUnda 

Penu making a treaty with the Delaware Indians ; over the southern door Doors. 

is another group by Causici — "Daniel Boone in Conflict with the Indians" — 
in which Boone's face was copied from a portrait by Hardinge, and over the western door 




THE LANDING OF COLUMBUS AT SAN SALVADOR 



John Vanderlyn, Rotunda. 



is Capellano's "Pocahontas Saving the Life of John Smith." These sculptors were all 
men who worked here about 1837, and each was paid $3,500. 

Each of the lower wall spaces carries one of the big historical paintings (18 by 12 feet), 
familiar to everybody through innumerable reproductions — even upon the paper cur- 
rency and Columbian postage stamps of the Government. All are by 
American artists. Each has attached to it a label and key -picture, RotUnda 

giving the names and positions of all the persons represented by carefully Wall 

drawn portraits in its groups. They fall into two classes —" Early Paintings. 
historical" and "Revolutionary." The former are to a great degree 
imaginative, particularly the DeSoto ; but the latter are accurately true to the times and 
scenes they purport to represent. In the first class is the "Landing of Columbus at San 
Salvador," in 1493, painted in 1839 by Vanderlyn, who was paid |10,000 for it in 1843. 
The "Discovery of the Mississippi" by De Soto, in 1541, was painted by Wm. II. 
Powell in 1850, and the price was $12,000. The "Baptism of Pocahontas" at James- 
town, in 1618, is nearer the truth, since the artist, J. G. Chapman, did his best to 
represent the portraits and costumes of Rolfe, Sir Thomas Dale, and other Virginian 
colonists and Indian chieftains, who may be supposed present at the ceremony. Its cost 
was $10,000, and its date is 1836. The last of this colonial series, by Professor Weir, 



22 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 

date 1840, price $10,000, is a picture of the farewell service on board the unseaworthy 
Speedwell, before it sailed from Delft Haven (the port of Leyden. Holland) for America, 
bearing the first colony of Pilgrims, who were finally landed on Plymouth Rock by the 
Mayflower. 

The four Revolutionary paintings are by Col. John Trumbull (1706-1843), who was 
son of Gov. Jonathan Trumbull of Connecticut. For several months the young officer 
was aid and military .secretary to Wasbington. After the war he studied in Europe, 
and conceived an ambition to produce this series of national paintings, in which each 
face is drawn from life, so far as sittings could be obtained, while others are copied from 
approved portraits. This faithfulness of detail interferes with the best artistic results, 
giving a certain hardness to all parts, but increa.ses the historical value of the composi- 
tions. They were painted between 1817 and 1824, and cost the nation |32.000 — a large 
sum in those da3's. Beside each picture is a "key," by consulting which the names of 
most of the persons may be learned. 

The first is "Signing the Declaration of Independence" in the Old Hall in Phila- 
delphia in 1770. the arrangement of the group of figures having been made as Jefferson, 
Franklin, and others of the fathers described it to him. The presiding officer is John 
Hancock. The "Surrender of Burgoyne at Saratoga" to General Gates is from 
sketches made by Trumbull on the spot, 0<;tol)er 17, 1777. The artist was also present 
at the " Surrender of Lord Gornwallis at Yorktown," portrayed in the third painting, 
where the British are marching between the lines of the American and French allies. 
The fourth of the series is "The Resignation of Washington" as commander-in-chief 
of the American armies, which took place, closely as depicted, at Annapolis on Decem- 
ber 23, 1783, where Congress was then in session in the old Maryland State House. 
The commission he then surrendered is preserved in the Department of State, and the 
coat worn by Washington upon this occasion may be seen at the National Mu.seum. 

Above each of the eight paintings are panels with arabesque designs by Causici and 
Capellano, containing medallion heads of the four great pioneers of American discov- 
ery — Columbus, Raleigh, Cabot, and La Salle. They were done in 1827, and cost 
$9,500. 

The frieze, ten feet wide, just beneath the gallery, was left blank for many years, 
1)1 It in 1878 the talented Brumidi began a series of paintings intended to encircle the 
room (300 feet) and to carry out the historical theme to which all the 
Rotunda rotunda decorations conform. They are chiaro.scuro drawings in distem- 

Frkzc. per — that is, expressed merely in light and shade and painted with a 

glutinous medium upon the plaster. A procession of somewhat conven- 
tional figures in strrmg relief, imitating the alto-relievos which the architect had 
intended to place here, beginning over the western door and progressing to the right 
(nf>rth) and so on around, marches through the cardinal scenes in American progress. 
Brumidi had completed le.ss than half of the circle when he died, in 1880. The work 
was then continued by his Italian assistant, Costagini, but is not yet completed. The 
estimated expense of so decorating this frieze was $10,000 — the favorite congressional 
figure for ai't pieces — and it has oft<!n been spent to worse advantage than here. 

On the canopy of the dome is Brumidi's* masterpiece, "The Apotheosis of Wash- 

* Constantino Uruniidi was born in Rome in ISO."), stiiilli;(l art, and became a member of the .\cad- 
emy at tJiirteen. He jiainted frescoeH in several Uoman jjalaces, and worktsd in the Vatican for tliree 
years utjder (ire^ory XVI. 'I'lie tradition is tliat he l)i'<;ame involved in tlie European revolution of 
IHIH, aii<l was thrown into prison, wlienee he was fre<'d, on account of his rejiutalion, by tlie influence 
of I'ius IX. but was banished from Italy. At aii.y rate, after the French t<jok possession of Home he 
came tf) America, where lie iv-maliied until IS.") I, and then went to Mexico to do frescoes. Returning 
to Washington, hi; was employed to takt; charge of Ihe nnuvil decorations of the Capitol. He began 
with the room of the. House Committee on Agriculture, and these pictures are said to have been the 
first frecoes in the Unit<;d States. Ue atso did frescoes for St. Stephen's Church in New York and for 



A TOUR OF THE CAPITOL. 



23 




DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.- Painting by Wm. H. Powell. Rotunda. 




SIGNING THE DECLARATION OF INDEPENDENCE.- Painting by John Trumbull, Rotunda. 



the Philadelphia Cathedral. His death, in IS'^O, followed an injury received upon the scaffold while 
paintiiia: the frieze of the rotunda. Ilis work is .strong in drawing", excellent in idea, and brilliant in 
color, and is ill ihestyk^ (pf ihi' hrst Italian incthuds. Wlicnever lie represented a stated event or included 
a portrait be took great pains that it should be truthful. 



24 



PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTOlSr. 



ington." Glasses will help one to study it from the floor, but it should be examined 
from the galkny to be appreciated. The artist worked upon it several years, and the 
cost was nearly $50,000, of which Brumidi received $39,500, and an exceedingly skillful 
and beautifying result was obtained. 

The central figure is Washington, with Freedom and Victory at his right and left, 

and around them are female figures to represent the original States of the Union. The 

border of the canopy contains six groups of emblematic figures, repre- 

Brumidi's senting the Fall of Tyranny, Agriculture, Mechanics, Commerce, the 

Canopy. Marine, and the Arts and Sciences. The painting is glowing with color, 

and every portion of it is finished in a very careful manner. 

The ascent of the dome may be made by a stairway (376 steps) opening from the 
passage to the Senate wing, and it is possible to climb even to the foot of the statue. 
Visitors are ordinarily contented, however, to stop at the great galleries, exterior and 
interior, which encircle the base of the dome. The view thence is an exceedingly 
wide and interesting one, but differs little from that obtained from the summit of the 



Washington Monument, which 
few persons, therefore, climb 

"The huge dome," says 
beauty far above the 
crown 

The Dome, is of 

nearly 
sheets of iron, securely 
on iron ribs, and by 
struction the changes 
contraction and expan 
folding and unfolding of 
from designs of Thomas 
and cost $1,250,000. Eight 
struction, so carefully was the 
ly protected from the 
of white paint, renewed 
last for centuries. Its 




THE APOTHEOSIS OF WASHINGTON. 
Painting by Constantino Brumidi. 



can be reached by an elevator ; 
these tedious stairways. 
Evans, "rising in its classic 
main building, is a fitting 
to the noble edifice. It 
cast iron and weighs 
4,000 tons. Large 
bolted together, rest 
the plan used in its con- 
of temperature make its 
sion merely 'like the 
the lily.' It was built 
U. Walter of Philadelphia, 
years were required in its con- 
work done, and as it is thorough- 
weather by thick coats 
yearly, it is likely to 
base consists of a peri- 



style of thirty-six fluted columns surmounted by an entablature and a balustrade. Then 
comes an attic story, and above this the dome proper. At the top is a gallery, sur- 
rounded by a balustrade, from which may be obtained a magnificent view of the city 
and its environs. Rising from the gallery is the 'lantern,' fifteen feet in diameter and 
fifty feet high, surrounded by a peristyle. Over the lantern is a globe, and standing on 
the globe is the bronze statue of Liberty, designed by Thomas Crawford, and cast at 
Bladensburg, Md. It is nineteen feet six inches high, weighs seven and one-half tons, 
and cost more than |24,000. It was placed in position December 2, 1863, amid the 
salutes from guns in Washington and the surrounding forts, and the cheers of the thou- 
sands of soldiers." 

This statue was lifted to its position in sections, afterward bolted together. The 
original plaster model is in the National Museum. 

Statues now adorn the rotunda, as follows : Vinnie Ream Hoxie's much- 
Kotunda discussed statue of Lincoln, for which Congress paid $15,000 in 1870, 

Statues. after a long debate, in which Senator Sumner made an illuminating speech 

on the application of art to the Capitol. The statue of Alexander Ham- 
ilton ( 1756-1804) is l)y Stone, is dated 1868, and cost $10,000. Another statue by Stone 
is that of the Oregon Senator and Union soldier. Col. Edward D. Baker, who was 



A TOUR OF THE CAPITOL. 25 

killed at Ball's Bluff in 1861. The statue of Jefferson here has the following history, 
according to Ben: Perley Poore : "A spirited bronze statue of Jefferson by his admirer, 
the French sculptor, David d'Angers, was presented to Congress by Lieut. Uriah P. 
Levy, but Congress declined to accept it, and denied it a position in the Capitol. It was 
then reverentially taken in charge by two naturalized citizens, stanch Democrats, 
and placed on a small pedestal in front of the White House. One of these worshipers of 
Jefferson was the public gardener, Jimmy Maher ; the other was John Foy, keeper of 
the restaurant in the basement of the Capitol, and famous for his witty sayings." The 
fifth is a statue of Gen. U. S. Grant by Franklin Simmons, the gift of the Grand Army 
to the United States. 

The eastern door of the rotunda opens upon the grand portico of the "eastern front. 
The carvings above it have been described. 

The western door leads to a rear stairway descending a narrow hall to the rear 
entrance of the Capitol and Pennsylvania Avenue ; also to a balcony which gives an 
exceedingly interesting view toward the river, the Treasury, and northwestward. 

The northern door leads to the Supreme Court and onward to the Senate Chamber. 

The southern door admits to Statuary Hall and the House of Representatives, in the 
southern extension, to which attention may now be directed, as the first step in a general 
survey of the Capitol. 

Passing through the southern door and a circular vestibule, we emerge into a semi- 
circular hall ninety-five feet in greatest width, whose ceiling is a half -dome sixty feet 
high, beneath which is a spacious gallery filled with the Library of the 
House of Representatives. This was the Hall of Representatives of the Ong:inal 

original Capitol, and as first built it was an oblong rectangular room. In Hall of 

rebuilding it, after the fire of 1814, Latrobe converted it into a semicir- Representa- 
cular room, taking as his model, tradition says, an ancient theater in tives. 

Greece ; and doubtless it was an extremely beautiful apartment when 
fresh in color, lighted at night, and filled with a brilliant assemblage. At the southern 
end is a grand arch, supported by columns of Potomac variegated marble ( breccia ), 
with white Italian capitals copied from relics in the ruins of Athens. Many other simi- 
lar pillars form a colonnade about the room and sustain the profusely paneled ceiling. 
The cupola, which admits such poor light as the room now gets, was the work of a 
young Italian artist named Bonani, who died soon after, and who took his design from 
the Roman Pantheon. The arch is adorned with an_eagle sculptured from life by Val- 
perti, another Italian of high reputation, while a dignified model for a statue of Liberty, 
wrought in plaster by Causici in 1829, stands beneath the arch over the former position 
of the Speaker's desk. Opposite it, above the entrance door, remains the 
famous old marble clock. It is a notable object, and was executed in this Franzoni's 
city by C. Franzoni, an Italian sculptor, who died May 13, 1819, but the ClOCk. 

design is said to have been drawn by Latrobe. The theme is the Flight 
of Time. The Genius of History is represented as standing gracefully upon the winged 
chariot of Progress, which is rolling over a globe belted with the signs of the Zodiac. 
History records the incidents of national life as Time overtakes them, and the wheel of 
her swift chariot forms the dial of the clock, which is marked with gilded figures. 

The House of Representatives used this hall from 1808 until 1814. and then from 
1817 to the end of 1857. " Here Clay, Webster, the younger Adams, Calhoun, Randolph, 
Cass, Burges, Wise, Forsyth, Corwin, Wright, and many others won reputation for 
statesmanship, and made the walls ring with their fiery eloquence. Here were many 
fierce and bitter wrangles over vexed questions — turbulent scenes, displays of sectional 
feeling; and here also was much legislative action which has gone into history as wise 
and beneficial. . . The old hall appeared as follows in the latter years of its use by 



26 



PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHITiGTON. 



the House: The Speaker's chair and table stood on a rostrum four feet from the floor, 
and back of the rostrum were crimson curtains, hanging in folds from the capitals of 
the ponderous marble columns which supported the great arch of the hall. The clerk's 
desk stood below the rostrum, and between the columns were sofas and tables for the 
reporters. The Representatives were provided with mahogany desks and wide arm- 
chairs, which were arranged in concentric circles. The hall could accommodate 250 
members. A bronzed iron railing with curtains enclosed the outer row of desks, and 
this constituted the bar of the House. Beyond the railing was the members' lobby, and 
above the lobby were galleries seating about 500 persons. One of the galleries was 
reserved for ladies, and in two of its panels were paintings of Washington and Lafayette, 
which now hang in the present hall of the House. Under the paintings were large 
copies of the Declaration 
of Independence in frames 
ornamented with national 
emblems. The hall was 
lighted by a chandelier, 
which hung from the cen- 
ter of the domed ceiling." 
It was in this hall that 
ex-President John Quincy 
Adams, then a Representa- 
tive for IMassachusetts, was 
prostrated at his desk, on 
February 21, 1848, by 
paralysis, resulting in his 
death two 
Death of days later. 

Adams. A star set 

in the floor statuary hall,— old hall of representatives. 

marks the position of his desk. The gallery is now filled with the overflow of the House 
library from the neighboring upper corridor, and the corners beneath, extending back 
to the rotunda wall, are occupied by the keeper of the House documents, and b}^ the 
Committee on Enrolled Bills and its clerks. An inner office behind the latter is 
that of the clerk of the House, and is the room, then assigned to the Speaker, in which 
Adams died. 

The present use of this room as a hall of memorial statuary is due to a suggestion 
from the late Senator Justin S. Morrill, when he was a Representative from Vermont, 
which resulted in an invitation by Congress, in 1864, to each State to send marble or 
bronze statues of two of her most illustrious sons for permanent preservation. 

As a beginning certain statues and busts owned by the Federal Government were 
collected here. They include Hubbard's plaster copy of Houdon's statue of Washing- 
ton, the face of which was modeled from a plaster cast taken by Houdon* 
Statuary himself at IVIount Vernon in 1785, and Mrs. Fisher Ames' bust of Lincoln, 

Hall. upon a pedestal of Aberdeen granite (a gift), for which $2,000 was paid. 

Here also will be found a marble bust of Senator J. J. Crittenden 
of Kentucky, author of the "Crittenden Compromise" measure and Harrison's 




*Jeau Autoine Houdon, who was a cultivated French sculptor (1741-1828), educated hi Paris and 
Rome, was employed by the State of Virginia to make a statue of Washington. He came and studied 
his suliject, resided for several weeks witli the family at Mount Vernon, cast Washington's face, and 
then made in Italy the original slal ue, now in the capitol at Kichmond. It is the most faithful portrait 
in existence of the Father of His Country in his later years. This plaster copy cost $2,000. 



A TOUR OF THE CAPITOL. 27 

Attorney- General, by Joel T. Hart; and a portrait of Joshua R. Gi(l(lin<?s, by Miss 
C. L. Ransom. 

A few States have sent the effigies called for, and they stand in the dim light as if 
petrified with surprise at the miscellaneous company of greatness in which they find 
themselves, and the tedium of waiting to be let out. Some are of high merit, but many 
are not, and none can be fairly estimated or enjoyed when set up in this gloomy and 
echoing hall, like a lot of gravestones exposed for sale in a dealer's warerooms. Follow- 
ing is a catalogue of these State statues : 

California: Gen. James Shields, by Leonard W. Volk. 

Connecticut: Gov. Jonathan Trumbull (the original "Brother Jonathan," 1710-1785) 
and Roger Sherman, one of the Signers of the Declaration of Independence (1721-1793), 
both the work of C. B. Ives, and placed here in 1872. 

Indiana: Oliver P. Morton, Governor of that State during the Civil War. 
Maine: Gov. William King (17G8-1852), by Franklin W. Simmons, 1877. 
MassncJntsetts: Gov. John Wiuthrop (1588-1649) by Richard S. Greenough (a brother 
of Horatio Grenough), dated 1870 ; and Samuel Adams (1722-1803), by 
Anne Whitney, 1876. State 

Michigan: Lewis Cass (1782-1866), Senator and Secretary of State, Statues. 

liy Daniel Chester French, dated 1887. 

Missouri: Sen. Frank P. Blair (1821-1876); and Sen. Thomas H. Benton (1782-1858). 
New Hampshire: Gen. John Stark (1728-1822); Daniel Webster (1782-1852). Both by 
Carl Conrad, after the statues in Concord, N. H. 

New Jersey: Richard Stockton (1730-1781), one of the Signers, in marble; and Gen. 
Philip Kearney (1815-1862) in bronze. Both are from models by IL K. Brown. 

Ncio York: Vice-President George Clinton (1739-1812), by H. K. Brown, and cast by 
Wood in Philadelphia in 1873; Chancellor Robert Livingston (1747-1813), by E. D. Pal- 
mer, cast in Paris in 1874. 

Ohio: President James A. Garfield (1831-1881) and Senator and Governor William 
Allen. Both are by Charles H. Niehaus. 

Pennsylvania: Robert Fulton (1765-1815), who was born in this State, but made his 
career elsewhere, by Howard Roberts; and Gen John P. G. Muhlenberg (1746-1807), by 
Helen Blanche Nevin. 

lUiocU Island: Gen. Nathanael Greene (1742-1786), by H. K. Brown, dated 1869; and 
Roger Williams (1606-1683), by Franklin Simmons, 18:0. 

Vermont: Col. Ethan Allen (1737-1789), a colossal marble figure, dated 1875, by Larkiu 
G. Mead of that State ; and Senator Jacob Collamer (1791-1865), Taylor's Postmaster- 
General, by Hiram Powers. 

West Virginia: Senator John M. Kenna, by Alexander Doyle. 

Wisconsin: Father James Marquette, missionary-explorer (1637-1675), by 
Trentanove. 

Statuary Hall has surprising acoustic properties, which the Capitol guides have learned, 
and apply to the amusement of sightseers and their own profit. Curious echoes, whisp- 
ers distinct at a distance, and ability to hear what is inaudible to a person 
at your elbow, are among the curiosities of sound observable at certain Acoustic 

points. One experiment easily tried is for two persons to place their faces Curiosities. 
close in the corners of the room beside the pillars of the arch ; they may 
speak in a low tone and be heard distinctly, each by the other. The Capitol guides, it 
may be remarked, include some very well informed men, who can make themselves of 
great use to a stranger in this immense and storied building; and it is the only place in 
the city where a professional guide is of any use whatever. The Capitol guides are peo- 
mitted to charge 50 cents an hour, but are often cheerfully paid much more. 



28 PICTOKIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 

Leaving Statuary Hall by the door under the arch, you quit the limits of the old 
Capitol, and traverse the corridor to the southern or House wing. The principal doors 

of the House confront you as you reach the lobby, each guarded, if Con- 
House of gress is in session, by doorkeepers, whose business it is to see that none 

Representa- enter who have not "the rights of the floor." 
tives. The Hall of Representatives (occupied since December 16, 1857) is an 

oblong room 139 feet long by 93 wide and 36 high, the "floor" being 115 
by 67 feet. The ceiling is a framework of iron, bronzed and gilded, inlaid with glass. 
upon which the coats-of-arms of the States are painted, mellowing rather than obscuring 
the abundant light. The Speaker's raised desk is against the southern wall, and below 
him are the marble desks of the clerks and official reporters, the latter keeping a steno- 
graphic record of everything done or said, to be published in The Congressional Record 
next morning. The assistant doorkeeper sits at the Speaker's left, and the sergeant-at- 
arms within easy call. This latter officer is the Speaker's policeman — the representative 
of the physical force which backs up the civil rule; and his symbol of authority is the 
mace, which reposes on a marble pedestal at the right of the Speaker. 

"The mace was adopted by the House in the First Congress, and has been in use ever 
since. When it is placed on its pedestal, it signifies that the House is in session and 

under the Speaker's authority; when it is placed on the floor, that the 
IMace. House is in committee of the whole. The mace is a bundle of black rods 

fastened with transverse bands of silver, like the Roman /«,-ces. On its 
top is a silver globe surmounted by a silver eagle. When the sergeant-at-arms is execut- 
ing the commands of the Speaker, he is required to bear aloft the mace in his hands." 

Grouped in concentric semicircles are the desks of the Representatives, all small, uni- 
form, and handsome, those of the Republican party on the Speaker's left and those of the 
Democratic party on the right. When a division of the House takes place, all come down 
the side aisles into the space in front of the clerk's desk and pass out up the central aisle 
between counting-tellers. Over the Speaker's head is the press gallery, and doors lead 
to the lobby and retiring-rooms in the rear. Beneath the galleries, in rear of the Repre- 
sentatives' desks, are "cloakrooms" — small apartments where the Members not only 
hang up their hats and overcoats, but smol;e and talk beyond the hubbub of the House. 
The galleries (reached from the next floor) are divided into sections, some of which 
are devoted to ladies and others reserved for diplomats, friends of Congressmen, etc. 

The doorkeepers will give anyone who asks for it a plan of the House 
House showing where the Representatives are seated. Twelve hundred persons 

Galleries. may be crowded into these galleries. 

The Hall of Representatives is a" business-like room — elegant but not 
over-ornamented. It is carpeted and draped in warm colors, but the prevailing tone of 
the decoration is white and gold. At the right of the chair hangs a full-length portrait 
of Washington as President, by Vanderlyn, ordered by Congress in 1832, to signalize 
the hundredth anniversary of Washington's birth, and delivered in 1834, at the price of 

$2,500. On the left is Ary Scheffer's portrait of Lafayette, painted in 
Paintings. 1822, and presented to Congress by that artist in 1824. The panel at the 

right of the "Washington" is taken by Bierstadt's painting of the "Settle- 
ment of California," while occupying the corresponding panel on the west, adjoining 
the "Lafayette," is the "Discovery of the Hudson " by the same artist, who was paid 
$10,000 for each. Adjoining the last named is a fresco by Brumidi, representing Wash- 
ington treating with Cornwallis for the surrender of his army at Yorktown — a gift to 
Congress from this painter. % 

Corridors surround the House, paved with Minton tiles, wainscoted with marble, 
and having decorated ceilings and other adornments. Turning to the right (west) at 



A TOUR OF THE CAPITOL. 



29 



the entrance, you find, just beyond the corner, the Western Grand Staircase, leading to 
the attic story or gallery fioor. 

This staircase is double, with massive balustrades of polished Tennessee marble, 
and is lighted from the roof through stained glass. At the foot is a bronze bust 
of a Chippewa Chief, Bee-she-kee or The Buffalo, modeled from life in 
1855 by Vincenti. The opposite wall is largely covered by the fresco by Western 

Leutze, representing western emigration under the title "Westward, Ho !" Grand 

The action in the 'figures is the best part of the composition, for which Staircase. 
$20,000 was paid. Strips of wall beside the picture are highly decorated. 
That on the right contains a portrait of Daniel Boone, as a typical explorer, and the 




THE HALL OF THE HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES. 

motto: "The spirit grows with its allotted spaces; the mind is narrowed in a nar- 
row sphere." That on the left has a portrait of Col. William Clark, to whose energetic 
action the United States mainly owes its early possession of the Ohio Valley, with a 
familiar misquotation from Jonathan M. Sewall, which should read : 

No pent-up Utica contracts your powers. 
But the whole boundless continent is yours. 

Beneath Leutze's fresco is a similarly treated sketch by Bierstadt, of the Golden Gate, 
or entrance to the Bay of San Francisco, California. 

The rooms beyond the staircase are offices of the clerks of the House, and the fourth 
(in the corner) is the Speaker's room. An elevator is near here. 

Turning down the corridor, across the southern end of the wing and in nar of 
the hall, the handsome retiring-rooms of the Representatives are passed ; 
and at the end, opposite the basement stairs, is the House Lobby. Bronze 

This basement stairway is one of the four beautiful, bronze-railed Staimays. 
private stairs leading down to committee-rooms, etc., on the floor below, 
which are found at opposite corners of the halls of both the Senate and the House. 



30 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 

Their balustrades are exquisite works of art in metal, were cast in Philadelphia after 
designs by Baudin, and cost something over $500 each. It is worth an effort to 
see them. 

The House Lobby is richly furnished, and contains many portraits — most of which 
are craj^on-drawings -r of the Speakers of the past, who find themselves in a sort of 
legal obscurity delightfully suitable to the mysterious bargains and vague "understand- 
ings " associated with this apartment, where Congressmen confer with those whom they 
choose to admit. This and the adjoining apartments are not open to public inspection 
after noon when Congress is in session. 

Passing another bronze-railed stairway and turning to the left, three committee-rooms 
of great interest are passed on the eastern front of this wing. In the corner is that of 
the Committee on Appropriations ; next comes that of Ways and Means, which is richly 
frescoed ; and in the farther (northeastern) corner is that of Military Affairs, hung with 
a notable collection of paintings of the principal forts of the United States, gathered 
by Lieutenant-Colonel Eastman, U. S. A. From this coiTidor the 
Eastern Eastern Grand Staircase, similar to the western, ascends to the gallery 

Grand floor. At its foot is Powers' statue of Thomas Jefferson, which cost f 10,- 

Stairway. OOO, but is difficult to see. Over the lauding hangs Frank B. Carpen- 

ter's painting of the "Signing of the Proclamation of Emancipation," 
by President Lincoln, in the presence of his Cabinet, September 22, 1862, presented to 
Congress in 1878 by Mrs. Elizabeth Thompson, who, it is said, paid $25,000 for the pic- 
ture. Beginning at the left the portraits are : Edwin M. Stanton, Secretary of War ; 
Salmon P. Chase, Secretary of the Treasury; Abraham Lincoln, President; Gideon 
Welles, Secretary of the Navy; William H. Seward (seated). Secretary of State; Caleb B. 
Smith, Secretary of the Interior; IMontgomery Blair, Postmaster-General; Edward Bates, 
Attorney-General. Mr. Carpenter was for a considerable time an inmate of Lincoln's 
family at the White House, and has written many interesting reminiscences of that time. 
Ascending to the attic floor we may again make the circuit of this wing through cor- 
ridors whose inner doors open into the galleries of the House. At the top of the staircase 
hangs a full-length portrait of Henry Clay, painted by Neagle in 1843 for 
Portraits. the family, and regarded by Mr. Clay as the best portrait made of him. 
It is flanked on one side by a portrait of Charles Carroll of Carrollton, the 
last survivor of the signers of the Declaration of Independence, painted by Chester Har- 
ding, a contemporary and rival of Gilbert Stuart, and on the other side by a portrait 
of Gunning Bedford, a member of the Continental Congress from Delaware, painted by 
Gilbert Stuart and presented by his family. 

Turning the corner toward the left we walk along the corridor in the rear of the 
House galleries, the distribution of which is indicated by labels over the doors. The 
most conspicuous ctmipartmcnt is that devoted to the press, which has a broad space over 
the Speaker's head and facing the House; it is fitted with desks, and gov- 
HOUSC erned hy stringent rules made by a committee of correspondents. More 

Galleries. than half of the gallery, with seats for some 500 persons, is open to the 

public, which may come and go at will; portions of this arc nominally 
reserveil for ladies; but gentlemen with them may also enter. A private room for ladies, 
with a woman attendant, will be f(mndiu the south front. Certain rooms on this floor 
are devoted to House committees and other official purposes, and the second story of 
the corridor connecting this gallery with that of Statuary Hall is fiUed with the House's 
file of public documents, bound luiiformly in sheepskin, and now numbering nearly 
150,000 volumes. The early records of Congress are very valuable. The only picture 
here is that of Chief Justice Marshall, which hangs opposite the head of the western 
staircase, and is an excellent full-length painted by R. N. Brooke in 1880. 



A TOUR OF THE CAPITOL. 31 

The basement of the House, to which an elevator makes a convenient descent, con- 
tains the House post office (southeast corner); committee and clerlis' 
rooms, of whicli several are elaborately frescoed ; a public restaurant (at HoUSC 

the foot of the eastern staircase); elaborate bathrooms for Represcnta- Basement. 
tives, and public lavatories for men (at the foot of the western stairway). 

The room of the Committee on Agriculture was decorated by Brumidi, as his intro- 
ductory work, with what some critics have pronounced the best frescoes in the building. 
The}' represent Cincinnatus called from his fields to be dictator, and Putnam going 
from his plow to be a general in the Continental army. There are also sketches con- 
trasting harvests in ancient and modern times, and medallions of Washington and 
Jefferson. Figures of Flora (spring), Ceres (summer), Bacchus (autumn), and Boreas 
(winter) accent the decoration of the ceiling. The Committee on Indian Affairs has the 
benefit of wall paintings of Indian scenes executed by Lieutenant-Colonel Eastman, 
U. S. A., whose collection of pictures of forts, largely painted by himself, is preserved 
in the room of the House Committee on Military Affairs. 

The sulj-basement beneath this part of the building contains the elaborate machinery 
for heating and ventilating the Hall of Representatives and this wing generally. Fresh 
air is drawn in from a remote part of the grounds, and its temperature, 
degree of drj'uess, etc., are regulated by ingenious machinery, which is Sub- 

open to inspection by visitors who wish to descend to the engine-room. basemcnt. 

A similar apparatus is in the Senate sub-basement for the service of the 
north wing. The central part of the sub-basement is a labyrinth of dark archways used 
for storage, when used at all. 

A basement corridor extends from end to end of the Capitol on this ground floor, and 
furnishes a convenient means of reaching the Senate wing without n^tracing one's steps. 
The white marl)le pillars will at once attract the eye. The connoisseur will remark that 
though of Corinthian mold, their floriated capitals represent leaves of American plants, 
especially tobacco. This was a pretty notion of Benj. H. Latrobe, and a still liner exam- 
ple exists in the Senate vestibule. Half way down this corridor through the basement 
(which really is the ground floor, numerous doors opening directly upon 
the plaza and terrace), we come to the crypt, an apartment formed of Crypt. 

the spaces between the forty Doric columns that support the massive 
brick arches upon which is laid the floor of the rotunda; a star in the pavement marks 




WESTWARD, HO!— WESTWARD THE COURSE OF EMPIRE TAKES ITS WAY.- Painting by Emanuel Leutze. 



32 PICTOEIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 

the center of the building immediately beneath the dome. A large part of the crypt 
has been walled off for storage of documents. A passage to the left leads out to the 
western entrance and upstairs into the rotunda; and another leads to the basement doors 
under the grand portico of the eastern front. 

The Undercroft is the name applied to the vault beneath the crypt, intended by the 

founders of the Republic as the mausolevim of Washington and his 
Undercroft. family ; but these good people preferred to be buried at Mount Vernon, 

and the undercroft remains empty. 

Passing onward, a few steps take one past the light-shaft to the door (on the right) of 

the old Supreme Court Chamber, immediately under the present chamber. It was in 

this room, now tilled with the exceedingly valuable law library of the court, that all the 

great cases were heard previous to 1857. It was injured by tire in 1898. A few steps 

farther carry one out of the old main building and into the basement of 
Senate the Senate wing. Here there is a public restaurant, public lavatories for 

Basement. both men and women, and many offices and committee-rooms. All the 

corridors and vestibules at this end are well lighted, and the walls and 
ceilings are very profusely and elaborately decorated with mural designs in the Italian 
manner, daintily drawn and brightly colored. Among thtm are many portraits of early 
American men of note, in medallions, and a long series of charming drawings in colors 
of North American birds, small mammals, and flowers. The vestibule of the Senate 
post office, in the northwest corner, is particularly picturesque, having over the 'post- 
office door a large painting of Fulton, pointing, as if from a balcony, to his first steam- 
boat, the Claremont, passing the Palisades of the Hudson. The door of the Committee 
on Post Office Affairs is suitably indicated by a sprightly picture of Franklin, who 
organized the American Post Office ; while over the opposite door is a likeness of Fitch, 
Fulton's competitor in developing the idea of steam navigation. 

Other especially fine frescoes are to be seen in the rooms of the Senate committees on 
Indian Affairs, Naval Affairs, Military Affairs (where Revolutionary battles are pictured 

in glorious colors), and Foreign Affairs ; the doors of the latter and of the 
Frescoes in Committee on Patents are further distinguished by frescoes by Brumidi 
Committee above the lintels — in the former case "The Signing of the Treaty of 
Rooms. Ghent," and in the latter a full-length picture of Robert Fulton. The 

rendering over and over in painting and carving of the same subjects and 
faces is one of the peculiarities of the unsystematic and uuuniform embellishment of the 
Capitol. The room of the Senate Committee on Public Lands contains the painting 
"The Recall of Columbus," by Aug. G. Heaton, which used to hang in the corridor of 
the Senate galleries. 

A stairway or an elevator at either the eastern or western end of the main corridor will 
take one up to the main story of the Senate wing. Here, as in the southern wing, corridors 
extend completely around the Senate Chamber, which occupies the center of this wing. 
The Senate Chamber is 113 feet long, 80 feet wide, and 36 feet high, including the 
galleries, which extend all around and will accommodate about 1,000 persons. The 
space under the galleries on the east, west, and south sides is partitioned into cloak- 
rooms for the Senators, while on the north side is the Senate lobby. The area of the 
floor is diminished by these rooms to 84 feet long by 51 wide. 

The flat ceiling of iron girders inclosing broad panels of glass, painted with 
Senate emblems of the Union, Progress, the Army, the Navy, the Mechanic Arts, 

Chamber. etc., admits a soft light day and night. The marble walls are paneled 

by pilasters in couples, and the doors are of choice mahogany. The 
carpet is usually green, setting off well the mahogany desks of quaint pattern, which, 
with the chairs, are now uniform, and the profuse gilding about the walls and ceiling. 



A TOFR OF THE CAPITOL. 



83 



Each desk bears a silver plate with the occupant's name. A Senator keeps a desk 
only during a single Congress, drawing lots at the beginning of the next for a choice of 
seats — the Republicans sitting at the left and the Democrats at the right of the presid- 




THE SENATE CHAMBER. 

ing officer. Some desks are old and historic, being the same at which Senators distin- 
guished in the early history of the Republic sat or delivered their forensic thunders. 

The President of the Senate is the Vice-President of the United States. He sits 
upon a platform within an arched niche and behind a broad desk. His chair is high 
backed and a magnificent piece of carved mahogany, a gift to Vice-President Hobart. 
At his right is the Sergeant-at-Arms, and at his left the Assistant Doorkeeper. In front 
of him, a step lower down, is the desk of the Senate clerks, and in front of that, on the 
floor of the arena, the tables of the official reporters. The press gallery 
is behind the President, and facing him are the galleries reserved for the Senate 

Diplomatic Corps and for Senators' families. The end galleries are open Galleries. 

to the public, the eastern one being set apart for women, who will find a 
convenient parlor and retiring-room, with a woman attendant, at its northern extremity. 
A plan of the Senators' seats may be obtained from the doorkeepers. 

Busts of all the Vice-Presidents are being placed in niches in the walls, of which 
the following is a roster, with the names of the sculjjtors : 

John Adams (Daniel C. French), Thomas Jefferson (M. Ezekiel), Aaron Burr (Jacques 
Joavenal), George Clinton (Victor A. Crane), p]lbridge Gerry (Herbert 
Adams), Daniel Tompkins (C. H. Niehaus), Martin Van Buren (U. S. J. BustS of 

Dunbar), George M. Dallas (II. J. Ellicott), Hannibal Hamlin (Franklin Vice- 

Simmons), Henry Wilson (Daniel C. French), W. A. Wheeler (Edwin Presidents. 
Potter), Chester A. Arthur (Aug. St. Gaudens), Thomas A. Hendricks 
(U. S. J. Dunbar), Levi P. Morton (F. Edwin Elwell), Adlai E. Stevenson (Franklin 
Simmons), John C. Calhoun, and R. M. Johnson. 



34' PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 

Outside the Senate Chamber many interesting things are to be seen on the main 
floor. Turning to the right from the main or rotunda entrance to the wing (and to the 
floor of the chamber), you find on the end wall a famous portrait (head) of Washington 
by Gilbert Stuart, which was bought by (Congress in 1876, from ex-Senator Chestnut 
of South Carolina, for $1,200. Opposite it is a bright portrait of John Adams, copied 
by Andrews from Gilbert Stuart. Passing through the door between 
Eastern these portraits, and turning to the left, you come to the magnificent east- 

Staircase. ern staircase of Tennessee marble, illuminated by a rich skylight of 
stained glass. At its foot stands Powers' marble statue of Benjamin 
Franklin, which cost |10,000. The wall of the sta'r landing bears Powell's striking 
painting (an enlarged copy, for which $25,000 was paid by contract in 1873, of an earlier 
picture, 1863, made by Powell for the State of Ohio) of Com. Oliver P. Perry at the 
battle of Lake Erie, in 1810, transferring himself and his flag from his sinking flagship 
" Lawrence " to the "Niagara," in which he won a signal victory. 

This transfer was made under fire. Perry's younger brother, Matthew (who after- 
ward opened Japan to the world), was then a midshipman, and is depicted here as 
entreating his brother and commander not to expose himself so recklessly. The faces 
of the sailors were drawn from once well-known employes about the Capitol. 

Just beyond the staircase is a noble vestibule, with coupled columns, having Corin- 
thian capitals, designed by Latrobe, though usually credited to Jefferson, composed 
of a most graceful arrangement of Indian corn and tobacco leaves in place of the con- 
ventional acanthus. They are of white marble, but the walls are of scagliola. A bust 
of President John Tyler is the only ornament. This vestibule (where there is an elevator) 
opens upon the eastern portico through the Senate Bronze Doors designed by Thomas 
Crawford, cast by J. T. Ames at Chicopee, Mass., and set up here in 1868. 

These doors are equally interesting, and the workmanship is as fine as is that of 
the Rogers doors. The upper panel of each valve (one of which represents War and the 
other Peace, as typified in the figures in the foot-panel of each half) cou- 
Crawford tains a star surrounded by oak leaves, and acts as a ventilator. There are 
Bronze Doors, six panels, constituting the body of the door, in which are represented, 
in alto-relievo, events connected with the Revolution, the foundation of 
our Government, and the erection of the Capitol, chronologically as follows: The battles 
of Bunker Hill, Monmouth, and Yorktown; the welcome of Washington in Trenton on 
his way to New York in 1789 (the same panel contains portraits of the sculptor, his wife, 
three children, and of Rogers, the sculptor of the main door); the inauguration of Wash- 
ington in 1789, and the laying of the corner-stone of the Capitol, September 18, 1793. The 
prominent figures are all likenesses. In the inauguration scene John Adams stands on 
Washington's right; Chancellor Livingston administers the oath, and Mr. Otis holds the 
Bible. The remaining figures are Alexander Hamilton, Generals Knox and St. Clair, 
Roger Sherman, and Baron Steuben. The frame over the door is supported by enriched 
brackets. The ornamentation is scroll-work and acanthus, with the cotton boll, stalks 
and ears of corn, grapes, and entwining vines. Above the door are two sculptured 
figures in American marble representing Justice and History by Crawford, whose price 
was $3,000. It will be remembered, also, that Crawford designed the figures that fill the 
pediment of this portico. This bronze door was his latest work, he was paid $6,000 
for the designs, and William H. Rinehart was given $8,940 for the plaster model, while 
the casting (14,000 pounds) cost $50,500. 

Returning into the vestibule, it is well to turn aside through the first door, at the 
right, and see Brumidi's excellent frescoes in the room of the Senate Committee on the 
District of Columbia. This was originally assigned to be the Senate post office, whence 
the artist's choice of History, Geography, Physics, and the Telegraph as subjects for his 



A TOUR OF THE CAPITOL. 



35 



brush. The figures in each design are large and strikingly drawn, and the decorative 
accessories are most pleasing. 

This vestibule opens at its inner end on the right into the Senate Reception room, an 
apartment sixty feet long, but divided by an arch, where Senators receive callers — 
especially ladies — upon business. It is gaudily ornate. The tloor is of 
Mintou tiles, and the walls are covered with rococo designs in stucco, in Reception- 
high relief, and heavily gilded. The vaulted ceiling has also many roOfll. 

gilded stucco ornaments, and certain panels are embellished with allegor- 
ical frescoes by Brumidi entitled "Liberty," "Plenty," "Peace," "War," "Pru- 
dence," "Justice," " Temperance," and "Strength"; while an excellently drawn and 
brilliantly colored mural painting, under the arch on the south wall, depicts Washington 
in conference with Jefferson and Hamilton — one of the best things in the Capitol. 

This room opens eastwardly into the office of the sergeant-at-arms, where a very large 
ceiling painting is visible, and westwardly it opens into the lobby. 

In the Senate Lobby, entering from the public reception-room, as above noted, the 
first door at the right opens into the Vice-President's Room, where Henry Wilson died, 
November 22, 1875, and whose bust by Daniel C. French remains here as a memento. 
The next door admits to the Marble Room — a large senatorial reception 
or withdrawing room, popularly so called because every part of its Vice- 

interior is formed of variegated and sculptured marbles, all from East President's 
Tennessee except the white Italian capitals and ceilings. Here the "grave and i^Iarble 
and reverend" Senators hold consultations at ease, or receive their Rooms. 

more privileged guests. Luxurious chairs, soft sofas, warm rugs, and 
lace curtains abound, and the room is dazzling at night when all the lights are aglow. 
The self-registering thermometers, barometers, wind-indicators, etc., to be seen here, 
furnish a branch station of the U. S. Weather Service ; and the officer in charge records 
the phases of the weather all over the country upon the glass face of a 
map in a most interesting way. The House enjoys a similar substation. Weather 

Next west of this splendid saloon is the President's room, another ornate Service. 

apartment where it has been the custom since Andrew Johnson's time 
(except in Cleveland's case) for Presidents to sit during the last day of a congressional 

session, in order to be ready 
to sign bills rciiuiring an 
immediate signature. This 
room is brilliantly deco- 
rated, including medallion 
portraits of 

President President's 
Washington Room. 

I ml promi- 
nent members of his first 
( 'abinet — Thomas Jeffer- 
son, Secretary of State ; 
Henry Knox, Secretary of 
War; Alexander Hamilton, 
Secretary of the Treasury ; 
Edmund Randolph, Attor- 
ney-General, and Samuel 
Osgood, Postmaster- 
General. The four corner- 
frescoes overhead represent 




PERRY AT THE BATTLE OF LAKE ERIE. 
Painting by Powell. Eastern Staircase. 



36 



PICTOEIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 




Columbus (Discovery), Ves- 
pucius (Exploration), 
Franklin (History), and 
William Brewster (Reli- 
gion). Between these are 
symbolic figures of Liberty, 
Legislation. Religion, and 
Executive Power. All this 
work is by the versatile 
Brumidi, and in his best 
vein. The tiling of this 
and of the adjoining rooms 
is covered in winter by 
rich carpeting. 

This lobby and the 
three rooms last named are 

not visible THE grand canon of the Yellowstone. 

Western during SeS- Painting by Thomas Moran. 

Staircase. sions of Congress, except by the courtesy of some Senator. The rooms 
opening from the corridor west of the Senate Chamber belong to the 
clerks and certain committees and call for no special remark. The visitor may there- 
fore pass on at once to the Western Grand Staircase of white American marble and 

ascend to the gallery floor. 
Dr. Horatio Stone's 
statue of John Hancock 
stands at the foot of this 
staircase. It was sculptured 
in 1861, and bought for 
$5,500. On the wall of the 
landing is the large paint- 
ing, by Walker, of the 
" Storming of Chepultepec" 
(captured by Scott's army 
on September 18, 1847, dur- 
ing the Mexican War), for 
which $6,000 was paid. 
Roose says that it was "orig- 
inally painted for a panel 
in the Committee-room of 
Military Affairs of the House, and doubtless will eventually be placed there." At the 
head of the stairway hangs a full-length portrait of Washington, by Charles Wilson Peale, 
painted in 1779, the first sittings for which were given at Valley Forge. 

This west corridor admits one to the gentlemen's and to one of the reserved 
Senate galleries of the Senate, and to numerous committee-rooms. The rooms 

Galleries. in the northern front of the wing, behind the press gallery, are not public. 

Tui'ning to the right from the elevator, or from the head of the stairs, let 
us walk around through the south corridor, whose doors admit to the Senate galleries, 
to the head of the eastern 
grand stairway. Beyond the 
stairway are two of the most 
interesting rooms in the 
building, a hall looking 
out upon the plaza, and 
another, adjoining, having a 
delightful prospect north- 
ward. These rooms not only 
contain fine tiling and mural 
decorations, but some nota- 
ble paintings. In the former 
are a portrait of John C. 
Calhoun, and Moran's cele- 
brated pictures of the canons 
of the Colorado and of the 

Yellowstone, which were the chasm of the Colorado.— Painting by Thomas Wloran. 




THE FIRST FIGHT OF THE IRONCLADS. 
Painting by W. F. Halsall, Lobby of Senate Gallery. 




A TOUR OF THE CAPITOL. 



37 




painted from actual studies, and sold to the Government for $10,000 each. Those famil- 
iar with these marvelous regions of the country know that the coloring is by no means 
too vivid, and that the drawing is highly expressive. This room opens into the gallery 
for Senators' families, the first and second seats of which are reserved for the President 
and Vice-President, and their friends. 

The adjoining hall (from which opens a ladies' retiring-room, with a woman attend- 
ant) has the painting representing the encounter between the Monitor and Merrimac, 

painted by 

Halsaii, and Paintings 
purchased and 

in 1877 for Portraits. 

$15,000. the 

only exception to the rule 
that no reminder of the 
Civil War shall be placed 
in the Capitol, an exception 
due to the fact that this 
was in reality a drawn 
battle, where the courage 
of the contestants was con- 
spicuously equal, and 
where the naval methods 
of the world were revolu- 
tionized. Its historical 
interest is therefore world- 
wide. Here also are por- 
traits of Lincoln and Gar- 
field, in Italian mosaic, the 
gift of Signor Salviati of 
Venice, Italy ; a portrait 
THE ELECTORAL COMMISSION. oj d^^^rles Sumner! by AV. 

Painting by Mrs. Cornelia A. Fassett. In Lobby of Senate Gallery. In^'llls dated 1870 ' and 

one of Gen. John A. Dix, by Imogene Robinson Morrell, dated 1883. It was John A. Dix, 
afterward a Major-Gencral, Senator, and Governor of New York, who, when Secretary of 
the Treasury in 1861, sent to one of his special agents in Louisiana the famous order con- 
taining the words : "If anyone attempts to haul down the American flag shoot him on 
tlie spot," which so thrilled patriotic hearts. Here also are several busts 
of high artistic excellence, as well as historic interest. These are of Kos- BustS. 

ciusko, the Hungarian patriot, by 11. D. Saunders; of Count Pulaski, 
Polish soldier of the llevolution, by H. D. Mochowski ; of Thomas Crawford, the 
sculptor, by Gogliardi, and a marble head of Bee-Shee-Kee, a Chippewa Indian. 

A small special elevator makes this room directly accessible from the basement ; and 
descending by it, or by the eastern grand stairway, to the main floor, one walks to the 
main corridor, where, upon the wall at the western end, hang beautiful portraits of 
Thomas Jefferson, a copy from an original by Thomas Sully, and of Patrick Henry, a 
copy by Matthews, from an original by Sully, an eminent painter of portraits and his- 
torical pictures, who died in Boston in 1873. The, portraits on the eastern wall have 
already been described. The survey of the Senate wing has now been finished, and the 
Supreme Court Chamber is next to be inspected. This is reached by the main passage- 
way leading from the Senate to the rotunda. Here, as soon as the older part of the 
buikling is entered, one comes to the door of the Supreme Court, guarded by an 
attendant who will admit visitors upon all proper occasions. 

Beginning with the resort of the populace in the rotunda, the visitor has 
now inspected in succession tlie halls of the lower and upper house of Congress, 
and now concludes with the tribunal which pa.sses upon the validity of the laws they 
pass. To sit at the rear of this old hall when the court is in session, as happens five 
days in the week, during the greater part of the year, is an impressive experience. 

The Supreme Court of the United States now occupies the chamber 
in the old Capitol designed for the Senate, and occupied by that body Supreme 

from 1800 until the completion of the new wing in 1859. Previously it Court. 

sat in the hall, prepared for it, beneath this one. 

This chamber was designed by Latrobe, and its general resemblance to the old Hall 
of Representatives (Statuary Hall) will be noted , but it is smaller, measuring 75 by 45 
feet wide, and 45 feet high to the zenith of the low half-dome. Beneath the wide arch of 



38 



PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON, 




SUPREME COURT CHAMBER. 

the rear wall is a row of columns of variegated gray Potomac marble, with white Ionic capi- 
tals, in the center of which was placed the chair of the President of the Senate, draped, as 
now, by crimson curtains and surmounted by a hovering eagle. On the dais below him 
were the desks of the clerks, where now stands the long "bench" of the most august 
court in the land. At the right of the "bench" is the clerk of the court, at the left the 
Marshal ; and the tables of the Attorney-General, official reporters, stenographers, and 
counsel legally admitted to practice here, occupy the semicircular carpeted "bar" 
formerly covered by the desks of Senators. In the rear are public seats ; but the light 
iron galleries formerly built overhead have been removed, and the walls, with their mar- 
ble pilasters and busts of past Chief Justices, are now wholly visible. The list of busts 

is as follows : At the left of the clock (as you face the Court), (1) John 
Busts Of Jay (1789 to 1795). (2) Oliver Ellsworth (1796 to 1799). (3) Roger B. 

Justices. Taney (1835 to 1864). (4) Morrisson R. Waite (1874 to 1888). On the 

right of the clock : (1) John Rutledge (an Associate Justice nominated in 
1795, but never confirmed). (2) John Marshall (1801 to 1835). (3) Salmon P. Chase 
(1865 to 1873). The Justices, who, upon court days, enter in procession prtcisely at 
noon, wearing the voluminous black silk gowns which alone remain in the United 
States of thelraditional costume of the English judiciary, sit in a prescribed order of 
seniority. In the center is the Chief Justice ; upon his right hand is the Associate Jus- 
tice longest in service, and beyond him the second, third, and fourth ; and then, upon 
the left "of the Chief Justice, the fifth, sixth, seventh, and eighth, or youngest in rank 
of appointment. The court is at present composed as follows, in order of seniority: 
The Chief Justice, Melville W. Fuller, appointed in 1888; Associate Justices, John M. 
Harlan, 1877 ; Horace Gray, 1881 ; David J. Brewer, 1889 ; Henry B. Brown, 1891 ; 
George Shi ras, Jr., 1892; Edward D. White, 1894; Rufus Peckham, 1895; and Joseph 
McKenna, 1898. 

The robing-room, where the Justices meet informally and don their robes, is a hand- 
some parlor, with much antiipie furniture, west of the corridor, and is adorned with 

some notable portraits of the (Hiief Justices of the past. 
Robing- The iiortrait of John Jay, l)y Gilbert Stuart, represents him arrayed in a 

room. black satin robe with broad "scarlet facings. It was a gift to the court by 

his grandson, John Jay, late M mister to Austria. That of Taney, by Ilealy, 
was presented by the Washington" B:"" Association. The portrait of Chie/" Justice 



A TOUR OF THE CAPITOL. 



39 



Marshall is by Rembrandt Peale, and was presented to Chief Justice Chase by the Bar 
of New York, and at his death was bequeathed by him to the Supreme Court. 

Neii^hboring rooms are devoted to eourt officers and clerks. The entrance to the 
Senate Library, on the floor above, is nearlj' opposite to the Supreme Court. 

A short corridor (from which opens the winding stairway that leads to the top of the 
dome) conducts you from the door of the Supreme Court into the rotunda, and com- 
pletes the tour of the Capitol. 

The western front of the Capitol is directly reached by leaving the rotunda through 
the western door and passing downstairs beneath the apartment formerly occupied by 
the Library of Congress, when you will emerge upon the terrace. 

Looking back, you perceive the pillared and harmonious addition made to the original 
design of the building for the accommodation of the Library of Congress. It was first 
erected and occupied in 1824, after designs by Latrobe. In 1851 it was 
burned out, over 80,000 books and some valuable paintings being lost. Western 

Its restoration was immediately begun by Thomas U. Walter, who added Front. 

the two side halls, expending $300,000 in the reconstruction. The library 
was moved in 1897 to the magnificent building east of the Capitol grounds described 
in the next chapter. 

The terrace is a broad esplanade, separated from the basement of the building by a 
kind of moat, which permits light and air to enter the lowest story, and adds 
largely to the solidity and architectural grandeur of the Capitol when viewed" from below. 
Underneath this terrace are a series of casemate-like apartments, which were put to a 
novel use during the early days of the Civil War, when this part of the building had 
just been put into form. 

The Capitol in war time was a citadel. Its halls and committee-rooms were used as 
barracks for the soldiers, who barricaded the outer doors with barrels of cement between 
the pillars; its basement galleries were converted into storerooms for army provisions ; 
and the vaults under this terrace were converted into bakeries, where IG.OOO loaves 

of bread were baked every day for many 
months. In Harper's excellent •' Cj'clopa?- 
diaof United States Historj'," p. 947, may 
be seen a picture of this service, with the 
smoke pouring out of improvised chim- 
neys along the outer edge. The ' •bakeries" 
are now clerks' offices and congressional 
committee-rooms. 

Broad flights of stairs, parting right 
and left about a fountain, lead down to a 
lower terrace, in the center of which is the 
bronze sitting figure of Chief Justice John 
Marshall. The artist is the 
renowned American sculp- [Marshall 

tor. Wm. W. Story, who StatUC. 

died in Home in ISO"). This 
statue, which was executed in Italy, was 
presented to the United States by members 
of the bar, while Congress supplied the 
pedestal. It was erected in 1884. and cost 
.1f40.0()(). The Chief Justice, whose jior- 
tiait is said to be an excellent one. is rep- 
resented as seated in his accustomed court- 
room chair and wearing his oflicial robe, 
while his open hand appears to be a gesture 
enforcing some evident truth or benign 
decision. Each side of the marble j)edestal 
bearsa group in low relief — one. " ^linerva 
Dictating the ( 'onstitutitm to Young Amer- 
ica," and the other. "Victory Leading 
Young America to Swear Fidelity on the 
Altar of tlie Union." 

From this statue broad walks descend to 
Pennsylvania Avenue and the Naval Moun- 
STATUE OF CHIEF JUSTICE JOHN MARSHALL, ment on the right and to Maryland Avenue 
By w. w. Story. and the Garfield Monument on the left. 





THE LIBRARY OF Q0\ 




M 


%h. 


^)-^ 


i^ 






1 


\^^M 


S^^,' 



RE$S. — From the Capitpl. 



42 



PICTOEIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 



^^^^1 TT""^ 

^MANUSCRIPTS • I J BIBLIOGRAPHY 

■ • • I ORDER ' ' 




MAIN ENTRANCE 



FIRST STORY PLAN. 

THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 

Floor Plans Prepared under the Direction of Mi: Bernard R. Green, Superintendent 
of the Library Building and Grounds. 

First Story. 



MAIN ENTRANCE HALL. 

raintinRS 1iv John W. Alexander. 
(The Evolution of the Book.) 

1. Tlio Cairn. 

2. Oral Trailition. 

3. Efi.vpn'aii Ilicniglypliics. 

4. I'ifliirc WriiiiiK. 

5. Th(! .Manuscript Book, 
e. The Printing I'rcss. 

raintinRS by Charles Spraguc 
Pcarce. 

1. The Family. 

2. Recreation. 

3. Study. 

4. Labor. 

5. lleliKion. 

G. "Give Instruction Unto 
Those Who Cannot Pro- 
cure It for Themselves." 

7. Rest. 

Paintings by Elihu Vedder, 

1. Anarchy. 

2. Corrupt Legislation. 

3. Government. 

4. Good Administration. 

5. Peace and Prosperity. 



MAIN ENTRANCE HALL 

Cotitiniicd. 
Paintings by H. O. Walker. 

1. Lyric Poetry. 

2. Comus. 

3. Adonis. 

4. Ganymede. 

5. Endvmion. 

fi. Thc'Boy of Winander. 

7. Uriel. 

8. "The Poets Who on Earth 

Have Made I's Ilcirs of 
Truth and Pure f^elight 
by Heavenly Lays." 

COnniDOR LEADING SOfTII FROM 
MAIN ENTRANCE HALL. 



Paint 
1. 
2. 
3. 
4. 

i). 

H. 
9. 



ings by W. McEwcn. 
Paris. 
Jason. 

Bellerophon. 
Orpheus. 
Perseus. 
Prometheus. 
Theseus. 
Achilles. 
Hercules. 



REPRESENTATIVES' READING- 
ROOM. 

Mosaics bv Frederick Dielman. 

A Law. 

B Ilistorv. 
Ceiling Paintings liv Carl Gutherz. 

1. Creatinn <if I.isrht. 

2. Lislit (if Excellence. 

3. Light of Poetry. 

4. Light of State." 

^. Research. The Light of. 

fi. Truth. 

7. Science. " " 

CORRIDOR LEADING NORTH FROM 
MAIN ENTRANCE HALL. 

Paintings by Edward Simmons. 

1. Nfelpomene. 

2. Clio. 

3. Thalia. 

4. .Euterpe. 

5. Terpsichore, 
fi. Erato. 

7. Polyhymnia. 

8. Urania. 

9. Calliope. 

NORTHWEST PAVILION. 

Paintings by R. L. Dodge. 



LIBKAEY OF CONGRESS. 

IT 



43 




MAIX ENTRANCE HALL. 

Paintiiifrs 1iy Walter Sliirlaw. 

1. Aiclieology. 

2. Botany. 

3. Astronomy. 

4. Clicmistry. 
"i. Gpologv. 

R. Mathematics. 

7. Physics. 

8. Zoology. 

Paintings hy George R. Barsc, Jr. 

1. Lvrica. 

2. Tragedy. 

3. Comedy. 

4. History. 

5. Erotica. 

fi. Tradition. 

7. Taney. 

8. Komance. 

Paintings by William A. Mackay. 

9. Atropos. 
10 I.achesis. 
11. Clotho. 

Paintings by Robert Rcid. 

1. Taste. 

2. Sight. 

3. Smell. 

4. Hearing. 
a. Toueii. 
fi. Wisdom. 

7. Understanding. 

5. Knowledge. 
9. Philosophy. 

Paintings bv F. W. P.enson. 

1. Spring. 

2. Summer. 

3. Autumn. 

4. Winter. 

5. Aglaia. 

6. Tlialia. 

7. Euphrosyne. 



SECOND STORY PLAN. 

Second Story- 

Pompeiian Panels by G. W. May- 
nard. 

A Fortitude. 

B Justice. 

(; Concordia. 

D Industry. 

E Patriotism. 

F Courage. 

Vr Temperance. 

II Prudence. 
Paintings by W. B. Van Ingen. 

1. L' Allegro. 

2. II PenseroRO. 
Mosaic by Ellhu Vedder. 

3. Minerva. 

CORKIDOn LEADING SOTITn FROM 
MAIN ENTRANCE UALL. 

Paintings bv Kenyon Cox. 

1. The Sciences. 

2. The Arts. 

SOfTlIWEST PAVILION. 

Paintings by G. W. Mayuard. 

1. Adventure. 

2. Discovery. 

3. Conquest. 

4. Civilization. 

fi. Courage — Valor— Forti- 
tude— Achievement. 
Medallions by Bela h. Pratt. 
.\ Seed. 
B Bloom. 
(! Fruit. 
D Decay. 

SOUTHEAST PAVILION. 

Paintings bv R. L. Dodge. 

1. Earth. 

2. Water 

3. Fire. 

4. Air. 



Painting by Elmer E. Garnsey . 

.5. Ceiling Disc. 
Medallions by liela L. Pratt. 

A Ver. 

B Aestas. 

C Auctumnus. 

I) Hiems. 

CORRIDOR LEADING NORTH FROM 
MAIN ENTRANCE HALL. 

Paintings by Gari Jlelchers. 

1. War. 

2. Peace. 

NORTHWEST PAVILION. 

Paintings bv William de L. Dodge. 

1. Seienct. 

2. Art. 

3. Music. 

I. Literature. 

.1. Ambition. 
Medallions bv Bela L. Pratt. 

.\ Spring. 

P. Summer. 

C Autumn. 

I) Winter. 

NORTHEAST PAVILION. 

Paintings by AV. B. Van Ingen. 

1. Agrleullure and Interior 

DeparlMients. 

2. War and Nav v Depart ments 

3. Justice and Post Olliee De- 

parlinents. 

4. Treasury and State Depart- 

ments. 
Painting bv Elmer E. Garnsey. 

5. Ceiling Disc. 
Medallions by Bela L. Pratt. 

A Spring. 

B Summer. 

C Autumn. 

D Winter. 




"MINERVA."— Marble Mosaic by Elihu Vedder. 



III. 



THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 



The Library of Congress, 
which originated with the 
purchase in 
London in Origin Of 

1802 of some Library. 

3,000 books 

of reference, was used as 
kindling material by the 
vandals who gleefully 
burned the Capitol and its 
records in 1814. A new 
foundation was laid by the 
purchase of Thomas Jeffer- 
son's private library, and in 
1851 the collection had in- 
creased to 60,000 volumes, 
when half of it, or more, 
was again swept away by 
tire. After this damage 
was repaired by the recon- 
struction of the western 
front of the Capitol, the 
growth was rapid, and the 
shelf-room speedily over- 
flowed. 

The arrangement by 
which the library received 
and continues to receive all 
the publications acquired 
by the Smithsonian system 
of international exchanges, 
the Peter Force* and Doc- 
tor Toner historical collec- 
tions of rare books, pam- 
phlets, engravings, etc., and the steady accumulations under the action of the copy- 
right law have been the principal nuclei. Congress was very liberal to the library in 
its earlier days, and now makes large annual appropriations for its support. It now 
contains over 1,000,000 books and pamphlets alone, and nearly half a million pieces 
of music, maps, prints, photographs, manuscripts, etc. 




BRONZE DOOR "TRADITION."— Mam Entrance. 
By Olin L. Warner. 



* Peter Force was bom in 1790, became a iM-ominent printer in New York, and settled in M'ash- 
ington in 1812, where he died in 1808, after a useful life as printer, editor, and publici-st. He collected 
an immense amount of material for a documentary history of the American colonies and Kevolution, 
of which nine volumes were published. His collection of documents, manuscripts, pamphlets, pictures, 
etc., was bought by the Government for $100,000. 



46 



46 PICTOEIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 

This collection is very rich in history, political science, jurisprudence, and books 
pamphlets, and periodicals of American publication, or relating in any way to America 
At the same time the library is a universal one in its range, no depart- 
Treasures. ment of literature or science being unrepresented. The public are privi- 
leged to use the books within the library rooms, while members of Con- 
gress and about thirty officials of the Government only may take them away. The 
library is open every day (Sundays excepted), from 9 o'clock in the morning until 10 
o'clock at night, and the evening is an exceedingly favorable time to see it. 

As long ago as 1872 efforts were made to provide the library with a separate build- 
ing ; but it was not until 1897 that this laudable purpose was accomplished. The fact 
•hat the Librarian has charge (since 1870) of the copyright business of the Government, 
md that this library is given and compelled to receive two copies of every book, picture, 
or other article copyrighted, makes its growth as rapid and steady as the progress of the 
American press, and enforces the need for ample space. Innumerable difficulties and 
chimerical schemes were overcome before Congress at last purchased — by condemna- 
tion, for it was covered with dwelling-houses — the present site (ten acres, east of the 
Capitol grounds) for a new Library of Congress, paying $585,000 for the property. 
Work was begun in 1886, but not much was accomplished until 1888-9, when the work 
was placed in the hands of Gen. T. L. Casey, Chief of Engineers, U. S. A., under whose 
charge, and the superintendence of Bernard R. Green, C. E., the magnificent edifice was 
perfected in 1897. The architectural plans, originally by J. J. Smithmeyer and Paul J. 
Pelz, were modified later by E. P. Casey, who completed the building and its decora- 
tion. As to the interior, Mr. Casey was assisted by Elmer E. Garnsey, in charge of the 
color decorations, and by Albert Weiuert as to the stucco work ; both gentlemen should 
receive credit for much beautiful unsigned work. 

The style is Italian renaissance modified ; and the result is one of the noblest edifices 
externally, and the most artistic one inside, of all the grand buildings at the Capitol. Its 
ground plan is an oblong square, inclosing four courts and a rotunda. 
ArchiteC- its outside dimensions are 470 by 340 feet, and it covers three and three- 

ture and quarters acres of ground. The material is Concord (N. H.) granite, 

Style. exteriorly, and enameled brick within the courts, while the framework is 

of steel, and the walls interiorly are encased and decorated wholly by 
stucco and marble. The octagonal rotunda, lighted by the four courts, is built of gray 
Maryland granite, and crowned by a roof-dome of copper, the dome heavily gilded, and 
trrminating, 195 feet above the ground, in a gilded torch of Learning. The general 
effect of such a building is of massiveness disproportionate to height, but this is relieved 
by " pavilions" at the corners, by elaborate entrances, numerous windows, and the high 
ornamentation of the exterior cornices, window-casings, etc. 

The decorations are wholly the work of American architects, painters. 
Decorations, and sculptors, more than fifty of whom i)articipated in the work; so that 
,. ;, the library is an exhibit and memorial of the native art and ability of 

ISie citizens of the United States. 

Approaches, Kntraiice, and Vestibule. 

The Approaches and Entrance to the library are on the western front, facing 
the Capitol, where a grand staircase leads up to doorways of the central pavilion 
admitting one upon the main floor. 

The basement may be entered by a door beneath this staircase, and an 
Entrance. elevator will be found by which the visitor may ascend to the top of 

the building ; but the most interesting and proper approach is by 
ascending the grand staircase to the main entrance. 




ROTUNDA OF PUBLIC READING-ROOM. 



50 



PICTOEIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 




GRAND STAIRCASE.— Main Entrance Ha 



A survey of the fa9ade should be made before doing so, not only to gain a general idea 
of the architecture, but especially to note the ethnological heads carved upon 
the keystones of the thirty-three arched windows, since these are a novel 
Racial innovation upon the gorgons, etc., usually employed in such places. 

Heads. These heads are studied and accurate types of the principal races of man- 

kind, modeled by H. J. Ellicott and Wm. Boyd, under the criticism of 
Prof. O. T. Mason of the National Museum ; they are as important as they are novel, and 
are grouped according to kinship. 

The first thing to attract attention, however, is the fountain, on the street front of 
the staircase, which was designed by R. H. Perry and is the most elaborate thing of its 
kind in the country. Its broad semicircular basin contains a dozen bronze 
Perry figures grouped upon natural rocks half hidden in niches of the terrace, 

rountatn. representing a group of Tritons and creatures of the sea attendant upon 

Neptune, the presiding genivis of the sea-world. From their mouths 
or from the "wreathed horns " they are blowing spout jets of water. The central 
figure is a colossal image of the kingly old sea-god, and on each side sea-nymphs bestrid- 
ing spirited sea-horses are heralding his glory. Sea serpents, turtles, and other denizens 
of the deep play about his feet and throw cross-lines of water that catch the sunlight at 
every angle. 

Passing up the flights of bi'oad granite steps, we see that the front of the central 
pavilion consists of three entrance arches, surmounted by a portico, and against its cir- 
cular upper windows are placed nine portico busts of great literati, as 
Portico. follows, beginning on the left : Demosthenes, Scott, Dante (by Herbert 

Adams), Goethe, Franklin, Maeaulay (by F. W. Ruckstuhl), Emerson, 
Irving, Uawthorne (by J. Scott Hartley). The balustrades bear splendid bronze candel- 



THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 51 

abra, modeled by Bela L. Pratt, which illuniinute the wtairwiiy at night ; aud tlic same 
sculptor modeled the fine carvings over the three entrance arches, in which Litcnitare, 
Science, and Art (reading, as always in this l)ook, from left to right) typified by pairs of 
life-size figures leaning against the curve of the arches, and accompanied by appro- 
priate symbols — a writing tablet and a book, the torch of knowledge anil a globe, and 
the mallet of sculpture and palette and brush of painting, respectively. 
The bronze doors within the entrance arches admit us to the main BronzC 

entrance hall of the Library. These doors are worthy of study, and DoOfS. 

together embody the development of recorded knowledge from prehistoric 
oral tradition and bardic tales to the modern preservation of history and science by 
printing. 

The first door, at the left, means Tradilion, and its tympanum was modeled by tac 
late Olin T. Warner, in a manner suggesting a wise woman of prehistoric times relating 
the traditions of her ancestors to an eager child. Among her auditors are an American 
Indian (whose face is that of Joseph, chief of the Nez Perc(^s), a Norseman, a man of 
the stone age, and a shepherd, representative of the pastoral races. Imagination and 
Memory are depicted in the panels on the left and right valves of the door itself. 

With a similar idea Mr. Warner also figured a woman, over his door at the right, 
teaching children the Art of Writing, while the four peoples of the world — Egyptian, 
Jew, Christian, and Greek — whose literatures have been most influential, are typified in 
attentive figures. On the double door are Research at the left, and Truth, with sym- 
bolic mirror and serpent at the right. This door was unfinished at the time of Mr. 
Warner's death and was completed by Adams. 

In the tympanum of the central door, by Frederick ]\Iacmonnies, is typified the Art 
of Printing. Minerva, goddess of learning, is sending books to the Avorld l)}'her winged 
messengers; while Pegasus, the embodiment of poetry, and the filial stork andemblemsof 
the printer's art {nrfi typographic^) are seen at the left and right. The female figures 
upon the double door stand for The Humanities and Intellect. 

These doors admit the visitor to a corridor stretching along the west front of the 
pavilion, forming a vestibule. This extends between piers of Italian marble support- 
ing arches, against which, on heavy brackets, are repeated pairs of figures, 
almost detached from the wail — Minerva in War, and Minerva in Peace, Vestibule. 

the former bearing a sword and torch, the latter a scroll and globe. The 
electric lamp stan<lard Ijetween them is a Greek altar. These figures were modeled liy 
Herl)ert Adams, aud are justly among the most admired ornaments in the whole edifice. 
Like the elaborate ceiling, and all other ornaments here, they are modeled in stucco, 
which is lavishly touched with gold. 

Main Entrance Hall. 

Passing on through the screen of arches one enters the Main Entrance Hall. This is a 
vast square well, occupying the center of the rectangular pavilion, and containing the mag- 
nificent stairways that lead to the second floor and to the rotunda gallery. 
Its floor is a lovely mosaic of colored marbles, surrounding a brass- IMain 

rayed disk showing the points of the compass ; and this floor, as else- Entrance 

where, is made to harmonize in design and tint with the remainder of the Hall. 

decoration. The farther ((,'astern) wall is broken by a noble Ionic door- 
way, forming a sort of triumphal arch, whose entablature is inscribed with the 
names of the builders ; it admits, l)y a passage described elsewhere, to th(! Public 
Reading-room, and the carved figures (by Warner) on its arch personify Study — on 
the left a youth eager to learn, on the right an aged man contemplating the fruits of 
knowledge. 



62 PICTOEIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 

Overhead, the hall is open to the roof, seventy-two feet above, w^here richly tinted 
skylights pour a flood of sunshine dovrn upon the shimmering surfaces, giving 

an ethereal lightness and beauty to the really massive architecture that is 
Martiny peculiarly effective and charming. Everything is white Italian marble, 

Sculptures. and lavishly adorned with sculpture, all the work of Philip Martiny. On 

either side rise the grand staircases, circling about elaborate newel-posts 
that support bronze light-bearers (also modeled by Martiny), and sloping upward beside 
piers whose arches are exquisitely adorned with rose wreaths and leafy branches. Each 
of the solid balustrades bears a procession of nude figures of infants, or elves, connected 
by garlands, and each representing by its symbols some art, industry, or idea. On the 
right (south) from the bottom up, go a Mechanician, a Hunter, Bacchus, a Farmer, a 
Fisherman, Mars, a Chemist, and a Cook ; on the left, a Gardener, a Naturalist, a 
Student, a Printer, a Musician, a Physician, an Electrician, and an Astronomer. Out- 
side of these, perched upon pilasters of the buttresses (one on each side), are charming 
groups illustrating the continents and their inhabitants by globes showing the Old 
World and the New, and their peoples. On the right, or south side of the hall, beside 
the map of Africa and America, sit two chubby boys — one in the feather headdress 
and other accouterments of an American Indian, and the other showing the dress and 
arms of an African. Opposite, beside their globe, are similar boys, personifying Asia, 
in Mongolian robes, and Europe, in classic gown surrounded by types of civilization 
indicating the pre-eminence of the Caucasian race in Architecture, Literature, and Music. 
Figures of children are also set in relief upon the balustrade of the top landing on each 
side, those above the south staircase signifying Comedy, Poetry, and Tragedy ; and 
those opposite. Painting, Architecture, and Sculpture. All of these little figures are 
accompanied by symbolic accessories, so that here, as usually elsewhere in this highly 
thoughtful scheme of decoration, close study is required to gain the full extent of the 
artist's meaning — study that will be rewarded by a perception of artistic harmony. 

The ceiling of the Main Entrance Hall is coved and elaborately ornamented 
Ceiling^. with carving and stucco work, among which are placed tablets bearing 

the names of illustrious authors, and a great number of symbols of the 
arts aud sciences. 

First Floor Halls and Corridors. 

Surrounding the Main Entrance Hall runs a rectangle of corridors or halls forming 
vaulted and richly adorned passageways around the interior of the first floor of the 
pavilion, and admitting to various rooms. They are paneled in white 
First Floor marble to the height of eleven feet ; their floors are laid in harmonious 
HallSo patterns of Italian white, Vermont blue, and Tennessee red-brown 

marbles, and their vaulted ceilings are covered with marble mosaics 
from cartoons by H. T Schladermundt, after designs by E. P. Casey. Hence these 
halls are sometimes called the mosaic vaults. Tablets bearing the names of literati, 
and various trophies, are also pleasingly introduced ; and at intervals upon the walls 
semicircular spaces or tympanums are utilized for some of the most brilliant and inter- 
esting paintings in the building. It would be well to make the circuit of these halls 
before going elsewhere. 

The West Hall is the Entrance Vestibule already described. 

The South Hall lies at the right of the south staircase, and is beautified by paintings 
(in oil on canvas, glued to the wall by a composition of white lead — as is the case with 
most of the other mural paintings here) by H. O. Walker, illustrating Lyric Poetry. 

The principal one is upon the large tympanum at the east end, and represents Lyric 
Poetry standing in a wood striking a lyre, and surrounded by Pathos, Truth (nude of 



THE LIBKARY OF CONGRESS. 



63 




'AMERICA AND AFRICA."— Detail of Grand Staircase. Philip Mart.ny, Sculptor. 




'EUROPE AND ASIA."— Detail uf Giand Staii^aie. Phiip Ma:t,i,y, Sculptor. 



54 



PICTOEIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 



course), Devotion, Beauty, aud playful Mirth. In the smaller spaces Mr. Walker 
has painted "flushed Ganymetle .... half buried in the eagle's 

Walker down," the Endymion of Keats' poem, lying on Mt. Patmos, under 

Painting^S. the glance of his lover Diana (the moon); The Boy, of Wordsworth's well- 
known poem; Emerson, as typified in his poem "Uriel"; Milton as 

suggested by "Comus," particularly the lines — 

Can any mortal mixture of earth's mold. 
Breathe such divine, enchanting ravishment? 

The next illustrates the "Adonis" of Shakspere; and a broad border of figures 
portraying Wordsworth's lines: 

The poets, who on earth have made us heirs 
Of truth and pure delight by heavenly laysl 

The names tableted on 
great lyric poets — 
Whittier, Bry 
and Foe (Am 
Browning- 
Byron, 




border are of the 

Longfellow, Lowell, 

fint. Whitman, 

V. erican), and 

^^ Slielley, 

^ ^ Musset, 




LYRIC POETRY.— Bv H. O. Walker. 



Hugo, Heine, Theocritus, Pindar, Anacreon, Sappho, Catullus, Horace, Petrarch, and 
Ronsard. 

At its east end this hall opens at right angles to the south, where a corridor extends 

along the interior of the building, looking out upon the southwest court to the 

reading-rooms reserved for Senators and Representatives, and also to 

IMcEwen the public reading-room or periodical room. This corridor was given to 

Paintings. Walter McEwen to decorate, and he chose subjects from Greek 

mythology. 

Each painting gives an incident characterizing a myth, as follows, from north to 
south: 1. Paris, who won Helen by giving the prize of beauty to Venus, sitting at 
her home and conversing with her father, Menelaus, King of Sparta, preparatory to 
taking Helen back with him to Troy. 

2. Jason recruiting his Argonauts for the voyage to recover the Golden Fleece, 
beneath which is inscribed: 

One equal temper of heroic hearts made weak by time and fate, 
But strong in will to strive, to seek, to find, and not to yield. 

3. BelleropJion accepting from Minerva the bridle for his winged horse Pegasus, by 
whose aid he is to slay the Chimajra. 

4. Orpheus slain by the Moenads, or priestesses of Bacchus, in one of their orgies, 
because he would not play upon his marvelous lyre hymns of praise to Bacchus. 

A glorious company, the flower of men to serve as model 
For the mighty world, and be the fair beginning of a time. 

5. Persetts turning to stone Polydctes and his court, by means of the head of the 
Gorgon Medusa. 



THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 



55 



6. Prometheus warning bis brother Epimetbeus against accepting tbc miscbievous 
Pandora from the gods; but tbe admonition was not heeded, Pandora's box was opened, 
and all the ills of the world let loose. The inscription is: 

To the souls of fire, I, Pallas Athena, give more fire; 
And to those who are manful, a might more than man's. 

7. Theseus, who bad killed the Minotaur and rescued Ariadne from Crete, is here 
about to desert her on tbe island of Naxon at the command of Minerva. 

8. Achilles discovered by Ulysses at the court of the King of Scyros, where he had 
been sent by his mother to grow up among the women in order to keep him from tbe 
dangers of war. Beneath it are the lines from Byron's "Cbilde Harold ": 

Ancient of days, august Athena, where are thy men of might, thy grand 
In soul? Gone — glimmering through the dream of things that were. 

9. Hereides in tbe guise of a woman spinning for Omphale, Queen of Lydia. 

The House Reading-room, opening from this corridor, is exclusively for the use 
of members of the House of Representatives. 

"N o apartment in tin liln v\\ umarks Mr. Herbert Small, "is more lavishly and 

sumptuously orna- 
mented. The floor 
is dark 

quar- Represent- 

tered atives' 

o a k ; Reading- 
t b e room. 

walls 

have a dado of 
heavy oak paneling 
about eleven feet 
high ; and tbe deep 
window arches are 
tini.sbed entirely in 
tbe same material. 
Above tbc dado tbe 
walls are bung with 
olive green silk. 
The ceiling is 
beamed and pan- 
eled, and is finished 
in gold and colors, 
with painted dec- 
orations in tbe pan- 
els, and encrusted 
conventional orna- 
ment in cream white 
long the beams. 
Over the three doors 
are carved oak tym- 
panums, by Mr. 
Charles H. Niebaus, 
comprising two de- 

MANTEL IN HOUSE READING-ROOM. signs — the first Of 

Mosaic Panel, " History," by Frederick Dielman. a Central CartOUCbC 




56 



PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 



bearing an owl, and supported on either side by the figure of a seated youth ; the 
other, the American Eagle flanked by two cherubs. At either end of the room is a 
magnificent mantel of Siena marble. Over the fireplace is a large mosaic panel by 
Mr. Frederick Dielman, representing at one end of the room, Law, and at the other. 
History. Above is a heavy cornice supported on beautiful columns of Pavanazzo 
marble, the general color of which is gray instead of yellow, but with a system of veining 
which agrees very well with that of the Siena. In the center of the cornice is a small 

cartouche of green 
onyx in the mantel 
to the south, and of 
labradorite or lab- 
rador spar in the 
other, the latter 
stone being re- 
markable for its ex- 
quisite gradations 
of deep peacock 
blue, continually 
changing with the 
light and the point 
from which it is 
seen." 

The mosaics 
above the fire- 
places, from car- 
toons by Dielman, 
were made in Ven- 
ice, and are super- 
ior examples of this 
exquisite and 
peculiar art whose 
home is in northern 
Italy. They should 
be contemplated 
thoughtfully. The 
ceiling paintings, 
]iy Carl Gutherz, 
filling seven panels, 
should also be close- 
ly studied, begin- 
nini2- with the cen- 




MANTEL IN SENATE READING-ROOM.— Panel oy Herbert Adams. 



tral one. The scries idealizes the Spcctrnm of Hunlight. In the center is the first, yellow 
— the Creation of Light ; second, next north, orange — the Light of Intelligence ; third, 
red — the Light of Poetry; fourth, violet — Light of State, the United States being 
regarded as embodying the highest expression of government, and suitably represented 
by the violet color, which is formed by a combination of red, white, and blue ; next in 
order (south of the center) follow green — Eesearch ; blue — Truth; and indigo — 
Science. The cherubs in the corner of each panel typify attributes of each subject. 

The Senators' Reading-room, at the end of the corridor, fills the corner room of the 
building, or Southwest Pavilion, and is another lavishly decorated and furnished apart- 
ment, as sumptuous as, but somewhat less gaudy than, the reading-room of the House. 



THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 



57 




THE EVOLUTION OF THE BOOK.— By J. W. Alexander. East Corridor. 

It is reserved for Senators. The walls are of oak, inlaid with arabesques, Senators* 

above which are hangings of red figured silk, while the ornamented Reading- 
ceiling is gold, relieved by deep red. A carved panel over the door (by fOOm. 
Adams), and 'a series of figures (by W. A. Mackay), bearing garlands, 
gracefully enliven the golden ceiling. This room is visible only as a special privilege. 

The Periodical or Public Reading-room occupies the great hall along the south side 
of the building and is entered from this curtain corridor. It is finished in restful sim- 
plicity, and contains a large series of newspapers from all parts of the 
Union and from many foreign countries, and an unrivaled series of Periodical 
weekly and monthly periodicals. This room and all its periodicals are Reading- 
open to the public, without any formality, and one may choose what he rOOm. 
will and sit and read as long as he likes. 

Returning to the Main Entrance Hall, the next part to be examined is the East Hall,* 
in the rear of the staircases, in which are John W. Alexander's paintings, entitled The 
Evolution of the Book, a theme treated with great intelligence and force. 
The series begins at the south end of the nail with the erection of the Alexander 
Cairn— the rudest means prehistoric men took to commemorate an event Paintings. 
or transmit the knowledge of something. The next picture illustrates 
Oral Tradition— an Arab story-teller of the desert. The third represeuto an Egyptian 
carver of hieroglyphics, at work upon a tomb, while a young girl watches him. These 
three are the forerunners of the Book, the later developments of which are depicted oppo- 




THE EVOLUTION OF THE BOOK.— By J. W. Alexander. East Corridor. 



* A ladies' toilet-room will be found at ite southern end. 



08 



PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 



site. Picture-writing, the first step above carved liieroglyphics, is illustrated by an 
American Indian painting some tribal record upon a skin ; the next advance is shown by 
the figure of a monk, sitting by the window of his cell, laboriously illuminating some 
sacred book in the days of the Middle Ages ; and lastly the rise of modern methods 
appears in a scene in the shop of Gutenberg, the first printer, who stands examining a 
proof sheet, while an assistant looks on and an apprentice works the lever of a primitive 
hand press. These are among the most popularly interesting pictures in the library, and 
are accompanied by the names of Ainericans (all born in the United States) distinguished 
in arts and sciences, the specialty of each two denoted by trophies. On the pendentives 
of the ceiling are inscribed Latrobe and Walter (architecture) ; Cooke and Silliman (natural 
philo.sophy) ; Mason and Gottschalk (music) ; Stuart and AUston (painting) ; Powers and 
Crawford (sculpture) ; Bond and Rittenhouse (astronomy) ; Francis and Stevens (engi- 



neering) ; Emerson and 
Dana (natural science) 
(mathematics). In 
vault are writ 
of o t h e 
eminent 



Holmes (poetry) ; Say and 

Pierce and Bowditch 

the mosaic of the 

ten the names 

Americans 




GOOD ADMINIbTRATION. - By Elilm Vedder. 

professions: Medicine — Cross, Wood, McDowell, Rush, and Warren ; Theology — 
Brooks, Edwards, Mather, Channing, Beecher ; Law — Curtis, Webster, Hamilton, 
Kent, Pinkney, Shaw, Taney, Marshall, Story, and Gibson. * 

The entrance to the reading-room in the Rotunda leads from this East 
Rotunda Hall, through a vestibule (where also is the elevator), adorned in its 

Entrance. five tympanums with an impressive series of allegorical paintings by 

Elihu Vedder, embodying the idea of government in a manner that has 
aroused the highest admiration of all artists, and conveys food for deep thought. 

The central painting over the reading-room door is a conception of republican Gov- 
ernment in its noblest estate. That upon its right exhibits how good administration 

(the first) leads to peace and prosperity (the second); contrasted with and 
Vedder opposite these are two vivid paintings portraying Corrupt Legislation, 

Paintings. resulting in Anarchy. Careful study of these pictures will bring out an 

instructive comprehension of how wide and subtle was the artist's 
thought in regard to each. Thus the ideal of government is typified in the figure 
of a grave-faced woman who sits upon a stable throne beneath the shade of the steadfast 
oak ; the bridle held by one of the attendant youths signifies the restraint of law, the 
books of the other the requirement of intelligence in the citizen. Corrupt Lcgidation 



* It should be remarked tbat almost no names of living men are inscribed upon the walls of the 
library. 



THE LIBEAEY OF CONGRESS. 



59 



exhibits a woman of careless and corrupt mien, sitting upon a throne whose arms are 
cornucopias of money. She rejects the appeal of her poverty-stricken subjects for help, 
and in place of the even balance of justice holds a sliding scale that will easily lend 
itself to bribery — indicated by the bag of gold a rich man is placing in its pan. The 
voting urn is overturned, spilling its neglected ballots, and wealth is piled at the foot of 
the throne. In the background the factories of the rich are active and prosperous, 
while opposite the industries of the poor are idle. Anarchy is the result of such govern- 
ment, and is represented raving with torch and wine cup upon the ruins of the State 
On the other hand. Good Administration is a benign, yet powerful personage, sitting 
upon a seat whose solidity is typified by the arch at its back, dispensing even justice. 
At her right, a figure winnows grain above a voting urn, selecting carefully the wheat 
(good men) from the chaff in the filling of public offices ; while at her left, an educated 
citizenship confirms such ^^^a^HB^^^B^^^^ choice by the ballot. The 
beneficent sequel to ^^^^I^HH^^I^^^H^^^^^^ t^>^< 
'perity, is dis 
of tbe series, 
agriculture 
der gov 
foster- 
care. 



Peace and Pros- 
played in the last 
where arts and 
flourish un- 
rnmeut's 
i ng 




GOVERNMENT.— By Elihu Vedder. 

Passing on, now, to the North Hall, the marble stairway descending to the basement 
and the door of the Librarian's room are first encountered. The 
Librarian's office is a cozy, luxuriously furnished apartment, forming the Librarian's 
private office of the Librarian of Congress ; it is finished in oak and Office. 

extiuisitely decorated by Mr. Holslag and Mr. Weinert, the prevailing 
tone of color being a delicate green. This room is not open to those who have no 
particular business with the Librarian. 

The North Hall is opposite the south one, or at the left of the Pearce 

staircases as one enters the front door, and contains a series of seven Paintings. 
wall paintings, by Charles S. Pearce, representing the occupations of the 
civilized mind. The most important fills the great panel at the east end, and depicts 
an idealization of The Family, tinder such circumstances as the poets imagine exist in 
Arcadia. The father has returned from hunting, and the mother holds out the baby for hia 
greeting, while other children and the aged parents cease their occupations to join 
in the welcome. On the south wall is one picture only — Rest; while opposite, read- 
ing from left to right, are four, entitled: Religion, Labor, Study, Recreation. An 
exquisite border at the end presents artistically an apothegm of Confucius: "Give 
instruction unto those wlio can not procure it for themselves." The whole idea is 
of a quiet, rational, uplifted manner of life, and the names accompanying these 
scenes are those of the great educators of the world — Froebel. Pestalozzi, Rousseau, 
Comenius, Ascham, Howe, Gallaudet, Mann, Arnold, and Spencer. 



60 PICTOEIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTOIST. 

The corridor extending from the east end of this hall to the Northwest Pavilion 
is richly decorated by a series of idealizations of the Muses, seated figures painted with 

singular brightness of color and interest of composition, by Edward 
Simmons' Simmons. Beginning at the south end, over the entrance door is : 
*' IMtlses.** 1. Melpomene, muse of tragedy, enveloped in a swirl of red drapery. 

2. Clio, muse of history, with a helmet signifying heroic deeds. 3. 
Thalia, muse of comedy and gay pleasure, beside whom dances a little satyr with Pan's 
pipes, and who has Pope's lines : 

Descend, ye Nine, descend and sing ; 
Wake into voice each silenl string. 

4. Euterpe, muse of lyric poetry, the patroness of the song, as suggested by the 
flute. 5. Terpsichore, muse of the choral dance, who strikes the rhythmic cymbals. 
Beneath her is the couplet : 

Oh, Heaven-born sisters, source of art. 

Who cliarm the sense or mend the heart. 

6. Eraio, muse of love poetry, is nude and has a white rose, 7. Polyhymnia, muse 
of sacred song, holds an open book ; and beneath is written the third of Pope's coup- 
lets : 

Say, vi\\\ you bless the bleak Atlantic shore. 

And in the West bid Athens rise once more I 

8. Urania shows herself muse of astronomy by her instruments. 9. Calliope, muse 
of epic poetry and eloquence, is symbolized by a scroll and peacock feathers. 

The Northwest Pavilion, to which this corridor leads, is finished 
Dodge's Pom- in a prevailing tone of Pompeiian red, decorated in panels by floating 
pdian Dan- figures of Roman dancing girls drawn by R. L. Dodge. Pompeiian bor- 
tiilg Girls. ders, and a series of signs of the zodiac, placed in the six window bays 
by Mr. Thompson, complete the mural decorations. 
From this pavilion one enters the large hall on the north side of the building, corre- 
sponding to the Newspaper and Periodical Room, which is devoted to the storage, con- 
sultation, and exhibition of maps, charts, and geographical things generally. 
Map-room. The library possesses an enormous collection of these, and is bringing 
them together as rapidly as possible, and preparing proper furniture and 
cases for this extensive and beautiful room, so that the maps and charts may readily be 
made use of by students, and so that the most interesting among them may be put 
upon public exhibition. 

Second Story Rooms and Corridors. 

Some of the finest parts of the library are in the second story Ascending the stair- 
cases you find yourself in abroad arcade surrounding the hall. This is all in white 
marble of the same Corinthian style. Lofty coupled columns, with elabo. 
Corinthian rate acanthus capitals, support joint entablatures, whence spring the 
Arcades. groined arches of the ceiling. North and south doorways admit to 

magnificent exhibition halls ; the west windows open upon a balcony 
overlooking the Capitol grounds and a large part of the city, and on the east a beauti- 
ful stairway leads to the uppermost galleries of the Rotunda. 

A long time may be spent in admiring study of this superb hall, whose details are 
elaborate in every particular, varying constantly in small points of ornamentation, yet 
ever consonant with the classic model, and keeping an artistic uniformity without 
monotony. The ornamentation of the ceilings, composed of stucco in high relief set off 
with gold on the eminences and bright color in the recesses, is also admirable, and 
becomes very striking when applied to the vaulted canopies of the great side halls. The 



THE LIBKAEY OF CONGRESS. 



61 




THE FAMILY.— By Charles Sprague Pearce. 

decoration in relief here is all the work of Mr. Martiny, and consists mainly of little 
figures (geniuses), exemplifying various conceptions and pursuits indicated by conven- 
tional symbols, such as the shepherd's crook and pipes for Pastoral Life or Arcady, a block 
of paper and a compass for Architecture, and so on ; also many cartouches and tablets 
bearing the names of illustrious authors. 

Here the spaces surrounding the well of the staircases are spoken of as corridors, of 
which there are four — North, South, East, and West — each decorated with brush or 
chisel by some special artist under a harmonious plan. Certain features are continued 
from one to the other, unifjing them. The floors of all are mosaics, but the patterns 
vary. The ceilings are alike, barrel vaults with pendentives, the ornamentation of 
which is similar yet varied, while to each is assigned a special orna- 
mentation in paintings. The color scheme was suggested by that of the CorridOfS. 
greatly admired library at Siena, Italy. The colors employed are alike 
in similar parts throughout, and a uniform arrangement of the minor decorations, 
trophies, name-tablets, spaces for mottoes, etc., makes the whole design coherent, while 
admitting of constant local diversity. The motive is renaissance. 

Each corner of the rectangle of corridors is brilliant with two Pompeiian panels, 
bearing the floating figures painted by George W. Maynard to express the 
virtues. There are eight in all, and it will suffice to name and localize Fompeiian 
them. Beginning at the left in each case they are: At the northwest Panels. 

corner Industry and Concord; at the southwest corner Temperance and 
Prudence; at the southeast corner Patriotism and Courage; at the northeast corner 
Fortitude and Justice. 

Another of the constant similarities is the series of Printers' Marks, which run 
around the whole circle of the scheme, in the penetrations between the pendentives of 
the ceiling. They are the "engraved devices which the old printers 
used in the title-page or colophon of their books, partly as a kind of Printers* 

informal trade-mark guarding against counterfeited editions, and partly .Marks. 

as a personal emblem." Similar marks have been adopted by many 
modern publishers, and these are represented as well as the old ones. It would require 
a long time to describe each one of the fifty-six here shown, but they arc worth careful 
examination, and some are artistic and beautiful, while others are highly fanciful or 
whimsical, containing a pun on the printer's name, or an indication of some legend. 
These marks are drawn in black, and are enclosed in varying ornamental devices. 

The North Corridor contains the brilliant paintings of Robert Reid on the north wall 
and in the vault. For the former purpose he was given four circular panels, which he has 



62 



PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 



filled with compositions entitled Wisdom, Understanding, Knowledge, and Philosophy, are 
also by Mr. Reid, and the subjects are typified by women of rather more 
Reid serious mien, who are distinguished by easily understood symbols, the 

Painting^S> Greek temple in the background of the last picture reminding the ob- 
server that philosophy began among the Greeks. 
The same artist has taken the Five Senses as his theme for the ceiling pictures, 
occupying octagonal spaces in the arabesque design of the vault. Taste, Sight, Smell, 
Hearing, and Touch are represented in order from west to east, by delightfully composed 
figures of young women that seem to be supported upon cloud banks in the sky. Taste 
is surrounded by the foliage and fruit of the grape and is drinking from a shell. Sight 
smiles at her image in a hand mirror (as well she may) and beside her is a gorgeous pea- 
cock. Smell is ensconced in flowers and inhales the perfume of a rose. Hearing prettily 
listens to the roaring of a seashell held to her ear by graceful hands. Ttuch, beside 
whom sleeps a setter dog, is holding herself quiet and feeling the titillation made by the 
butterfly that walks along her bare arm. 

But these are only the centerpieces of this highly embellished ceiling. Small rec- 
tangles are filled with sketchy drawings illustrating in a classic style the games and rec- 
reations of ancient times — Throwing the Discus, Wrestling, Running, 
Ancient The Finish, The Wreath of Victory, and The Triumphal Return — in 

Games. order. In addition to these are the Printers' Marks, here of American 

and British publishers, and a long series of trophies of science and 
industry contained in medallions. Geometry is marked by a scroll, compass, etc. ; Meteor- 
ology, by the barometer, thermometer, etc. ; Forestry, by axe and pruning knife ; 
Navigation, by sailors' implements ; Transjiortation, by propeller, piston, 
Trophies. headlight, etc. Above the west window are the two faces of the Great 

Seal of the United States, and two of R. H. Perry's Sybils, sculptured in 
low relief, these two being Greek and Oriental. The former (the Delphic Oracle) dic- 
tates her prophecies to an aged scribe ; the latter (a veiled or occult per- 
Perry's son) tetters them to prostrate adorers. 

Sybils. Mr. Maynard's Pompeiian panels contain, at the east end, Fortitude and 

Justice ; at the west end, Industry and Concord. 




COURAGE. 



FORTITUDE. JUSTICE. 

Pompeiian Panels, by G. W. Maynard. 



PATRIOTISM. 



THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 63 

Many inscriptions are written. Those in panels over doors and -wir.r jws are : 
The chief glory of every people arises from its authors.— Dr. JoJuison. 
There is oue only good, namely, knowledge, and one only evil, namely, ignorance.— 5ocra?es. 
Knowledge comes, but wisdom lingers.— Tennyson. 

.Visdoni is the principal thing; therefore get wisdom; and with all thy getting get understanding. 

Proi'erbs iv: 7. 
Ignorance is the curse of God, 
Knowledge the wing wherewith we fly to Heaven. -67ioA:spere — 2 Henry VT. 
How charming is Divine Philosophy. — Milton. 
Books must follow sciences and not sciences books. — Bacon. 
In books lies the soul of the whole past time.— Carlyle. 
Words are also actions and actions are a kind of words. — Emerson. 
Reading maketh a full man, conference a ready man, and writing an exact man. — Bacon. 
Tlie ceiling inscriptions are from Adelaide Proctor's "Unexpressed" : 

Dwells within the soul of every Artist No real Poet ever wove in numbers 

More than all his effort can express. All his dreams. 

No great thinker ever lived and taught you Love and Life united 

All the wonder that his soul received. Are twin mysteries, different, yet the same. 

No true painter ever set on canvas Love may strive, but vain is the endeavor 

All the glorious vision he conceived. Ail its boundless riches to unfold. 

No musician, Art and Love speak; but their words must be 

But he sure be heard, and strove to render, Like sighings of illimitable forests. 

Feeble echoes of celestial strains. 

In the border of the arch over the west window : 

Order is Heaven's first law. 

Memory is the treasurer and guardian of all things. 

Beauty is the creator of the universe. 

Opening from this north corridor is the great exhibition hall, occupying the whole 
breadth of this part of the building and looking out toward the Capitol on one side 
and into one of the courts (with a good view of the north book-stack) on the other. 
The ceiling is an elliptical barrel vault, twenty-nine feet above the floor, divided by 
double ribs springing from pilasters, and set, as elsewhere, with square coffers of 
stucco colored red and gold. Red, indeed, is the prevailing color here, emphasizing 
the arabesques on the walls and adapting itself to the theme of decoration, as does the 
blue of the corresponding exhibition hall on the south. 

The special decorations consist of two great wall paintings filling the arched ends of 
the hall above the doors, where spaces 34 feet long by 93^ feet high form the fields for 
single compositions by Gari Melchers — War and Peace. W(ir, at the 
north end of the gallery, confronts the spectator as he enters. A triumph- i^lelchcrs' 
ant, laurel-crowned chief of fighting men of some primitive time and " War and 
place is leading home his victorious band, the " dogs of war " straining Peace." 

at the leash in advance. A herald blows a poean of victory, but the 
horsemen ride over bodies of the slain, weak men fall by the wayside, and in the very 
foreground of the scene their own los.ses are suggested in the dead captain borne home- 
ward. Thus the dread as well as the glory of war is depicted. 

Peace is the subjec.of the painting at the opposite (south) end, and it is equally bold in 
conception, drawing, and color. The time and scene, as before, are carried back to that 
prehistoric state of society which is regarded by the poets as Arcadian in its simplicity 
and virtue. With no fear of hostile interruption or anxiety of mind, the inhabitants of 
a village have come in religious procession to a grove wherein resides their tutelary deity, 
whose image they are reverently bearing; and while the priest chants a litany they bring 
forward the supplicatory gifts or the thank-offerings each means to lay at the feet of the 
goddess. The fattened ox may be meant for a sacrifice, but it is also a suggestion of 
rural prosperity and feasting. 



PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 



The names inscribed here are those of the world's most famous soldiers: 
Wellington, Washington, Charles Martel, Cyrus, Alexander, Hanni- 
bal, Caesar, Charlemagne, Napoleon, Jackson, Sheridan, Grant, 
Sherman, William the Conqueror, Frederick the Great, Eugene, 
Marlborough, Nelson, Scott, Farragut. 

This hall is devoted to an exhibition, in glass table-cases, 
of a great number of rare and curious books representing 
the beginnings of printing and bookmaking, especially 
as relates to North American discovery and history. 
The display of early printed Bibles and missals, and 
specimens of famous special editions of Bibles, is / 

also large. A great number of these 
Early Books, prints go back to the fifteenth cen- 
tury, and some of them are of 
great value on account of their extreme rarity. 
All are laid open, usually at the title-page, and 
can be examined as closely as is possible with- 
out taking them in one's hand. This collection 
is added to and changed from time to time as 
new books of curious interest are acquired. 

The northern door of this hall 
Northwest opens into the Northwest 
Pavilion. Pavilion, occupying the 

northwestern corner of the 
library. This room is among the most beau- 
tiful in the building. The ceiling is richly 
coffered, colored, and gilded around a central 
dome occupied by a painting. The walls j 
are broken by pillars, and are ornamented 1 
with stucco work, including a series of four 

carvings, one in each of the \ 
Pratt's pendentives, which delicately 

*' Seasons." represent the Seasons, and are 
from models by B. L. Pratt. 
These are repeated in the three other corner 
pavilions, as are the general features of decora- 
tion, while the frescoes are individualized. 

The special artist whose work is seen in this 
pavilion is William de L. Dodge, who has made 
Ambition the subject of his painting in the dome, 
and has filled the four tympanums of the walls with 
allegorical scenes, remarkable for the number of 
figures they include. The dome picture represents •,, 
the summit of a mountain which may be called Success, 
to which have climbed a series of persons along the 

various paths, noble and ignoble, of human 
W. de L. Dodg:e endeavor. The Unattainable Ideal leaps 
Painting^S. away into the air beyond their reach, never- 

theless, though trumpeting Fame clutches at 
bridle. The struggling crowd displays types of many forms of Ambi- 
tion, and a Jester stands one side and laughs at the useless strife. Mr. 




THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 65 

Dodge's wall paintings depict Music (north), Science (east), Art (south), and Literature 
(west). Each includes a group of figures about the presiding genius of their art, and 
illustrating clearlj- by their attitudes, occupations, or implements its characteristics 
and development. Thus in Music musicians, ancient and modern, are plajing before 
Apollo, the god of song and harmony. Science, an ideal winged figure before a 
temple, has summoned the representatives of Invention, and the scene is filled with 
suggestions of scientific discovery — Franklin's kite that began modern progress in 
electricity, a teakettle as a reminder of the origin of the idea of the steam engine, etc. 
Art displays the painter, the sculptor, and the architect at work. In Literature a 
graceful group illustrates education, the book, the drama, poetry, the fame that crowns 
the successful author, and so forth. 

Several large table-cases are placed in this room, containing manuscripts, autographs, 
and curious prints relating to the political history of the United States in great variety 
Many of these are proclamations, oliicers' commissions, and similar papers 
signed by Colonial Governors and early Presidents and statesmen. There Historic 

are also many letters, diaries, account books, etc., of statesmen and AutOSraphS 
leaders in the time of the Revolution, and of the more recent wars, and IMSS. 

including that with Spain, which resulted in the freeing cf the West 
Indies. Perhaps the most curious relic is a manuscript volume of the drawings of the 
United States lottery of 1779. 

The hall along the north side of the building, opening out of this pavilion, occupied 
by special collections, must be passed through in order to see the Northeast Pavilion. 

This pavilion, sometimes called the " Pavilion of the Seals," occupies the octagonal 
northeast corner of the building. Gilding prevails upon its walls and ceiling, and sets 
off the illustrative paintings of W. B. Van Ingen personifying the 
Executive Departments. The Treasury and State departments are typi- Northeast 
fied in the west tympanum ; the War and Navy in the south; Agriculture Pavilion. 

and Interior in the east; and Justice and the Post Office in the north. 
All of the details are symbolic and easily understood, except the cj-press trees, which 
are merely decorative, and stand in jars copied from those made by the Zuni Indians. 
The seals of the departments are cleverly introduced, and in the dome 
the great seal of the United States forms the center of an elaborate and Van Ingcn's 
beautiful circular painting by Garnsey, framed in an inscription from *' Seals." 

Lincoln's Gettysburg address: "That this nation, under God, shall 
have a new birth of freedom ; and that government of the people, by the people, for 
the people, shall not perish from the earth." Other sentiments inscribed here are : 

'Tis our true policy to steer clear of permanent alliance with any portion of the foreign world. 

— Washington. 

Let our object be our country, our whole country, and nothing but our country.— Webster. 

Thank God, I also am an American.— ire^s/er. 

Equal and exact justice to all men, of whatever state or persuasion, religious or political — peace, 
commerce, and honest friendship with all nations — entangling alliance with none.— Je^<;rso?i. 

The agricultural interest of the country is connected with every other, and supe- 
rior in importance to them all.— Jacitson. InSCriptiOnS* 

Let us have peace.— ffranf. 

The aggregate happiness of society is, or ought to be, the end of all government.— TroA/i/ngffon. 

To be prepared for war is one of the most effective means of preserving pe&ce.— Washington. 

The visitor may now return to the Main Entrance Hall and devote attention next to 
the West Corridor. This is immediately over the Entrance Vestibule, and has been dec- 
orated in a very interesting manner by Walter Shirlaw, who has found his motive in 
The Sciences. Says Mr. Small : 

5 



66 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 

" Each science is represented by a female figure about li feet in height. The figures 
are especially interesting, aside from their artistic merit, for the variety of symbolism 
by which every science is distinguished from the others, and for the 
Shirlaw subtlety with which much of this symbolism is expressed. Not only is 

Painting^S. each accompanied by various appropriate objects, but the lines of the 
drapery, the expression of the face and body, and the color itself, are, 
wherever practicable, made to subserve the idea of the science represented. Thus the 
predominant colors used in the figure of Chemistry — purple, blue, and red — are the 
ones which occur most often in chemical experimenting. ... In the matter of 
line, again, the visitor will notice a very marked difference between the abrupt, broken 
line used in the drapery of Archaeology, and the moving, flowing line in that of 
Physics." 

The list of these paintings, beginning on the west at the left, is as follows : Zoology, 
clad in a pelt, and with the lion of the desert beside her ; Physics, typifying and 
expressing in color and flowing form the reign of fire and electricity ; Mathematics is 
almost nude — the exact truth ; Oeology has gathered specimens and fossils from the 
rocks. On the east : Archaeology, in Roman costume, consults history, and has beside 
her a vase made by Zuni Indians; Botany seems analyzing a water lily; Astronomy 
suggests her study by globe and planet and the lens of a telescope, and Chemistry is 
accompanied by symbols of her investigations. 

Agreeably to this motive, the names of distinguished men of science are emblazoned 
upon the wall : Cuvier the zoologist, Rumford the physicist. La Grange the mathema- 
tician, Lyell the geologist, Schliemann the Greek archaeologist, Linnaeus the father of 
botany, Copernicus the astronomer, and Lavoisier the chemist. 

Three medallions in the ceiling are filled by W. B. Van Ingen with sketchy draw- 
ings idealizing the Arts : Sculpture chisels at a bust of Washington ; Painting is 
employed at her easel ; and Architecture is busied at the plans of a building. 

The Printers' Marks here are German. 

The inscriptions on the ceiling and over the windows are these : 

The first creature of God was the Hght of sense ; the last was the hght of reason. 

The light shineth in darkness, and the darkness comprehendeth it not. 

All are but parts of one stupendous whole, 
Whose body nature is and God the soul. 

In nature all is useful, all is beautiful. 

Art is long, and Time is fleeting.— Long/eZZow,'. 

The history of the world is the biography of great men.— Carlyle. 

Books will speak plain when counsellors blanch. — Bacon. 

Glory is acquired by virtue but preserved by letters.— PefrorcA. 

The foundation of every state is the education of its youth.— Z>io?ii/siMS. <, 

The South Corridor, at the right of the staircase, is especially characterized by Ben- 
son's bright and dainty paintings. The Four Seasons occupy circular panels upon the 
wall, and excite universal admiration. "Each is represented," says a 
Benson critic, "by a beautiful half-length figure of a young woman, with no 

Faintingrs. attempt, however, at any elaborate symbolism to distinguish the season 
which she typifies. Such distinction as the painter has chosen to indi- 
cate is to be sought rather in the character of the faces, or in the warmer or colder col- 
oring of the whole panel — in a word, in the general artistic treatment." 

Mr. Benson has also found space among the rich arabesques of the ceiling ornament 



THE LIBKARY OF CONGRESS. 



67 



for three hexagonal paintings, given to the Graces, in which the use of white is most 

skillfully and pleasingly made prominent. Aglaia is here regarded as 

the goddess or patroness of husbandry and pastoral life, and characterized The 

by the shepherd's crook ; Thalia stands, of course, for art, and by her Graces. 

side is seen a lyre, suggesting music, and a Greek temple as a symbol of 

architecture ; while Euphrosyne is the grace of graces — Beauty — and holds a mirror 

up to her own features. 

Near each end of the vault :^HIiBHHIHibs are rectangular IModeiTi 



panels representing a "scrim 
ball, and a baseball game 
games as compared with 
depicted in the North 
bas-reliefs are contin- 
hei'e, in two subjects 
prophecy. One is the 
sibyl — a fearsome old 
a sibylline scroll an an- 
of her applicants — a 
general and a nude woman. 
in similar pose, represents a 
or vala of the Norsemen, 
peiian panels in this corridor 
and Courage at the east end, 
and Prudence. 




AGLAIA. 

By F. W. Benson. 



mage " at foot- Games. 

— modern 

the ancient recreations 
Corridor. Mr. Perry's 
ued at the west end 
also expressing ancient 
Cumsean or Roman 
woman who reads from 
swer to the questions 
Roman 
The other. Perry's 

'wise woman" Sibyls. 

Maynard's Pom- 
show the Virtues, Patriotism 
and at the west end Temperance 



The Printers' Marks are French ; and a series of trophy medallions corresponds to 
that of the North Corridor, showing the crafts of the Potter, Glassmaker, Carpenter, 
Blacksmith, and Mason. The inscriptions here read : 

Beholding the bright couutenance of Truth in the quiet and still air of delightful studies. — Jtfiifo»i. 

The true University of these days is a Collection or Books. — Carlyle. 

Nature is the art of God. — Sir Thomas Browne. 

There is no work of genius which has not been the delight of mankind. — Lowell. 

It is the mind that makes the man, and our vigor is in our immortal soul. — Ovid. 

They are never aloue that are accompanied with noble thoughts. — Sir Philip Sidney. 

Man is one world, and hath another to attend him. —Herbert. 

Tongues in trees, books in the running brooks. 

Sermons in stones, and good in everything. — Shakspei'c — As You Like It. 

The true Shekinah is man. — Chrysostom. 

Only the actions of the just 

Smell sweet and blossom yi the dust. — James Shirley. 

Man raises but time weighs. 

Beneath the rule of men entirely great 
The pen is mightier than the sword. 

The noblest motive is the public good. 

A little learning is a dangero«s thing ; 

Drink deep, or taste not the Pierian spring. — Pope. 

Learning is but an adjunct to ourself . — Love''s Labor Lost. 
Studies perfect nature, and are perfected by experience. — Bacon. 

Dreams, books, are each a world ; books, we know, 

Are a substantial world, both pure and good. —Wordsworth. 



68 



PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 



The fault is not in our stars, 

But in ourselves, that we are underlings. — Shakspere — Julius Ccesar 

The universal cause 
Acts to one end, but acts by various laws. — Pope. 

Creation's heir, the world, the world is mine'. — Goldsmith. 

Vain, very vain, the weary search to find 

That bliss which only centers in the mind. — Goldsmith. 




te 



Wide doors admit from this Soutli Corridor into 
the exhibition hall corresponding to that on the 
north in its shape and plan of decoration, except 
that the prevailing tone here is blue. The two 
great mural paintings are the work of Kenyon 
Cox, who has taken as his subject for the south 
end the Sciences and for the north end the Arts. ' 
The composition and grouping of the two are / 
somewhat alike — the central figure in both 
being seated upon a kind of throne, supported 
by a classic balustrade extending each way to 
the limits of the canvas, along which the sub- ^ 

ordinate figures are displayed. 
Cox's In The Sciences, which faces 

*' Arts and the entrance, the central figure 
Sciences." is Astronomy, with Physics 
and Mathematics, distinguished 
by conventional symbols, at her right ; be- ^^• 

yond them geometrical figures seem merely 
symbolic accessories until close attention 
shows thit they spell the artist's name — ^"^ 

Kenyon Cox. At the right of the panel 
Botany and Zoology approach, and behind ■ 
them are seen shells, minerals, etc. In The 
Arts, at the north end of the room, Poetry sits 
enthroned in the center, in an attitude of exalta- 
tion, which is communicated to two little gen- 
iuses at her feet. At her right are a musician 
and an architect, while at her left sit Sculpture 
and Painting — all typified by women, graceful 
and dignified in mien, lovely in face. The coloring 
of these paintings is particularly rich and harmon- 
ious with the prevalent blue and gold of the room. 

This room is devoted to an extensive series of 
prints illustrating the processes and development of the 
graphic arts — etching, photography, and printing of 
photogravures and half-tones ; and the names written upon 
the wall tablets are those of men distinguished in science and 
art — Leibnitz, Galileo, Aristotle, Ptolemy, Dalton, Hipparchus, 
Herschel, Kepler, Lamarck, and Helmholz for the former 
Wagner, Mozart, Homer, Milton, Raphael, Rubens, Vitruvius, Man- 
sard, Phidias, and Michaelangelo for art. 

South of this hall a great door opens into the Southwest Pavilion, which 



'J*. 




THE LIBEARY OF CONGRESS. 69 

has been styled "Pavilion of the Discoverers, " from the theme of its decorations. Like 

the other corner rooms it is octagonal and its ceiling has a dome, the disk 

of which is decorated by George W. Maynard with an allegorical design Southwest 

embracing four stalwart female figures typifying National Virtues Pavilion. 

— Courage, roughly mail-clad and armed with shield and war-club ; 

Valor, a warrior of more refined type, with a sword ; Fortitude, an unarmed figure 

bearing an architectural column as a symbol of stability ; and Achievement, wearing 

the laurel crown. 

Each of these figures is related in thought to one of the four great tympanum paint- 
ings, also by Maynard, in which are idealized the succession of Adventure, Discovery, 
Conquest, and at last Civilization. The series begins at the east side with 
Adveuture. and each consists of three splendid female figures whose Maynard 

action and accompaniments express the artist's conceptions. It will be Paintings. 
noticed, too, that it is not adventure and conquest in general which is 
portrayed, but that which led to the discovery and civilization of America, and conse- 
quently all the accessories are English and Spanish, and the many names recorded are 
those of the adventurers, navigators, soldiers, priests, missionaries, and statesmen who 
successively figured in the development of North America from Spanish and British 
colonies to the independence and prosperity of the United States. 

In addition to this very fine series of paintings, the pendentives here (as in the other 
pavilions) bear a notable series of circular plaques in low relief, expressing by seated, 
nearly nude, female figures, the Four Seasons, modeled hy Bela L. Pratt. 
Spring sows seed, her garment blown by the vernal winds ; Summer, PlaQUes. 

older, sits quiet among the poppies ; Autumn, now mature, nurses a 
child ; and Winter gathers fagots to warm her aged body. The garlands over each cor- 
respond to the season. The orderly manner in which the decorations of this and the 
other pavilions, both painted and sculptured, have been made to correspond with one 
another and with the architectural requirements of the room, and to carry out and 
enforce by every detail the central idea belonging to each, makes them among the 
most remarkable examples of decoration in the world, and merits care- 
ful study. This pavilion is devoted to exhibition cases for the display BOOk 
of the growth and development of book illustration from the first rude Illustration. 
efforts in illumination and in wood-cutting to the finest modt-rn examples. 

The eastern door of this pavilion opens into the Exhibition Hall along the south 
side of the building, which is quietly decorated in plain tints, and devoted to an 
extensive exhibit of the art of making pictures mechanically. It is known, therefore, 
as the Print Room. Here one may see a great series of prints, illustrating the devel- 
opment of lithography and the processes a lithograph goes through, whether printed 
in monotint or in varied colors. Also early and fine modern examples of every sort of 
engraving upon wood, copper, and steel. In addition to this the library aims to show 
an example of the work of every prominent American etcher and engraver. This hall 
is illuminated by skylights. 

The Southeast Pavilion, called "Pavilion of the Elements," is at the Southeast 
eastern extremity of this room and is decorated by li. L. Dodge. In Pavilion. 

each of the four tympanums he has painted a representation of one of 
the four Elements— to the east, Earth; to the north, Air; to the west. Fire; to the 
south, Water. Each consists of three figures, and the allegory and u , |v . , 
symbolism in each case are readily interpreted by the beholder. In the „ p * ^ „ 
dome Mr. Dodge, in conjunction with Mr. Garnsey, has expressed the t'lcn'eniS. 
same idea in another Avay, figured by Apollo and the Sun for a centerpiece, surrounded 
by medallions and cartouches for the elements. 



70 



PICTOEIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 



The series of handsome but not especially notable apartments along the eastern 
front of the building are at present occupied on the south by Music and on the north 
by the Smithsonian collections. 

Returning to the Hall, the East Corridor and Entrance to the Rotunda 
Galleries remain to be considered. 
The East Corridor, crossing the head of the staircases, has penden- 
tive figures by Geo. R. Barse, Jr., illustrating the topic Literature, and com- 
prising Lyrica (Lyric poetry), Tragedy, Comedy, and History, on 
the east wall ; and Love, Erotica (poetry). Tradition, Fancy, and 
Romance, on the west wall. They are simply expressed in the forms 
of attractive women, each having the well-known conventional 
symbols. The center of the vau^lt exhibits three more striking medallion paintings 
by Wm. A. Mackay, giving ^,,^^,^^^=21^ — ~-^ t^^ three stages of the Life 



I>1ain 
Entrance. 



Barse 
Paintings. 



of Man as represented 

Lachesis, and Atro 

becomes plainer 

the accompan- 

tions. Thus 

Clotho, 



by the Fates — Clotho, 

pos. The allegory 

when one reads 

ying inscrip- 

beneath the 

with her 




COMUS. — By H. O. Walker. 

distaff and the baby upon her knee, spinning the thread of life, are the words : 



IMackay*s 
"Fates." 



For a web begun God sends thread. 

Lachesis, the weaver, is seen in the second picture, with shuttle and loom. 
The child has become a man, the stream a river, the twig a tree of 
which the man is gathering the fruit ; and we read 

The web of life Is a mingled yarn, 
Good and ill together. 

Then comes Atropos, severing with her fateful shears the old man's life thread as he 
pauses beneath the withered tree to gaze at the setting sun ; and here are written the 
words of Milton in " Lycidas " : 

Comes the blind Fury with th' abhorred shearo. 
And slits the thin-spun life. 

The Printers' Marks are those of Italian and Spanish houses ; while the names of 
American printers, type founders, and press builders are to be read upon the mural 
tablets : Green, Day, Franklin, Thomas, Bradford ; and Clymer, Adams, Gordon, Hoe, 
and Bruce. 

The Entrance to the Rotunda Galleries is from the middle of this East Corridor by a 
branching stairway of marble. In the bays beside it are two charming paintings by 
W. B. Van Ingen, illustrating Joy and 8ad7iess as suggested by Milton's poems 
"L' Allegro" and " II Penserose." The former is a light-haired, cheerful woman, 
among flowers and happy in the sunshine, near which is quoted : 



THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 71 

Come, thou goddess fair and free, 
In Heaven ycleped Euphrosyne, 
And by men, heart-easing Mirth. 



Paintings. 



Haste thee, nymph, and bring with thee \&n In^Cn 

Jest and youthful jollity. 

Quips, and cranks, and wanton wiles. 

Nods and becks, and wreathed smiles , 

Such as hang on Hebe's cheek. 

And love to live in dimple sleek. 



The other, a dark-visaged woman, expresses in her pensive face, mien, and surround- 
ings sadness and introspection : 

Hail I thou Goddess, sage and holy 1 
Hail, divinest Melancholy ! 
***** 

Come ; but keep thy wonted state. 
With even step and musing gait, 
And looks commercing with the skies, 
Thy rapt soul sitting in thine eyes : 
There, held in holy passion still, 
Forget thyself to marble. . . . 

At the head of the stairs, on the wall landing, is Elihu Vedder's colossal mosaic (in 
glass) of Minerva — Goddess of Wisdom — perhaps the grandest single object among the 
library decorations. This mosaic forms an arched panel, 15i^ feet high 
and 9 feet wide, bordered by a design of laurel branches. The figure of The Yeddcr 
Minerva is that of a magnificent — almost masculine — woman, a IMosaic. 

chieftainess whose armor has been partly laid aside, and who now 
addresses her mind to the arts of peace. The sun of prosperity 

is bursting through the ^^r:^---<?yr'^'-g-. r^«^^ war-clouds, and winged 

Victory beside her .^^ittt ^^^^fe^h. holds forth with one 

hand the olive ^^f^^^H^^ branch, while 

with the other ^^^Kf- ^^^^^k ^ ^ ^' dispenses 

the rewards ^^^^f (*^^m \ lo the con- 

querors. ^^^^^Hk '-■'^' Still hold- 

ing her ^^^^^^T^ ^^jfr^ .,^m Pi'(^'tt^'cl'"s 

spear, ^^^^^^^^^BsJ^^ ^^M V jUtt^^. she now 




ENDYMION.— By H. O. Walker. 

contemplates with attention and benignant gaze an unfolded scroll upon which she 
reads the names of branches of knowledge — Law, Statistics, Sociology, Philo.sophy, 
and the Sciences. The whole is grand and stately in conception, bold in drawing, and 
glowing in color, especially when seen by electric light. 

Passing up this staircase, and turning either to the left or right (where there are 
entrances to elevators), the visitor passes through doors admitting him to the public 
gallery of the Rotunda. 



72 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON". 

The Rotunda. 

The Rotunda is a grand, octagonal hall, 100 feet in diameter, occupying the whole 
center of the building, and rising unobstructed from the main floor to the canopy within 

the dome — a height of 125 feet. The walls are outwardly of Maryland 
The Rotunda, granite, immensely thickened by courses of brick, and lined with African 

and Italian marbles. 
The dome is carried upon eight massive piers, connected by noble arches, each arch 
filled above the capitals of its supporting pillars with semicircular windows of clear 
glass, thirty- two feet wide. The broad intrados of each arch is filled with sunken 
panels of color and gilded rosettes, in conformity with the general design of ceiling 
treatment. A heavy entablature of classic ornament (designed by Mr. Casey), in high 
relief, with all the prominences gilded, runs all around the rotunda, into every alcove, 

and out around all the eight piers. Each of the eight bays beneath this 
Dome and entablature is filled with a two-storied loggia of yellow variegated Siena 
Galleries. marble, the lower story consisting of three arches divided by square 

engaged pillars with Corinthian capitals, the second story of seven lesser 
arches supported by small pillars of Ionic style, extremely graceful ; and above all is 
carried an open gallery protected by a balustrade. These loggias and the upper galler- 
ies, nearly forty feet from the floor, run all around the rotunda ; and it is from these, 
reached from the grand staircase, and overlooking the whole room, that the sight-seeing 
public gaze upon the apartment and its busy workers, who are not permitted to be dis- 
turbed by the intrusion of casual visitors. These loggias form the eight sides of the 
hall, the two entrances to which are further distinguished by facades of Siena marble, 
which are perfect examples of the Corinthian style. Between each two adjacent loggias, 
filling the corners of the octagon, and forming the inner face of the eight great pro- 
jecting piers, that support the arches and sustain the dome, are splendid columns and 
faces of two shades of dark Numidian marble, crowned by golden Corinthian capitals, 
and standing upon pedestals of the chocolate-tinted marble of East Tennessee. 

On the summit of each of these columns stands a colossal emblematic statue, the 
eight representing the principal departments of human thought and development ; they 
are of plaster, toned an ivory-white, ten and one-half feet in height, and sixty feet from 
the floor, and beginning at the right of the entrance, are as follows : Religion, by Th. 
Bauer ; Commerce, by J. Flanagan ; History, by D. C. French ; Art, by Dozzi, of 
France, after sketches by Aug. St. Gaudens ; Philosophy, by B. L. Pratt ; Poetry, by 
Ward ; Law, by P. W. Bartlett, and Science, by J. Donoghue. Each is distinguished 
by some symbol, and above each, on a tablet supported by child-figures modeled by 
Martiny, are inscriptions, chosen by President Eliot of Harvard University, each appro- 
priate to its theme, thus : 

Above the figure of Religion, 

What doth the Lord require of thee, but to do justly, and to love mercy, and to walk humbly 
with thy GoA.—Micah vi: 8. 

Above the figure of Commerce, 

We taste the spices of Arabia, yet never feel the scorching sun which brings them 
forth. — Anonymous. 

Above the figure of History, 



One God, one law, one element, 

And one far-off divine event, 

To which the whole creation moves.— Tennyson. 



THE LIBKARY OF CONGRESS. 



73 



Above the figure of Art, 

As one lamp lights another, nor grows less, 
So nobleness enkindleth nobleness.— LoweH. 

Above the figure of Pldlosoplty , 

The enquiry, knowledge, and belief of truth is the sovereign good of human nature.— Bacon, 

Above the figure of Poetry, 

Hither, as to their fountain, other stars 
Repairing, in their golden urns draw M^ht.— Milton. 

Above the figure of Law, 

Of law there can be no less acknowledged than that her voice is the harmony of the world. 

—Hooker. 
Above the figure of Science, 

The heavens declare the glory of God ; and the firmament showeth His handiwork. . 

— Psalms -six: 1. 

Sixteen portrait statues, personally illustrating the great lines of creative thought 

above enumerated, stand along the balustrade of the gallery ; they are of bronze, and in 

pairs, one on each side of and overlooking that one of the eight colossal ideal statues 

above described of which its original was a type. The list is as follows : 

Typical of Religion: Moses, an ideal figure, by 
Niehaus; and St. Paul, an ideal figure, by Donoghue. 
Commerce: Columbus, by Paul W. Bartlett ; and Robert 
Fulton, by Ed C. Potter. Ilidory: Her- 
odotus, modeled after Greek sculptures, Hotunda 
by D. C. French ; and Gibbon, by Nie- Statues. 
haus. Art : Michaelangelo, by P. W. 
Bartlett ; and Beethoven, by Baur. Philosop/iy: Plato, 
from Greek busts, by J. J. Boyle ; and Bacon, also by 
Boyle, Poetry: Homer, after an ideal bust of ancient 
times, by Louis St. Gaudens ; and Shakspere, by Mac- 
monnies, modeled after the Stratford bust and the por- 
trait in the first edition of the Plays. Law: Solon, 
from Greek data, by Ruckstuhl ; and Chancellor Kent, 
by George Bissell. Science: Newton, by C. E. Dallin ; 
and Joseph Henry, by H. Adams. Except the idealiza- 
tions mentioned above, all are from authentic portraits, 
including details of costume, etc. 

The great clock of the rotunda, over the door, was 
modeled by J. Flanagan. "The clock itself is con- 
structed of various brilliantly colored precious marbles, 
and is sat against a background of mosaic, on which 
are displayed, encircling the clock, the signs of the 
zodiac in bronze . . . The hands, which are also 
gilded, are jeweled with semi-precious stones." 

The spandrels or triangular wall spaces between the arches are adorned by emblem- 
atic figures in relief and brought out by color, and the whole is capped by an encircling 
entablature of classic beauty, whence springs the superb canopy of the a-ch, filled with 
rich ornamentation to its crown, beneath which, in the collar of the dome, is an exceed- 
ingly interesting and beautiful series of figures in fresco, by E. H. Blashfield, symbol- 
izing the relations of the nations to human progress — the Evolution of Civilization, 




PHILOSOPHY 



74 PICTOKIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTOTT. 

This glorious fresco consists of twelve seated figures, men and women, personifying 
the great nations of history. All are winged, but this fact is hardly noticeable, yet of 

much importance in uniting into a whole the detached figures. Four of 
Blashfield'S them are more conspicuous by their lighter colors than the rest, and they 
Dome are not only those of most importance historically — Egypt, Rome, Italy, 

Frescos. and England — but they mark the cardinal points of the compass. 

Egypt, standing at the dawn of civilization, is appropriately placed at the 
east, and is a male figure of an ancient Egyptian, holding a tablet. Judea is a woman in 
an attitude of prayer, whose parted robe displays the vestment of a Jewish high priest; 
a pillar beside her is inscribed, Leviticus, xix: 18, "Thou shalt love thy neighbor as 
thyself." Greece is personified by a beautiful, diadem-crowned woman. Rome by a 
warrior in the armor of a centurion, resting his hands upon the Roman fasces. For 
Islam is chosen an Arab, representing the learned Moorish race and Moslem power. Next 
to him is a female figure personifying the Middle Ages, typifying by her sword, casque, 
and cuirass the great institution of chivalry, while the rule of the medieval Roman 
Catholic Church is suggested by the papal tiara and keys. By her sits white-robed Italy 
— the mother of the fine arts, whose symbols she has; and turned toward her is a printer 
of the early days, standing for Germany, where this art originated. Spain is a cavalier 
or navigator, eager for war, adventure, and discovery. Next him sits a gracious woman, 
representative of England, recalling in her costume the literary glories of the Eliza- 
bethan age and displaying an open folio of Shakspere's plays. France is next — Repub- 
lican France — sitting upon a cannon but holding out the Declaration of the Rights of 
Man. The twelfth figure completes the circle — America, typified in an Engineer, con- 
sulting a scientific book, while in front of him stands an electric dynamo. 

This series thus has a double significance — each personage standing not only for a 
nation geographically and historically considered, but for the genius or characteristic 
idea of each. '-Thus," remarks Mr. R. Cortissoz, "Egypt is the representative of written 

records, Judea typifies religion, Greece is the standard-bearer of philoso- 
Sig^nificance. phy, Rome bears the same relation toward administration, Islam stands for 

physics, the Middle Ages are figured as the fountain-head of modern 
languages, Italy is represented as the source of the fine arts, Germany as sponsor for the 
art of printing, Spain as the first great power in discovery, England as a mighty bulwark 
of literature, the France of the eighteenth century as emblematic of emancipation, and 
America as the nation of scientific genius. Each figure holds the insignia of its place." 
In the canopy of the dome, above and within the collar, Mr. Blashfleld has also 
painted, as if floating in the sky, an exquisitely graceful female figure, csiWedi Human 

Understanding, who lifts her veil and gazes up, as if seeking more and 
" Human more guidance from on high. Two cherubs attend her, carrying the 

Under- Book of Knowledge. 

standing." The practical work of the library concentrates in the rotunda, where (in 

the center) stands the circular desk of the superintendent and his assist- 
ants, who can speedily communicate with all parts of the building by a system of tele- 
phones, and by pneumatic tubes, which carry messages and orders for books to any 

required room or book-stack. The floor is filled with small desks, 
Adminis- arranged in concentric circles and separated l)y light screens or curtains, 

tration. and the intrusion of mere sight-seers is forbidden. Unlimited light and 

air are assured, and quiet is enforced; while celerity in obtaining and 
distributing books is secured by various devices that librarians elsewhere will admire 
and copy. As there is a constant call for books of reference from the Capitol, where the 
legislators often want a volume for instant use, an underground tunnel, foui* feet wide 
and six feet high, has been made between the two buildings, containing an endless cable 



THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 75 

carrier, upon whicli books may be sent back and forth at great speed. An assistant, 
cj'clopedias, etc., are stationed at the Capitol terminus. 

The stack-rooms, or apartments where the books themselves are kept, open out on 
each side of the rotunda into the lofty wings that divide the interior courts, whose 
enameled walls reflect a flood of light into their numerous windows. 
These repositories contain the most improved arrangement. Cases of Care Of " 

iron, rising sixty-five feet to the roof, are filled with adjustable shelves BookS. 

of coated steel as smooth as glass. The floors of these rooms are mar- 
ble, and the decks, at intervals of every seven feet from top to bottom, by which the 
attendants reach the shelves, are simply slabs of white marble on steel bars. Cleanliness 
and ventilation are thus fully assured. Each of these stacks will hold 800,000 books ; 
and the present capacity of all those erected is about 2,000,000 volumes, while addi- 
tional space can be made for 2,500,000 more, or nearly 4,500,000 volumes in all — more 
than the probable accumulation of the next century and a half. The greatest existing 
library in the world, that of France, now contains about 2,500,000 volumes. The 
available space for all purposes here is largely in excess of that of the British Museum, 
and amounts to more than two-thirds that of the Capitol itself. To Capt. Bernard 
Green belongs the high credit for the invention and perfection of these mechanical 
arrangements for the care of the books, and for many other improvements in library 
administration. The stack-rooms are not open to the public, but glimpses of them may 
be caught through glass doors in the rotunda gallery. 

Consultation of the books is open to anyone in the reading-room, though no books 
can be taken out. The applicant writes the title of the book he wants and his own 
address on a blank ticket, which he hands in at the central desk, where 
he presently gets the book. Seats are arranged at circular desks which Reading- 
will accommodate about 250 readers. No one may take books out of room. 
the library except members of Congress, and about thirty other high 
officials. 

A restaurant is maintained in the attic (reached by elevator) which is open to the 
public during the day and evening. 

The basement is devoted to the offices of the library (including that of 
the Superintendent of the Building and Grounds), and to the Copyright Restaurant. 
Office. This is quartered in a large hall on the south side, but contains 
nothing to interest the sightseer. 

This office grants copyrights upon all kinds of literary material, upon the payment 
of certain small fees and compliance with regulations as to the deposit of two 
copies of the publication in this library, and the proper publication of 
notice of copyright. The law makes this right apply to author, inventor, Copyright 
designer, or proprietor of any book, map, chart, dramatic or musical Office. 

composition, engraving, cut, print, or photograph or negative thereof, or 
of a painting, drawing, cliromo, statue, statuary, and of models or designs intended to 
be perfected as works of the fine arts, and the executors, administrators, or assigns of 
any such person shall, upon complying with the provisions of this chapter, have the 
sole liberty of printing, reprinting, publishing, completing, copying, executing, finish- 
ing, and vending the same ; and, in the case of a dramatic composition, of publicly per- 
forming or representing it, or causing it to be performed or represented by others. This 
privilege remains protected for twenty-eight years, and may then be renewed for four- 
teen years. 

The pictures of paintings in the Library, appearing in this chapter, are from copyrighted photo- 
graphs by Howard Gray Douglas, supplied by Houghton & Delano. 




^ i 







A VESTIBULE VISTA. 




THE NORTH CORRIDOR.— Second Story, Main Entrance Hall. 



IV. 
ON CAPITOL HILL. 

The plateau east of the Capitol was considered by the founders of the city the most 
desirable region for residence, and truly it was in those days, as compared with the 
hills and swamps of the northwestern quarter or the lowlands along the 
river. The principal owner was Daniel Carroll, and when the alternate Early 

city lots were sold for the benefit of the public funds, higher prices were Expectations. 
paid for them here than elsewhere. Carroll considered himself sure to be 
a millionaire, but died poor at last ; Robert Morris of Philadelphia, the financier of the 
Revolution, invested heavily here and lost accordingly ; and the two lots which 
Washington himself bought cost him about $1,000. 

Daniel Carroll built for himself what was then considered a very fine mansion, 
styled Duddington Manor ; and that it really was a spacious, comfortable, and elegant 



WEST FRONT CAPITOL AT NIGHT, ILLUMINATED WITH SEARCH-LIGHTS. 

house can be seen by anyone who will walk down New Jersey Avenue, three blocks 
southeast of the Capitol, and then a block east on E Street, which will ))ring him in 
sight of the old house upon its tree-shaded knoll, surrounded by a high wall, and 
desolate amid " modern improvements." Upon the personal history of the men who 
have dined beneath its roof, and the stories its walls might repeat, Mrs. Lockwood has 

79 



80 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 

expatiated pleasantly in her valuable book, " Historic Homes in Washington," to which 
everyone must be indebted who discourses upon the social chronicles of the capital. 

A more famous building was the old Capitol Prison, as it came to be 
Old Capitol called during the Civil War, whose walls still stand upon the block 
Prison. facing the Capitol grounds at the intersection of Marj-land Avenue with 

First and A streets, N. E., enclosing the residences called Lanier Place. 
This was a spacious brick building hastily erected by the citizens of Washington 
after the destruction of the Capitol by the British in 1814, to accommodate Congress and 
hold the national capital here against the renewed assaults of those who wished to move 
the seat of government elsewhere. While it was building. Congress held one session in 
Blodgett's " great hotel," which stood on the site of the former General Post Office, and 
then sat in this building until the restored Capitol was ready for them, in 1827. It was 
a big, plain, warehouse-like structure, which was turned into a boarding-house after 
Congress abandoned it, and there Senator John C. Calhoun died in 1850. When the 
Civil War broke out this building became a military prison for persons suspected or 
convicted of aiding and abetting the secession treason to which his influence had so pow- 
erfully contributed. Washington was full of Southern sympathizers and spies, and 
many are the traditions in the old families of days and weeks spent by overzealous 
members in "durance vile " within its walls, guarded by the " law-and-order brigade" 
of the Provost Marshal's office, which formed the police of the capital in those daj's. 
Here Wirz, the brutal keeper of Andersouville prison, was executed, as well as several 
other victims of the war. Several years ago it was remodeled into handsome residences, 
one of which was the home of Mr. Justice Field until his death in 1899. 

The tall brick Maltby Building, directly north of the Capitol, originally a hotel, is 
now occupied by congressional committees, and is called the Senate Annex. 

The Coast and Geodetic Survey, a scientific branch of the Treasury Department 
to map the coast, chart the waters, and investigate and publi.sh movements of tides, 
currents, etc., for the benefit of navigation, is domiciled in a brick build- 
Coast ing on New Jersey Avenue, south of the Capitol, immediately in the rear 

Survey. of the great stone house built long ago by Benjamin F. Butler as a resi- 

dence, and which is now principally occupied by the Marine Hospital 
Service. New Jersey Avenue leads in that direction to Garfield Park, which is too new 
to be of interest, and beyond that to the shore of the Anacostia, near the Navy Yard. 
Just west of it Delaware Avenue forms a perfectly straight street to Washington 
Barracks. 

Capitol Hill, as the plateau of the Capitol is popularly called, can yet show many 
fine, old-fashioned homes, though some formerly notable have disappeared. It has its 
own shady avenues, quiet cross streets, and pretty parks. In Stanton 
Greene Square (three and one-half acres), half a mile northeast out Maryland 

Statue. Avenue, is H. K. Brown's bronze statue of Major-General Nathanael 

Greene, who distinguished himself at Eutaw Spring and elsewhere in the 
South during the Revolution, and to whom a statue was voted by the Continental Con- 
gress. This statue, which was cast in Philadelphia, and cost, with its pedestal of New 
England granite, $50,000, is one of the most life-like figures in Washington, the model- 
ing of the horse being particularly admirable. The Peabody School confronts this neat 
square. A farther walk of half a mile down Massachusetts Avenue takes one to Lincoln 
Square — a beautifully shaded tract of six and one-quarter acres, just a mile east of the 
Capitol. Here Tennessee and Kentucky avenues branch oH northward and southward, 
the former leading to Graceland and Mount Olivet cemeteries, and the latter to the Con- 
gressional Cemetery, and to the bridge (over the Anacostia to Twining) at the foot of 
Pennsylvania Avenue. 



ON CAPITOL ntLL. 81 

Christ Church (Protestant Episcopal) on G Street, S. E., between Sixth and Seventh, 
is the oldest church in the city. It was erected in 1795, and was attended by 
Presidents Jefferson and Madison. Services are still held there. Christ 
Church Cemetery, more popularly known as the Congressional Burial Christ 

Ground, adjoins the grounds of the workhouse on the south, and Ctiurch. 

occupies a spacious tract on the bank of the Anacostia. It contains 
the graves and cenotaphs, formerly erected by Congress, of many persons once promi- 
nent in official life. 

This cemetery was the principal, if not the only place of interment at the beginning 
of civilization here ; and many officials who died at the capital were buried there, 
and the practice continues, Congress contributing toward the support 
of the cemetery in consideration of this fact. Among the notable men Congrcs- 

buried here are : Vice-President George Clinton of New York ; Signer sional 

and Vice-President Elbridge Gerry of Massachusetts, whose name gave Cemetery. 
us the verb "to gerrymander"; William West, born in Bladensburg 
in 1772, a distinguished essayist and jurist, and finally Attorney-General under Monroe ; 
Alexander Macomb, hero of Plattsburg and General of the army preceding Scott, who 
has a fine military monument ; his predecessor. Gen. Jacob Brown, resting imder 
a broken column ; Tobias Lear, Washington's private secretary ; A. D. Bache, the 
organizer of the coast survey, and several distinguished officers of the old army and 
navy. A public vault, erected by Congress, stands near the center of the grounds. 
The nearest street cars are on F Street, S. E. 

All this old-settled and no longer fashionable region, near the Anacostia, is spoken 
of rather contemptuously as "the navy yard," and it supplies a fair share of work 
for the police courts ; but it is greatly beloved of soldiers and sailors on leave. 

In Lincoln Square, the most beautiful thing is the lofty, symmetrical sycamore tree 
in the center ; but the most noted object is the Statue Monument to the Emancipation 
of the Slaves. This is a bronze group, erected by contributions from the 
colored f reedmen of the United States, many of whom were set free by Emancipation 
the proclamation which is represented in the hand of the great benefactor I^lonument. 
of American slaves, one of whom is kneeling, unshackeled, at his feet. 
One of the inscribed tablets upon the pedestal informs us that the first contribution was 
the first free earnings of Charlotte Scott, a freed woman of Virginia, at whose suggestion, 
on the day of Lincoln's death, this monument fund was begun. This statue, twelve 
feet high, was cast in Munich at an expense of |17,000, and was unveiled on April 14, 
1876, the eleventh anniversary of Lincoln's assassination, Frederick Douglass making 
the oration. 

East Capitol Street is a wide avenue running straight, one mile, from this park to the 
Capitol, between rows of elms and poplars, and continuing onward to the Eastern Branch 
through scanty and low-lying suburbs. On the same river bank, at the east- 
ern terminus of Massachusetts Avenue, occupying a reservation called District 
Hospital Square, are the District Almshouse, Workhouse (or Asylum for Institutions. 
the Indigent), and the stone jail, costing $40,000, in which several 
murderers, including Garfield's assailant, Gulteau, have been confined and executed. 
Some distance away, on the Bladensburg Koad, can be seen the buildings of the Boys' 
Reform School. All these institutions arc well worth inspection by those especially 
interested ; but the view of them obtained from passing trains of the Pennsylvania 
Railroad will satisfy most persons. 

The Navy Yard is one of the places which visitors to Washington Navy Yard. 
are usually most anxious to see, but it usually offers little to reward 
their curiosity outside of the gunshop, museum, and trophies. It stands on the banks 



82 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 

of the broad tidal estuary of the Anacostia River, at the foot of Eighth Street, S. E., 
and is the terminus of the cars from Georgetown along Pennsylvania Avenue. The 
Anacostia line of street cars along M Street, S. E., also passes the gate. 

This navy yard was established (1804) as soon as the Government came here, and was 
an object of destruction by the British, who claim, however, that it was set on fire by 
the Americans. It was restored, and "for more than half a century many of the largest 
and finest ships of war possessed by the United States were constructed in this yard." 
Two spacious ship houses remain, but the yard is now almost entirely given up to the 
manufacture of naval guns and ammunition and the storage of equipments. It often 
happens that not a ship of any sort is at the wharves (though a receiving ship is usually 
moored there), and the sentry at the gate is almost the only sign of military occupation 
about the place. 

The first great building on the right, the Gun Shop, at the foot of the stone stairs, 
is the most interesting place in the yard. It is filled with the most powerful and ap- 
proved machinery for turning, boring, rifling, jacketing, and otherwise 
Ordnance finishing ready for work the immense rifles required for modern battle- 

Factories. ships, as well as the smaller rapid-fire guns forming the supplementary 
batteries of the cruisers and other vessels of war. The great guns are 
mainly cast at Bethlehem, Pa., and brought here rough. Observing carefully the posted 
regulations, the visitor may walk where he pleases through these magnificent factories 
and watch the extremely interesting process, and should it happen that any vessels of 
war are in the harbor, permission to go on board of them may usually be obtained. 

The oflice of the commandant of the yard is at the foot of the main walk near the 
wharf, and there application should be made for permission to go anywhere not open 
to the public. A large number of guns, showing types used in the past, 
Trophies. are lying near the oflice, and a series of very interesting cannon captured 

from the Tripolitan, British, Mexican, or Confederate enemies whom the 
navy has had to fight, are mounted before the oflice. Among them is the famous 42- 
pounder. Long Tom, cast in 1786 in France, captured from the frigate Noche by the 
British in 1798, and then sold to us. Later it was struck by a shot, condemned, and 
sold to Haiti, then at war with France. This over, the cannon had various owners until 
1814, when it formed the main reliance in the battery of the privateer General Arm- 
strong, which, by pluckily fighting three British war-ships ofE Fayal, in the Azores, so 
crippled them that the squadron was unable to reach New Orleans, whither it was 
bound, in time to help the land forces there against the victorious Jackson. The brig 
was afterward sunk to prevent her capture by the British, but the Portuguese authori- 
ties had so greatly admired the little ship's action that they saved this gun as a trophy, 
and sent it as a present to the United States. 

A museum near the gate is worth visiting, as it contains many pieces of old-fashioned 
ordnance and ammunition, and many relics of historical or legendary interest, of which 
the most popular, perhaps, is the stern-post of the original Kearsarge, 
Navy still containing a shell received during her fight with the Alabama. The 

IMuseum. door of the museum is shaded by a willow grown from a twig cut above 

the grave of Napoleon at St. Helena. The residences of oflicers on duty 
at the yard are near the gate, which was built from designs by Latrobe. 

The marine barracks, three squares above the Navy Yard, on Eighth Street, S. E., 
occupy a square surrounded by brick buildings painted yellow, according to naval cus- 
tom, and are the home station and headquarters of the Marine Corps ; 
[Marine Corps, but, except that here is the residence of the famous Marine Band, they 
contain nothing of interest to the visitor, unless he likes to watch guard- 
mounting every morning at 9, or the formal inspection on Mondays at 10 a. m. The 



ON CAPITOL HILL. 



83 



Marine Band is the only military band always stationed in "Washington, and available 
for all military ceremonials. These advantages have given it great excellence ; and its 
music at parades, President's receptions, inaugural balls, etc., is highly appreciated. 
This band gives outdoor concerts in summer. 

The Naval Hospital, for sick and wounded officers and men of the Navy and Marine 
Corps, is at Pennsylvania Avenue and Ninth Street, S. E.; and at Second and D streets, 
S. E., is Providence Hospital, founded in 1863. 

Anacostia is a name applied in an indefinite way to the region opposite the Navy 
Yard, and is reached by a bridge at the foot of Eleventh Street, crossed by the street 
cars of the Anacostia & Potomac line. The village at the farther end of 
the bridge, now called Anacostia, vpas formerly Uniontown, and from it Anacostia 
bi'anch roads lead up on the Maryland heights in various directions, where Suburbs. 

electric railroads and park villages are rapidly extending. Twining, at 
the eastern end of the Pennsylvania Avenue bridge ; Lincoln Heights, in the extreme 
eastern corner of the district ; Garfield and Good Hope, on the fine Marlboro Turnpike, 
which is a favorite run for cyclers ; and Congress Heights, farther south, are the prin- 
cipal of these suburban centers. All of these high ridges were crowned and connected 
by fortifications, some of which remain in fairly good condition, especially Fort Stanton, 
just south of Garfield. A wide and interesting view of the city and the Potomac Valley 
is obtained from its ramparts, and also of the great Federal Insane Asylum. 




MUSEUM, NAVY VARD. 



V. 



FROM THE CAPITOL TO THE WHITE HOUSE. 



A Walk Up Pennsylvania Avenue. 

Pennsylvania Avenue is the backbone of Washington — the head of it resting upon 
the stoned heights of Georgetown, and the tail lost in the wilderness of shanties east of 
the Navy Yard. It is four miles and a half long, but is broken by the 
Capitol grounds and by the Treasury and White House grounds. Pennsylvania 
Between these two breaks it extends as a straight boulevard, one and a Avcnue. 

half miles in length and 160 feet wide, paved with asphalt and expanding 
at short intervals into spaces or parks caused by the angular intersection of other 
streets. It will, by-and-by, be among the grandest streets in the United States. 

A walk up " The Avenue " begins at the western gates of the Capitol, where First 
Street, N. W., curves across its rounded front. Pennsylvania Avenue strikes north- 
west ; a few paces to the left, Maryland Avenue diverges southwest, straight down past 
the National Museum to Long Bridge. The circles at the beginning of these streets are 
filled with two conspicuous monuments — the Naval or Peace Memorial at Pennsylvania 
Avenue, and the Garfield at Maryland Avenue. 




PENNSYLVANIA AVENUE.— Looking East from the Treasury Department. 

85 



86 



PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 



The Naval Monument was erected in 1878 from contributions by officers and men of 
that service, "in memory of the officers, seamen, and marines of the United States Navy 

vpho fell in defense of the Union and liberty of their country, 1861-1865." 
Naval It was designed from a sketch by Admiral David D. Porter, elaborated 

l^onument. by Franklin Simmons, at Rome, and is of pure Carrara marble, resting 

upon an elaborate granite foundation designed by Edward Clark, the 
present architect of the Capitol. America is sorrowfully narrating the loss of her 
defenders, while History records on her tablet : " They died that their country might 
live." Below these figures on the western plinth of the monument is a figure of Victory, 
with an infant Neptune and Mars, holding aloft a laurel wreath, and on the reverse is a 
figure of Peace offering the olive branch. The cost was |41,000, half of which was 
given by Congress for the pedestal and its two statues. 




THE NAVAL MONUMENT. — Pennsylvania Avenue near Western Entrance to Capitol Grounds. 

The Garfield Statue is a more recent acquisition, having been erected by his comrades 
of the Army of the Cumberland, and unveiled in 1887, to commemorate the virtues and 

popularity of President James A. Garfield, whose assassination, six 
Garfield years before, had horrified the whole country. The statesman stands 

IMonUtnent. upon a massive pedestal, in the attitude of an orator ; nearer the base of 

the statue three figures represent three phases of his career — student, 
soldier, and publicist. This statue was designed by J. Q. A. Ward, and erected at an 
expense of $65,000, half of which was appropriated by Congress to pay for the pedestal 
and its three bronze figures. 

In the triangle between these two avenues lies the ten-acre tract of the 
Botanical Botanical Garden, where Congressmen get their button-hole bouquets, 

Garden. and their wives cuttings and seeds for pretty house-plants. It long ago 

outlived its scientific usefulness, and has never attained excellence as a 
public pleasure-garden or park, while its cost has been extravagant. In its central 



FKOM THE CAPITOL TO THE WHITE HOUSE. 



87 



greenhouse may be seen certain tropical plants brought home by the Wilkes and Perry 
exploring expeditions ; and the conspicuous illuminated fountain in the center of the 
grounds is the one by Bartholdi, so greatly admired at the Centennial Exposition, 1876. 
It cost $6,000. 

The buildings improve as we proceed, and in the next block, on the right, is the 
National Hotel, whose history goes back to the early decades of the century, for in the 
time of Clay and Webster it was filled with the leading spirits in the 
Government, who caused many memorable things to happen beneath its Early Hotels. 
roof. At Sixth Street, just south of the avenue, is the handsome station 
of the Pennsylvania Railroad, and opposite it is the Metropolitan Hotel, covering the 
site of the first important hotel in Washington, the "Indian Queen," which was the 
scene of the greatest festivities at the capital during the first third of the century. 

This brings us to Seventh Street, the chief north-and-south aitery of traffic. Here 
Louisiana Avenue extends northeastward to Judiciary Square ; and its diagonal crossing 
of Pennsylvania Avenue leaves a triangle, upon which stands the equestrian statue of 
Maj.-Gen. Wiufield S. Hancock, by Henry J. Ellicott, erected in 1896. 

On the south side of the avenue here, stretching from Seventh to Ninth Street, is 
Center Market, one of the most spacious, convenient, well-furnished, and withal pictur- 
esque establishments of its kind in the country. No one should consider 
a tour of Washington made until they have spent an early morning hour Center 

in this market, and in the open-air country market behind it, along the Market. 

railings of the Smithsonian grounds, where the gaunt farmers of the Vir- 
ginia and Maryland hills stand beside their ramshackle wagons, or hover over little 
fires to keep warm, and quaint old darkies oflfer for sale old-fashioned flowers and 

"yarbs," live chickens, and fresh-laid 
eggs, bunches of salad or fruit from 
their tiny suburban fields, smoking cob 
pipes and crooning wordless melodies 
just as they used to do in " befo' de wa' " 
days. There are four or five great mar- 
kets in Washington. Between the market 
and Pennsylvania Avenue is a park space, 
through which runs the depression mark- 
ing the old Tiber Canal, now a grassy 
trench crossed by a picturesque bridge. 
Here stands the Statue of Maj.-Gen. John 
A. Rawlins, Grant's Chief 
of Staff, and later his Sec- <^a>ylins 

retary of War, who also Statue. 

has a small park named 
after him in the rear of the War Office, 
where this monument was first erected. 
This statue, which is of bronze, after de- 
signs by J. Bailey, cast in Philadelphia, 
from rebel cannon captured by Grant's 
armies, was erected in 1874, and paid for 
($13,000) by friends of Rawlins, who died 
here in 186i). 

Good modern buildings and fine stores 
line the avenue from here on to Fifteenth 
Street, especially on the northern side. At 




BRONZE STATUE OF JAMES A. GARFIELD. 

Southwestern Entrance to Capitol Grounds. 

By J. Q. A. Ward. 



00 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 

Ninit Street another north-and-south artery of street-car traffic is crossed, and the 
Academy of Music appears at the right. 

Tentji Street, the next, is historic. At the left, past the market, is the principal en- 
trance to the Smithsonian grounds ; and on the corner is the office of a lively morning 
newspaper, Tlie Times. The open space here is decorated with Plassman's 
Franklin Statue of Benjamin Franklin, looking shrewdly down upon the trafficking 

Statue. throng, as that eminent man of affairs was wont to do. It is marble, of 

heroic size, represents Franklin in his court dress as Minister to the Court 
of France, and was presented to the city in 1889, by Stilson Hutchins, an editor and 
writer of wide reputation. The assassination of President Lincoln occurred in the old 
Ford's Theater on this Tenth Street, in the second block north of Pennsylvania Avenue, 
and the buildings made sacred by the event are still standing. 

Ford's Theater, which during the Civil War was the leading theater in the city, has 
long been occupied by the Government as offices. Here, on the night of April 14, 1865, 
President Lincoln, with members of his family and staff, went, by special 
Ford's invitation, to witness a play in which the actor J. Wilkes Booth had a 

Theater. principal part. During an intermission, Booth entered the box in which 

the President sat, shot him in the back of the head with a revolver, and 
then leaped to the stage. At the same time, other assassins made attempts upon the 
life of the cabinet officers — that upon Secretary Wm. H. Seward nearly proving suc- 
cessful. Booth leaped to the stage, and, with the other assassins, made his escape, but 
all were soon recaptured, brought to Washington (except Booth, who was killed in 
Maryland), and incarcerated in the military penitentiary at the Arsenal, where four 
of the leaders of the conspiracy were tried and hung. Ford's Theater was at once 
closed by order of the Government, which purchased the building in 1866. It was 




FROM THE CAPITOL TO THE WHITE HOUSE. 



89 




OLDROYD LINCOLN MUSEUM. 



remodeled and appropriated to the uses of the Record and Pension Division of th(*War 
Department, and on June 9, 1893, suffered a collapse of the floors, which cans .1 t«ie 
death and maiming of many clerks. During all this time the proscenium i)illar, next 
which Mr. Lincoln sat -when he was killed, had been preserved in place, properly 
marked ; it survived the disaster of 1893, and can still be seen. 

The house in which Lincoln died (No. OldfOyd 

.j16 10th Street, between E and F) contains Lincoln 

the Oldroyd Lincoln memorial collection, Wluseum. 

begun by O. H. Oldroyd in 1860, and now 
comprising three thousand objects connected with or relating 
to the martyred President. Among them are the following ; 
Family Bible in which Lincoln wrote his name in boyhood ; 
log from the old Lincoln home ; stand made from logs of 
house in which Lincoln lived, 1832-36 ; rail split bj^ Lincoln 
and John Hanks in 1830 (with afHdavit by Hanks); discharge 
given to one of his men by Captain A. Lincoln, Black Hawk 
War, 1832 ; picture of Springfield House ; flag carried in 
Lincoln and Hamlin campaign ; office chair in which Lincoln 
sat when he drafted his first Cabinet ; farewell address to neighbors ; articles of furni- 
ture from the Springfield home ; autograph letters ; life-mask and cast of hands by 
L. W. Volk ; bill of the play "Our American Cousin"; 250 funeral sermons ; 63 marches 
and dirges; 263 portraits, including the earliest known; 209 medals; the spur and flag 
which plaj-ed a prominent part in Booth's leap from the bo.x in the theater. 

At the corner of Eleventh Street is The Evening Star, opposite which, filling the 
whole square from Eleventh to Twelfth Street, is the Post Office, elsewhere described. 
On the corner of Twelfth Street stands the lofty Raleigh Hotel. The ^wo pretty 
little parks at Thirteenth Street are confronted by hotels, rectaurants, et^ and the 
National Theater, which is among the foremost places of amusement in 
the city. The handsome home of The Post, the leading morning news- Twelfth tO 
paper, is just beyond. On the south side of the avenue is seen the head- Fifteenth 

quarters building of the Southern Railway system ; and at Thirteen- Streets. 

and-one-half Street, just beyond the ruins of a railway power-house, 
is the terminus of the Washington, Alexandria & Mount Vernon Electric Railway. 
Fourteenth Street is the most important thoroughfare, north and south, in this jiart 
of the city, extending from the Long Bridge, at the foot of Maryland Avenue, north- 
ward to Mount Pleasant. The Belt Line cars run southward upon it from Pennsylvania 
Avenue to the Bureau of Engraving and Printing, and so on around to the Capitol. At 
the right (northward) the street slopes steeply up the hill to F Street, and this block, as 
far as the Ebbitt Hou.se, is known as Newspaper Row, because filled with the offices of 
correspondents of newspapers all over the country. Opposite them, occupying the 
northwest corner, is Willard's Hotel 

The block opposite Willard's is devoted to business houses, and has the Regent 
Hotel. Around the corner to the left, on Fifteenth Street, are the Grand Opera House, 
the armory of the Washington Light Infantry, the house of the Capital Bicycle Club, etc. 
This brings us to the end of the avenue, against the southern portico of the Treas- 
ury, and in sight of the impressive Sherman memorial. Turning to the right, up the 
slope of Fifteenth Street, we pass the busy terminus of F Street, and go on to G, where 
the Riggs House forms a dignified corner-piece. A few stejis farther, the broad avenue 
in front of the Treasury opens the way northward, and brings us to that goal of patri- 
otic ambition — the White House. 



VI. 
AT THE EXECUTIVE MANSION. 

The Executive Mansion, more commonly called the White House, has gained for 
itself a world-wide reputation in a century's existence. George Washington was present 
at the laying of the corner-stone in 1792, in what then was simply David 
Burns' old fields stretching down to the Potomac (for this was the first History. 

public building to be erected), but John Adams was the first President to 
live in the building (1800), which was still so new and damp that his wife was obliged 
to have a literal house-warming to dry the interior sufficiently for safety to health. Its 
cost, up to that time, had been about |250,000. 

The architect, James Hoban, who had won reputation by building some of the fine 
houses on the Battery in Charleston, took his idea of the mansion from the house of the 




THE EXECUTIVE OFFICES. 

Irish Duke of Leiuster, in Dublin, who had, in turn, copied the Italian style. The 
material is Virginia sandstone, the length is 170 feet, and the width 86 feet. The house 
stands squarely north and south, is of two stories and a basement, has a heavy balustrade 
along the eaves, a semicircular colonnade on the south side (facing the river and finest 
grounds), and a grand portico and porte-cochere on the northern front, added in Jack- 
son's time. Its cost, to the present, exceeds f 1,500,000. In 1814 the British set fire to 
the building, but heavy rains extinguished the conflagration before it had greatly injured 
the walls. Three years later the house had been restored, anil the whole was then painted 
white, to cover the ravages of fire on its freestone walls, a color which has been kept 
ever since, and is likely to remain as long as the old house does, not only because of the 
tradition, but because it is really effective among the green foliage in which thw mansion 
is ensconced. It was reopened for the New Year's Day reception of President Monroe 
in 1818. 

91 



AT THE EXECUTIVE MANSION. 



93 



President's 
Grounds. 



Door- 
keepers. 

first public 
of the 



The President's Grounds consist of some eighty acres sloping down to the Potomac 
Flats. The immediate gardens were early attended to, as is shown by the age and size 
of the noble trees; but only latelj' lias the more distant part of the groiuids 
been set in order. This part, as also the park nearer the liouse (locally 
known as the White Lot) is open freely to the public, under the e3'e of 
policemen; and here, in warm weather, the Marine Band gives outdoor 
concerts in the afternoon, and the people come to enjoy them. At such times fashion 
gathers in its carriages upon the winding roads south of the mansion, and assumes the 
formal parade of Rotten Row or the Bois de Boulogne. It is here, too, 
on the sloping terrace just behind the White House, that the children of Egg-roUing. 
the city gather on Easter Monday to roll their colored eggs — a pretty 
custom the origin of which has been quite forgotten. Lafayette Scjuare ought also to 
be included as practically a part of the President's Grounds. 

Admission to certain parts of the White House is almost as free to everybody as it is 
to any other of the people's buildings in their capital. Coming from Pennsylvania 
Avenue by the principal approach, along the semicircular carriage drive that leads up 
from the open gates, the visitor enters the stately vestibule through the front portico, 
from whose middle upper window Lincoln made so many impromptu 
but memorable addresses during the war. Here will be found door- 
keepers, who direct callers upon the President up the staircase to the 
offices, and form visitors, who wish to see the pu])lic rooms of the man- 
sion, into little parties, who are conducted under their guidance. The 
apartment visited is that on the left as you enter, occupying the eastern win 
building and called the Ea.st Room. 

This, which was originally designed for a banquet hall, and so used until 1827, is now 
the state recep- 
tion room. It is 
80 feet in length, 
40 feet wide, and 
22 feet high, and 
has eight beauti- 
ful marble man- 
tels, surmounted 
by tall mirrors. 
Its embel lish- 
ments arc renewed 
every eight or ten 
years, reflectini; 
the c h a n g i n i; 
fashion in decora- 
tion; but the crys- 
tal chandeliers, 
which depen d 
from each of the 
three great panels 
of the ceiling 
(dating.with their 
supporting pillars 
f rom Grant'stime) 
are never changed ; 
and whatever the IN line on A reception day.— At the white House. 




94 



PIOTOKIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 




PORTRAIT OF WASHINGTON. — In East Room. 



style, the profusion of gilding and mirrors 
gives a brilliant back- 
East Room, ground for the gorgeously 
arrayed assemblages that 
gather here on state occasions, when the 
hall is a blaze of light, and a garden of foli- 
age and flowers from the great conserva- 
tories. Full-length portraits of George and 
Martha Washington are conspicuous 
among the pictures on the walls. The 
former used to be thought one painted 
by Gilbert Stuart, but it is now known 
to be the work of an obscure English 
artist who copied Stuart's style — a " very 
feeble imitation " Healy pronounced it. 

" Every visitor is told," remarks Mr. 
E. V. Smalley, who explained these facts 
in The Century Magazine, "that Mrs. 
Madison cut this painting from out of 
its frame with a pair of shears, to save it 
from the enemy, when she fled from the 
town [in 1814] ; but in her own letters 
describing the hasty flight, she says that 
Mr. Custis, the nephew of Washington, hastened over from Arlington to save the 
precious portrait, and that a servant cut the outer frame with an ax, so that the canvas 
could be removed, stretched on the inner frame." 

The portrait of Mrs. Martha Washington is a modern composition by E. B. Andrews 
of Washington. A full-length jDortrait of Thomas Jefferson, also by Mr. Andrews, and 
one of Lincoln, by Coggeshall, also occupy panels here. 

The East Room is open to anyone daily from 10 to 3, but the other official apart- 
ments are only visible by special request, or when, at intervals, a custodian leads a 
party through them. 

Adjoining the East Room, at Its southern end, is the Green Room, so named from 
the general color of its decorations and furnitui'e, which are traditional. The tone is 
pale gray green. The ceiling is ornamented with an exquisite design of 
Green Room, musical instruments entwined in a garland with cherubs and flowers, and 
there is a grand piano. There are touches of gilt everywhere upon the 
ivory-like woodwork, and the rococo open-work in the tops of the windows, from which 
the curtains hang, is noticeable. Here hang several notable portraits. One of these is a 
full-length, by Huntington, President of the National Academy, of Mrs. Benjamin 
Harrison, which was presented by the Daughters of the American Revolution, of whose 
society she was president. Another notable iwrtrait by the same artist is the full-length 
of Mrs. Rutherford B. Hayes, presented by the Women's Christian Temperance Union, 
commemorating Mrs. Hayes' courage in maintaining the cold-water regime at the 
Executive Mansion. Three other portraits are hung here by friends. One is of Mrs. 
James K.Polk; another, of the second wife of President Tyler, and the third, of the wife 
of Major Van Buren, son of President Martin Van Buren, known in his time as 

' ' Prince Harry. " 
Blue Room. Next to this is the'somewhat larger (40 by 80 feet) and oval Blue Room, 
which bows outward in the center of the colonnade of the south front 
of the building, and whose decorations are in pale blue and gold. The ornaments 



AT THE EXECUTIVE MANSION". 



m 




THE EAST ROOM. 




THE BLUE ROOM. 



96 



PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 



are presents from the French. The mantel clock was a present from Napoleon to 
Lafayette, and was given by the latter to the United States; and the fine vases were 
presented by the President of the French Republic on the occasion of the opening of 
the Franco-American cable. It is here that the President stands when holding recep- 
tions, the ceremonial of which is described elsewhere, and here President and Mrs. 
Cleveland were married in 1886. 

The Red Room, west of the Blue Room, a square room of the same size as the 

Green Parlor, has a more home-like look than the others, by reason of its piano, 

mantel ornaments, abundant furniture, and pictures, and the fact that 

Red Room. it is used as a reception-room and private parlor by the ladies of the 

mansion. The prevailing tone is Pompeiian red, and the walls are 

covered with portraits, as follows . 

A full-length of President Arthur, by Daniel Huntington, N. A. 

A full-length of Cleveland, by Eastman Johnson. 

A full-length of Benjamin Harrison, by Eastman Johnson, 1895. 

A half-length of James A. Buchanan. 

A half-length of Martin Van Buren, by Healy. 

A half-length of Zacbary Taylor, by Healy. 

A half-length of John Adams, by Healy. 

All these rooms open upon the corridor running lengthwise the building and sepa- 
rated from the vestibule by a partition of glass, which President Arthur prevailed 
upon Congress to order, to replace an old wooden one. "The light coming through 
the partition of wrinkled stained-glass mosaic makes a marvelously rich and gorgeous 
effect, falling upon the gilded niches where stand dwarf palmetto trees, the silvery 
network of the ceiling, and the sumptuous furniture." In this corridor hang several 
portraits of Presidents, including a full-length of Washington, by an Ecuadorian artist, 




THE RED ROOM. 



AT TITE EXECUTIVE MANSION. 97 

Cadena of Quito, and presented by him ; and of Polk, Garfield (by Andrews), Hayes, 
Fillmore, Tyler, Grant (by Le Clair), and Jackson — one of Andrews' early efforts. 
Many of the older ones are by Healy, who painted portraits of Presidents J. Q. Adams, 
Tyler, Jackson, Van Buren, Taylor, Fillmore, Polk, Pierce, Buchanan, Lincoln, and 
Grant. Each President is supposed to leave his portrait here. 

The State Dining-room is at the south end of this corridor, on the 
left, in the corner of the house. It measures 40 by 30 feet, and is in ^**^^ Dining- 
the Colonial style, the prevailing colors being a dull yellow, meant rOOm. 

to light up warmly under gaslight. 

"The ceiling is surrounded with a frieze of garlands, about 3}4 feet wide, with 
medallions at intervals. From these wreaths and vines run to the chandeliers. Beneath 
the cornice is a heavy frieze about four feet in width, which blends into the wall, 
with garlands of native vines, leaves, and fruits. . . . The general character 
of the work is known as 'applique relief,' which is produced by blending transparent 
colors on a light ground, . . . the effect being greatly increased by the fact 
that the various colors and figures are 'edged up' in relief to imitate the corded 
or raised work in applique. . . . State dinners are usually given once or twice 
a week during the winter, and are brilliant affairs. Lavish use is made of plants and 
flowers from the conservatories, and the tahle, laden with a rare display of plate, 
porcelain, and cut-glass, presents a beautifid appearance, forming an effective setting 
for the gay toilets of the ladies and their glittering jewels. The table service is exceed- 
ingly beautiful, and is adorned with various representations of the flora and fauna 
of America. The new set of cut-glass was made at White Mills, Pa., and is regarded 
as the finest ever produced in this country. It consists of 520 separate pieces, and 
was especially ordered by the Government for the White House. On each piece 
of the set, from the mammoth centerpiece and punch bowl to the tiny saltcellars, 
is engraved the coat of arms of the United States. The execution of the order occu- 
pied several months, and cost |G,000. The table can be made to accommodate as many 
as fifty-four persons, but the usual number of guests is from thirty to forty." 

The western door of the corridor leads into the conservatory, which is alwa^-s in 
flourishing beauty ; and opj)osite the state dining-room is the private or familj^ dining- 
room, a cozy apartment looking out upon the avenue. The private stairway is near its 
door. A butler's pantry, a small waiting-room at the right of the vestibule, and an 
elevator complete the list of rooms on this main floor 

The basement is given up entirely to the kitchen, storerooms, and servants' 
quarters. 

The business oflices of the President and his secretaries are on the second floor, at 
the eastern end, and are reached by a stairway at the left of the vestibu)". At the head 
of the stairway sits a messenger who directs persons into the large ante- 
room, which is in reality a hallway of the house, and to the door of the President's 
oftice of the Secretary to the President, who occupies the corner room Office. 

southeast. 

The President's office is next to that of his private secretary — a hirge, plain, com- 
fortably furnished room, lined with cases of books of law and reference. His great desk 
is at the southern end of the room, and the President sits with his back to the window, 
which commands a wide view down the Potomac. The massive oak table here is made 
from timbers of the Resolute, a British ship abandoned in the Arctic ice while searching 
for Sir John Franklin, in 1854, but recovered by American whalers; it is a gift from 
Queen Victoria. 

The Cabinet Room is next bej'ond, immediately over the Green Room — another 
plain, handsome, rather dark apartment, with a long table down the center surrounded 



PlCTOHtAL GtriBE TO WASHINGTON. 



by armchairs. The President sits at the southern end of the table, with the Secretary 

of State on his right, the Secretary of the Treasury on his left, and the 
Cabinet others farther down the table. The more or less valuable portraits of 

Room. several past Presidents look down upon them from the walls. 

The Executive Mansion is well guarded. A large force of watchmen, 
including police officers, is on duty inside the mansion at all hours, and a continuous 
patrol is maintained by the local police of the grounds immediately surrounding the 
mansion. As an additional safeguard, automatic alarm signals are fixed in different 
parts of the house, and there are telephones and telegraphs to the military posts, so 
that a strong force of police and soldiers could be obtained almost at a moment's notice. 
The inadequacy of the White House as a residence for the President of the United 
States has long been recognized. It is crowded, inconvenient, and whcUy unadapted 

to such dignity and occasions of public ceremony as the nation demands 
A New of its chief. There is not even accommodation for visitors, so that guests 

White House, of the nation must be sent to a hotel. Many suggestions and more or 

less elaborate plans have been made for a new and proper President's 
residence, which should be entirely separate from the Executive offices, for which the 
present White House might properly be reserved. Most of these proposals contemplate 
a magnificent edifice on Meridian Hill, 200 feet in elevation, at the head of Sixteenth 
Street. One such proposition, designed by Mary Henderson Foote and Paul J. Pelz, is 
illustrated herewith. It proposes a building in an ornate American adaptation of the 
Roman classic style of architecture, and constructed of white marble, with grand 
approaches. The west wing would be devoted to the home of the President's family, 
and the east wing to suitable accommodation for the nation's guests; while the central 
part, and the ground floor of the east wing, extended by elaborate conservatories, would 
be devoted to a series of state apartments, in which grand ceremonies and entertainments 
might be adequately arranged and carried out. 





1 1' 




-tmrfTffwi I li ^tn . ^ ' ^% - . fSr-tYf^tn 



jiilFrfiiT-f^fiitfe^ 






PROPOSED EXECUTIVE MANSION. — Paul J. Pelz, Architect. 



VII. 
THE EXECUTIVE DEPARTMENTS. 

The Executive Departments are those over which the Cabinet officers preside, and in 
which the daily administration of the Government is carried on. There have not 
alwaj's been so many, nor have they always been known by their present names ; and it 
is only recently, under the law of 1886, prescribing the order of succession to the 
Presidency, that any authoritative sequence could be observed in the list, which is now 
as follows: 

The Department of State, presided over by the Honorable the Secretary of State. 

The Treasury Department, the Secretary of the Treasury. 

The War Department, the Secretary of War. List of 

The Department of Justice, the Attorney-General. Departments. 

The Post Office Department, the Postmaster-General. 

The Navy Department, the Secretary of the Navy. 

The Department of the Interior, the Secretary of the Interior. 

The Department of Agriculture, the Secretary of Agriculture. 

All these are situated in the immediate neighborhood of the Executive Mansion, 
except those of the Post Office, Interior, and Agriculture. 

The Departments are the business offices of the Government, and "politics" has much 
less to do with their practical conduct than the popular clamor would lead one to sup- 
pose. The occasional shirk or blatherskite makes himself noticed, but the average 
employe, from head to foot of the list, faithfully attends to his business and does 
his work. This must be so, or the business of the nation could not be carried on ; and 
otherwise, men and women would not grow gray in its service, as they are doing, 
because their fidelity and skill can not be spared so long as their strength holds out. 
Year by year, with the growth of intelligence and the extension of the civil service idea 
and practice, "politics" has less and less to do with the practical administration of the 
business of the nation at its capital ; and year by year, better and more economical 
methods and results are achieved. No civil pensions have yet been established as the 
further reward of long and faithful service. 

The Department of State stands first on the list, and occupies the south and noblest 
front of the State, War, and Navy Building — that towering pile of granite west of the 
White House, which has been so honestly admired by the populace and 
so often condemned by critics. The architect was A. B. Mullet, who had Department 
a great fondness for the "Italian renaissance," as is shown by the post of State. 

offices of New York and Boston, and by other public edifices executed 
while he was supervising architect of the Treasury. This building is 471 feet long by 
253 feet wide, and surrounds a paved courtyard containing engine-houses, etc. It is 
built, outwardly, of granite from Virginia and Maine, and the four facades are substan- 
tially alike, though the south front, where space and slope of the ground favors, lias a 
grander entrance than the other sides. The building was begun in 1871 and not wholly 
finished until 1893, covers four and a half acres, contains two miles of corridors, and 
cost $10,700,000. It is in charge of a superintendent, responsible to a commission com- 
posed of the three Secretaries occupying it. 

99 



100 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 

All of the apartments of the "foreign office" are elegant, and one fancies he sees a 
•rreater formality and dignity, as certainly there is more of studious quiet, here than in 
any other department. The Secretary and assistant secretaries occupy a 
foreign line of handsome offices in the second story, looking southward across 

Office. the park, among which is the long and stately room assigned to confer- 

ences with representatives of foreign governments, or similar meetings, 
and hence called the Diplomatic Room. An opportunity to inspect this should be 
accepted, if only to obtain a sight of the likenesses of the past Secretaries of State, with 
which its walls are almost covered. All of these portraits are by men of talent, and 
some are of superior merit : That of Clay, by E. D. Marchant, and those of Fish and 
Frelinghuysen, by Huntington, are especially praised. Lord Ashburton is here also, 
beside Webster — his great coadjutor in the adjudication of the boundary between the 
United States and Canada. This room, the furniture, rugs, and hangings of which are 
dark and elegant, is said to have been arranged by Secretary Hamilton Fish. Near by 
is another elegant apartment — the Diplomatic Ante-room, where foreign dignitaries 
await audience with the premier. 

The show room of the department, however, is the library, in spite of the fact that 
several curious objects formerly exhibited there are no longer on view. 

The precious original drafts of the Declaration of Independence and of the Constitu- 
tion were disintegrating and fading under exposure to the light, and have been shut up 
in a steel safe, after having been hermetically sealed between plates of 
"State" glass, which arrangement, it is hoped, will stop their decay. A precise 

Library facsimile of the Declaration, made about 1820, hangs upon the library 

and Relics. wall. The Great Seal and certain curious early treaties of oriental and 
bar])arous states are no longer exhibited. Here may be seen, however, 
the war sword of Washington — the identical weapon he was accustomed to wear in 
camp and campaign ; and the sword of Jackson, at New Orleans — broken, to be sure, 
but mended by a skillful armorer, and not by himself at a blacksmith's forge, as the old 
story relates. Jefferson's writing-desk (at which, tradition says, the Declaration of 
Independence was drafted), Franklin's staff and buttons from his court dress, a lor- 
gnette given by Washington to Lafayette, a copy of the Pekin Gazette, which has been 
printed continutnisly, as a daily newspaper, since the eighth century, and several other 
personal relics and historical curiosities will reward the visitor. 

The library itself is a very notable one, equal to those of the governments of Great 
Britain and France in importance as a collection of books of international law and 
diplomacy. Cognate works, such as biographies, histories, and travels of a certain sort, 
supplement this central collection, and the whole now includes some 60,000 volumes. 
Its purpose is to serve as a reference library for the department. It also includes a 
great quantity of the papers of public men of the past, which have been acquired by 
purchase or otherwise, and are distinct from the correspondence archives of the depart- 
ment. For the papers of Washington (bound into 330 volumes) $45,000 was paid in 
1834 and 1849 ; for the ISIadison papers (75 vols., 1848) $35,000 ; for the Jefferson MSS. 
(137 vols., 1S48) $20,000; and for the JMonroe papers (22 vols., 1849) $20,000. More 
recently have been accjuired the papers of Hamilton (65 vols.), of Benjamin Franklin 
(32 vols., $35,000), and extensive records of the Revolutionary army. 

The War Department has quarters in the same great building, occupying the west- 
ern and part of the northern front, as is indicated by the cannons lying upon the but- 
tresses of the porches. The Secretary and Assistant Secretary of War, 
War Office, the General of the army, and several military bureaus have their offices 
there, but none of them are open, of course, to the casual visitor. At 
the head of the staircase, near the northwestern corner, are models of certain arms and 



102 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 

ordnance, and of wagons, ambulances, etc. , and also two showcases of life-size lay fig- 
ures exhibiting the uniforms of various ranks in the Revolutionary army. The wall of 
the staircase is embellished with portraits of past Secretaries, and in the corridor and 
ante-rooms of the Secretary's office are other paintings, including grand portraits of 
Grant, Sherman, and Sheridan, by Daniel C. Huntington. The Washington portrait 
here is one of Stuart's copies from his original study. 

The old Winder building, on the opposite side of Seventeenth Street, erected many 
years ago by Gen. Wm. H. Winder, an army officer who distinguished himself in the 
early part of the War of 1812, and commanded the troops here in 1814, was intended 
for a hotel. It was taken for offices of the War Department, however, and has been so 
occupied ever since. In it General Halleck had his office and the staff headquarters of 
the army during the Civil War, Secretary Stanton's office being in the building demol- 
ished to make room for the present structure. 

General Grant's Headquarters, when, after the war, he lived in 
Grant's Washington in command of the army, were in the large house with the 

Head- high stoop on the opposite or southeast corner of Seventeenth and F 

quarters. streets. It is now a private residence. McClellan's headquarters during 

the early half of the war were at the northeast corner of Lafayette 
Square, now the Cosmos clubhouse. 

The Navy Department has possession of the remaining third of the building, with an 
entrance facing the White House, signified by anchors upon the portico. The Secretary 
and Assistant Secretary preside over ten bureaus, whose chiefs are detailed officers of 
the navy. These are : 

1. Bureau of Navigation, having the practical control of the ships and men in actual 
service, and including the Hydrographic Office and Naval Academy at Annapolis, but 
not the War College at Newport. 2. Bureau of Yards and Docks. 3. 
Bureaus of Bureau of Equipment, which has charge, among other things, of the 
the Navy. Naval Observatory, the Nautical Almanac, and the Compass Office. 

4. Bureau of Ordnance. 5. Bureau of Construction and Repair. 6. 
Bureau of Steam Engineering. 7. Bureau of Medicine and Surgery, under whose 
supervision is maintained a Museum of Hygiene, in the Old Naval Observatory, which 
is interesting to specialists. 8. Bureau of Supplies and Accounts (but the Navy Pay 
Office is at No. 1729 New York Avenue). 9. Office of the Judge Advocate General — 
the department's law officer. 10. Office of the Commandant of the Marine Corps, who 
is responsible directly to the Secretary of the Navy. By the time a ship is built, 
equipped, armed, and manned, she has gone through every one of these bureaus, and 
must have had a good pilot if she escaped being dashed to pieces against some of their 
regulations, or crushed by collision of authority between their chiefs. 

The models of ships, on view in the corridor near the entrance and on the next floor 
above, form an exhibit of great interest, graphically displaying the difference between 
the early wooden frigates and line-of-battle ships and the modern steel 
IModelS. cruisers and turreted men-of-war. These models ought not to be over- 

looked ; the library, also, is well worth attention, on account of the por- 
traits of departed Secretaries, as well as for the sake of its professional books. 

The financial department and the actual treasury of the Government are housed in the 
imposing but somewhat gloomy building which closes the vista up Pennsylvania Avenue 
from the Capitol, and which nearly adjoins the White House park on the 
Treasury east. This structure, which, suitably to the alleged American worship 

Building. of money, has been given the form of a pagan temple, is of the Ionic- 

Greek order of architecture modified to suit local requirements. The 
main building, with its long pillared front on Fifteenth Street, was erected of Virginia 



104 PICTOEIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 

sandstone, after plans by Robert Mills, and completed in 1841. Some years later exten- 
sions were undertaken under the architectural direction of Thomas U. Walter, which 
enlarged the building greatly, produced the magnificent granite porticos at each end, 
and resulted in the beautifully designed western fagade. The whole building, completed 
in 1869, is 4G6 feet long and 264 wide exclusive of the porticos, incloses two courts, and 
has cost about $10,000,000. 

The Treasury is a place every stranger visits. The building is open fi'om 9 till 
2 ; and between 11 and 13 and 1 and 2 o'clock, persons who assemble at the office of 
the Treasurer are formed into parties, and conducted to the doors of certain rooms, where 
the guides volubly explain the work in progress there. 

Thus you may see the girls counting and recounting the sheets of specially made paper 
upon which all the United States bonds, notes, and revenue stamps are printed ; this is 
the beginning of the long routine of " money making," and not one must 
Paper for go unaccounted for. This paper is made of components and by a com- 
SecuritiCS. position which is a secret between the Government and the manufac- 
turers at Dalton, near Pittsfield, ]Mass. It is especially distinguished by 
the silk fibers interwoven with its texture, and, as a part of the monopoly of the manu- 
facture of United States money retained by the Federal Government, the possession 
of any such paper by private persons is prohibited under severe penalties, as prima facie 
evidence of intent to defraud. The packages of 1,000 sheets, each of the proper size for 
printing four notes, are deftly counted and carefully examined by young women, whom 
long practice has made wonderfully expert. When every imperfect sheet has been picked 
out and replaced by a good one, the packages are sent to the printer (see Bureau of 
Engraving and Printing). 

Next you may be shown the large room to which piles of similar sheets, printed with 
the faces and backs of notes of various denominations from $1 to $1,000, have been 
returned, to receive here, upon small steam presses, the red seal, which 
Treasury completes the value of the paper as a promise to pay. 

Notes. These notes, to the amount of about $1,000,000 in value, on the average, 

are brought over from the Bureau of Engraving and Printing each morn- 
ing, being conveyed in a steel-encased wagon, guarded by armed messengers. They are 
first counted by three persons in succession, to reduce to the vanishing point the proba- 
bility of error, and then are sent to the sealing-room mentioned above, where the sheets 
of four unseparated notes are passed through the small steam presses that place upon 
them the red seal of the Treasury of North America, or, as it is written in abbreviated 
Latin upon the seal itself : Thesaur. Amer. Septent. Sigil. 

United States Treasury notes bear the engraved facsimiles of the signatures of the 
United States Treasurer and the Register of the Treasury; but national bank notes are 
actually signed in ink by the president and cashier of the bank issuing them. The latter 
are sent to the banks and receive these signatures before receiving the red seal, for 
which purpose they must be returned here, the banks defraying the express charges. 

It is in the room adjoining this that the visitor sees that marvelous development of 
the human hand and eye which enables the ladies intrusted with the final coiuiting of 
Uncle Sam's paper money to do so with a rapidity that is absolutely 
Cutting^ the bewildering to the beholder. As soon as the seals have been printed upon 
Sheets. a package of 1,000 sheets of notes, these are taken to another little 

machine, which slices them apart, replacing the hand shears, to whose 
use, in General Spinner's day, according to tradition, is due the introduction of female 
assistance in the departmental service. This produces 4, 000 notes which are tied up 
into a standard " package," and laid upon the table of the first clerk to whom they go 
for final inspection and counting. Untying a package and holding it by her left hand. 



THE EXECUTIVE DEPARTMENTS. 105 

with the face of the notes upward, she lifts the right hand end of every one of the 4,000 
notes, scans it for imperfections in texture, printing, sealing, or cutting, sees that it is 
numbered in due order, and that none is missing. 

That all this can be done, and done day after day and month after month, with 
unwearied vigilance, discernment, and accuracy, is sufficiently extraordinary — since 
habitual application to routine work is likely to breed not only careless- 
ness, but a sort of mental blindness ; but when to this is added a speed so Expert 
extraordinary that a counter passes on the average 32,000 notes each work- Counting^. 
ing-day, the performance becomes one of the most wonderful in the range 
of human industry. It would seem that the eye could scarcely form an image in the 
brain of any single note as it flies through the fingers, yet so trained and sensitive have 
these women become, that the slightest irregularity of form or color is noted, and each 
imperfect note is rejected, destroyed, and replaced by a perfect one from a reserve 
Bupply. 

The rapid countmg is facilitated — only made possible, in truth — by the fact that 
the notes, as they fall from the cutting machine, lie in exact rotation of numbers (in the 
upper right-hand corner), so that the counter need only take cognizance of the final unit, 
sure that as long as these run continuously there is no mistake. Having observed, for 
example, that her package began 87,654,320, that the units were repeated continuously 
in order, 1, 2, 8, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 1, 2, 3, 4, etc., and the package ended 87,658,320, the 
counter could be sure it was full and regular. To guard against any possible mistake, 
however, these packages go through the hands of five successive counters before the 
last of the fifty-two countings to which the sheets and notes are subjected is concluded, 
and the notes are ready for issue. Each person to whom the packages are temporarily 
intrusted is obliged to receipt for them, so that their history may be traced from the 
paper mills to the cashier's desk. 

Each package, as it comes from the last counter, contains 4,000 notes ; but as these may 
vary from $1 to $1,000 in denomination, the value of the package may be $4,000, $8,000, 
$20,000, $40,000, $80,000, $400,000, or $4,000,000. Each package is now wrapped in 
brown paper, sealed with wax impressed with the Treasury seal, and placed in the 
currency reserve vault of the cashier of the department of issue ; and the amount 
receipted for by the keeper of the vault (averaging $1,000,000 a day) must correspond 
each evening exactly with the amount received the same morning from the Bureau of 
Engraving and Printing. 

These pretty notes, the representatives of the hard cash stored in the vaults, reach the 
public only through the Cash Room, a large apartment on the main floor, walled with a 
great variety of exquisite native and foreign marbles, and provided with 
a public gallery, whence all its operations may be overlooked ; but vis- Cash RoOdl. 
itors ought to keep very quiet. Here tightly bound packages of notes of 
a single denomination, each containing 4,000 bills, are prepared for shipment to the sub- 
treasuries and other financial agents of the Government, or, with the loose cash needed, 
are paid out over the counter. The business is that of an ordinary bank, or, rather, of 
an extraordinary one, for checks of enormous value are frequently cashed here — one 
reaching as high as $10,000,000. 

When the various legal-tender notes (greenbacks, silver certificates, treasury notes, or 
gold certificates) are sent in for redemption, they go into the redemption division, where 
they are counted and sorted into packages — again by the quick fingers 
of women. These packages are then irretrievably mutilated by punches, Redemption 
sliced lengthwise, and each half is counted separately by other clerks. Office. 

If all proves to be right (an error is quickly traceable), a receipt is given, 
enabling the cashier to give back new notes in exchange for the old ones, or reissue to 



106 



PICTOEIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON". 



the public in coin, an amount equal to what has been presented that day for redemption. 
Sometimes the mere fragments, or soaked or charred remains, of bank notes are sent in, 
but if the evidence of good faith satisfies the chief, and the amount can be verified, 
crisp, new notes are sent to the owner in return. 

This opens a door for fraud, which rascals have tried to enter, but they have rarely 
succeeded. In the office of the present United States Treasurer, alongside his little 
receipt to his predecessor for $750,000,000, or thereabouts, the amount taken into custody 
by him, may be seen, framed, what purports to be a $500 bill, made up of sixteen pieces 
cut from various parts of sixteen other genuine f 500 bills which had been sent in and 
redeemed as "mutilated." These reserved fragments, combined, made a seventeenth 
bill, which perhaps might have been accepted also, had it been less clumsily fabricated. 

Finally, the old bills, punched and cut in two (see above), are sent to carefully 
guarded maceraters — one in the Treasury Building for the destruction of the old 
national bank notes, and another for the destruction of United States notes, at the 
Bureau of Engraving and Printing ; there they are ground into wet pulp by means of 
machines called maceraters. 




CURRENCY DESTRUCTION COMMITTEE. 

The maceraters are globe-shaped receptacles of steel, having the capacity of a ton of 
pulp, the top of which opens by a lid secured by three different Yale locks. The Secre- 
tary of the Treasury has the key of one lock, the Treasurer that of 
IMaceration. another, and the Comptroller of the Treasury the third. Each day at 
1 V. M., these officials or their representatives, with a fourth agent to rep- 
resent the people and banks, open the macerater, and place within it the million dollars 
or so of condemned currency or other securities which is to be destroyed, together with p 
suitable (juantity of water. The lid is then locked in the three places, and machinery 
begins to whirl around inside of the macerater a series of 150 knives which grind and 
cut the soaking material until the notes are reduced to shreds and useless pulp. Once 



THE EXECUTIVE DEPARTMENTS. 107 

in four or five days the committee unlocks a valve and lets the accumulated pulp run 
out into screening receptacles. It is thence taken to the Bureau of Engraviug and 
Printing, where it is rolled and dried into thick sheets and sold. Samples of it, now 
and then, are disposed of to be made into the queer little figures sold as curiosities and 
"supposed to contain " a hundred thousand dollars or so. 

On one of the upper floors the Life-saving Service has a series of models and 
specimens of the apparatus used in saving the lives of shipwrecked marines, which can 
usually be seen ; in the office of the Supervising Architect are many 
" highly executed drawings of elevations and plans of the public build- Branches Of 
ings erected by the United States, interesting to architects and civil the Treasury. 
engineers;" the Department library has 20,000 volumes, and is open 
to visitors ; and, lastly, a proper introduction will enable the visitor who is curious in 
criminal matters to inspect the rogues' gallery and police museum of the Secret Service, 
which deals with counterfeiters, smugglers, "moonshiners" or illicit distillers. 

The Department of Justice and the Court of Claims, which attend to suits against 
the Government, and give legal advice to its oflBcers, occupy rented quarters, having 
no building of their own. The former is on K Street, between Vermont 
Avenue and Fifteenth Street, where the Attorney-General has his office. Justice. 

The Court of Claims occupies the old Corcoran Gallery at Pennsylvania 
Avenue and Seventeenth Street. 

The General Post Office began in a postal system organized in the American colonies 
as early as 1692 by patent to Thomas Neale. This expired in 1710, when the English 
postal system was extended to the colonies, and it slowly grew until, in 1753, Benjamin 
Franklin was appointed Deputy Postmaster-General for the Colonies. The Revolution 
overthrew the royal mail, but when peace came the Continental Congress established 
a new system, and put Franklin again in charge of the first United States mails. Postage 
stamps were not adopted by the Government until 1847, and until lately were printed by 
private contractors, but are now made at the Bureau of Engraving and Printing. The 
first building for this department was burned in 1836. The next one, occupied for 
man}" years until the end of the century, was the Corinthian structure on Seventh Sft'eet, 
next the Patent Office, now a part of the Department of the Interior. \ 

The present Post Office is a modern structure on the south side of Pennsylvania 
Avenue, between Eleventh and Twelfth streets, which contains both the General 
Department and the City Post Office. 

This building was authorized by Congress in 1890, and the site was Post Office. 
purchased in 1891 at a cost of $850,000. The designs were made in the 
office of the Supervising Architect of the Treasury, and executed under its direction to 
the completion of the building in 1899. In st5ie it is modified Romanesque, surmounted 
by a lofty, square clock tower. The principal material is granite from Fox Island, 
Maine, with steel columns and beams for the interior framework. The finish is in 
marble from Tennessee and Vermont, varied by Red African and mottled Italian 
marbles, with quartered oak and mahogany for the woodwork. The building measures 
305 feet long by 200 feet wide, and encloses a court, roofed over by a skylight 180 feet 
long by 99 feet wide. An interior skylight covers the court at the height of the first 
story, forming an immense room for the accommodation of the City Post Office. The 
total cost of the whole building was $3,325,000. 

The nine upper floors are devoted to the business of the Postmaster-General and 
his department. These are open to the public from 9 a. m. until 2 p. m., n^r.^ ■ Aff«|- 
but contain nothing of interest except the museum of the Dead Letter Office 

Office, which occupies Room 223 on the first floor above the street — 
Twelfth Street side — and is open daily from 9 a. m. to 4 p. m. This is the bureau of the 



108 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 

department which receives and handles all mail that can not be delivered to its intended 
recipients, by reason of lack of superscription, or improper or undecipherable addressing, 
or because not called for within a reasonable time. Six or seven million pieces of lost 
mail are thus returned to this office annually, and examined. If any clew to the writer, 
or owner, or addressee can be found, the letter or package is at once sent to one or the 
other of these persons. Newspapers are destroyed. Unidentified packages containing 
any article of value are recorded and laid aside for six months, at the expiration of 
which time they are sold at auction, and the money received is turned into the Treasury. 
The Museum of the Dead Letter Office is a collection of the extraordinary objects 
sent through the mails, and also of objects and papers identified with the postal his- 
tory of the country. The most striking exhibit, perhaps, is a great 
IMUseum of collection of uncanceled postage stamps of foreign countries, includ- 
Dead Letter ing stamped envelopes and post-cards, which have been sent to the 
Office. American Post Ofiice Department by foreign postal authorities. They 

are elegantly arranged in swinging frames, the various sets embellished 
by artistic borders and other ornaments. There are also complete sets of American 
stamps, and philatelists will view these collections with extreme interest, and estimate 
them at a very high money value. Other swinging frames contain pictures of the 
finest post offices in this country and abroad. More curious is a large series of small, 
life-like models showing the dress and accouterments of postmen in India, China, 
Persia, Japan, and other far Eastern countries. A series of the various locks and 
keys used for mail bags is shown; also the evolution of canceling stamps. Early 
records of the Post Office fill one case, among them a set of accounts kept by Benja- 
min Franklin while Colonial Postmaster-General in 1753; also, in his handwriting, 
the earliest record of the Dead Letter Office, date 1778. The stuffed skin of " Owney," 
the nondescript, shaggy dog who for several years spent his time traveling all over 
this and other countries in postal cars, or loitering about post offices, is preserved in one 
case ; it was the fashion to give him a "medal," in the form of a baggage check or some 
similar ornament, wherever he went, and all these are hung about his body. 

The most extraordinary part of the little museum, however, consists of the miscel- 
laneous objects that have been lost in the mails, the variety of which is endless, 
and many of which are so odd as to provoke laughter. All sorts 
Queer of small animals, stuffed, dried, in alcohol, and otherwise preserved. 

Things Lost are here ; a human skull and many bones ; surgical instruments and 
in the IMailS. medicines in abundance, besides a great array of pistols, knives, and 
other death-dealing implements. Books have been gathered by thou- 
sands, and some of those saved for show here include valuable volumes in many 
foreign languages, including Arabic, Chinese, and the raised text for the blind. Dolls 
and toys enough to furnish half a dozen kindergartens might be taken from here, 
and, in short, it would be hard to find a path of industry or a region of pleasure 
or profit of which some reminder might not be found among this queer conglomer- 
ation of lost property. 

The City Post Office is open to the public at all hours of the day or 
City night ; and its furnishings embody the latest improvements in postal 

Post Office, methods. An Information Office is open during the day in the north- 
west corner of the ground floor. 
The Department of the Interior, whose principal building is popularly known as the 
Patent Office, manages internal or domestic affairs — the relations of our own people 
with the Government. Hence the Secretary of the Interior is charged 
Interior with the supervision of public business relating to patents for inventions, 

Department, pensions, and bounty lands, the public lands and surveys, the Indians, 











NEW GENERAL POST OFFICE.— Pennsylvania Avenue, Eleventh and Twelfth Streets. 



110 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 

education, railroads, the geological survey, the census, the national parks, reservations, 
and various of the public institutions, and Territories. 

The Secretary and his assistants have their offices in the great Doric- 
Patent Greek building, covering the two squares reaching from Seventh to Ninth 
Office. streets, between F and G, which everybody calls the Patent Office, 

because designed for and mainly occupied by that bureau. 
The Hall of Models is still a spacious room on the main floor, but the removal of the 
historical relics to the National Museum, and the fire of 1877, which destroyed 87,000 
models and some 600,000 drawings, etc., have left little worth looking at. The office 
has issued thus far about 600,000 patents, and its earnings have been far in excess of 
the cost of buildings and all expenses since its origin. 

Another prominent branch of the Interior Department is the Pension Bureau. This 
occupies an immense red-brick building, 400 by 200 feet in dimensions and four stories 

high, standing in Judiciary Square, on G Street, between Fourth and 
Pension Fifth, and looking like a cotton factory without and a prison within. It 

Office. has two gable roofs set crosswise and largely composed of glass, lighting 

the vast interior court. The structure is said to be fireproof — a state- 
ment which caused General Sheridan to exclaim, "What a pity !" A band of terra 
.cotta, forming an ornamental frieze around the exterior of the building, just above the 
first story windows, portrays a procession of spirited marching figures of soldiers of 
the late war — horse, foot, and dragoons. This is the only artistic thing about the 
building, and is worthy of a better setting. The offices, however, are more commodi- 
ous and comfortable than many in more ornate edifices, and open upon tiers of galleries 
that surround all sides of a great tiled court. This court is broken by two cross-rows 
of colossal columns and lofty arches sustaining the central part of the roof and painted 
in imitation of Siena marble, while the lower gallery rests upon a colonnade of iron 
pillars, speckled counterfeits of Tennessee marble. The floor of the court is well filled 
with cases of drawers containing the papers of applicants for pensions, or an increase, 
so tidily arranged that the file of each man can be referred to without delay. It is very 
helpful, however, to know the registry number of the case, which is borne by every 
paper pertaining to it. The cases on file exceed a million ; about 1,000,000 beneficiaries 
are carried on the rolls, and the outlay of the bureau is now about $145,000,000 a year. 
Over 1,800 persons, one-sixth of whom are women, are employed here, but room is left 
for offices for the Railroad Commissioners on the third floor. The United States Pen- 
sion Agency, where local pensioners are paid, is at No. 308 F Street. 

The spacious covered court of this building has been used on the last three occasions 
for the giving of the inaugural ball, which custom decrees shall take place on the even- 
ing of the day each new President is ushered into office. In the early 
InaUg^Ural days, when the minuet, stiff brocades, and powdered hair were still fash- 
Balls. ionable, these were affairs as elegant and enjoyable as they were select 

and stately; but latterly the number of officials and their families 
properly entitled to attend such a semi-official function has become so great, and the 
crowd who are able to buy tickets is so much greater, that no system of restriction thus 
far devised has been successful in keeping this ball down to a manageable size. It is 
said that 17,000 persons were crushed into the court of the Pension Office Building at 
the inaugural ball of March 4, 1885, and the crowds since have prevented any dancing 
or other real enjoyment of the festivities, which resulted only in injury to health, costly 

toilets, and the building. 
Census Office. The Census Bureau, charged with making the decennial census, was 

placed in 1899 in a rented building, erected for its purposes, which 
occupies half a square on B Street, between First and Second. It is a low, 



THE EXECUTIVE DEPAETMENTS. 



Ill 




THE PATENT OFFICE.— F Street, N. W. Seventh to Ninth Streets. 




THE PENSION OFFICE —Judiciary Square, Fourth, Fifth, and G Streets, N. W. 



112 



PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 




brick structure 
without any arch- 
itectural preten- 
sions, and no vis- 
itors are admitted 
to its busy offices. 
The General 
Land Office, 

Land and 

Indian 

Offices. 

which is charged 

with the survey, 

management, and THE CENSUS bureau. 

sale of the public domain, has quarters in the old Post Office building on Seventh Street, 

which in 1899 became an annex of the Interior Department. Here, also, are the offices 

of the Commissioner of Indian Affairs. The office of the Commissioner of Education 

is near by, at the northeast corner of Eighth and G streets, where an extensive library 

of pedagogy is open to the inspection of teachers. The Geological Survey has fine offices 

in the Hooe Building, 1330 F Street. 

Certain other branches of the Government, not under departmental control but 
responsible directly to Congress, may be briefly spoken of here. 

The Smithsonian Institution is the most important of these, and is elsewhere described. 

The Government Printing Office, whose chief is styled " the Public Printer," is the 
place where the Congressional Record, or report of the daily proceedings of Congress, is 
printed; also all the public and private bills and documents for Congress, 
Government the yearly departmental reports, and the enormous mass of miscellaneous 
Frintittg publications of the Government. It is located on North Capitol and H 

Office. streets ; 2,900 persons are employed during the congressional session and 

about 2,700 at other periods, and it is said to be the largest printing 
office in the world. Everything connected with the making of books can be done there, 
and the highest degree of excellence in printing and binding may be reached. It is run 
under very systematic methods. 

The Department of Labor, controlled by a commissioner, collects and publishes use- 
ful information on subjects connected with labor, promoting the material, social, intel- 
lectual, and moral prosperity of men and women who live by their daily earnings. It 
publishes an annual report, largely statistical. The office is in the National Safe Deposit 
Building at New York Avenue and Fifteenth Street. 

The Civil Service Commission makes and supervises all regulations and 
Civil Service, examinations respecting applicants for employment in the Government 
service in those classes under the civil service law. It has offices in the 
Concordia Building, Eighth and E streets. 

The Bureau of American Republics, whose purpose it is to promote trade, intelli- 
gence, and comity among all the American republics, have offices at No. 2 Jackson Place, 
at the southwest corner of Lafayette Square. 

The Free Public Library has made a beginning at No. 1326 New York Avenue, 
pending the erection of the building in Mount Vernon Squaie, to be given to the city 
for its accommodation by Andrew Carnegie. 



VIII. 
FEOM THE MONUMENT TO THE MUSEUMS. 

The Washington Monument. 

The dignity, symmetry, and towering height of Washington's character, as it now 
presents itself to the minds of his countrymen, are well exemplified in the majestic 
siLiplicity of his monument in Washington. This pure and glittering shaft, asking no 
aid from inscription or ornament, strikes up into heaven and leads the thought to a 
patriotism as spotless and a manhood as lofty as any American has attained to. It is the 
glory and grandeur of this superb monument that it typifies and recalls 
not Washington the man, but Washington the character. It is really a Grandeur. 
monument to the American people in the name of their foremost repre- 
sentative. It is in itself a constantly beautiful object, intensified, unconsciously to the 
beholder, perhaps, by the symbolism and sentiment it involves. With every varying 
mood of the changing air and sky, or time of day, it assumes some new phase of 
interest to the eye. Now it is clear and firm against the blue — hard, sharp-edged, cold, 
near at hand ; anon it withdraws and softens and seems to tremble in a lambent envelope 
of azure ether, or to swim in a golden mist as its shadow, like that of a mighty dial, 
marks the approach of sunset upon the greensward that rolls eastward from its base. 
The most picturesque view of it, doubtless, is that from the east, where you may 
"compose" it in the distance of a picture, for which the trees and shrubbery, winding- 
roads and Norman towers, of the Smithsonian park form the most artistic of foregrounds. 

This monument is the realization of a popular movement for a national memorial to 
Washington which began before his death, so that he was enabled to indicate his own 
preference for this site, and was expressed in a congressional resolution in 
1799, which contemplated an equestrian statue. The death of Washington History. 

revived the matter, and a bill appropriating $150,000 for a mausoleum 
passed both houses, but was mislaid and not signed at the close of the session. The next 
Congress was made up of Washington's political opponents, and his monument was no 
more heard of until an association was formed, headed by the President of the United States 
ex officio, which undertook to retrieve what it considered a national disgrace, and raised 
a large sum of money for the purpose. This site was obtained, the corner-stone was laid 
with impressive ceremonies on the 4th of July, 1848, and the work progressed until the 
shaft had reached a height of 150 feet, when the funds gave out. The coming of the 
Civil War turned men's attention elsewhere, but interest was revived by the wave of 
patriotism developed by the Centennial year, under the influence of which Congress 
agreed to finish the shaft. To Gen. T. L. Casey, Chief of Engineers, U. S. A., was 
intrusted the task of enlarging and strengthening the foundations — a most diflicult piece 
of engineering which he accomplished with consummate skill. The foundations are 
described as constructed of a mass of solid blue rock, 146 feet square. " The base of 
shaft is 55 feet square, and the lower walls are 15 feet thick. At the five-hundred-feet 
elevation, where the pyramidal top begins, the walls are only 18 inches 
thick and about 35 feet square. The inside of the walls, as far as they Dimensions. 
were constructed before the work was undertaken by the Government in 
1878 — 150 feet from the base — is of blue granite, not laid in courses. From this point 

115 



116 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 

to within a short distance of the beginning of the top or roof, the inside of the walls is 
of regular courses of granite, corresponding with the courses of marble on the outside. 
For the top marble is entirely used. The marble blocks were cut or 'dressed' in the 
most careful manner, and laid in courses of two feet by experienced and skillful work- 
men. There is no 'filling' or 'backing' between the granite and marble blocks, but 
they are all closely joined, the work being declared ' the best piece of masonry in the 
world.' By a plumb line suspended from the top of the monument inside, not three- 
eighths of an inch deflection has been noticed. . . . The keystone that binds the interior 
ribs of stone that support the marble facing of the pyramidal cap of the monument, 
weighs nearly five tons. It is 4 feet 6 inches high, and 3 feet 6 inches square at the top. 
. . . On the 6th day of December, 1884, the capstone, which completed the shaft, was 
set. The capstone is 5 feet 2^ inches in height, and its base is somewhat more than three 
feet square. At its cap, or peak, it is five inches in diameter. On the cap was placed a 
tip or point of aluminum, a composition metal which resembles polished silver, and 
which was selected because of its lightness and freedom from oxidation, and because it 
will always remain bright." 

The original design, prepared by Robert Mills, contemplated a shaft 600 feet in 
height, rising from a colonnaded circular memorial hall, which was to contain statues of 
the nation's worthies and paintings of great scenes in its history, "while the crypt 
beneath would serve as a burial place for those whom the people should especially 
honor." This plan has been definitely abandoned. 

A staircase of 900 steps winds its way to the top, around an interior shaft of iron 
pillars, in which the elevator runs ; few people walk up, but many descend that way, in 
order to examine more carefully the inscribed memorial blocks which are 
Interior. set into the interior wall at various places. Within the shaft formed by 

the interior iron framework runs an elevator, making a trip every half 
hour, and carrying, if need be, thirty persons. As this elevator and its ropes are of 
unusual strength, and were severely tested by use in elevating the stone required for 
the upper courses as the structure progressed, its safety need not be suspected. The 
elevator is lighted by electricity and carries a telephone. Seven minutes are required 
for the ascent of 500 feet ; and one can see, as it passes, all the inscriptions and carvings 
sufficiently well to satisfy the curiosity of most persons, as none of those memorials 
have any artistic excellence. Several not embedded in the walls are shown in the 
National Museum. An officer in charge of the lloor marshals visitors into the elevator, 
and another cares for the observatory floor at the top ; but no fees are expected. The 
surrounding grounds form Washington Park. 

The view from the eight small windows, which open through the pyramidon, or 
sloping summit of the obelisk, 517 feet above the ground, includes a circle of level 
country having a radius of from fifteen to twenty miles, and southwest 
View from extends still farther, for in clear weather the Blue Ridge is well defined 
the Top. iu that direction. The Potomac is in sight from up near Chain Bridge 

down to far below Mount Vernon ; and the whole district lies unrolled 
beneath you like a map. To climb the AVashiugton Monument is, therefore, an excel- 
lent method of beginning an intelligent survey of the capital, and of "getting one's 
bearings." > 

Looking first toward the north, the most compact part of the city is surveyed. 
At the very foot of the monument are the artificial Carp Ponds, so called because, 
years ago, the Fisheries Commission propagated European carp for distribution there. 
Beyond, in the center-foreground, are the grounds of the Executive Mansion, rising 
in a gentle slope to the White House. On its left stands the State, War, and Navy 
Building ; and to the left of that (and nearer) is the marble front of the Corcoran 




THE WASHINGTON MONUMENT.— Height, 555>i Feet. 



118 PICTOEIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 

Art Gallery, on Seventeenth Street, and beyond that is seen the old Octagon House, 
on a straight line with the Naval Observatory, conspicuous in white paint and yellow 
domes, three miles away amid the green hills beyond Georgetown. Nearer the water 
than any of these is a large yellow house among the trees — the Van Ness mansion, one 
of the first costly residences built in Washington. 

Connecticut Avenue is the street leading from the White House straight northwest 
to the boundary, where it breaks into the fashionable suburban parks on Meridian Hill, 
at the left of which are the wooded vales of Rock Creek, near which 
Northwestern the noble Anglican Cathedral is to arise. At the right of the White 
Outlook. House is the Treasury, here seen to inclose two great courts. The 

lines of Seventeenth, Sixteenth, Fifteenth streets, and of Vermont 
Avenue, lead the eye across the most solid and fashionable northwest quarter of the 
city to the more thinly settled hill-districts, where are conspicuous the square tower 
of the Soldiers' Home (4}^ miles), the lofty buildings of Howard University, and, 
farther to the right and more distant, the halls of the Catholic University. 

The eastern outlook carries the picture around to the right, and embraces the valley 
of the Anacostia River, or eastern branch of the Potomac. Here the conspicuous object 
is the Capitol (IJ^ miles distant), whose true proportions and supreme 
Scene size can now be well understood. Over its right wing appears the 

Toward the Congressional Library, its gilt dome flashing back the rays of the 
Capitol. sun, and setting it out sharply against the Maryland hills. Between 

the Monument and the Capitol stretches the green Mall, with the grounds 
and buildings of the Agricultural Department nearest the observer ; then the castellated 
towers of the Smithsonian, the low breadth of the National Museum, the red, shape- 
less pile of the Army Medical Museum, and the small Fisheries Building, leading the 
eye as far as Sixth Street, beyond which are open parks. Somewhat to the right, 
the course of the Pennsylvania Railroad, out Virginia Avenue, is seen as far as 
Garfield Park, where it disappears within a tunnel. This leads the eye to the 
broad current of the Anacostia, which can be overlooked as far up as the Navy 
Yard, and downward past the bridge to Anacostia, to where it joins the Potomac 
at Greenleaf's Point. The military barracks there can be seen ; and this side of it, 
along the harbor branch of the Potomac, are the steamboat wharves. 

The view southward is straight down the Potomac, far beyond the spires of Alex- 
andria, six miles in an air line, to where it bends out of view around Cedar Point. Long 
Bridge, which has been built sixty years or more, is in the immediate 
Down the foreground, and the railways leading to it can be traced. To the right, 

Potomac. the eye sweeps over a wide area of the red Virginia hills, thickly crowned 

during the Civil War with fortifications, the sites of some of which may 
be discovered by the knowing, and covers the disastrous fields of Manassas off to the 
right on the level blue horizon. 

The western view continues this landscape of Virginia, and includes about three 
miles of the Potomac above Long Bridge. Close beneath the eye are the old and scat- 
tered houses of the southwest quarter, with the Van Ness homestead 
Up the and the hill crowned by the old Naval Observatory on ground where 

Potomac. Washington meant to place his national university. Above that the cur- 

rent of the river is broken by Analostan, or Mason's Island, opposite the 
mouth of Rock Creek, beyond which are the crowded, hilly streets of Georgetown, and 
the Aqueduct bridge, leading to Roslyn, on the southern bank.*^ Then come the high 
banks which confine and hide the river, and bear upon their crest the flashing basin of 
the distributing reservoir. Beyond it, over the city of Georgetown, are the beautiful 
wooded heights about Woodley, where President Cleveland had his summer home, and 



FROM THE MONUMENT TO THE MUSEUMS. 



119 



thousands of charming suburban houses are building. On the Virginia side of the river, 
the Arlington mansion appears, somewhat at the left, and three miles distant ; more in 
front, and nearer, the National Cemetery embowered in trees ; and behind it, the clus- 
tered quarters of Fort Meyer. The distance is a rolling, semi-wooded country, thickly 
sown with farms, hamlets, and villages, among which Fall's Church is alone conspicuous, 
and fading away to a high level horizon; but when the air is clear, the eye can see and 
rejoice in the faint but distinct outlines of the turquoise-tinted Blue Ridge, far away in 
the southwest. 

Some Scientific Departments. 

The public institutions along the south side of The Mall, dealing in a large part of 
the scientific work of the nation, contain more to interest the stranger in Washington 
than any other, except the Capitol itself. They include the Washington Monument, and 
there are good reasons for advising that the ascent of this should be the very first thing 
done by the visitor ; the Bureau of Engraving and Printing, the Department of Agri- 
culture, the National and Army Medical museums in the Smithsonian grounds, and the 
Fisheries Commission. It is a long day's task to make a satisfactory tour of these build- 
ings ; and the National Museum alone has material for almost unlimited study in 
many paths of knowledge. Let us begin with the Bureau of Engraving and Printing, 
the name given to the Government's factory for designing, engraving, 
and printing its bonds, certificates, checks, notes, revenue and postage Bureau Of 
stamps, and many other oflBcial papers. It is under control of the Treas- Engraving 
ury Department, and occupies a handsome brick building on Fourteenth and Printing. 
Street, S. W., within five minutes' walk of the Washington Monument. 
It is three stories high, 220 feet long by 135 feet wide, and was built in 1878 at a cost 
of $300,000. S Visitors are received from 10 to 2 o'clock, and wait in the reception- 
room until an attendant (several women are assigned to this duty) is ready to conduct a 




THE BUREAU OF ENGRAVING AND PRINTING. — Northeast Corner B tnd Fourteenth Street^ S. W. 



120 



PICTOEIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 




NUMBERING CURRENCY NOTES. 

party over the building, which is simply a crowded factory of high- class technical work, 
the products of which have received the highest encomiums at several world's fairs in 
Europe as well as in America. 

Just east of this bureau, occupying large grounds between Fourteenth and Twelfth 
streets, S. W., and reached from Pennsylvania Avenue by streetcars on both those 
streets, and from the Capitol by the Belt Line along Maryland Avenue and B Street, 
S. W., is the headquarters of the Department of Agriculture. This popular Depart- 
ment grew out of the special interest which early patent commissioners took in agri- 
cultural machinery, improvements, and the collection and distribution of seeds — a 
function that formed a large part of its work until 1895. It was gradually separated 
from the Patent Office work, erected into a commissiouership, and finally 
Department (1889) was given the rank of an executive department, the Secretary of 
of Agriculture being the last-added Cabinet officer. His office is in the brick 

Ag^ricUltUre. building west of the Smithsonian grounds, and he has the help of an 
assistant secretary, to whom has been assigned the direction of the great 
amount of scientific work done, including the experiment stations, and the studies 
of fibers, irrigation, and the department museum. 

The scope of the work is now very extended, including the study of diseases of 
live stock, and the control of the inspection of import and export animals, cattle trans- 
portation, and meat ; a bureau of statistics of crops, live stock, etc., at home and abroad ; 
scientific investigations in forestry, botany, fruit culture, cultivation of textile plants, 
and diseases of trees, grains, vegetables, and plants ; studies of the injurious or beneficial 
relations to agriculture of insects, birds, and wild quadrupeds ; investigations as to roads 
and methods of irrigation ; chemical and microscopical laboratories, and a great number 
of experiment stations, correspondents, and observers in various parts of this and other 



FROM THE MONUMENT TO THE MUSEUMS. 121 

countries. The results of all these investigations and experiments are liberally pub- 
lished, and in spite of a sneer now and then the people are satisfied that the $3,300,000 
cr so expended annually by this department is a wise and profitable outlay. 

There is a museum in a separate Imilding in the rear of the main one, exhibiting 
excellent wax models of fruits, nuts, and natural fowls of various kinds; and an 
especially full and interesting display of models showing the damage 
■wiought by many kinds of insects injurious to trees and plants; also an Agricultural 
attiactive and instructive exhibit, comprising a number of groups of IMusCUdl. 

mounted birds, ground-squirrels, gophers, and other mammals, in natural 
surroundings, each representing a chapter in the life history of the animal and showing 
its rehtion to agriculture. These were exhibited at the World's Columbian Exposition, 
at Chicago, in 1893, and excited admiration. The library and herbarium will interest 
botanis's. The ordinary visitor, however, will prefer to remain out of doors, where 
years ago care made these grounds the best cultivated part of The Mall, and a practical 
example of ornamental gardening. The extensive greenhouses must also be visited ; all 
are open at all reasonable hours, and the palmhouse is a particularly delightful place in 
a stormy winter's day. A tower in the garden, composed of slabs with their foot-thick 
bark from one of the giant trees (sequoia) of California, should not be neglected, for it 
represents the exact size of the huge tree, "General Noble," from which the pieces 
were cut. 

One impoi*.ant branch of the department — namely, the Weather Bureau — is domi- 
ciled at the corner of M and Twenty-fourth streets. There may be seen the delicate 
instruments by which the changes of meteorological conditions are 
recorded, and th^i method of forecasting the weather for the ensuing Weather 

forty-eight hours, which is based upon reports of local conditions tele- Service. 

graphed each night and morning from the observers in all parts of North 
America, whereupon orders to display appropriate signals are telegraphed to each office. 

The system grew up from the experiments of Gen. A. G. Myer, Chief Signal 
OflBcer, U. S. A., who invented the present system and conducted it under the authority 
of Congress (1870) as a part of the signal service of the army. Generals 
Hazen and A. W. Greely, of Arctic fame, succeeded him and perfected Forecasting. 
the service, but in 1891 it was transferred to the Department of Agricul- 
ture and placed in charge ol a civilian " chief " appointed by the President. In addition 
to the forecasting of storms, etc., the bureau has in hand the gauging and reporting of 
rivers; the maintenance and operation of seacoast telegraph lines, and the collection and 
transmission of marine intelligence for the benefit of commerce and navigation; the 
reporting of temperature and rainfall conditions for the cotton interests, and a large 
amount of scientific study in respect to meteorology. 

The Smithsonian Institution and National Museum are reached by crossing Twelfth 
Street, S. W., and entering the spacious park. Near the gate stands a lifelike statue of 
Joseph Henry, the first secretary of the Institution. It is of bronze, after a model by 
W. W. Story, and was erected by the regents in 1884. 

The Smithsonian Institution was constituted by an act of Congress to administer the 
bequest of his fortune made to the United States by James Smithson, a younger son of 
the English Duke of Northumberland, and a man of science, who died 
in 1829. In 1838 the legacy became available and was brought over in Smithsonian 
gold sovereigns, which were recoined into American money, yielding Institution. 
$508,318.46. The language of this bequest was : 

I bequeath the whole of my property to the United States of America to found at Wa.shiugton, 
under the name of the Smithsonian Institution, an establishment for the increase and diffusion of 
knowledge among men. 



122 



PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 



The acceptance of this trust is the only action of the kind ever taken by the nation, 
and the Institution stands in a peculiar relation to the Government. It is composed of 
the President of the United States and the members of his Cabinet, ex officio, a chancellor, 
who is elected, and a secretary, vpho is the active administrator of its affairs. The busi- 
ness of the institution is managed by a board of regents, composed of the Vice-Presidert 
and the Chief Justice of the United States, three Senators, three members of the Hou^e 
of Representatives, and six other eminent persons nominated by a joint resolution of the 
Senate and the House of Representatives. The immediate and primary object of the 
board, as above constituted, is to administer the fund, which has now increased to aljout 
$1,000,000, and in doing so it promotes the object of its founder thus : 

(1) In the increase of knowledge by original investigation and study, either in sdence 
or literature. (2) In the diffusion of this knowledge by publication everywhere, and 
especially by promoting an interchange of thought among those promi- 
Plan and nent in learning among all nations, through its correspondents. These 

Scope. embrace institutions or societies conspicuous in art, science, or literature 

throughout the world. Its publications are in three principal issues, 
namely : The "Contributions to Knowledge," the " Miscellaneous Collectiois,"and the 
"Annual Report." Numerous works are published annually by it, under one of these 
forms, and distributed to its principal correspondents. 

There was early begun a system of international exchanges of correspondence and 
publications, which forms a sort of clearing-house for the scientific world in its dealings 
with Americans; and there is no civilized country or people on the giobe where the 
Institution is not represented by its correspondents, who now number about 24,000. 
The immediate benefit to the Institution itself has been in enabling it t) build up a great 
scientific library of over 300,000 titles and mainly deposited in the Library of Congress. 

The Smithsonian Building, of Seneca brownstone, was planned 5y James Renwick, 
the architect whose best known work, perhaps, is St. Patrick's Cathedral in New York. 




THE SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION. —Th? Mall, near 8 and Tenth Streets, S. W 



FROM THE MONUMENT TO THE MUSEUMS. 



123 



It was completed in 1855. "Features selected from the Gothic and Romanesque styles 
are combined in its architecture, but its exterior, owing chiefly to the irregular sky line, 
is very picturesque and pleasing." For the purposes of exhibition of specimens and 
laboratory work, however, the buildiug is badly lighted, wasteful of space, and other- 
wise unsuitable. The eastern wing was for many years the home of Prof. Joseph Henry, 
the first secretary, but is now devoted to the oiBces of administration. 

The Smithsonian Institution has under its charge, but not at the expense of its own 
funds, certain bureaus which are sustained by annual appropriations. These are: The 
United States National Museum, the Bureau of International Exchanges, 
the Bureau of Ethnology, the National Zoological Park, and the Astro- Smithsonian 
physical Observatory. Of the National Museum and the Zoological Park Bureaus. 

more extended notice will be found elsewhere. The Bureau of Ethnology 
is a branch of the work which studies the ethnology, history, languages, and customs of 
the American Indians, and publishes the results in annual reports and occasional bulle- 
tins. It has been the means of collecting a vast amount of important and interesting 
material illustrative of the primitive natives of this continent; and all this is deposited in 
the National Museum. The offices of this bureau are at 1330 F Street. 




NATIONAL MUSEUM.— B Street, between Ninth and Tenth Streets. 



In.no single respect, perhaps, has the progress of the American capital been more 
striking than in the history of the National Museum. Originating in a quantity of 
"curiosities" which had been given to the United States by foreign 
powers, or sent home by consuls and naval oflBcers, old visitors to Wash- National 

ington remember it as a heterogeneous cabinet in the Patent Office. In MusCUfll. 

1816 a step was taken toward something coherent and creditable, by an 
act of Congress establishing a National Museum, following the precedent of a dozen or 
more other nations ; but this intention took effect very slowly, though various explor- 
ing expeditions antl embassies largely increased the bulk of the collections, which, by 
and by, were trundled over to the Smithsonian building. 



124 PICTOKIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 

The main entrance is in the north front, and is surmounted by "an allegorical 
group of statuary, by C. Buberl of New York, representing Columbia as the Patron of 
Science and Industry." Entering, you find yourself at once in the North Hall, with 
the statuary, plants, and .fountain of the rotunda making a pleasing picture in the dis- 
tance. This hall is crowded with cases containing personal relics of great men, and 
other historical objects. 

The "relics" include a large quantity of furniture, apparel, instruments, table- 
ware, documents, etc., which belonged to Washington; many of them were taken 

from Arlington, while many others were purchased, in 1878, from the 
Personal heirs of his favorite (adopted) daughter, Nellie Custis, who became Mrs. 

Relics. Lewis and lived until 1832. Articles that once belonged to Jefferson, 

Jackson, Franklin (especially his own hand printing press), and several 
other statesmen or commanders of note ; presents, medals, etc. , given to naval oflBcers, 
envoys, and other representatives of the Government, by foreign rulers, are shown in 
great numbers ; but all are well labeled and need here neither cataloging nor descrip- 
tion. A most brilliant and valuable cabinet is the collection of swords, presents, and 
testimonials of various kinds given to General Grant during the war and in the course 
of his trip around the world. A large display of pottery and porcelain, illustrating its 
manufacture and characteristics,' in China, Japan, France (Sevres), England, North 
America, and elsewhere occupies many cases ; also a valuable series of lacquers. 

At the right of this hall is the Lecture-room, beyond which, in the northwest 
corner of the building, are the offices of the Director, of the Museum, and the Library. 

The lecture-room is surrounded by models representing the home life of 
Lectures. the American Indians, and upon its walls are hung the Catlin Gallery of 

Indian paintings, made by George Catlin on the Upper Missouri plains 
between 1832 and 1840. It is devoted to scientific conferences. 

On the left of the entrance hall is a room devoted to the various implements used in 
the fisheries, and beyond that an apartment where a great number and variety of 
models of boats and vessels, especially those used in the fisheries of all parts of the 
world, may be examined. These were largely collected during the tenth census. 

Passing on into the Rotunda, the plaster model of Crawford's " Liberty," surmount- 
ing the dome of the Capitol, towers above the fountain-basin, and is surrounded by 

several other models of statues, the bronze or marble copies of which 
Rotunda. ornament the parks and buildings of New York, Boston, etc. All these 

are fully labeled. The two great Havilaud memorial vases here, whose 
value is estimated at $16,000, were presented by the great pottery firm of Haviland, in 
Limoges, France, and are the work of the artists Bracquemond and Delaplanche. One 
is entitled " 1776," and the other " 1876," and they are designed to be illustrative of the 
struggles through which this Republic has passed into prosperity. 

Beyond the rotunda are halls devoted to mammals, mounted by scientific taxider- 
mists in a remarkably lifelike manner; to skeletons of existing and extinct animals; 
and to geological specimens, minerals, ores, the building stones of the Union, and repre- 
sentative fossils — a department in which the museum is extremely rich, as it is the 
depository of the United States Geological Survey. 

In the middle halls of the building are an extraordinary number of articles — with 
thousands more hidden away in storerooms for lack of space to exhil)it them — of the 

industrial arts of the world, and the life of its inhabitants in every 
Costumes. climate, state of civilization, and condition of advancement. One hall is 

devoted wholly, for example, to costumes and textile fabrics of every 
sort. The lay figures wearing Hindoo, Persian, Japanese, American Lidian, and other 
costumes, were largely made for exhibition at the Columbian Exposition in Chicago. 



FROM THE MONUMENT TO THE MUSEUMS. 125 

Where actual costumes are not available, figuriues wearing a miniature of the native 
dress, casts of statuettes, and pictures are used to increase the range of illustration. The 
examples of the home life and arts of the Eskimo, among American savages, and of the 
Japanese, among foreign peoples, are particularly numerous and complete. Particular 
attention is called here to the series of fabrics, especially baskets, made from rushes, 
grass, split roots, and the like, which is exceedingly instructive and beautiful. In 
another hall the arts, architecture, machinery, weapons, navigation, agricultural imple- 
ments, tools, musical instruments, etc. , of the world are illustrated. Pottery forms a 
large and richly furnished department, ranging from rude wares taken 
from prehistoric graves to the finest product of Japan, China, India, Pottery. 

England, and France. No other museum in the world has so large and 
complete a series illustrating the native American pottery, and those interested in the 
ceramic arts will pause a long time over the work of the Pueblo Indians of the South- 
west. It would be quite impossible to mention in detail one in a hundred of the objects 
of artistic, historic, and scientific value in this overflowing museum ; and equally useless 
to attempt to guide the visitor to their place, since the cases are continually being 
moved about to make room for important accessions. 

A considerable portion of the collections, indeed, remain in the old Smithsonian 
building, and should not be neglected; they are open to the pul)lic from 9 to 4.30 
o'clock. The halls on the ground floor there contain a splendid series of 
birds, the ornithological collections here being among the most extended Old 

and useful in the world. At the west end is an extensive and attractive Building^. 

display (highly instructive to artists as well as naturalists) of the inverte- 
brate marine life of both the fresh waters and of the seas adjacent to the United States — 
sponges, corals, starfishes, and other echinoderms, mollusks in wide and beautiful 
variety, crabs and their kin, and many other preservable representatives of the humbler 
inhabitants of the rivers and ocean. 

The upper floor is a single lofty hall filled to overflowing with collections in anthro- 
pology, the handiwork of primitive and savage races of mankind, illustrating the develop- 
ment, art, and social economy of uncivilized mankind, especially during the prehistoric 
stone age. The models and paintings of Arizona cliff-dwellings ought especially to be 
noticed. In the vestibule below are full-sized plaster models of the great circular calen- 
dar-stone of the Mexicans, etc. 

The Army Medical Museum occupies the handsome brick building in the southeast 
corner of the Smithsonian grounds, next to Seventh Street. This institution grew up 
after the war, out of the work of the Surgeon-General's ofl3ce, and con- 
tains a great museum illustrating not only all the means and methods of Army 
military surgery, but all the diseases and casualties of war, making a i^Iedical 
grewsome array of preserved flesh and bones, affected by wounds or Museum. 
disease ; or wax or plaster models of the effects of wounds or disease, 
which the average visitor could contemplate only with horror and dismay. 
This museum, nevertheless, is of the greatest interest and value to the medical 
and surgical profession, and comprises some 25,000 specimens. In the anatomical 
section there is a very large collection of human crania, and about 1,500 skeletons 
of American mammals. In the miscellaneous sections are the latest appliances 
for the treatment of diseases, all sorts of surgical instruments, and models of ambu- 
lances, hospitals, etc. The library is the most complete collection of medical and 
surgical literature in the world, surpassing that of the British Museum. 

The statue of Dr. Samuel D. Gross, in front of this museum, appro- StatUes. 

priately commemorates one of the greatest of American surgeons (born 
1805, died 1884), and an author and teacher of renown. It was erected from professional 



126 PICTOEIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 

subscriptions, and presented to the Government in 1897. It is of bronze, modeled 
by Calder. 

A beautiful monument to Daguerre, the originator of photography, stands near by 
this. It was designed by Hartley of New York. 

The United States Fish Commission is the last place to be visited on this side of The 
Mall. It occupies the old ante-bellum arsenal on Sixth Street, from which that part of 
the park between Sixth and Seventh streets derives its name. Armory 
Fish Square. Here, on the basement floor, can be seen various aquaria 

Commission, filled with growing plants and inhabited by fishes, rare and common, and 
by quaint and pretty swimming and creeping things that dwell in the 
rivers and sea. The apparatus involved in various forms of fish-hatching can be exam- 
ined, and perhaps the process may be watched in a series of tanks which is often so em- 
ployed. If it should happen that one of the railway cars, in which young fish are carried 
about the country for planting in inland waters, is standing in the yard, it would be 
worth the trouble to look at its arrangements. The upper floor of this building is de- 
voted to the offices of the Fish Commissioner and his assistants. 




"■iMisMSf^.- 




IX. 
THE CORCORAN AND OTHER ART GALLERIES. 



The Art Galleries of the city, properly speaking, are two in number ; but those 
interested in statuary, pictures, and ceramics will -find a great quantity of all these dis- 
played at the Capitol, in various department buildings, on the walls of the new Library 
of Congress, and at the National Museum. Of first importance is the Corcoran col- 
lection: 

The Corcoran Art Gallery has no connection with the Government, although its 
trustees are given a place in the Congressional Directory. It is wholly the result of the 
philanthropy of a wealthy citizen, William Wilson Corcoran, who died 
in 1893. "He early decided," it has been well said, " that at least one- W. W. 

half of his money accumulations shoidd be held for the welfare of men, Corcoran. 

and he kept his self-imposed obligation so liberally that his charities, 
private and public, exceed the amount of $5,000,000, and that ' he left no aspect of human 

life untouched by his ben- 
eficence.'" The Corcoran 
Gallery was opened in 18G9, 
in the noble building oppo- 
site the War Department. 
This has now been super- 
seded by the splendid gal- 
lery on Seventeenth Street, 
at New York Avenue, fac- 
ing the Executive grounds. 
The Corcoran donations, 
including the old lot and 
building, have been $1,000.- 
000; and about $350,000 
has been ^ paid by the 
trustees for paintings, be- 
sides what has been given. 
A large number of casts of 
classic statues, famous ba.s- 
reliefs, and smaller carvings 
in this gallery, are not only beautiful in themselves, but of great value to students. 

This l)uilding has a length of 265 feet in Seventeenth Street, 140 feet in New York 
Avenue, and 120 feet in E Street. In architecture it is Neo-Greek, after the plans of 
Ernest Flagg of New York, and the external walls, above the granite 
basement, are of Georgia marble, white, pure, and brilliant. There are Description 
no windows on the second or gallery floor of the fa9ade, all the light for of Building. 
the exhibition of the pictures coming from the skylight in the roof. The 
only ornaments of this front are about the doorway, which is elaborately carved, and 
under the eaves of the roof, where the names of the world's famous artists are inscribed 
in severely simple letters. Entering the front door, the visitor is confronted by a grand 
staircase, on the farther side of the great Statuary Hall, 170 feet long, which occupies the 

129 




THE CORCORAN GALLERY OF ARTS. 



130 



PICTOEIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 




CHARLOTTE CORDAY IN PRISON 
Painting by Charles Louis Muller. 



ground floor. This is so lighted by open- 
ings through the gallery floor that, for the 
exhibition of casts in delicate lights, it can 
not be surpassed in any other gallery of the 
world. The second or gallery floor, where 
the principal pictures are hung, under the 
great glass roof, is supported by Doric 
columns of Indiana limestone, above which 
are Ionic columns supporting the roof. 
On this floor are also four gallery rooms, 
sixty-one feet by twenty-eight, and numer- 
ous small rooms for the exhibition of 
water-colors and objects of art. On the 
New York Avenue side is a semi-circu- 
lar lecture hall, with a platform and rising 
floor to the side walls, which, with a good 
skylight, make this room an excellent one 
for private exhibitions. Attached to the 
gallery is an art school, using two well- 
lighted rooms fronting to the north, 
with accommodations for a large number 
of pupils. It is the intention to give 
here annual art exhibitions of the work 



of local and other American artists and students. 

Among the older and more prominent paintings in the Corcoran collection are 
the following: " The Tornado " by Thomas Cole, "The Watering-Place" by Adolphe 

Schreyer, " Nedjma-Odalisque " by Gaston Casimir Saint Pierre, "Edge 
Paintings. of the Forest" by Asher Brown Durand, "The Vestal Tuccia " by 

Hector Le Roux, "Mercy's Dream" by Daniel Huntington, "Niagara 
Falls" by Frederick Edwin Church, "Caesar Dead" by Jean Leon Gerome, "On 
the Coast of New England" by William T. Richards, "The Helping Hand" by 
Emile Renouf, "The Death of Moses" by Alexander Cabanel, "Charlotte Corday 
in Prison" by Charles Louis Muller, "The Passing Regiment" by Edward Detaille, 
"Wood Gatherers" by Jean Baptiste Camille Corot, "The Forester at Home" by 
Ludwig Knaus, "Virgin and Child" by Murillo, "Christ Bound" by Van Dyck, 
"Landscape" by George Inness, "The Schism" by Jean George Vibert, "The 
Pond of the Great Oak" by Jules Dupr6, "A Hamlet of the Seine near Vernon" by 
Charles Frangois Daubigny, "Landscape, with Cattle," by Emile Van Marcke, 
"Joan of Arc in Infancy" by Jean Jacques Henner, "The Banks of the Adige" 
by Martin Rico, "Twilight" by Thomas Alexander Harrison, "The Wedding 
Festival" by Eugene Louis Gabriel Isabey, "The Approaching Storm" by Narcisse 
Virgile Diaz de la Pena, "Moonlight in Holland " by Jean Charles Cazin, "Approach- 
ing Night" by Max Wey, "Sunset in the Woods" by George Inness, "El Bravo 
xbro" by Aime Nicholas Morot. Some noteworthy late additions are: "The Land- 
scape of Historical Bladensburg" (in 1887), the "First Railway in New York" by 
E. L. Henry, and Charles Gutherz' (Paris, 1894) great canvas of the " Bering Sea 
Arbitration Court," which is accompanied by an explanation and key to the portraits. 
Recently added are : J. G. Brown's large and greatly admired canvas "The Longshore- 
man's Noon Hour," which has the "Honorable Mention" of the Paris Salon; "The 
Road to Concarneau" by W. L. Picknell, " Eventide " by Robert C. Minor, a landscape 
by H. W. Ranger, and "The Adoration of the Shepherds" by Mengo. 



THE CORCOKAN AKD OTHER ART GALLERIES. 



131 




LAST DAYS OF NAPOLEON I.— Marble Figure by Vincenzo Velos. 



One room is devoted to 
portraits, in which is prom- 
inently hung a portrait of 
Mr. Corcoran, by Elliott. 
Around him are grouped 
a great num- 
ber of the Portraits. 
Presidents 

of the United States and 
many famous Americans, 
making the collection not 
only interesting histori- 
cally, but particularly val- 
uable as illustrating the 
styles of most of the 
earlier American portrait 
painters. 

Of the marbles, Hiram 
Powers' ' ' Greek Slave " is 
perhaps the 

most ceie- IMarbks. 

brated. To 

Vincenzo Velas' seated fig- 
ure of the ' ' Last Days of 
Napoleon " is given special 
prominence by its central 
position in the upper hall. 
The exquisite little statue 
of the weeping child, en- 
titled "The Forced 



Prayer," by Guarnario, always brings a smile to the face of visitors. 

The Barye Bronzes are especially notable as the largest collection extant of the fine 
animal figures and other works of this talented French modeler ; they 
number about 100. The small model of the statue to Frederick the Bronzes and 
Great, and the numerous electrotypic reproductions of unique metallic Rcplicas. 

objects of art preserved in European museums, are other things that 
the intelligent visitor will dwell upon among the wealth of beautiful things presented 
to his view in this art museum. 

The Tayloe Collection is a bequest from the family of Benjamin Ogle Tayloe, whose 
richly furnished home is still standing on Lafayette Square. It consists of some two 
hundred or more objects of art, ornament, and curious interest, includ- 
ing marbles by Powers, Thorwaldsen, Greenough, and Canova ; portraits Tayloe 
by Gilbert Stuart, Huntington, and foreign artists, and many other paint- Collection. 
ings ; a large number of bronze objects and pieces of furniture, including 
Washington's card table and other pieces that belonged to eminent men. and a large 
series of porcelain, glass, ivory, and other objects, which are both historically and artis- 
tically interesting. A special catalogue for this collection is sold at 5 cents. 

The Waggaman Gallery ought surely to be examined by all culti- Waggaman 
vated travelers. It is at No. 3300 O Street, Georgetown, and is easily Gallery. 

reached by either the F Street or Pennsylvania Avenue stree ars. 
This gallery is the private acquisition of Mr. E. Waggaman, and contains a large 



132 



PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 



number of fine paintings, the specialty being Dutcli water-colors, where the Holland- 
ish style and choice of subjects are well exhibited. The most striking and valu- 
able part of the collection, however, is undoubtedly that representing Japanese work 
in pottery, stone, and metal. The series of tea jars, antique porcelains, and modern 
wares, showing rare glazes and the most highly prized colors, is extensive and well 
chosen ; and a wonderful array of bronzes and artistic work in other metals in the 
form of swords, sword-guards, bells, utensils of various forms and capacities, and 
decorative compositions, excites the enthusiasm of connoisseurs in this department. 
The gems of this su- ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ perb cabinet, how- 
are the H|^H|^^^^^^^^^^^^^^H of 

has few ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^H superiors; 
the ^^^^^^^H ^^^^^^^^^H cent 

^^^^^^^^p 4Pi^^^^^^^l unique in the United 
States, ^^^^^^^^^ -f^^^^^^^^^^ unsurpassed. A 

number ^^^^^^H ^^^^^^^| ivory carvings, teak- 

stands ^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^1 quisite 

^^^^^^AtfV ^^^^^^^H oriental 

workmanship, make ^^^^^^^V ^^^^^^^H this gallery notable. 

Visitors ad- ^^^^^^^B ^^^^^^^^| mitted on Thursdays 

of each week during ^^^^^^M , .^^^^^^^^H January, February, 

March, and April, ^^^^^^^ ^.^ ' "^^^^^^H ^^^^^^^^ 

by ^^^^^^H ^^^^^^H 50 cents 

admission toward a ^^^^^^^^ ,^^^^^^^1 charitable 

The Halls the ^^^^^K/ ' ^^^^| Ancients the 



and art at Nos. 1313 



VENUS OF MELOS — Cast. 



Avenue, 
admission 
Franklin 
who has 
National 
Leasing , 



Open 9 
25 cents. 
Webster 
in view 
Galleries 
by the 



given 

ancient ai'chitecture 

to 1318 New York 

A. M. to 6 p. M. ; 

The projector is Mr. 

Smith of Boston, 

' ' the promotion of 

of History and Art." 

financial cooperation of Mr. S. Walter Woodward of Washington, a large plot of 

ground, he has reared upon it a bvulding for the concrete exhibition of the life and 

art of ancient peoples. 

"The trouble with most museums," Mr. Smith asserts, "is that they deal with dead 
things exclusively when they deal with antiquities at all. A room full of mummies is, 
doubtless, interesting in its way, but I do not believe the student of ancient history gets 
so good a background for his studies from such an exhibition as from one in which he 
is actually introduced into the midst of the domestic, social, and religious life of the 
people of whom he has read — their surroundings, in other words, before they became 
mummies. We gather in museums an endless variety of fragmentary relics, and we call 
that a contribution to popular education. But how much more can we do toward edu- 
cating the people if we can show them, through their eyes, just what use was made of 
each of these relics while it was still in touch with the life of its period, the part it 
played in the daily activities of its owner, and the influence it presumptively had on 
his career." 

The ancient nationalities illustrated are Egyptian, Assyrian, Grseco- Roman, and 
Saracenic peoples. 

The Egyptian Portal designed is a reproduction of the section of the Hypostyle Hall 
of Karnak in exact size of the original ; columns 70 ft. high and 12 ft. in diameter. It is 




N THE HALLS OF THE ANCIENTS— The Egyptian Halls of Gods and Kings. 



134 



PICTOEIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 



the entrance to the Hall of Gods and Kings, more grand in dimensions and beautiful 
in color than that (the Saulenhof) built by Lepsius in the museum at Berlin, and 
contains twelve decorated columns in three styles — the Lotus Bud, the Palm, and 
Hathor capitals — with wall decorations and the throne pavilion reproduced by Lepsius. 

The Upper Egyptian Hall contains the beautiful interior of an Egyptian house and 
court designed by Racinet. The larger section, 33 feet by 42 feet, is for illustration of the 
arts and crafts of the Egyptians. A dado 72 feet in length displays a facsimile in color of 
the Papyrus of Ani, or Book of the Dead, from the British Museum. On the staircase 
wall is a copy, 10 feet by 7 feet, of Richter's "Building of the Pyramids," and adjacent, 
one of like size of Long's "Egyptian Feast"; also a cast of the Rosetta Stone. 

The Assyrian Throne Room is gorgeous in blue and gold. A section is walled with 
casts from the Nineveh and Nimroud slabs in the British Museum, and paintings of 
others. The portal is between the four colossal human-headed bulls found in the Palace 
of Sennacherib. The Throne of Xerxes from Persepolis is set up, modeled from the 
original in the Louvre. 

The Roman House upon the ground floor, with entrance from the Hall of Columns, 
covers 10,000 square feet. Its decorations, which cover more than 15,000 square feet of 
surface, are copied in part from the beautiful House of Vettius. This exceeds in size 
and completeness Mr. Smith's well-known House of Panza in Saratoga. 

The Taberna (shop) occupies the lower floor of the Roman House, and contains 
superb illustrations of Greek vases, full size. Replica copies thereof will be made for 
supplying schools and individuals with models of form and beauty in decoration. 

The Lecture Hall, in Persian style of ornamentation, contains the painting of the 
Grandeur of Rome in the time of Constantine, covering more than 500 square feet, after 
the original by Buhlmann and Wagner of Munich. 

The Saracenic Halls are a counterpart of the beautiful House of Benzaquin in 
Tangiers, with casts of traceries from the Alhambra. 

The Art Gallery is devoted to Roman history. The walls are surrounded by 102 
plates from Pinelli's ' ' Istoria Romana " — in historical order from the foundation of Rome. 
On special occasions, illustrations are given with stereopticon after an explanatory 
course through the halls. (See plates Egyptian Hall, pages 133 and opposite 204.) A 
descriptive hand-book, with fifty illustrations, is loaned to visitors. It is published 
in Senate Document No. 209. 

The ultimate object of the construction of the Halls is to illustrate Mr. Smith's design 
for National Galleries of History and Art according to view annexed. The plan is 
elaborately set forth in Senate Document No. 209; 444 pages, octavo, with 272 illustra- 
tions, published by unanimous consent of the Senate — LVIth Congress, first session, Feb- 
ruary 12, 1900. 

'' " '''^ DESIGN FOR 

NATIONAL GALLERIES 
IN WASHINGTON.— 
ByR.,,iklin Webster Smitn. 



See page 133, 
and 
Advertisement 

page Vli. 




X. 



CHURCHES, CLUBS, THEATERS, ETC. 



Washington has a great number of churches of every denomination and in all 
parts of the city. Only a few of the most conspicuous of these need be mentioned. 
The oldest are Eock Creek Chui-ch, near the Soldiers' Home ; Christ 
Church, near the Navy Yard, and St. John's, on Lafayette Square. All Episcopal. 
these are Episcopal, and have been elsewhere described. Other prom- 
inent Episcopal churches are : Epiphany (G Street, near Fourteenth), which, like 
several other church societies in the city, has a suburban chapel ; the Church of tiie 
Ascension, at Massachusetts Avenue and Twelfth Street ; old St. John's, prominent 
in Georgetown; and St. James', at Massachusetts Avenue and Eighth Street, N. E., 
on Capitol Hill, very highly ritualistic. The Roman Catholics have many fine 
churches and a large influence in Washington, fostered by their universities. Their 
oldest church is St. Aloysius, at North Capitol and S streets ; and St. Matthew's, 
Rhode Island Avenue near Connecticut Avenue, is probably the most fashionable. 
Congregationalism is represented most prominently by the First Church, at G and 
Tenth streets, which has always been a leader in religious philanthropy, especially 
toward the Freedmen. The Presbyterian churches are among the oldest 
and largest. The leading one, perhaps, is the First, which remains in Presbyterian. 
Four-and-a-half Street, and became famous under the care of Dr. Byron 
Sunderland, when it was attended by President Cleveland. An ofishoot from it 
was the New York Avenue Church, whose big house is so conspicuous in the angle 
between that avenue and H Street at Twelfth. Out of this has sprung the Gurley 
Memorial, near Seventh Street and the Boundary ; and the Church of the Covenant, 
whose gi-eat square tower is a conspicuous ornament on Connecticut Avenue. Well- 
known Methodist churches 
are the Metropolitan Mem- 
orial, down in Four-and- 
a-half Street ; the Foundry 
Church, at G and Four- 
teenth streets, which Pres- 
ident Hayes attended ; and 
tlie Hamline, at Ninth and 
P streets. A leading Bap- 
tist church is Calvary, at 
Eighth and H streets. 

The S w eden borgians 
have a white stone build- 
ing at Cor- 
coran and Other De- 
Sixteenth nominations. 
streets ; and 
the Unitarians, the well- 
known Church of All Souls, 
135 



u \r'' 




ST. JOHN'S CHURCH. 



136 



PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 



at Fourteenth and L streets. The Universalist meeting-house is at L and Thir- 
teenth streets. The "Christian" Society, of which President Garfield was a mem- 
ber, worships in its Memorial Church on Vermont Avenue, between N and 
O streets. The Lutheran Memorial Church, on Thomas Circle, is foremost in that 
denomination, and the service is in English. Colored churches are numerous, 
chiefly Methodist and Baptist ; in the former the strongest is Asbury, at Eleventh 
and K streets, and in the latter the Abyssinian, at Vermont Avenue and R Street. 

The theaters in Washington attract the finest traveling companies, including occa- 
sional grand opera. The newest and most ornate house is the Lafayette Square Opera 
House, occupying a historic site on Madison Place, Lafayette Square. 
Theaters Another large theater is the Grand Opera House, on Fifteenth Street, 

and the at the corner of E Street, one block south of Pennsylvania Avenue, now 

Opera. devoted to vaudeville. The new National Theater, on Pennsylvania 

Avenue, between Thirteenth and Fourteenth streets, is of great capacity 
and comfort, and holds the popularity it gained long ago. The Academy of Music is 
another well-known 
house, at Ninth and 
D streets. The Col- 
umbia is the newest 
addition to the com- 
mendable theaters. 
It is at 1112 F Street, 
occupying what for- 
merly was Metzerott 
Hall. Kernan's Ly- 
ceum, at 1014 Penn- 
sylvania Avenue, 
and Butler's Bijou, 
give variety shows. 

Certain churches 
are the principal 
places for lectures 
and the like, but 
scientific lectures are 
usually heard in the 
hall at the National 
Museum, or in the 
lecture-room of the 
Cosmos Club. 

Convention Hall 
is an immense arched 
ai)artment over a 
market where New 
York Avenue crosses 
L and Fifth streets, 
and is intended for 
the use of conven- 
tions. 

The clubs of the 
capital are notamong 
its "sights," but 




THE CHURCH OF THE COVENANT. 
Southeast Corner Eighteenth and N Streets, N. W, 



CHUKCHES, CLUBS, THEATERS, ETC. 137 

should receive a few words. Most prominent among them is the Metropolitan, 
characterized elsewhere. Next in social importance, probably, is the Army and 
Navy, which has a handsome six-story building opposite the south- 
eastern corner of Farragut Square. Its triangular lot has enabled Army and 
the architect to make a series of very charming j^rincipal rooms, in Navy Club. 
the northwestern front, where the sunshine streams in nearly all 
day. These and the -many connecting apartments are luxuriously furnished and 
adorned with pictures, including original portraits of a dozen or more of the 
principal commanders of the army and navy, from Paul Jones to W. T. Sherman. 
Only those identified with some military organization are eligible to membership, 
but the club is very liberal in extending a welcome to visiting militiamen, foreign 
military men, and others suitably introduced. One feature of this club is the 
informal professional lecture given to the members once a month by some expert. 

The Cosmos Club has been referred to elsewhere ; the Columbia Athletic Club is a 
large association of young men, partly social and partly athletic, which has a field in 
the gardens of the old Van Ness mansion. The Country Club, near 
Tenallytown, and the Chevy Chase Club, have already been mentioned. IMinor ClubS. 
Allied to them, within the city, are several clubs of amateur photog- 
raphers, golf players, bicycle riders, tennis and ball players, and boatmen, Washing- 
ton being a place famous for oarsmen. The two women's clubs must not be for- 
gotten : One is the fashionable Washington Club, on H Street, opposite the French 
Embassy, and the other the Working Women's Club, a purely social organization, 
at 606 Eleventh Street, composed of women who earn their living — physicians, 
journalists, stenographers, etc. Both these clubs give teas, musicales, and other 
feminine entertainments. The Alibi is a coterie of well-fed gentlemen who give 
charming feasts, largely of their own cooking, and cultivate a refined Bohemianism ; 
while the Gridiron is a dining-club of newspaper men, who have a jolly dinner 
among themselves once a month, and an annual spread to which all the great men 
available are invited, and where most of them are good-naturedly guyed. 

The Young Men's Christian Association flourishes here — and in 181>8 took posses- 
sion of the fine h-^ use and gymnasium built by the Columbia Athletic Club on G 
Street near Nineteenth. 



XI. 
OFFICIAL ETIQUETTE AT THE CAPITAL. 

Washington society is distinguished from that of other cities mainly by its semi- 
official character, and in a manner that is not reproduced in any other capital the world 
over. The official etiquette which surrounds its social observances is 
simple, and, although new conditions have tended to make some part Local 

of the code complex to those who would wish to see its rules as clearly Society 

defined as constitutional amendments, the most important of its cus- Features. 
toms have become laws which are generally accepted. The ever- 
changing i^ersonality of the heads of the executive branches of the Government, and 
of the law-makers themselves, together with that innate hatred for anything partak- 
ing too much of court ceremonial, precedence, etc., which is strong in the average 
American, were good enough reasons for the last generation in leaving these questions 
unsettled, and will in all probability even better answer the bustling spirit of the 
present actors upon the social stage. To the stranger who wishes to meet persons of 
national prominence at official gatherings, and to catch, besides, a glimpse of that 
plant of slower and more substantial growth — residential society — the path can be 
made very easy and the way clear. 

The President, as the head of the nation, is entitled to first place whenever he 
mingles in social life. Whether the second place belongs to the Vice-President or to 
the Chief Justice of the Supreme Court has not been defined any 
clearer than whether the Speaker of the House is entitled to precedence Formalities 
over members of the Cabinet. In the popular mind, the second place is at the White 
accorded the Vice-President by virtue of his right of succession to the House. 

highest office in the gift of the people, by the death, resignation, or dis- 
ability of the President. Since the passage of the Presidential Succession bill (Janu- 
ary 19, 1886), the Cabinet is given precedence over the Speaker by the same process 
of reasoning. 

The official social season extends from New Year to Ash Wednesday, the first day 
of Lent. All the formal hospitalities at the Executive Mansion occur 
within this period. On New Year's the President holds a reception, Official 

which begins at 11 o'clock and closes at 2 p.m. The Vice-President and Season. 

the Cabinet are first received and then the Diplomatic Corps ; after that 
body, the Supreme Court, Senators and Members of Congress, officers of the army 
and navy, department chiefs, etc. The last hour is given to the public. 

During the season three or more card receptions (known in the early days of 
White House entertaining as "levees") are held evenings — 9 to 11. 
The first is in honor of the Diplomatic Corps and the others for the Card 

Judiciary, the Congress, and the Army, Navy and Marine Corps. Invi- Reception. 
tations are sent to those named, to other officials of the executive and 
legislative departments, and to acquaintances of the President and family among 
residents of the capital and other cities. Diplomats wear either court or military 
uniforms and officers of the three branches of the service also appear in uniforms. 
Guests unknown to the doorkeepers should be prepared to show invitations. The 

139 



140 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 

last reception of the series is for the public. Advance notice is given in the daily 
papers of the date. 

The President is assisted on these occasions by his wife, the wife of the Vice- 
President, and the Cabinet ladies. The state dining-room, at the west end of the 
house, is used as a cloakroom. Having laid aside their wraps, several 
Reception hundred persons are usuallj^ assembled in the n^ain corridor when 
Ceremony. the President and wife and the receiving party descend to the Blue 
Room, where these receptions are held. Guests approach the Blue 
Room through the Red Room. Each person announces his or her name to the usher, 
who stands at the threshold of the Blue Room. He repeats it to the army officer 
who stands next to the President and who presents each person to him. The 
President always shakes hands. Another army officer standing in front of the Presi- 
dent's wife repeats each name to her. The ladies assisting shake hands with each 
perton who offers a hand to them. A knowledge of this fact on the part of stran- 
gers will avoid mutual embarrassment. Some ladies in the ultra-fashionable set make 
deep courtesies to each person instead of shaking hands, when going down the line at 
these receptions, but the custom has not grown in favor. If not invited to join those 
back of the line, guests pass through the Green to the East Room. In this stately 
apartment the gatheiing assumes its most brilliant aspect. 

In the case of a public reception, persons approach the White House by the 
west gate and a line is formed, which frequently extends as far west as Seventeenth 
Street, those coming last taking their places at the end. After the 
Public threshold of the White House is crossed, the line is a single file through 

Receptions, the vestibule, the corridor, and the Red Room to the Blue Room. As 
in the case of a guest at a card reception, each person announces his or 
her name to the usher, by whom it is repeated to the army officer who makes the pre- 
sentations to the President. These rules are also observed when the wife of the 
President holds a public reception. 

The state dinners alternate with the levees. The first dinner is given in honor of 
the Cabinet, the second in honor of the Diplomatic Corps, and the third in honor of the 
Judiciary. The President and his wife receive their guests in the East 
Dinner Room, an army officer making the presentations. When the butler 

Formalities, announces dinner, the President gives his arm to the lady whose hus- 
band's official position entitles her to precedence and leads the way to 
the state dining-room. If a dinner of more than forty covers is given, the table is 
laid in the corridor. 

An invitation to dine with the President may not be declined, excepting where 
serious reasons can be stated in the note of regret. A prior engagement is not con- 
sidered a sufficient reason, and, in fact, nothing less than personal ill-health, or seri- 
ous illness, or a death in one's family would excuse one from obedience to a summons 
to the table of the President. 

In conversation, the Chief Executive is addressed as " Mr. President." In writing 
as "The President of the United States." 

The wife of the President enj-^ys the same privileges as her husband. She receives 
first cal's from all and returns no visits. Persons desiring an interview with her 
express their wish l)y letter. 

As the President and wife may or may not make calls, so it is entirely at 
their oi)tion whether or not they accept invitations. For the last ton years the 
Cabinet circle has been the limit, but previous to that the Presidents acci'pted 
hospitalities generally. Under no circumstances, however, will either the President 



OFFICIAL ETUiUKTTK AT THE CAPITAL. 141 

or his wife cross the threshold of any foreign embassy or legation, although mem- 
bers of their family may do so. 

The hours for the reception of visitors at the Executive Mansion President's 
change with each administration. The house rules are always posted Hours. 

conspicuously at the entrance. Those having business with the Presi- 
dent arrange for interviews with his private secretary, whose proper title is Secretary 
to the President. 

The Vice-President and wife make only first calls on tlie President and wife. 
They enjoy the same immunity from returning calls. The same courtesy which 
recognizes the members of the Cabinet as in the official family of the 
President, includes the Senatorial circle in the official family of the Yice- 

Vice-President. The Vice-President and wife, therefore, return Sena- President. 
torial calls. They receive on New Year's at their own residence, first 
ofiicial callers and then the public. Throughout the season, the wife of the Vice- 
President receives callers on Wednesday afternoons from 3 to 5. In conversation, the 
Vice-President is addressed as "Mr. Vice-President." 

The wife of the Speaker of the House of Representatives receives on Wednesday, 
at the same hours as the Cabinet ladies. The Speaker is addressed Jis " Mr. Speaker." 

The relative precedence of Cabinet officers has been established by the wording 
of the Presidential Succession bill. It is as follows : The Secretary of State, the 
Secretary of the Treasury, the Secretary of War, the Attorney -General, 
the Postmaster-General, the Secretary of the Navy, the Secretary of the Cabinet 

Interior, and the Secretary of Agriculture. The official designation, Precedence. 

preceded by the phrase, "The Honorable " is the correct form in 

writing to any one of them. In conversation, a Cabinet officer is addressed as 
" Mr. Secretary." 

The Cabinet ladies receive the public on stated Wednesday afternoons, during the 
season, from 3 to 5. The name of each guest is announced by the butler as the hostess 
is approached. Each hostess is usually assisted, in these formal hospitalities, by a 
number of ladies — young girls predominating. They are expected to address visitors 
and to make their stay pleasant. Callers, except under exceptional cir- 
cumstances, do not extend their stay over ten or fifteen minutes, and it Cabinet 
is not necessary that any good-bys should be exchanged with the host- Receptions. 
ess when leaving. As these receptions are frequently attended by from 
four to eight hundred people, who for the most part are strangers, the reason for the 
slight disregard of the usual polite form is obvious. No refreshments are nowoflFered, 
which is also a change from the custom which prevailed several years ago. Visitors 
leave cards. 

Callers wear ordinary visiting dress. The hostess and assistants wear high-necked 
gowns, however elaborate their material and make. This fact is mentioned because 
a few years ago the reverse was the case, and low-necked evening dresses were gen- 
erally worn by the receiving party at afternoon rece])tions. At that period also, men 
frequently appeared on such occasions in full-dress evening suits, swallow-tail coats, 
etc. In fact, full-dress on both men and women was not unusual at the President's 
New Year reception, a dozen years ago, under the impression then 
current that street clothes were not in keeping with a function second to Rules for 
none in point of ceremony from our standpoint, and which was attended Dress. 

by the Diplomatic Corps in court dress or in dazzling military or naval 
uniforms. Customs in tiiese matters have ciiangeil so entirely that a violation of the 
accepted fasnion makes of the ofiender a sul)ject for ridicuU'. The proper costume 
for a woPian to wear to the President's New Year reception is her best visiting dress 



142 PICTOEIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 

with bonnet or hat, the same that she would wear at an afternoon reception, A man 
will dress for the President's New Year reception as he will for any other ceremoni- 
ous daylight event. Neither low-necked gowns nor dress suits are permissible until 
after 6 o'clock. 

The same proprieties of modern custom in dress should be observed when attend- 
ing evening receptions at the White House or elsewhere. Evening dress is impera- 
tive, which, in the case of women, may mean as elaborate or as simple a toilet as the 
wearer may select, but it implies an uncovered head. Bonnets or hats must not be 
worn. 

By a rule adopted during the first Cleveland administration, the Cabinet ladies do 
not return calls generally, but do send their cards once or twice each season as an 
acknowledgment. The Cabinet ladies make the first call upon the ladies of the Su- 
preme Court circle, the families of Senators, and the families of foreign ambassadors. 

Certain days of the week are set apart by custom for making calls upon particular 
groups, and no mistake should be made in this respect. The ladies of the Supreme 
Court families receive callers on Monday afternoons. Congressional 
Callings families on Tuesdays, the Cabinet families on Wednesdays, and the 

Days. Senatorial families on Thursdays, with the exception of those residing 

on Capitol Hill, who observe the day of that section, which is Monday. 
By virtue of another old custom, Tuesday is K Street day ; Thursday calling day for 
upper H and I streets ; Friday for residents of upper F and G streets, and Saturday for 
Connecticut Avenue and vicinity. Calling hours are from 3 to 6. 

The discussion which has been going on for years, and is now as far from settle- 
ment as ever, as to whether Supreme Court Justices and families pay the first call to 
Senators and families, or vice versa, is only of interest to the stranger as a phase of 
Washington life showing the grave importance given to these points by some official 
households and of the absolute indifference with which they are viewed by others. 

The Diplomatic Corps consists of six ambassadors, representing Great Britain, 
France, Italy, Germany, Russia, and Mexico, and twenty-five ministers plenipotentiary, 
of which a circumstantial list will be found at the end of this book. They are ranked 
in the order of their seniority. Each embassy and legation has a corps 
Social of secretaries and attaches. The British Ambassador, Lord Pauncefote, 

Rules in is the dean of the corps, having been the first ambassador appointed. 

Diplomatic Official etiquette as regards the corps has changed since the coming of 
Corps. ambassadors. Ambassadors are given precedence by ministers. By 

virtue of long-established custom, to quote Thomas Jefierson, "foreign 
ministers, from the necessity of making themselves known, pay the first visit to the 
ministers of the nation, which is returned." Ambassadors claim that they only call 
on the President because that is the habit of European countries. It is generally 
understood that all persons, official or otherwise, pay the first call to the embassies. 
The ladies of the Diplomatic Corps have no special day on which to receive callers, 
each household making its own rules in this respect. 



XII. 
STKEETS, SQUARES, AND RESIDENCES. 

The only residence of the President of the United States, in Washington, is the 
Executive Mansion ; but that is rather more uncomfortable than the average Wash- 
ington house in midsummer, and all the later Presidents have been 
accustomed to seek a country home during hot weather. President President. 
Lincoln used to live in a cottage at the Soldiers' Home; President 
Grant spent one summer in the same house, and President Hayes occupied it every 
summer during his term. 

The Secretary of State lives in his own house, Sixteenth and H streets ; the Secre- 
tary of the Treasury at No. 1715 Massachusetts Avenue; and the Secretary of War at 
No. 102G Rhode Island Avenue. The Attorney-General and the Post- 
master-General are on the same block, at Nos. 1707 and 1774 respec- Cabinet. 
tively ; the Secretary of the Navy lives at The Portland ; the Secretary 
of the Interior at The Arlington ; and the Secretary of Agriculture at 1022 Vermont 
Avenue. 

Mr. Chief Justice Fuller resides in his own house, No. 1801 F Street ; Mr. Justice 
Harlan on Meridian Hill; Mr. Justice Gray at No. 1601 I Street; Mr. 
Justice Brewer at No. 1412 Massachusetts Avenue ; Mr. Justice BroAvn Justices. 
at No. 1720 Sixteenth Street ; Mr. Justice Shiras at No. 1515 Massachu- 
setts Avenue; Mr. Justice White at No. 1717 Rhode Island Avenue ; and Mr. Justice 
Peckham at No. 1217 Connecticut Avenue. 

Lafayette Square was the name selected by Washington himself for the square in 
front of the Executive Mansion, for which he foresaw great possibilities ; but it 
remained a bare parade ground, with an oval race course at its west 
end, until after the disastrous days of 1814. Then, when the White Lafayette 
House had been rehabilitated, a beginning was made by President Square. 

Jefferson, who cut off the ends down to the present limits (Madison 
Place and Jackson Place), and caused the trees to be planted. No doubt he had a 
voice in placing there, in 1816, St. John's — the quaint Episcopal church on the 
northern side — the fii'st building on the square. Madison, certainly, was greatly 
interested in it, and it became a sort of court church, for all the Presidents attended 
worship there, as a matter of course, down to Lincoln's time, and President Arthur 
since. Its interior is very interesting. 

Lafayette Square is now, perhaps, the pleasantest place to sit on a summer morn- 
ing or evening among all the outdoor loitering places in this pleasant city. The 
trees have grown large, the shrubbery is handsome — particularly that pyramid ot 
evergreens on the south side — and great care is taken with the flowerbeds; and 
finally, you may see all the world pass by, for this park is surrounded more or less 
remotely by the homes of the most distinguished persons in Washington. 

Two noteworthy statues belong to this park. One is the familiar equestrian statue 
of GeneralandPresident Andrew Jackson, which is the work of Clark Mills, and prob- 
ably pleases the i)opulace more than any other statue in AVashington, but is ridiculed 
by the critics, who liken it to a tin soldier balancing himself on a rocking-horse. 

148 



144 



PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 



It was cast at Bla- 
densburg by Millw 

himself 
Jackson who was 
Statue. given 

cannon 
captured in Jackson 's 
campaigns for ma'e- 
rial, set up a furnace, 
and made the fi rst suc- 
cessful large bronze 
casting in America. 
Another interestini: 
fact about this statue 
is that the center of 
gravity is so disposed 
by throwing the 
weight into the hind 
(juarters, that the 
horse stands poised 
upon its hind legs 
without any support 
or the aid of any 
rivets fastening it to . 
the pedestal. This 
statue was erected in 
1853, and unveiled on 
the thirty -eighth an- 
niversary of the bat- 
tle of New Orleans. 
Its cost was $50,000, 
part of which was 
paid by the Jackson 
Monument Associa- 
tion. THE LAFAYETTE MEMORIAL IN LAFAYETTE SQUARE. 

The Memorial to Lafayette, in the southeast corner of the park, is a very different 
affair, and more in the nature of a monument erected by Congress to the services of 

the noble Fienchmen who lent us their assistance in the Revolutionary 
Lafayette War. Upon a lofty and handsome pedestal stands a heroic bronze 
IMemorial. figure of the Marquis de Lafayette, in the uniform of a Continental 

general ; while nearer the base, at the sides, are statues of Rochambeau 
and Duportail, of the French army, and D'Estaing and De Grasse of the navy. In 
front is "America" holding up a sword to Lafayette. This work is exceedingly 
vigorous and is after models by two eminent French sculi)tors, Falguiere and Mercie. 

Total cost, t;50,000. 
Site of Starting at Pennsylvania Avenue and walking north on Madison Place 

Lafayette (Fifteen-and-one-half Street), the new Lafayette Square Opera House 
Square is iuunedlately encountered, standing upon a famous site. The tall, 

Opera House, brick house which it displaced was originally built by Commodore 

Rogers, but soon became the elite boarding-house of Washington, and 
numbered among its guests John Adams ; John C. Calhoun, the fiery South Carolin- 




STREETS, SQUARES, AND RESIDENCES. 



145 



ian, while Monroe's Secretary of War and Jackson's Vice-President; and Henry Clay, 
when he was Adams' Secretary of State. Then it became the i^roperty of the 
Washington Club, and there assembled the rich and influential young men of the 
capital ; Sickles and Key were both members, and the tragedy which associates their 
names took place in front of its door ; later it became the residence of Secretary 
Seward, and there the deadly assault was made upon him by the assassin, Payne, 
at the time of the assassination of Lincoln in 1865. Its next distinguished occu- 
pant was James G. Blaine, Secretary of State in the Harrison administration, and 
there he died. 

The fine yellow Colonial house next beyond, now occupied by Senator Hanna of 
Ohio, was formerly owned and occupied by Ogle Tayloe, son of John Tayloe, of the 
Octagon House and INIount Airy, Virginia, who was in the early diplo- 
matic service, and one of the most accomplished Americans of his day. TaylOC 
All of his rare and costly pictures, ornaments, and curios, including HoUSC. 
much that had belonged to Commodore Decatur, passed into possession 
of the Corcoran Art Gallery. A later occupant was Admiral Paulding, a son of John 
Paulding, one of the captors of Andre, who suppressed Walker's filibusters in Nica- 
ragua. Lily Hammersley, now dowager Duchess of IMarlborough, was born there, 
and some of the most brilliant entertainments ever given in Washington have been 
under its roof. One of its latest occui)ants was Vice-President Hobart. In the next 
two houses have lived Secretary Windom, Senator Fenton, and Robert G. Ingersoll. 

The gray, mastic-stuccoed house on the corner of H Street, now the 
Cosmos Clubhouse, has also known many celebrated characters. It IMadison 

was built about 1825, by Richard Cutts, the brother-in-law of the HoUSe. 

brilliant and versatile "Dolly " Madison, the wife of President Madi- 
son. It came into Mr. Madison's possession just before his death, some twenty years 
later, and thither his wife, no longer 
young, but still beautiful and witty, held 
court during her declining years. After 
Mrs. Madison's death this house was 
occupied by such tenants as Attorney- 
General Crittenden ; Senator William 
C. Preston, afterward a Confederate 
Brigadier ; and Commodore Wilkes, 
commander of the celebrated exploring 
expedition, who, in 1861, was required 
to take his quondam near neighbor, 
Slidell, from the British steamer Trent. 
He gave it up when the Civil War broke 
out, and was followed by Gen. George 
B. McClellan, who established here the 
headquarters of the Army of the Poto- 
mac. " A sight of frequent occurrence 
in those days," remarks Mrs. Lockwood, 
"was the General with his chief of staff. 
General Marcy, his aids. Count de Char- 
tres and Comte de Paris, with Prince de 
Joinville at their side, in full military 
costume, mounted, ready to gallop off 
over the Potomac hills." Now its halls, 

•111 i i 1 J i J J STATUE OF PRESIDENT ANDREW JACKSi ifl 

remodeled and extended, are trodden =>>'^><j'^ ^ r ^^ ^^^^^ |^.|i^ 




lO 



146 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 

by the feet of men the most famous in the country as the investigators and devel- 
opers of scientific truth. 

Diagonally opposite the Cosmos Club, on H Street, is the square brick Sumner 
House, now a part of the Arlington. Where the main body of the Arlington Hotel 
now stands, there were three stately residences. One was occupied 
Sumner by William L. Marcy, Secretary of War under President Polk, and Sec- 

House. retary of State under President Pierce ; and when he retired, he was 

succeeded in this and the adjoining house by the Secretary of State, 
under Buchanan, Lewis Cass, who, like Marcy, had previously held the war portfolio. 
In the third mansion dwelt Reverdy Johnson, minister to England ; and there 
Presidents Buchanan and Harrison were entertained prior to their inauguration ; 
and there Patti, Henry Irving, President Diaz of Mexico, King Kalakaua, Dom 
Pedro, and Boulanger found seclusion. 

The great double mansion adjoining the Sumner and Pomeroy residence (united as 
the H-street front of the hotel) was built by Matthew St. Clair Clarke, long clerk of the 
House of Representatives, and afterward became the British Legation. Here lived Sir 
Bulwer Lytton, and his not less famous son and secretary, "Owen Meredith," now Lord 
Lytton,who is supposed to have written here his most celebrated poem,"Lucile." In later 
years the house was occupied by Lord Ashburton, who, with Daniel Webster, drafted 
the " Ashburton treaty," which defined our Canadian boundary. A still later occu- 
pant was John Nelson, Attorney-General in Tyler's Cabinet; and it is now the home 
of Mrs. Margaret Freeman. On the corner of Sixteenth Sti-eet is St. John's Episcopal 
Church ; and, passing for the present other newer residences, another old landmark 
calls for special attention. This is the Decatur House, facing the square 
Decatur on Seventeenth Street, at the corner of H, and easily recognized by its 

House* pyramidal slate roof This, which was the first private residence on the 

square, was constructed at the close of the War of 1812, by Commander 
Stephen Decatur, the hero of Tripoli, and one of the most popular men of the time. 
He was the author of the maxim — more patriotic than righteous — uttered asa toast: 
"My country — may she always be right; but my country, right or wrong!" His 
house was adorned with a multitude of trophies, gifts from foreign rulers, and rare 
knickknacks picked up in all parts of the world ; and here he was brought to die after 
his duel with Commodore Barron in Bladensburg, in 1820. Afterward it was occupied 
by the Russian minister, and then by Henry Clay, when he was Secretary of State 
under John Quincy Adams. When Martin Van Buren succeeded him, he took this 
house and cut the window in the south wall, in order that he might see the signals 
displayed from the White House by "Old Hickory," whom he worshiped. He in 
turn gave up the house to his successor, Edward Livingston, a brother of Chancellor 
Robert Livingston of New York, whose wife was that Madame Moreau whose wed- 
ding in New Orleans was so romantic, and whose daughter Cora was the reigning belle 
of Jackson's administration, as this house was its social center. Two or three foreign 
ministers and several eminent citizens filled it in succession, and gave brilliant parties 
at which Presidents were guests, the most recent of whom was Gen. E. F. Beale, 
under whose grandfather Decatur had served as midshipman. General Beale died in 
1894, and his widow now dwells in this storied old mansion. 

A few rods south, next the alley, is another house famous in the past. It is one of 
the navy traditions that it was built by Doctor Ewell of that service, 
Ewell and occupied by three Secretaries of the Navy, one of whom was the 

House* talented Levi Woodbury; then it was the home of Senator Rives of Vir- 

ginia, grandfather of the novelist, Amelie Rives (Chandler), and after- 
ward of Gen. Daniel Sickles, ^xtiose tragedy is indelibly associated with this beautiful 



STREETS, SQUARES, AJSTD RESIDENCES. 



147 




EQUESTRIAN STATUE OF 

MAJ.-GEN. GEORGE H. THOMAS. 

Thomas Circle. J. Q. A. Ward. 



locality. Vice-President Colfax was a 
still later tenant, and then the house 
passed into possession of the late Wash- 
ington McLean, editor of the Cincinnati 
Enquirer, whose daughter, wife of Ad- 
miral Ludlow, now resides there. 

In this same row, No. 22, the former 
residence of William M. Marcy, Secre- 
tary of War, and afterward Secretary of 
State (1853-57), is now the home of Mrs. 
R. H. Townsend, daughter of the late 
William L. Scott of Erie, Pa. Gen. J. 
G. Parke, who commanded the Fifth 
Army Corps, and was Chief-of-staff to 
Burnside, resides in No. 16 ; and No. 6 is 
the residence of Mrs. Martha Reed, sister 
of the late Admiral Dahlgren. Lovers 
of trees will take notice of 
the row of Chinese gingko GlflgfkO 

trees, which shade the Trees. 

sidewalk opposite this 
row of houses, on the western margin 
of the square. 

Fourteenth Street will make a good 
starting-point for a ramble in search of 
the historic, picturesque, and personal 
It is the great north-and-south line of 



features of Washington's streets and squares 
travel, extending far out into the high northern suburb of Mount 
Pleasant. Franklin Square, between Fourteenth and Thirteenth, and Franklin 

I and K streets, comprises about four acres, densely shaded, and is a Square. 

favorite place of resort in summer evenings. In its center is the spring 
of excellent water from which the White House is supplied, and where there is 
a public drinking fountain. The Franklin schoolhouse overlooks the square on 
the east, and the Hamilton and Cochran hotels are just above it on Fourteenth 
Street. The church on the next corner (L Street) is All Souls (Unitarian), diagonally 
opposite which is the Portland. This brings you to Thomas Circle, in the center 
of which is J. Q. A. Ward's bronze statue of Gen. George H. Thomas, the "Rock 
of Chickamauga" and hero of Nashville, which was erected, with great ceremony, 
in 1879, by the Society of the Army of the Cumberland, which paid $40,000 for 
the design and the casting. The pedestal, which bears the bronze in- 
signia of the Army of the Cumbei-land, and its ornamental lamps were Thomas. 
furnished by Congress, at an expense of $25,000. The statue is itself 
nineteen feet in height, and is finely modeled ; but many admirers of this sturdy, 
unassuming commander regret that in his representation there is not more man and 
less horse. 

Northwest of Thomas Circle, in front of Lutheran Memorial Church, stands one of 
the most artistic statues in the city, erected by the Lutheran Church 
of America to INIartin Luther. It was cast in Germany from the same Luther. 

molds as Rietschel's centerpiece of the celebrated memorial at Wurms, 
and expresses the indomitable attitude of the great reformer on all questions of con- 
Bcience. This statue is eleven feet in height and cost $10,000. 



148 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 

Fourteenth Street above this point has nothing of special interest, but is a hand- 
some and busy highway ; and its extension on the elevated ground of Meridian Hill, 
north of the city boundary, is rapidly being settled upon by important people. The 
gray stone castle, surrounded by large grounds, at the foot of the hill on the right, is 
called " Belmont," and belongs to A. L. Barber, owner of the Trinidad asphalt mines. 
Mrs. General Logan lives at Calumet Place, two blocks east, on the street north of 
" Belmont," where she lias a cabinet of relics of her famous husband which is fre- 
quently visited by veterans of the war. Mr. Justice Harlan of the Supreme Court 
resides on the opposite side of the street, two blocks north, at Euclid Place. 

Following H Street from Fourteenth westward. No. 1404, now known as the Els- 
mere Hotel, was for many years the residence of the late Zachariah Chandler. The 
Shoreham Hotel, the Colonial Hotel, and the Columbian University occupy the other 
corners, the new Law School of the latter conspicuous on H Street. 

The Columbian University is one of the oldest and best-equipped schools of higher 
learning vt the capital. It has a preparatory school and departments of undergrad- 
uate and postgraduate academic studies; special courses in science 
Columbian (Corcoran Scientific School), of medicine and dentistry, and of law. Its 
University. endowments now amount to about $1,000,000, and its faculty and list of 
lecturers include a large number of men in public life, from certain 
justices of the Supreme Court down. This is particularly true of the Corcoran Scien- 
tific School, where the lecturers are all men identified with special investigations at 
the Smithsonian, Geological Survey, or in some of the technical branches of the Army 
or Navy. This university, which was aided at the beginning by the Government, 
has always had access to and made great use of the libraries and museums which 
abound here and are of so great educational value. 

Continuing our notes westward along H Street : Gen. Chauncey McKeever, U. S. A., 
lives at No. 1508, and on the left-hand corner, at Madison Place, is the Cosmos Club. 
The Cosmos Club is a social club of men interested in science, of whom Washing- 
ton now contains a greater number, and, on the average, a higher grade, than any 
other city. This is due to the employment and encouragement given 
Cosmos Club, by the Smithsonian Institution, Agricultural Department, Geological 
and Coast Surveys, Fish Commission, Naval Observatory, technical 
dei)artments of the Treasury, War, and Navy Departments, and two or three univer- 
sities. This club may therefore be considered the intellectual center of the non- 
political life of the capital, and at any one of its delightful Monday evenings, half 
a hundred men of high attainments and wide reputation may be seen, and the 
conversation heard is, in its way, as interesting and inspiring as anything to be 
listened to in the land. The historic old house has been somewhat modified, chiefly 
by the addition of a large hall, which may be shut off from the remaining rooms 
and used as a meeting-room ; and there the Philosophical, Biological, Geographic, and 
kindred societies hold their meetings on stated evenings. 

The Arlington Hotel, including the former residences of Senators Sunmer and 
Pomeroy, is diagonally opposite the Cosmos; and next beyond is the "Bulwer 
House," and then St. John's Episcopal Clmrcli. All these i\ice Lafayette Square and 
have been elsewhere described. On the farther corner of Sixteenth Street, opposite 
St. John's, is the beautiful home of Col. John Hay, President McKinley's Secretary 
of State, the author of " Little Breeches," and, with Mr. Nicolay, of the principal 
biography of Lincoln. The yellow house. No. 1607, next beyond, was built and for 
many years occupied by Com. Richard Stockton, who added to a glorious naval record 
in the Mediterranean and West Indies the establishment of American rule in Cali- 
fornia in 1845. Later it was tenanted by Slidell, who, with Mason, was sent by the 



STREETS, SQUARES, AND RESIDENCES. 



149 



Confederate govermnent to Kuglaiul as a coinniissioner, Ijut was captured on the Trent 

by his quondam neighbor, Commodore Wilkes, who tlien Uved in the 

present home of the Cosmos Club ; it was the residence of Mr. Lamont StOCkton 

when Secretary of War. The adjoining house on the corner of Seven- HOUSC. 

teenth Street — which was for many years the residence of the late 

W. W. Corcoran, the philanthropic banker, to whom the city owes the Corcoran 

Gallery, the Louise Home, and other enterprises and . benefactions — is another of 

the famous homes of old Washington, and has been the residence of several men of 

note, including Daniel Webster. It was occupied by Senator Calvin S. Brice during 

the later years of his life, and is now the home of Senator Depew of New York. 

Crossing Connecticut Avenue, the corner house is that of the late Admiral Shu- 
brick, opposite which (on Seventeenth), facing the square, is the ancient Decatur 
House. Next beyond. No. 1621 H Street, is the residence of Judge J. C. Bancroft 
Davis, the diplomat, now reporter of the Supreme Court. In the old-fashioned square 
house adjoining it, to the west, George Bancroft spent the last twenty 
years of his life.and completed his History of the United States. Bancroft 

The Rich- House. 

m o n d , on 

the corner of Seventeenth 
Street, is a popular family 
hotel. The Albany, on the 
other side, is an apartment 
house for gentlemen ; and 
on the southwest corner is 
the Metropolitan Club, the 
largest, wealthiest, and 
most fashionable club in 
Washington, one rule of 
which is that members of 
the foreign diplomatic ser- 
vice, resident in Washing- 
ton, are ex officio members 
of the club, and need only pay stipulated dues in order to take advantage of its privi- 
leges. This block on H Street between Seventeenth and Eighteenth streets is familiarly 
known as the Midway Plaisance. Adjoining the Metropolitan Club are 
club chambers for gentlemen, and the large yellow house, next west- Clubs. 

ward, was the home of Admiral Porter, of the United States Navy. It 
is now the French Embassy. The Milton and Everett are family apartment houses; 
and No. 1739 was the residence of the late William A. Richardson, formerly Secretary 
of the Treasury, and afterward Chief Justice of the Court of Claims. 

In this neighborhood dwelt many old Washington families and some modern 
notabilities. The Everett House, on the southeast corner of Eighteenth and G, is 
historic. It was built and occupied by Edward Everett of Massachu- 
setts, when Secretary of State under Fillmore. Afterward it was the Everett 
home of Jefferson Davis, when Secretary of War, after his marriage House. 
with his second wife. He continued there during his term as Secretary 
of State, but not after he returned to the Senate. His successor in the house was 
another traitor in high place, Jacob Thompson, Buchanan's Secretary of the Interior, 
who became a member of the Confederate Cabinet in 1861. Then followed Capt. 
Henry A. Wise, a well-known officer of the navy, after whom the medical department 
of the navy used the house for many years. 




RESIDENCE OF SENATOR CHAUNCEr- fvi DEPEW. 
Corner Sixteenth and I Streets, N. W. 



150 



PICTOEIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 




The Wirt House is a few rods to the 
east of the Edward Everett house, on 
G, between Seventeenth and Eighteenth, 
on the south side. It is so called because 

that eminent jurist Hved 
Wirt House, here twelve years, during 

the administrations o f 
Monroe and J. Q. Adams. Mrs. Lock- 
wood tells us that it is not known who 
built the house, but that it was occupied 
at the beginning of the century by Wash- 
ington's private secretary, Col. Tobias 
Lear, a Revolutionary officer, who was 
the commis ioner that concluded the 
peace with Tripoli. Wirt was United 
States Attorney-General from 1817 to 
LS29. His gardens were large and beauti- 
ful, for his wife was exceedingly fond of 
flowers and was the author of "Flora's 
Dictionary." The most brilliant enter- 
tainments of that day were given here, 
until Jackson's time, when it was sold 
and occupied later by a succession of the Mexican embassy.- hi? ; street, n.w. 
Cabinet officers and high functionaries, one of whom gave a dinner to the Prince 
of Wales under its roof During or after the war it became the office of the Army 
Signal Corps ; and there the present weather service was developed. The present 
chief signal officer and arctic explorer, Gen. A. W. Greely, resides near, at No. 
1914 G Street. 

Going westward on I Street from Fourteenth Street, the first house on the right is 
owned and occupied by John W. Foster, the diplomat, who was Secretary of State 

under Harrison and, later, advisory counsel to China in her settlement 
1 Street. with Japan. The large brick house adjoining is the Mexican Legation. 

Chief Justice Waite lived in the house beyond the alley, now occupied 
by the widow of ex-Governor Swann. The brownstone mansion at No. 1419 is the 
residence of John W. Thompson, president of the National Metropolitan Bank. 
Senator Chandler of New Hampshire lives in No. 1421, once the residence of Caleb 
Gushing. The southeast corner of Fifteenth and I streets is the Chamberlin Hotel, 
which occupies three houses that formerly belonged to Fernando Wood, ex-Governor 
Swann of Maryland (who placed in one of them two Thoi-waldsen mantels from the 
Van Ness mansion), and James G. Blaine, who lived there when Speaker of the 
House of Representatives. Opposite Chamberlin's, on the southwest corner (No. 1500 
I Street), Hamilton Fish lived when he was Secretary of State, and it is now the resi- 
dence of John McLean, of the Cincinnati Enquirer. These houses face upon 
McPherson Square, one of the most finished of the city's smaller parks. 

The noble equestrian statue that graces this square was erected by the Army of 
the Tennessee to its commander, James B. McPherson, who was killed at Atlanta; 

and it was his successor. Gen. John A. Logan, who made the 
IMcPherson dedicatory oration, when, amid a great military disjjlay, this statue 
Statue. was unveiled in 187G. The sculptor was Louis T. Robisso, and 

the statue was composed of cannon captured in Georgia. The 
cost was about $50,000. 



STREETS, SQUARES, AND RESIDENCES. 



151 



Many fine residences and hotels face this square, and Vermont Avenue passes 
through it toward the northeast. 

Continuing westward, No. 1535 I Street is the residence of James G. Berret, who 
was mayor of Washington during the Civil War. Mr. Justice Gray lives in No. 1601 ; 
No. 1600 is the home of I\Irs. Tuckerman, the widow of a New York 
banker; No. 1617 was the residence of the late George W. Riggs, and Storied 

is now occupied by his daughters ; 1710 is the Women's Club; 1707 is Houses. 

the residence of INIrs. Stanley Matthews ; Paymaster-General Watmough 
of the navy lives in No. 1711, and John A. Kasson in No. 1726. No. 1731 is a famous 
house, having been occupied by Mr. Frelinghuysen when he was Secretary of State, 
William C. Whitney, Cleveland's first Secretary of the Navy, and John Wanamaker, 
when he was Postmaster-General ; it is now owned and occupied b)-^ S, S. Rowland, a 
son-in-law of the late August Belmont. In No. 1739, at the corner of Eighteenth 
Street, resides Harriet Lane Johnson, who presided at the White House during the 
Buclianan administration. Gen. T. H. Rucker, U.S.A., a prominent ofticer in the 
Civil War, and father of the widow of General Sheridan, lives at No. 2005; Admiral 
Selfridge dwells at No. 2013 ; Gen. Robert Macfeely, U.S.A., at No. 2015 ; and Prof. 
Cleveland Abbe, the meteorologist, at No. 2018. 

Following K Street westward from Twelfth Street, the first house on the southwest 
corner is the parsonage of the New York Avenue Presbyterian Church, occupied by 
the Rev. Mr. Radcliffe. In No. 1205 resides A. S. Soloman, the almoner of Baron 
Hirsch, the Jewish philanthropist. Number 1301 was once the residence of Roscoe 
Conkling ; No. 1311 was built by Ben Holiday, who operated the pony express across 




THE CHINESE LEGATION.— Corner Eighteenth and Q Streets, N. W. 



152 



PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 




RESIDENCE OF SENATOR J. 
1500 Sixteenth Street, 



FORAKER. 
N. W. 



the continent for many years before the 
construction of the Union Pacific Rail- 
way ; No. 1313 was formerly the home 
of Robert G. Ingersoll; ex-Secretary 
Ji'hn Sherman lives at No. 1321 ; and 
1325 was, during the war, the residence 
of Secretary Edwin M. Stanton ; John 
G. Carlisle lived at No. 1426; Admiral 
Worden, the commander of the Monitor 
during her fight with the Merrimac, 
lived at No. 1428, and Senator Gorman 
at No. 1432. The large house at the 
corner of Vermont Avenue and K Street 
is leased by Jefferson Levy, the Hebrew 
member of Congress from New York, 
and the brownst me front adjoining is 
the temporary headquarters of the At- 
torney-General. Representative Hitt of 
Illinois lives at No. 1507 ; Mrs. B. H. 
Warder at No. 1515 ; and the new yellow 

house near the corner of Sixteenth Street is the home of the widow of George 
W. Childs of Philadelphia. The house at the southeast corner of 

On K Street. K and Sixteenth streets, another of Richardson's jDroductions, is 
occupied by the widow of Nicholas Anderson of Cincinnati. Mr. 

Hitchcock, Secretary of the Interior, lived in No. 1601 ; Senator Wetmore of Rhode 

Island in No. 1609 ; the Rev. Dr. McKim, rector of Epiphany Church, at No. 1621 ; 

Senator Matthew Quay in No. 1620 ; Jerome B inaparte, the great-grandnephew of 

Napoleon, in No. 1627 ; ex-Senator Murphy of New York in No. 1701, and Titian J. 

Cofl'ey, an ex-Secretary of the Navy, lived in No. 1713. " Little Lord Fauntleroy " 

was written in the house at No. 1730, which was then the residence of Dr. Swan 

M. and Mrs. Frances Hodgson-Burnett — the former a distinguished oculist, 

and the latter the well-known novelist. 
Sixteenth Street, which 

starts from Lafayette 

Square, opposite the White 
H o ti s e , is 

Executive sometimes 

Avenue. known as 

Executive 

Avenue. St. John's Church 

is on the right, at the cor- 
ner of H Street, and the 

residence of Secretary John 

Hay on the left. At the 

northwest corner of 1 

Street Mr. Justice Gray 

of the Supreme Court re- 
sides, and back of him is 

Tlie (J o r d o n , a family 

hotel ; No. 9.30 is the home 

ofMaj. George M.Wheeler, 




RESIDENCE OF SENATOR EUGENE HALE. 
1001 Sixteenth Street, N. W. 



STREETS, SQUARES, AND RESIDENCES. 



153 



U. S. A., who conducted the "surveys west of the 100th meridian" with which 
his name is identified. Senator Hale of Maine lives at No. 1001 ; Surgeon-General 
Sternberg of the armj', at No. 1019 ; Senator Proctor of A'ermont at the northeast 
corner of L Street, and E. F. Andrews, the artist, at No. 1232. Passing Scott Circle, 
ex-Representative Huff of Pennsylvania resides at No. 1323 ; the Rev. Alexander 
Mackay-Smith, rector of St. John's Church, at No. 1325 ; Senator Foraker of Ohio, 
at 1500 ; W. G. Gurley, a Washington banker, at No. 1401 ; Mr. Justice Brown of 
the Supreme Court., at No. 1720 ; Gen. Rufus Saxton, U. S. A., at No, 1821, and other 
equally famous people on both sides. The conspicuous brownstone "castle" on 
high ground at the end of Sixteenth Street, on the left, is the home of ex-Senator 
Henderson, of Missouri. 

Massachusetts Avenue is one of the finest streets in the city, and a great promenade. 
It stretches parallel with Pennsylvania Avenue from Hospital Square, on the Anacostia 
River, northwestward through Lincoln Square, Stanton Square, Mount 
Vernon Square — a pretty little park where New York Avenue ci'osses IMassactlU- 
Eighth and Ksti-eets, three blocks north of the Patent Ofiice — Thomas sCttS Avenue. 
Circle, Scott Circle, Dupont Circle, and Decatur Circle, where it bends 
slightly and is extended through the elegant suburb on the banks of Rock Creek, and 
so out to the hilly region north of Georgetown. An excellent view of this stately 
Ijoulevard can be obtained at its junction with Twelfth Street, which is one of the 
highest points in Washington. Ascension Episcopal Church fills the northwest 
corner at this crossing. Robert Hinkley, the artist, lives in No. 1310 ; Mr. Justice 
Morris of the District Supreme Court, in No. 1314 ; J. Stanley-Brown, private secre- 
tary of the late President Garfield, and " Molly " Garfield, his wife, in No. 1318. Mr. 
E. Francis Riggs resides at No. 1311, and the widow of Admiral Dahlgren in No. 1325 ; 
No. 1330 is the Legation of Chile, and the large square house at the junction of M 

Street and Vermont Avenue, facing 
Thomas Circle, is the home of ex-Justice 
Wiley, ofthe District Supreme Court. Mr. 
Justice Brewer lives at No. 1412, Senator 
Cullom at No. 1413, S. H. Kauff'man, pro- 
prietor of the Evening Star, at No. 1421. 
The large red-brick house. No. 1435, is 
the German Embassy. The brownstone 
building surrounded by large grounds, 
on the south side of Massachusetts Avenue 
between Fifteenth and Sixteenth streets, 
is the Louise Home. It was 
founded by the late W. W. Louise Home. 
Corcoran, and nearly all its 
inmates are widows of ex-Confederate 
ofiicers belonging to the aristocracy of the 
South, who lost their fortunes during the 
war. Nearly opposite it was the home of 
the late Prof. Spencer F. Baird, long 
United States Fish Commissionerand Sec- 
retary of the Smithsonian Institution. 
The .familiar name for Scott Circle, the 
local ity around the statue of ( Jeneral Scott, 
at the junction of Massachusetts and 
STATUE OF GEN. wiNFiELD s. SCOTT. Rhode Island avenues, Sixteenth and N 




154 



PICTOKIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON". 



streets, is "Calamity Circle," because every person who built a house there died 
shortly afterward, or met with misfortune. 

This equestrian statue of Gen. Winfield Scott, the victor in the Mexican War, was 
erected in 1874. "It was modeled by H. K. Brown, and cast in Philadelphia from 
cannon captured in Mexico. Its total height is fifteen feet, and its cost 
Scott Statue, was $20,000. The pedestal is of granite from Cape Ann quarries, and 
is composed of five huge blocks, said to be the largest ever quarried in 
the United States. The cost of the pedestal was about $25,000. General Scott is rep- 
resented in the uniform of his rank as Lieutenant-General." 

The large house at the junction of N Street and Massachusetts Avenue is the resi- 
dence of Supreme Justice Shiras. The mansion to the northward, between N Street 
and Rhode Island Avenue, was erected by Prof. Alex. Graham Bell, inventor of the 
telei)hone, and after several years was sold to Levi P. Morton, who occupied it while 
he was Vice-President. The square brick house at the northeast corner of Sixteenth 
Street was built by Senator Cameron of Pennsylvania, and sold to Mr. D. P. Morgan, 
a New York banker, whose widow and family still reside there. On the opposite 
side of Sixteenth Street the late William Windom lived while he was a Senator 
from Minnesota and Secretary of the Treasury ; it is now owned and occupied by 
Charles A. Munn, formerly of Chicago. The house adjoining belongs to Stilson 
Hutchins. E. Kurtz Johnson, a banker, built and died in the house at the western 
corner of N Street. Continuing westward on Massachusetts Avenue, 
Fine Mr. SpofFord, of the Library of Congress, lives at No. 1621 ; No. 1627 is 

Residences, the residence of the widow of the late Senator Vance of North Caro- 
lina. The Attorney-General at No. 1707 ; the Secretary of the Treasury 
at No. 1715 ; Beriah Wilkins, of the Washington Post, in No. 1709 ; Senator Lodge of 
Massachusetts, in No. 1765. The castellated house opposite belongs to the widow of 
the late Belden Noble, and is occupied by the Spanish Legation. Gen. Nelson A. 
Miles lives near by at No. 1736 N Street; the Postmaster-General lives at No. 1774; 
Senator Fairbanks of Indiana lives at No. 1800; Mrs. Wadsworth of Geneseo, New 
York, owns the large house on the tri- 
angle opposite. The large mansion of lire- 
brick on P Street, back of it, is occujiied 
by William J. Boardman of Cleveland, 
Ohio. Passing beyond Dupont Circle, No. 
1915, adjoining the "Stewart Castle," is 
the residence of Paymaster Michler, of 
the navy, and on the corner opposite lived 
for many years the late Mrs. Craig Wads- 
wortli, who was a leader of Washington 
society ; No. 2013 is the residence of 
Charles M. Ffoulke, and the hall whicli 
adjoins it on the east was built to exhibit 
his collection of tapestries, which is one 
of the finest in the world. On the oppo- 
site side of the street, in tlie 
Blaine rear of the Blaine house, 

House. Miss Grace Denio Litch- 

field, the novelist, resides. 
Number 2100 is the residence of B. H. 

Warner, a Washington banker, and the residence of mrs u 

large mansion at No. 2122 was erected by 2111 Massachusetts av 




STEEETS, SQUARES, AND RESIDENCES. 



156 




the late Mrs. Patton, who inlierited a 
fortune gained by her husband in the 
mines of Nevada ; it is now octaipied by 
her four daughters. No. 2111, on the 
opposite side of the street, was erected 
by ex-Senator Edmunds of Vermont, 
and was sold by him in 1895 to the 
widow of General Grant, who now 
resides there with her daughter, Mrs. 
Nellie Sartoris. The large stone chateau, 
in French style, is the residence of Mrs. 
Richard Townsend. 

Connecticut Avenue, from H Street 
to the boundary, is the Sunday afternoon 
promenade. Starting northward upon 
our survey at Lafayette Scjuare, where 
the gardens of the old Webster house till 
the corner at the right, No. 814 was the 
residence, after the Civil Wai', of Admiral 
Wilkes, and is still occupied by his 
family. Just beyond is Farragut Square, 
a small, prettily planted park, in the 
center of which is a statue to the hero 
. of Mobile Bay and the Mississippi forts. 

This statue of Farragut represents 
him as standing upon the deck of his 
flagship Hartford, from whose propeller the metal of which the statue is com- 
posed was taken, and was cast in 1880, after models by Mrs. Lieu- 
tenant Hoxie, then Miss Vinnie Ream. It cost $25,000, and was Farragut 
dedicated in April, 1881, many of Farragut' s old shipmates taking Statue. 

part in the ceremonies. 

The large gray house on the next corner (numbered 1705 K Street) was originally 
the residence of Alexander R. Shepherd, the rebuilder of Washington. It was for 
many years the Russian Legation, and is now owned and occupied by Mrs. McLean. 
The houses back of it are usually occupied by attaches of the different legations. The 
large brick building at the corner of L Street, on the right, is a Catholic school for 
girls ; and the yellow house on the opposite corner of De Sales Street is the Grafton 
Hotel. Col. John M. W^ilson, Superintendent of Public Buildings and Grounds, 
resides at No. 1141; Senator Wolcott of Colorado, at No. 1221, and Prof. Thomas 
Wilson, anthropologist of the Smithsonian Institution, at No. 1218. The handgome 
stone church, with the large square tower, is the Presbyterian Church 
of the Covenant. On the opposite corner, to the north, is the British British 

Embassy. This is one of the few legations in Washington that are Embassy. 
owned, and not rented, by their governments, the others being those of 
Austria, Brazil, Germany, Japan, and Korea. It occupies the site, curiously enough, 
of the first and only cricket club at the capital, which ceased to play many years 
ago. On the point between Connecticut Avenue and Eighteenth Street stands the 
residence of Commander William H. Emory, U. S. N., now occupied by ex- 
Representative Reyburn of Philadelijhia. The Austrian Government occupies No. 
1307 as the residence for its Legation. Inspector-General Breckenridge, U. S. A., 
dwells at No. 1314 ; Admiral Carter at No. 1316 ; the family of the late Gar- 



BRONZE STATUE ADMIRAL DAVID G. FARRAGUT. 

Farragut Square, Intersection Connecticut Avenue and 

I Street, N. W. By Mrs. Vinnie Ream Hoxie. 



156 



PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 




THE BRITISH LEGATION. — Northwest Cr 



Connecticut Avenue and N Street, N. W. 



diner G. Hubbard at No. 1328, and Prof. A. Graliam Bell at No. 1321. These 
houses are upon Dupont Circle. 

Tliis i^retty circular park occupies the interior of the space made by the intersec- 
tion here of Connecticut, Massachusetts, and New Hampshire avenues, and F and 

Nineteenth streets. In its center stands the bronze statue of Admiral 
Dupont Samuel F. Dupont, a popular officer of the navy during the Civil War, 

Circle. which was designed by Launt Tliompson, cost $10,000, and was unveiled 

in 1884. Passing beyond Dupont Circle, the large red-brick house to 
the westward, on the x^oint between P .Street and INIassachusetts Avenue, was erected 
by the late James G. Blaine when he was Secretary of State in Garfield's Cabinet; it 
still belongs to his estate, but is occupied by Mrs. Westinghouse of Pittsburg. The 
gray, house, No. 8, is known as Castle Stewart. It was for many years the Chinese 
Legation, and there was given the famous ball, in 188G, when Washington was scan- 
dalized by scenes of social riot. It is now the residence of its owner, Senator Stewart 
of Nevada. The big cream-colored house, with the lofty pillared portico, at No. 1400 
New Hampshire Avenue, opposite, is the home of the wealthy merchant, L. Z. Leiter, 
formerly of Chicago, whose daughter mar/ led Lord Cnrzon, the viceroy of India. No. 
1611 Connecticut Avenue is the home of Mrs. Colton, whose husband was formerly 

treasurer of the Central Pacific Railroad. Francis B. Colton lives in 
Meridian the; I'nglish l)asement house, a little farther north. The large brownstone 

Hill. residence at the point between Connecticut Avenue and Twentieth 

Striset is the winter home of Mr. Perkins, of Boston ; the brick house, 
No. 1705, is the home of Lyman TiflFany ; the Belgian Legation is at 1716, and WiHiam 



STREETS, SQUARES, AND RESIDENCES. 



157 



E. Curtis, the newspaper writer and author of many books of travel, lives at No. 1801, 
at the corner of S Street. The little chapel on the hill above is St. Margaret's (Epis- 
copal). The Chinese Legation is at the corner of Eighteenth and Q streets. 

" Connecticut Avenue Extended " is the name applied to this street where, beyond 
Rock Creek, it resumes its straight course. It leads directly to Chevy Chase, and bids 
fair to become the highway of one of the best of the future suburban districts. 

On Rhode Island Avenue. The widow of Chief Justice Waite lived at No. 1616, 
just west of Scott Circle; and the widow of General Sheridan at No. 1617, across the 
way ; No. 1626 is the home of Elihu Root, Secretary of War, and at No. 1610, Mr. 
Olney, formerly the Secretary of State resided. No. 1741 is the historic house pre- 
sented to Admiral Dewey and transferred by him to his wife. The small "circle," 
at Vermont Avenue and P Street, is named Iowa, and is ornamented by a statue of 
Gen. John A. Logan, surmounting a briHize pedestal. 

New Hampshire Avenue is a long street nearly parallel with Vermont Avenue, 
reaching from the Potomac northeast to the boundary at the head of Fifteenth Street, 
and then extended through the distant suburb of Brightwood. There 
is a pretty triangle where it crosses Virginia Avenue; and where it New 

crosses Pennsylvania, K, and Twenty-third streets is a park named Hampshire 
Washington Circle. An equestrian bronze statue of Washington, Avenuc. 

modeled and cast by Clark Mills, was erected here long ago, at a cost of 
$50,000. The artist is said to have intended to represent him as he appeared at the 
battle of Princeton. 

Some distance above this, the triangle, at the junction of the Avenue N and 
Twentieth Street, is covered by the residence of Dr. Guy Fairfiix Whiting. Christian 
Heurich, who owns the brewery a block below, lives at No. 1307. Paymaster-General 
Stewart, United States Navy, resides at No. 1315 ; Mrs. Phoebe Hearst, widow of the 
late Senator from California, and famous for her charities, at No. 1400; and the 
widow of the late " Sunset " Cox at No. 1408. North of Dupont Circle the Leiter 
mansion is conspicuous, and that of W. C. Whittemore, another retired Chicago 
merchant, is on the next corner, at No. 1526. The large, white house opposite this is 
the home of Lieut. Richardson Clover, United States Navy. The Rev. P. Van Wyck, 
a retired chajjlain of the navy, lives at No. 1601 ; Representative Dalzell of Pennsyl- 
vania, at No. 1605; and Thomas Nelson Page, the novelist, on the corner of R Street. 
Some notable residences, away from tlie district surveyed al)Ove, should be men- 
tioned. The officers attached to the 
Navy Yard, to the Washington Bar- 
racks and to the cavalry post at Fort 
Meyer, dwell at these stations in the 
more or less cozy ([uarters provided by 
the Governmeiit for them. Senator 
Morgan of Alabama lives in a brown- 
stone house opposite the First Pres- 
byterian Church, at No. 315 Four-and- 
a-half Street. 

Mgr. Martinelli, the Apostle Legate 
of the Pope of Rome to the United 
States, resides at No. 201 
I Street. This house was Grant Gift 
presented to General House. 

RESIDENCE OF L. Z. LEITER, ESQ. ^^'^^^\ ^^V the citizens of 

New Hampshire Avenue and P Street, N. W. Washington at the cloSe Of the War, 




158 



PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 



and occupied by him until he was inaugurated as President. It was afterward the 
residence of Justice Bradley of the Supreme Court. The adjoining house, No. 
203, was presented to Gen. W. T. Sherman, who lived there for several years, 
and afterward on Fifteenth Street. Mrs. Jean Lander, once a famous actress, 
resides at No. 45 B Street, S. E., facing Capitol Park ; and John G. Nicolay, private 
secretary to President Lincoln, and his co-biographer with Mr. Hay, is at No. 212, on 
the opposite side of the same street. 




ADMIRAL DEWEY'S RESIDENCE. 
1741 Rhode Island Avenue. 



1 



XIII. 
EXCUESIONS ABOUT WASHINGTON. 

1. To Mount Vernon. 

The pilgrimage to the home and tomb of George Washington at Mount Vernon is 
regarded by most Americans as a duty as well as a pleasure, and foreigners look upon 
it as a comijliment due to the nation. It forms, moreover, a delightful excursion. 

Either of two routes may be taken to Mount Vernon — by steamboat on the 
Potomac — see page 211 for time table — or by electric cars. 

The electric trains of the "Washington, Alexandria & Mount Vernon 
Railway leave their station, Pennsylvania Avenue and Thirteen-and- ElectriC 

one-half Street, every hour, week-days, from 10 a. m. to 3 p. m, from May Railway 

1st to Nov. 1st, and from 10 A. m. to 2 p. m. from JSTov. 1st to May 1st. RoUte. 

These electric trains, which are the fastest and best equipped in the 
world, make the round trip in three hours, of which one hour and twenty minutes may 
be spent on the grounds. The fare is 50 cents for the round trip, or 60 cents including 
side trip to Arlington. All tickets allow stop-over privilege in Alexandria. The many 
points of interest as passed en route and described below are pointed out and 
cleverly explained by competent guides, who accompany all Mount Vernon trains. 
The route lies down Fourteenth Street, passing the Agricultural Department, 
Washington Monument, and Bureau of Engraving and Printing, 
crossing the Potomac by way of Long Bridge into Virginia. This Long Bridg'C. 
bridge, which will be superseded in a few years by a modern steel struc- 
ture, became famous during the Civil War as a military route into the seceding States. 
It commands a fine view of the Potomac, with the stately Arlington Mansion on the 
hills to the right. At its further end there still stands, plainly seen at the left of the 
track as soon as the first high ground is reached, Fort Runyon, a strong earthwork 
erected in 1861 to guard the head of the bridge from raiders. But a short distance far- 
ther is Arlington Junction, where connection is made for Arlington. A little beyond it 
the train passes St. Asaph and then skirts the base of Braddock Heights — the low hills 
upon which Braddock's army was encamped, in 1755, before undertaking that disastrous 
march against the French and Indians at Fort Duquesne (now Pittsburg), where 
Braddock was killed and his army saved from annihilation only by the genius of his 
young Colonial Aid, George Washington. The city of Alexandria is then entered 

Alexandria began, under the name of Bellhaven, in 1748, and had 
a promising early career. " It rapidly became an important port, and Alexandria. 
developed an extensive foreign trade. It was well known in the great 
English commercial cities. General Washington, Governor Lee, and other prominent 
Virginians interested themselves in its development, and at one time it was thought 
it would become a greater city than Baltimore. Warehouses crowded with tobacco 
and flour and corn lined its docks, and fleets of merchant vessels filled its harbor." 
The founding and advancement of Washington and the building of railroads, which 
diverted traffic to inland channels, destroyed its importance, and the coming of the 
Civil War ruined it socially. Here the Union troops began their "invasion" of Vir- 
ginia soil, and here fell Ellsworth — the first notable victim of the conflict. The old 
red-brick hotel where he pulled doM^n the Confederate flag is now pointed out to 
strangers at the corner of the first street beyond the railway station on Washington 
Street. It was called the Marshall House, 

159 



160 



PICTOEIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 




INTERIOR CHRIST CHURCH, ALEXANDRIA. 

The old town contains many quaint and interesting relics of the past, of which 

the most interesting is Christ Church (near the Washington Street 
Christ station), in which Washington's family and all the respectable persons 

Church. of his neighborhood used to worship. It has been kept as near as may 

be as it was in those days ; and the old square pew in which " His 
Excellency, the General," used to sit, gazing up at the high pulpit during the long 
and strong sermons, is still pointed out. Other things of interest for their ass ciations 
are the Masonic lodgeroom, where Washington and other prominent men of that day 
were wont to meel ; the house in which Braddock had his home and military head- 
quarters ; the local monument to Confederate soldiers (seen from the train at 
Washington Street), and other houses and objects. 

Soon after leaving Alexandria by way of King Street (with a station at King and 
Royal) the Potomac comes into view, and the train crosses upon a bridge the broad 

estuary of Big Hunting Creek, at the head of which was built, during 
Below tlie Civil War, Fort Lyon, one of the principal defenses of Washington. 

Alexandria. The red-brick building seen some distance up the stream is the 'f)Id 

Episcopal Theological Seminary, founded in colonial times. More 
plainly visible at the left is Jones Point, marked by a lighthouse. This was the 
southern corner of the original District of Columbia. Near the lighthouse is buried 
a marked corner-stone placed there with much ceremony by Washington and other 
founders of the Government ; and it was proposed to erect there a magniticent monu- 
ment. A mile fixrther on the position of Fort Foote on the other side of the river is 
seen ; and presently the track rises to liigher ground where, looking back, the Capitol 
is visible a do7.en miles away. Here, among peach orchards, begins the Mount 
Vernon estate, which in George Washington's time contained about 8,000 acres ; and 



EXCURSIONS ABOUT WASTITNOTON, 



161 



just buyoud Belmont Station is seen, some distauce at the left, the white house in which 
dwelt Col. Tobias Lear, Washington's secretary. The half-ruined barn, somewhat 
removed from the house, goes back to the early history of the property. The remainder 
of the run is through beautifid fields, with pleasant outlooks all around, frequent views 
of the river, and a sight of the flags flying over Fort Washington and Fort Hiuit. 

The terminus is at the garden gate of the Mount Vernon grounds, within three 
minutes' walk of the mansion. 

The river route to Mount Vernon, on historic Potomac, is by the 
magnificent iron steamer Charles Macalcster, built expressly for this River Route. 
service (capacity 1,500 passengers) with all modern conveniences. The 
steamer leaves Seventh Street wharf daily (Sunday excepted), 10 a. m. and 2.30 p. m., 
summer schedule (May 30 to November 1); 10 a. m. and 1.45 r. m., winter schedule 
(November 1 to May 30). Fare, round triji, 50 cents. Tickets, sold to cover transporta- 
tion and admission to the grounds, 75 cents. During the summer season pleasant day 
and evening trips via this steamer to historic Marshall Hall, opposite ]\Iount Vernon, etc. 

The Potomac River trip is one of great enjoyment on a fine day. As the steamer 
moves out into the stream, it rides in a broad tidal channel dredged for harbor pur- 
poses by the Government and kept full by a tidal reservoir above. The long artificial 
island which separates this harbor from the river itself will hereafter become a park. 
On the city shore, immediately below the wharves, appears the pleasant parade of 
Washington Barracks, or The Arsenal, as it is still more commonly called — a 




11 



CHRIST CHURCH, ALEXANDRIA. 



162 PICTOEIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 

military post on the peninsula between the Potomac and its eastern branch. Its land 
entrance is at the foot of Four-and-one-half Street, and is reached by electric cars 
from Pennsylvania Avenue via Seventh Street. A trifling settlement styled Carrolls- 
burg, with an earthen breast-high battery, existed on the extremity 
Washing:ton of this point, which was called Turkey Buzzard or Greenleaf's Point 
Barracks. when the city was laid out ; and in 1803 the peninsula was reserved 
for military purposes as far as T Street, S. W. What few buildings were 
there in 1814 were destroyed by the British, who lost a large number of men by drop- 
ping a "port-fii'e" into a dry well where a great quantity of navy powder had been 
hidden, thus producing an impromptu volcano. In 1826 the northern end of the 
reservation, as far back as U Street, denoted by the jog in the river wall on the Poto- 
mac side, was walled off as a site for a district penitentiary. A building was erected 
having a yard with a high inclosing wall, and here, in 1865, were confined the con- 
spirators in the assassination of Lincoln. Four of them were hung and buried there. 
Exactly where this execution and the interments were made is not accurately 
known, but it is believed that the gallows was planted near the circular flower bed 
now in front of the commandant's door, and that the bodies were buried near its 
foot. All were soon afterward removed, the penitentiary was swept away, the limits 
of the reservation were advanced to P Street, and, in 1881, the arsenal was abolished. 

The verdant parade, with its flag and guns, and avenue of big trees, its former 
storehouses, which during the war contained enormous quantities of arms and 
ammunition, and are now used as barracks, and its quadrangle of officers' quarters 
at the extreme point, make a pretty picture as we float past. As it is the head- 
quarters of a regiment of artillery it has the band, and during the pleasant half of the 
year, guard-mounting at 9 a. m. and dress parade at 5 p. m. are conducted with much 
ceremony, while battery drills can be seen almost any morning at 10 or 11 o'clock. 

The Anacostia River next opens broadly at the left, and the navy yard and 
southern front of the city are exposed to view. On the further bank looms up the 
great Government Hospital for the Insane, which cost $1,000,000, and 
Hospital is one of the finest institutions of its kind in the world. It is 

for Insane, primarily intended for demented men of the army and navy ; and 
there Lieutenant Gushing, of torpedo-boat fame, and Captain McGiffin, 
the hero of the imval fight of the Yalu, in China-Japan war, ended their blighted 
days. 

The low, level grounds of Giesboro Ponit, bordering the river below the asylum, 
were occuj)ied during the war as cavalry camps and drilling stations. Opposite it is 
the broad estuary of Four-Mile Run. Alexandria now comes into view. 

(A ferry also runs at hourly intervals between the Seventh Street wharf and 
Alexandria. The Macalester also stoi)S at Alexandria both going and coming.) 

Just below Alexandria the lighthouse and opening of Hunting Creek, already 
described, are passed. This creek gave its name to the Washington plantation before 
Lawrence Washington named it " Mount Vernon," in compliment to an admiral with 
whom he had served. Near here is a little stopping-place called Gunston Landing, 
where some of the river boats stop to take on milk and vegetables for the city 
market. It is the ancient landing for the estate of the eminent Mason family, whose 
colonial seat, Gunston Hall, is still standing a short distance inland, though no longer 
in possession of the Masons. It was a familiar calling-place for Washington, his 
nearest neighbor in fact. 

On the hilly Maryland side of the Potomac, toward which the boat now heads, 
was another commanding earthwork. Fort Foote, once of military importance. 
This fort was kept in repair for years after the Civil War, and the United States 



EXCUESIOlSrS ABOUT WASHIlSrGTON". 163 

still owns its site. The next stop is made, about twelve miles below the city, at 
Fort Washington, a historic fort on a point of the Maryland shore, within sight of 
Mount Vernon and commanding the channel. Tradition says that the early 
explorers of the Potomac found an Indian "castle" here, and that 
Washington advised the building of a fort on this headland, as soon as Foft 

the District of Columbia was created. L'Enfant drew its plans as his Washington. 
last public work, and a strong fortress was begun, but was blown up by 
the Americans in 1812, when they heard that the British were coming. It was 
rebuilt in 1898, under the threat of war with Europe, and made the principal defense 
of the capital against sea attack. The principal battery consists of five 8-inch rifles, 
mounted on disappearing carriages, behind enormous embankments of earth and con- 
crete, 200 feet above the river level. These guns command the river for a distance of 
twenty miles, and have an extremely accurate range of over six miles. Fort Sheridan 
is being constructed, nearly opposite, where will be mounted two huge 12-inch rifles, 
having an even longer range and more destructive fire, besides several 8-inch guns. 
Arrangements are making for the placing of sub-aquatic mines in the river whenever 
needed, controlled from these forts. It is believed that it would be impossible for an 
enemy to reach the cai)ital by sailing up the river. The only hope of reduction of the 
forts would be from the land side, and here elaborate defenses, to be defended by 
mortar batteries, fixed and field artillery, and large bodies of infantry, are now in 
process of construction. Extensive barracks are building at Fort Washington, 
which is destined soon to become, probably, the most important garrison station 
near the capital. 

The United States Fish Commission maintains a fish-hatching station near Fort 
Washington. 

Mount Vernon is on the right bank of the Potomac, sixteen miles below Wash- 
ington. The lands about it were a part of an extensive grant to John Washington, 
the first of the family who came to America in 1656, and they descended 
rather fortuitously, in 1752, to George, then hardly more than a lad. IMount 

He married in 1759, and continued to develop and beautify the e.state Vcrnon. 

until the breaking out of the Revolution, when the ability he had 
shown in the Virginia militia called him to the service of the United Colonies. He 
returned to Mount Vernon at the close of the war, but, to his grief, was obliged soon 
to quit its beloved acres fjr the cares of the first Presidency of the Republic. Dur- 
ing this interval of five years an almost continuous stream of visitors had been enter- 
tained there, and among them were many foreigners of note as well as representative 
Americans of tlie time. Finally, in 1797, the great commander was released from the 
cares of government, and ena]:)l('d to retire, to pass, as he hoped, many quiet and 
enjoyable years upon his plantation. Only two years were vouchsafed him, however, 
for on December 14, 1799, he died of membranous croup (or barbarous medical treat- 
ment) following exposure in a storm. He was buried upon his own estate, and the 
family declined to accept the subsequent invitation of Congress to transfer the body 
to the undercroft of the Cajiitol. 

For sixteen years Washington cultivated his great farm and lived the usual life of 
a Virginia planter. He raised large quantities of tobacco, which he shipped to Lon- 
don direct from his own wharf at Mount Vernon. He had no ambition 
for public life after his term of service in the Virginia Legislature had The Estate. 
expired, and was content with the pursuit of agriculture and the social 
pleasures of a country gentleman. He had some of the best society in Virginia — 
"the polite, wealthy and fashionable" — was a profuse and liberal host, was fond 
of fox hunting, fishing, fowling, and athletic sports, and was happy in his home and 



164 



PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASIIINGTOlSr. 



domestic relations. His wife was thoroughly domestic in her tastes and habits, and 
a careful housekeeper. 

Washington's property, estimated as worth $530,000, descended, at the death of 
Mrs. Washington, here, in 1802, to Bushrod Washington, then a Justice of the 
Supreme Court, who died in 1829, leaving the estate to his nephew, John Augustine 
Washington, from whom it passed by legacy, in 1832, to his widow, and from her, in 
1855, to her son. He proposed to sell it, when a Southern lady. Miss Ann Pamela 
Cunningham, secured the refusal of it, and, after failing to interest Congress in her 
proposal that the Government should buy and preserve it as a memorial, succeeded in 
arousing the women of the country. An association of these women, named Mount 
Vernon Ladies' Association of the Union, with representatives from every State, was 
incorporated by Virginia in 1856, and in 1858 it paid |200,000 for the central part of 
the property (some 200 acres), covenanting to hold it in perpetuity. The admission 
fee of 25 cents goes to the payment of current expenses. 

The approach to Mount Vernon, by the river, impresses one with the sightliness 
of the situation and the dignity of the mansion, which shines among the trees from 
an elevation 150 feet above the landing wharf. 

" In the summer. Mount Vernon is a mass of foliage to the river's edge. It has a 
great growth of ancient trees and luxuriant undergrowth. Like all the region in which 
it is located, it is thickly wooded, and from the river has an exceedingly picturesque 
appearance. The mansion is very nearly concealed by the trees surrounding it. 

There is only one place as 
you approach it from the 
north where it can be seen 
it all. Approaching it from 
ihe south nothing of it can 
be seen save a small part of 
the roof. From the south 
the river curves directly to 
the estate. Until you get 
within a short distance of it 
a high, jutting bank hides 
it from view. When the 
bank is passed the estate 
comes boldly in sight and 
presents a most beautiful 
appearance. It is located 
on an elevation — the high- 
est point on the Virginia side of the Potomac — and from the grounds delightful views 
of river and shore can be obtained through openings in the groves of trees." 




THE OLD TOMB. 



Grounds and Build ini>s* 



The Tomb of Washington is the first object of attention, and stands immediately 
at the head of the path from the landing. Its position, small dimensions, and plain 

form of brick were dictated by Washington in his will. The back part 
Tomb of of it, extending into the bank, and closed by iron doors, entombs the 

Washington, bodies of about forty members and relativi's of the family. The front 

part, closed by plain iron gates, through wliich anyone may look, con- 
tains two plain sarcophagi, each excavated from a single block of marble, which were 
made and presented by John Struthers of Philadelphia, in 1837. That one in the 



166 



PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 



center of the little inclosure holds the mortal remains of the Father of his Country, 
within the mahogany coffin in which they were originally placed. At his left is the 
body of his " consort," Martha Washington. Both the sarcophagi are sealed and are 
intended never to be opened ; nor are the vaults at the rear. Four times a year, 
however, the iron gates are opened by the authorities, and it is on these occasions 
that the wreaths and other offerings of flowers are deposited. 

This was not the first burial-place of Washington. At the time of his death his 
body was placed in the older and smaller family tomb a few steps farther north and 

nearer the river, which is now overgrown with ivy and shaded by 
Old Tomb. immense oaks. Here Mrs. Washington was laid beside him, and there 

they remained until 1837, when they were removed to their present 
resting-place. Judge Bushrod Washington and several other relatives of the family 




THE TOMB OF GEORGE WASHINGTON. 

are buried near by, beneath monuments that bear their names, and between the 
Tomb and the river-bluff used to be buried all the slaves who died upon the estate — 
how many is unknown ; but the only one marked is that of the old nurse of Mrs. 
Jane Washington, one of the latest occupants of the estate, and the last person to be 
entombed within the vault. 

The Mansion itself stands upon an eminence overlooking broad reaches of the 
Potomac, and 125 feet above it. It is built of wood, the framework being of oak, is 
96 feet long by 30 feet wide, and has two stories and an attic. The 
The eastern or river-facing front is shaded by a portico, as high as the eaves, 

I^ansion. supported by eight square posts of wood, and paved at the level of the 

ground with tiles imported from England in 178(3 ; this pavement is 14J 
feet wide. The roof of the portico is crowned by an oi-namental balustrade half con- 
cealing the four dormer windows by which that side of the attic is lighted ; and the 
ceiling and posts of the portico are neatly paneled. 

This river-facing side, though no more conspicuous, is less interesting architec- 
turally, than the western or landward front of the house, which was the one most 



EXCUESIONS ABOUT WASHINGTON. 167 

often approached by visitors in the old coach-traveling days. This has no 
porch, but presents an extended plain front, with an ornamental 
central and two side doors, symmetrically disjiosed, while the Western 

roof is pleasingly broken by a low gable and two dormers, and by Front. 

the little central cupola and two large chimneys. 

From each end of the mansion, on this side, curving colonnades connected with 
it the kitchen on the left and the office of the estate on the right ; and a generous 
lawn stretched before the house, shaded along the sides and at a distance by numer. 
ous great trees which still survive, and containing a sun-dial. This was called the 
Bowling Green, and terminated at the gate on the highway by which carriages 
entered the home grounds. 

The Kitchen was a spacious house nearly all of one end of which was devoted to a 
huge fireplace, whose andirons and turnspit are still in place, and a fire still burns 
upon tlie hearth. Here a light lunch is served and souvenirs are sold 
by the Ladies' Association. Next the house stands the original tvell, Outbuilding^S. 
from which one may still pump a drink of water ; and just beyond it is 
the great Smokehouse, always so important an adjunct to every self-supporting Southern 
establishment. Beyond the smokehouse, on the road which leads southward toward 
the Tomb and steamboat landing, is the old Laundry, and then the Coachhouse in 
which may be seen an old-time chaise, said to have been one of the Washington car- 
riages : in the General's time this house was the shelter for his great white chariot-of- 
state. Then comes the Barn, the oldest building on the estate, which was constructed 
by Washington's father, in 1733, from bricks said to have been imported from Eng- 
land. Its roof, of course, is new, and the building is still serviceable. 

The outer buildings at the right (or north) of the house, include the building in 
which the manager of the estate resided, and where was the Business Office; it is now 
the office of the Superintendent. Just beyond was the Carpenter Shop ; and in the 
rear of this a larger building called the Spinning-House where, in old times, the slave 
women gathered to spin and weave the cotton, wool, and flax for the clothes of the 
servants and to make garments and rag carpets ; the room is now filled with looms 
and spinning wheels. Still farther away in this direction is seen the row of restored 
buildings originally the quarters of the colored servants required about the house, 
stables, and gardens. The field hands lived in cabins scattered about the estate. Near 
them are the greenhouses. 

The Gardens are perhajis the most interesting places in the whole grounds. They 
were laid out in a firmal style of walks and beds, as was then the fashion, defined by 
hedges of box, which still grow luxuriantly and are kept well trimmed 
as of yore. In the early summer they are a marvel of flowers and beau- Gardens. 
tiful foliage. That enclosure on the north side, between the lawn and 
the negro quarters, was the rose garden. It contains specimens of that rose named 
by Washington for his mother, and others bearing his own name and that of Nellie 
Custis. It is no wonder, as we are told, that it was one of the regular afternoon 
pleasures of Madame Washington to gather rose leaves here to make rose water and 
a certain perfumed unguent for which she was famous among her friends. It was a 
habit of the family to ask distinguished guests to plant something as a keepsake, and 
several of these mementos still flourish. The little structure at the end of the long 
walk in the garden is reputed to have been the schoolroom of the Custis children. 
The "Vineyard Enclosure," as Washington designated it, in the rear of the kitchen, 
was devoted more to fruit and vegetables, yet was a charming garden, too. 

The Summer House, on the brow of the river bluff, stands upon the site of an 
original one, and has beneath it a deep cellar suitable for storing ice. The slope of 



168 



PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 



the bluff was devoted by Washington to the purposes of a deer park, and deer have 
been replaced there since 1887. 



The Mansion and Its Relics. 

The mansion is divided interiorly by a broad hall running from side to side, and 
having the main stairway, and here one may well begin the survey of the interior. 

When Mount Vernon was acquired by the Ladies' Association it was not only out 
of repair but the furniture had been distributed to various heirs or sold and scattered. 
An effort was at once made to recover as much as possible, in order to 
Interior. restore as closely as might be the original home-like appearance of 

the house. As it has been impossible to do this thoroughly a great 
many other articles of furniture, adornment, and historical interest have been added. 
In order to do this the various State branches of the Association were invited to 
undertake to refurnish one room each, and many have done so, and the names of 
these States are identified with the apartments they have taken charge of. A con- 
siderable quantity of furniture as well as personal relics of George and Martha 
Washington are here, however, especially in the bedrooms where they died. These 
are mostly distinctly labeled, so that the visitor can distinguish between what 
belonged to the Father of his Country and what is simply illustrative of the domestic 
life of his day. 

The Central Hall contains three of Washington's dress swords, the most interesting 
of which is the one bequeathed to his nephew Lewis, since it is the one he wore 

when he resigned his commission at Annapolis, when he was inaugu- 
Central Hall, rated President at New York, and elsewhere on ceremonious occasions. 

Another was worn by him in the Braddock campaign. Here, also, 
hangs the main key of the Bastile — that prison in Paris which was so justly hated 




THE CENTRAL HALL. 



by the people, and which was demolished by the mob in 1789. Lafayette sent it to 
AVashington with a cliaracteristic letter; and also the model of the Bastile in the 
Banquet Hall. Lafayette's Agreement to servo as Major-Genoral in the American 
army hangs near by. The hall appears as it was redecorated by Washington in 



EXCURSIONS ABOUT WASHINGTON. 169 

1775, and the engravings are reprints of pictures he owned. The tall clock on the 
stairs was presented by New Jersey ; the table belonged to W. A. Washington. 

The Music-room or East Parlor opens from this hall by the first door at the right, 
and is under the care of the Vice-Regent of the Association from Ohio. It is crowded 
with objects, of which the most conspicuous is the harpsichord that 
was given to Nellie Custis by Washington, together with his grand IMusiC-room. 
militarj' plume, when she married Laurance Lewis in 1798. "When 
the hour came the tall, majestic figure emerged from his bedroom clad in the old, 
worn continental buff and blue . . . and at the appointed moment gave tlie 
pretty, blushing creature, with her wild-rose cheeks and dark and liquid eyes, into 
the keeping of his trusted nephew, Laurance." It is such gracious, homely pictures 
as these that rise to the imagination as one loiters about the st jried homefe*tead of 
the Father of his Country. Here also are the stool belonging to the piano, and 
Miss Custis' embroidery frame ; Washington's flute — of rosewood, silver-mounted — 
his card-table, the guitar and music-book of a relative, and in the cabinet many small 
articles of tableware, his spectacles, a steel camp-fork, etc., which belonged to the 
General or his family. The upholstering of the reproduced furniture and the form 
of the Venetian mirror are like that originally here. 

The West Parlor, entered by the second hall door on the right, looks, in its walls, 
ceiling, and handsome corner fireplace, as it did when Washington left it. Above the 
mantel are carved the coat-of-arms of the family, and his crest and 
initials appear cast in relief on the iron fireback ; the mantel jiainting West Parlor. 
of ships is said to portray a part of the fleet at Carthagena of that 
Admiral Vernon after whom the estate was named. The carpet is a large rug 
presented by Louis XVI to Washington. It was woven to order, is dark green with 
orange stai's ; its centerpiece is the seal of the United States, and the border is a 
floriated design with swans. The globe and several chairs here also belonged to 
the furniture of the house. A spinet and two fine old candlesticks will be noticed, 
the latter standing upon a beautiful pier table. This room was refurnished by 
Illinois. 

The first door on the left opens into Mrs. Washington's Sitting-room, refurnished 
by Georgia in the manner of the period. The mahogany secretary once stood in 
Washington's military headquarters at Cambridge, Mass.; and the 
tables and mirror are historic. Some elaborate candlesticks and a Sitting-roOdl. 
sconce for candles are noteworthy, and the latter belonged in the 
family ; while there is here preserved a candle molded for the illumination at York- 
town in celebration of Cornwallis' surrender. The engravings representing the siege 
of Gibraltar hung in this same house when its master was alive. 

TJte Dining-room is next beyond, and still has the appearance and much of the 
furniture of the time of its illustrious owner. The Italian mantel and stucco orna- 
ments of the walls, cornice, and ceiling are admirable; and the orna- 
mented fireback came from "Belvoir," the country seat of Lord Fairfax, Dining:-room. 
Washington's early friend and patron, while the andirons and fender 
belong to the Rutledge house. The sideboard was Washington's, and the cut-glasa 
decanter and table cutlery and cases ; while the china in the corner cupboard is a 
copy of the set given to Mrs. Washington by the officers of the French fleet in 1792. 
The rug, tables, and chairs belong to that period; and among the portraits of 
Revfjlutionary generals on the walls is one of Miss Cunningham, who originated 
the Mount Vernon Association. 

The southern end of tlie house is occupied by a .second stairway and by a large 
apartmeut known as the Library in which are gathered an original mahogany 



170 



PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASIIINGTOlSr. 




THE BANQUET HALL. 

bookcase, and a few of the volumes which belonged to Washington, most of the remain- 
der of which are now in the Athenaeum Library of Boston. The shelves 
Library. of the bookcases are now filled mainly with duplicates of those Wash- 

ington possessed and with literature about Washington ; and upon the 
walls hang reprints of documents connected with his public life, one of which is a 
printed proof of the Farewell Address, corrected by Washington's own hand. A silver 
inkstand, some chairs, a painting of the Great Falls of the Potomac, made at his 
request, and a few small articles are personal relics. 

The Banquet Hall is an addition made to the northern end of the house after 
George received it from his father. Its length is the whole breadth of the mansion, 
and its richly ornamented ceiling is two stories in height, while it is 
Banquet lighted by a broad, arched and mullioned window. Opposite the win- 

Hall, dow is a highly ornate iireplace and mantel of Italian marble and 

workmanship, which once occupied a place in the home at Wanstead, 
England, of Samuel Vaughn, who brought it to America as a gift to Washington in 
1785. The center of the hall is occupied by a great table, similar to the original one, 
upon which lies Washington's "plateau " of silver and mirror-glass, intended aa an 
ornament for the center of the table on ceremonious occasions. His punch bowl is 
also to be seen among many other small articles of use or ornament that were in the 
house, and which are now safely locked in a cabinet. The model of the Bastile, a 
French clock that still keeps good time, two porcelain vases, silver bracket lamps, a 
mirror, rosewood stands for flower Abases, a surveyor's tripod, and lesser objects are 
identified with the house and its owners; while a lock of the General's hair and 
Martha's ivory fan are peculiarly personal and precious. The old silk standard is 
reputcid to have been captured by Washington ; and visitors should examine closely 
the portrait woven upon silk, in French Jacquard looms, which cost $15,000, so elab- 
orate a process was required. A great painting by Rembrandt Peale fills the west- 
ern end of the room, which has been fitted up by New York. 

Of the bedrooms on the second floor the most interesting to all is that of the 
General himself — the Room in lohich Washington died. It is at the south end of the 
house, over the library, and the ladies of Virginia have been able to restore it more 
nearly to its original appearance than any other part of the house. The bed is in 



EXCURSIONS ABOUT WASHINGTON. 



171 




ROOM IN WHICH GENERAL WASHINGTON DIED. 

tlie same place and the same one upon which Washington died, and the chairs, small 
tables, and mirror were a part of the scene. The hangings of the win- 
dows and bedstead copy those of the time ; two cushions were worked Death 
by Martha Washington and a dimity chair cover shows the needlework Chamber. 
of her granddaughter; while parts of Washington's traveling chest and 
camp equipage remind the beholder of his stormy life. There is little else in the 
room than what properly belongs there, and the simplicity is impressive. 

Martha Washington died, three years after her husband, in the room in the attic 
immediately above this — a bedroom she had chosen because his room 
had been closed (as was the custom), and from this south attic window Martha's 

she could see his grave. Wisconsin has refitted her room as nearly as Rooni. 

possible as it was when Martha slept there, but only the corner wash- 
stand really belonged to her. Other rooms on the second floor are known by special names. 




ROOM IN WHICH MARTHA WASHINGTON DIED. 



172 



PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 



The Lafayette Room is so called because the Marquis occupied it when at Mount Vernon; 

it was refitted by New Jersey. The River Room, by Pennsylvania, con- 
Bedrooms. tains furniture identified with Franklin and other of Washington's 

friends and relatives. The Guest Chamber is due to Delaware; the Green 
Room to West Virginia; and that in which Nellie Custis slept to Maryland, where the 
bedstead and other furniture all belonged to old Southern families who lived in a 
style very similar to that at Mount Vernon. The Upper Hall, communicating with 
these bedrooms, has a cabinet in which are to be seen several of the Mount Vernon 
fire-buckets, a brown suit of clothes, with velvet waistcoat and silk stockings worn 
by Washington, and a compass and reading glass that were used by him, as well as 
several relics of members of his family and descendants. The musket was brought 

to America by Lafayette. 
Attic. In the Attic a series of small bedrooms have been furnished by the 

vice-regents of various States, with articles of colonial manu- 
facture and interest. 

2. To Arlington National Cemetery and Fort Meyer. 



Arlington, an estate identified in a peculiarly intimate manner with the history of 
the founding and preservation of the Union, and singularly beautiful withal, would 
be one of the most attractive places at the National Capital apart from 
Beauty of the sacred interest imparted to it by its soldier dead. For several gen- 
the Estate. erations before the Civil War the home of the Custis and Lee families, 
it has been devoted since that time to the purposes of the foremost of 
the national military cemeteries. Here, behind the inscribed arches of the great 
gates, made from the marble pillars of the old War Department building, and under 




ARLINGTON HOUSE. — Formerly the Home of General Robert E. Lee. 



EXCURSIONS ABOUT WASHINGTON. 



173 



the oaks that belonged to the greatest of " their enemy," sleep almost a score of 
thousands of Union soldiers, and every year sees the eternal enlistment in their ranks 
of many more — among them officers of rank and distinction famous for deeds that 
shall make their names immortal. 

Two routes may be taken to Arlington, and the best way is to patronize both, 
going by one way and returning by the other. This prevents retracing one's steps, 
and makes the course of walking down hill. In pursuance of this 
method take the Pennsylvania Avenue cars (if the F Street cars are KoutCS. 

taken, descend the stone steps from Prospect Street to Pennsylvania 
Avenue at the Union station) to the extremity of the line (Union station. Thirty -sixth 
Street) in Georgetown, and walk across Aqueduct Bridge to Roslyn, Virginia, where, 
at the western extremity of the bridge, electric cars may be taken to Fort Meyer and 
the northern gate of Arlington Cemetery. This is a ride of hardly ten minutes, and 
the whole trip from the Treasury c Misumes only thirty-five minutes 
when close connection is made; fare from Roslyn, 10 cents; round Public 

trip, 15 cents. Public carriages start from the terminal station at the Carriages. 
Fort Meyer gate, in which passengers are given a tour of the cemetery 
for 25 cents ; a stop of five minutes is made at the mansion, whe'-e a lay-over ticket 
is also given if asked. 

The distance from the Fort Meyer gate to the Mansion, following the main road 
and flagstone walk, is about a third of a mile, and shows nearly all of the older and 
more cultivated part of the Cemetery. Southward of the path the 
graves of thousands and thousands of soldiers of the Civil War spread Soldiers' 

away through the woods, as far as can be seen, each marked by a small Graves. 

marble headstone, with liere and there a more prominent mark. At 
intervals are placed, in front of tliis fatal and impressive array, iron tablets bearing 
lines or stanzas selected from Col. Theodore O'Hara's eloquent poem, 



THE BIVOUAC OF THE DEAD. 



The muffled drums sad roll has beat 

The soldier's last tattoo ; 
No more on life's parade shall meet 

That brave and fallen few. 



Sons of the dark and bloody ground, 

Ye must not slumber there, 
Where stranger steps and tongues resound 

Along the heedless air ; 



On Fame's eternal camping-ground 
Their silent tents are spread, 

And Glory guards, with solemn round, 
The bivouac of the dead. 



Your own proud land's heroic soil 

Shall be your fitter grave ; 
She claims from war its richest spoil — 

The ashes of her brave. 



No rumor of the foe's advance 

Now swells upon the wind ; 
No troubled thought at midnight haunts 

Of loved ones left behind. 



Rest on, embalmed and sainted dead I 
Dear as the blood yo gave ; 

No impious footsteps here shall tread 
The herbage of your grave; 



No vision of the morrow's strife 
The warrior's dream alarms. 

No braying horn nor screaming fife 
At dawn shall call to arms. 



Nor shall your glory be forgot 
While Fame her record keeps, 

Or Honor points the hallowed spot 
Where Valor proudly sleeps. 



The neighing troop, the flashing blade, 

The bugle's stirring blast 
The charge, the dreadful cannonade, 

The (fjn and shout are past. 



Nor wreck, nor change, nor winter's blight, 

Nor time's remorseless doom. 
Shall dim one ray of holy light 

That gilds your glorious tomb. 



174 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 

On the left, or north, of the path the hillock is more irregularly dotted with mon- 
uments to commissioned officers of the army, many of whom were distinguished in 
the Mexican or Indian wars previous to that of 1861-65. Beside many 
Graves of of them rest their wives, in accordance with the privilege given by the 
Officers. Government. Here, among many of less note, rest such famous com- 

manders as Belknap, Burns, Gleason, Gregg, Harvey, Hazen, Ingalls, 
King, Kirk, Lyford, Meyer (whose idea it was that these grounds should be set apart 
for this purpose), McKibbin, Paul, Plummer, Steadman, Turtellotte, and many 
others ; and the monuments are often exceedingly appropriate. The interest 
increases as the Mansion is approached. This noble house, whose pillared portico 
is so well seen from the city, stands upon the brow of a magnificent 
Site and hill overlooking the valley of the Potomac and the Federal city ^ a 

View. broad and beautiful view. On the brow of this bluff are buried officers 

of special distinction and popularity, and here may be seen the graves 
and monuments of some of the Union's latest and most distinguished defenders. 
Here lie Gen. Philip H. Sheridan, beneath a grand memorial stone ; Admiral David 
D. Porter, Maj.-Gen. George H. Crook, whose monument bears a bi'onze bas-relief of 
the surrender of the Apache Geronimo ; Maj.-Gen. Abner Doubleday, the historian of 
Gettysburg; Generals Meigs, Ricketts, Benet and Watkins; Colonel Berdan, 
of "sharpshooter " fame, and others. In the rear of the mansion is a 
Temple of miniature temple upon whose columns are engraved the names of 
Fame. ^ great American soldiers ; and a lovely amphitheater of columns, vine- 

embowered, where Decoration Day ceremonies and open-air burial 
services may be conducted. Near it is a great granite mausoleum in which repose the 
bones of 2,111 unknown soldiers gathered after the war from the battle field of Bull 
Run, and thence to the Rappahannock. It is surrounded by cannon and bears a 
memorial inscription. Near by, in a lovely glade, is buried Gen. Henry W. Lawton, 
killed fighting in the Philippines in the autumn of 1899. 

The victims of the destruction of the battleship Maine, in Havana, and several 

hundred soldiers who lost their lives in Cuba and Porto Rico, during the war with 

Spain, in 1898, are buried together in the southern part of the cemetery. 

Soldiers and reached by a pleasant road, winding through the peopled woods ; and 

Sailors of their monument is a battery of great naval guns. 

the Cuban The Arlington mansion is a fine example of the architecture of its 
War. era, and resembles Jefferson's mansion at Monticello. Its upper floor 

is occupied by the official in charge, but the lower rooms are mainly 
empty, and visitors are content with a glance at them, preferring the open air and 
light of the lawns and gardens about the house, and the groves that now cover the 
adjacent fields. This old home of the Colonial aristocracy is not only 
The l^ansion. closely identified with the annals of early Virginia, but with the polit- 
ical develox^ment of the country. It was bought as a tract of 1 , 160 acres, 
for £11,000, by John Custis, who, early in the eighteenth century, came from the 
Eastern shore to live on his new property. His was one of the "first families of 
Virginia" in every sense of the word, and possessed great wealth; but he had various 
domestic troubles, one of which was, that his high-spirited son, Daniel Parke Custis, 
insisted upon neglecting a high-born heiress, prepared by his parents for his future 
consoi't, and marrying, instead, pretty Martha Dandridge, the belle of 
Custis Williamsburg, the Colonial capital. The old gentleman was very angry. 

Family. until one day, we are told, Martha Dandridge met him at a social gath- 

ering, and fairly captivated him. The marriage was made and prospered, 
and, when old Custis died, his son and his wife came into possession and residence 



176 



PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 




THE TEMPLE OF FAME. 

here at Arlington, where Daniel soon died, leaving Martha a young widow with two 
children, John Parke and Eleanor Custis. His will entailed this estate to his son, and 
divided his other property, the wife receiving, as her share, lands and securities worth, 
perhaps, $100,000. In due time this rich and blooming widow re-entered society, 
where she presently became acquainted with a Colonial colonel, who had recently 
achieved military fame in Braddock's expedition against Fort Diiquesne. He lived 
with his mother at Mount Vernon, only fifteen miles below, and his name was George 
"Washington. It was not long before he had wooed and won the charming and opulent 
widow, who laid aside her weeds and went with her two children to live at her hus- 
band's home. Together they managed and cared for the Arlington estate, until its 
young owner should come of age, and both were often there. The daughter died, but 
the son grew to manhood, received his noble property, married a Calvert, and served 
upon his stepfather's staff' during tlie latter part of the Revolution. Then he, too, 
died (1781), and his two infant children were adopted by Washington and deeply 
loved. They kept their own names, however, and Nelly, who seemed to have 
inherited the beauty of lier grandmother, married Major Lewis, a Virginian. Her 
brother, George Washington Parke Custis, upon reaching his majority, inherited and 
took possession of Arlington, at the beginning of the present century ; and immedi- 
ately began the erection of the present mansion, which, therefore, Washington himself 
never saw, since he died December 13, 1799, while this house was not completed until 
1803. A few months afterward, Mr. Custis married Mary Lee JFitzhugh, one of the 
Randolphs, and four children were born to them, but only one survived, a daughter, 



EXCUESIONS ABOUT WASIIHSTOTON. 



177 




TOMB OF THE UNKNOWN DEAD. 




TOMB OF GENERAL PHILIP H. SHERIDAN. 



12 



178 



PICTOEIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTOlSr. 




THE SHERIDAN GATE 



ngton 



Mary. The Custis family 
lived at Arlington, improv- 
ing and beautifying the 
estate, winning the good 
opinion of all who knew 
them, and entertaining 
handsomely until the 
death of Mrs. Custis, in 
1853, and of her husband, 
the last male of his family, 
in 1857. The estate then 
fell to the daughter, who, 
meanwhile, had married 
a young army officer, Rob- 
ert E. Lee, 
The Lees. son of 

" Lighthorse 
Harry " Lee, the dashing 
cavalryman of the Revo- 
lution, entwining into the story of the estate another strand of the best fabric of Vir- 
ginian society. Arlington immediately became the home of this officer, and when 
the Civil War came, and Colonel Lee went out of the Union with his State, his great- 
est personal sacrifice, no doubt, was the tliought of leaving Arlington. Indeed, so 
little did he foresee that he was going to be the leader of a four-years' struggle, that he 
took away none of the furniture, and very few even of the great number of relics of 
Washington, many of intrinsic as well as historic value, which the house contained. 
Federal troops at once took possession of the estate, and everything of historical value 
was seized by the Government, so that most of the collection, with other relics, is now 
to be seen at the National Museum. Arlington could not be confiscated, because 
entailed ; but the non-payment of taxes made a pretext for its sale, when it was 
bought in for $23,000, by the United States Government, which established the 
military cemetery here in 1864. When, several years after the war, G. W. Custis Lee 
inherited the estate, he successfully disjiuted, in the Supreme Court, the legality of 
the tax-sale, but at once transferred his restored rights to the Government for 
$150,000, which was paid him in 1884. 

The return from Arlington is easily and pleasantly made by walking down to 
one of the gates and taking the cars of the Washington, Alexandria & Mount Vernon 
Railway for Washington, by way of the Long Bridge. Three hours will suffice to 
make this trip satisfactorily. The grounds remain open until sunset. 

A visit to Fort Meyer may well be combined with this excursion. 



3. To Fort Myer. 

The principal military post near Washington is located on the Custis estate- 



•of 



nearly two square miles, with a mile frontage on the Potomac, opposite the city. It was 
occupied by the military forces when Col. Robert E. Lee resigned from the army in 
1861. Officers and privates who died of wounds in hospitals near Wasliington were 
interred in one section and the remainder was used during the war for fortifications, 
store houses, and drill grounds for military service, and as a refuge for the slaves of the 



EXCURSIONS ABOUT WASHINGTON. 179 

South. After peace was established many of the earthworks were razed aud now officer's 
quarters, barracks, drill hall, aud hospital, on well paved streets, make 
Signal Corps a model army post. Recently a section has been allotted to the signal 
Post. corps — a large balloon house, electric buildings, signal apparatus, aud 

officers' and privates' quarters add greatly to the interest visitors show 
in military works, and to the importance of this United States reservation. The only 
rail route to Fort Myer is by trolley car from Aqueduct Bridge, a distance of two miles, 
and an elevation of two hundred foet being traversed in about* five minutes. The 
track and roadbed of this line aro on private right-of-waj% and of standard construction 
throughout. Climbing this terrace of the Potomac Valley are views of the river and its 
bridges, the Capitol, Washington's Monument, White House, and other Government 
buildings. Arriving at the Summit Station, on one side is seen the Arlington National 
Cemetery with its marble columns embowered amid magnificent oak trees. On the 
other side the Fort Mj'er bvuldings are in contrast, a city of military life. Beyond, 
toward Columbia aud Nauck Springs, is the parade ground, a rolling table-land. The 
railway extends two miles farther, giving visitors to Washington an opportunity of 
seeing the most prominent and interesting points in the center of Alexandria County. 
Tickets and all information as to points of interest, and every convenience for travelers 
are found at the railway stations. At the Rosslyn Station, which is pJso a post office, 
there is a good lunch and dining room. Over the bridge runs a transfer coach to the 
Pennsylvania Avenue cars. Nearly everyone, however, prefers to walk across the bridge 
aud enjoy the views of beautiful Analostan Island — for many years the home of the 
famous Mason family of Virginia. Large factories are also seen in Rosslyn, and the 
Alexandria County Court House, on the Falls Church line, near Fort Myer, although a 
modern building, contains numerous historical records. 

4. To Falls Church, Virginia. 

Nestling among the green hills of old Virginia, at an altitude of nearly 400 feet, and 
distant but six miles from the city of Washington, lies the historic and beautiful town 
of Falls Church; historic as containing one of the oldest churches of the State, where 
Washington formerly worshiped, and as the scene of many skirmishes during the 
prolonged civil strife, and the camping ground of both armies; beautiful both from the 
hands of nature and of man. Situated in an elevated valley, protected by the sur- 
rounding hills from the violent storms which sweep over the prairies and low lands, 
this romantic spot was selected, directly after the Civil War, as the homes of enterprising 
Western and New England citizens who were attracted to it by its beauties and many 
natural advantages. Most of these citizens, being employed in the Government service, 
have sufficient means to beautify their homes, which they have done by planting shade 
trees, making beautiful lawns, flower gardens, etc. According to the last census, the 
nominal inhabitants of the town are 1,007, but the number is nearly doubled during the 
summer months by the influx of Washington City people, who delight to spend the 
heated term in a cool and healthy locality, free from malaria and mosquitoes. Its 
inhal)itants are cosmopolitan, being originally from nearly all parts of the country. The 
little town is incorporated and has a mayor, council, town sergeant, and clerk. It lies 
partially within the limits of the original District of Columbia (now known as Alexandria 
County) and partially within Fairfax County. It is easily accessible by two railroads — 
the W. & O. Branch of the Southern Railway passing through the eastern boundary, and 
the Washington, Arlington & Falls Church Electric Railway passing from the east to the 
west end of the village. Cars leave the Aqueduct Bridge on the electric road every hour 
during the day until three o'clock, and every half hour thereafter, and every half hour on 



180 



PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WABIIINGTOlvr. 



Sundays and holidays, making the trip to Falls Church in about twenty minutes, the 
rate for the round trip being twenty -five cents and to West End thirty cents. This road 
also makes a commutation rate of seven cents per trip. Many of the business men of 
Washington, realizing the healthfulness and advantages of the Falls Church locality, 
have settled there, notable among whom is A. M, Lothrop, of the firm of Woodward & 
Lothrop, who has purchased a large farm which he has improved with every modern 




RESIDENCE OF A. M. LOTHROP, FALLS CHURCH 



convenience; Messrs. Rufus and Rezin Darby have also erected large and substantial 
dwellings near there. The late Gen. H. W. Lawton formerly resided there, owning one 
of the most beautiful places in the center of the town. Admiral Porter at one time owned 
a cottage there, and Dr. P. M. Ri.xey has recently purchased a large stock farm which 
he is rapidly improving. Several retired army and naval officers have also located there. 
Falls Church is strictly a temperance town, no license for the sale of liquor having been 
granted there for many years. Its public schools are of a high order, and it also 
maintains a high school. Among the public institutions of the town is the Virginia 
Training School for Feeble-minded Children, and a public library. It has churches of 
nearly every denomination, the oldest of which is the Episcopal Church, erected in 1747 
and still occupied. Telegraph and telephone lines give rapid communication to all 
parts of the country. A telephone exchange is maintained there centralizing the tele- 
phone business of all that section of thecountrj', and from there messages are transmitted 
over trunk lines to all long-distant points. Falls Church is a desiraljle place in which 
to reside, and a delightful i)lace to visit. It is well supplied with physicians, dentists, 
lawyers, and other prof es.sional men; has a good hotel, livery stables, and several large 
boarding houses, the "Falls Church Inn," and the " Evergreens " being the principal 
summer resorts. Many historical points of the country are easily accessible from Falls 
Church. Fairfax Court House, the county seat of Fairfax Coimty, is only eight miles 
distant. Washington's original will, in his own handwriting, is deposited with the 
county clerk, who is the official custodian. He also has in his po.ssession many other 
old and valuable documents. Capt. Jos. E. Willard and many other prominent men 



I 



EXCURSIONS ABOUT WASHINGTON. 



181 



residf there. The l)iitlle-flel(ls ol' Bull iiiui and Mauassas are a short distanee west and 
easily accessible by driving over a beautiful undulating country. Muuson's Hill, the 
place where McClellan reviewed his magniliceut army, is a little over a mile south of 
Falls Church, ('amp Alger is located near Falls Church, the site being selected by 
Secretary Alger ou account of its known healthfulness and abundance of pure water. 
In going to Falls Church over the electric road the county of Alexandria is traversed 
from east to west, passing the new county court house, recently erected, and passing 
near the old Caleb Gushing mansion, as well as many other beautiful, well-kept country 
residences. Alexandria County is rapidly increasing in population. Many wealthy people 
have recently located there, having homes ou the heights overlooking the Potomac. 
The tourist can not spend a more profitable or pleasant day than to take a trip over the 
electric line to Falls Church, and from thence to some of the historical points men- 
tioned. 

"The Falls " (Episcopal) Church was erected in the year 1747 by the reigning monarch 
of England, the brick used in the structure being brought from that country. This 
church was one of the several erected along the Potomac and James rivers about that 
time, and this being located nearest to the Great Falls of the Potomac, was called "The 
Falls Church," and from that the town derived its name. Regular services are still 
maintained and the church is kept as near as possible in its original condition Many 
visitors are attracted to it on account of its ancient appearance, and historical connection. 




FALLS CHURCH (EPISCOPAL), FALLS CHURCH 



182 



PICTORIAL CtUIDE TO WASHIlSrGTOlT. 




VIRGINIA HOME AND TRAINING SCHOOL FOR THE FEEBLE MINDED, FALLS CHURCH, VA. 



Washington having used it as a phice of worship prior to the erection of the Pohick 
Chapel. Another account of Falls Church is as follows: 

Falls Church (Episcopal) was erected in 1773, for £600. Christ Church, Alexandria, 
was built the same year, and of both churches General Washington was a vestryman. 
The contract for Falls Church was taken by James Wrenn, who was to be paid either in 
currency or its equivalent — 32,000 pounds of tobacco. It was furnished after the old 
style, with box pews, a high, wine-glass pulpit, and tablets on either side the chancel 
with the decalogue and the Lord's prayer in large letters. The floor was laid with tiles, 
undoubtedly imported. The church fell into disuse before the close of the last century, 
and was in an abandoned state for a number of years, the roof having fallen in and cattle 
finding shelter within its walls. Afterward it was repaired by Mr. Henrj"^ Fairfax, a 
grandson of the Rev. Bryan Fairfax, at his own expense and thoroughly restored. It 
was long in charge of the Rev. R. Templeman Brown as rector, and was in a flourishing 
condition at the breaking out of the war, when it was taken possession of by the United 
States troops, first as a hospital and subsequently as a stable, the pews, pulpit, tablets, 
floor, and even a part of the walls being destroyed. After the war it was repaired, cheaply, 
and has been used since as a place of worship, though in a languishing state. 

Its communion service, the gift of friends, is of solid silver, mostly from plate and 
from the sale of watches, jewelry, etc., given for the purpose. 

Its churchyard has numerous graves, and some ancient tombstones are still to be 
seen. The present sexton, Mr. John Ljaich, has, in the thirtj'four j'ears he has held 
that position, buried there 262 persons, mostly people of the neighborhood. 

The Virghiia Home and Training School for the Feeble-minded was established in 
1893, and is the only private institution of the kind in the South. It receive.^, at reason- 
able rates, all classes of the feeble-minded, and its equipment and accommodations are of 
the best. The house is large and comfortable with all modern conveniences. The 



I 



EXCUESIONS ABOUT WASHINGTON. 



183 



grounds are beautiful and extensive, affording ample room for exercise and games. For 
full particulars address, Miss M. Gundry, Falls Church, Va. 



5. To the Soldiers' Home, Rock Creek Churcli, Fort Stevens, 

Battle and National Cemeteries, the Catholic 

University, and Brookland. 

The Soldiers' Home stands in the midst of a noble park, with a wide outlook from 
high grounds directly north of the Capitol, from which it is distant four miles in a 
straight line. It is a favorite terminus for driving and bicycling, beautiful roads lead- 
ing thither from the head of Connecticut Avenue or Fourteenth Street, and less 
desirable ones returning through the northeastern quarter of the city. Two lines of 

street cars approach the Soldiers' Home, giving the tourist an alternate 
Route. route going and coming ; and he should devote the better part of a 

day to this excursion. The direct route out is by the cars north on 
Seventh Street, connecting with the Brightwood line from the boundary to the Eagle 
or western gate of the Soldiers' Home grounds. A short distance beyond the 

boundary, at the right of the road, are seen the tall brick buildings 
Howard of Howard University — a collegiate institution founded soon after 

University. the war, as an outgrowth of the Freedmen's Bureau, for the education 

of colored youths of both sexes. Its first president was Maj.-Gen. O. 
0. Howard (who had resigned from the army temporarily to undertake this work), 
and it has maintained itself as a flourishing institution, having some three hundred 
students annually. 




THE SOLDIERS' HOME 



184 PICTOKIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 

The new Distributing Reservoir, to which the famous and incomplete " Lydecker 
Tunnel " was intended to carry water from the Potomac conduit, occupies the high 
ground north of the university. 

The ride out to the end of this road, at the District limits, is a very pleasant one 
all the way ; and if one is fond of walking, he can do well by going on through the 
suburban villages of Potworth and Brightwood to Silver Springs and 
Takoma — ^the latter a station on the Baltimore & Ohio Railroad almost Country 

at the extreme northern corner of the District. It is then a very RoadS. 

pleasant walk back to the Soldiers' Home, along the Blair and Rock 
Creek Church roads, near the railroad, which are bordered by luxuriant hedges of 
osage orange. This is a fair country road for bicycles. Extensions of electric lines 
are progressing, one line now reaching to Forest Glen, Maryland. 

Near Brightwood, in plain view off at the left as you go out upon the cars, are the 
crumbling parapets of Fort Stevens, which was one of the agencies in protecting the 
city against Confederate attack in 1864, when fighting occurred all through these 
woods and fields. ^ 

Early's Raid, in July, 1864, was the only serious war scare Washington had, but 
it was enougli. Panic-stricken people from the Maryland villages came flocking in 
along this road, bringing such of their household goods as they could 
carry. For two or three days the city was cut off from communication Early'S Raid. 
with the outside world, except by way of the Potomac River. The dis- 
trict militia was reinforced by every able-bodied man who could be swept up. 
Department clerks were mustered into companies and sent to the trenches, with any 
odds and ends of fighting material that could be gathered. There was an immense 
commotion, but the capital was never so demoralized as was alleged of it at the 
time. Within forty-eight hours, from one source and another, 60,000 men had 
been gathered. Meanwhile the stubborn resistance made some miles up the river, by 
Gen. Lew Wallace, whose wide reputation as the author of " Ben Hur,'' "The Fair 
God," etc., was still to come, who delayed the invading host against frightful odds 
until the fortifications were well manned, had saved the city from being sacked and 
the President from capture. It is not too much to say that Wallace's prompt and 
courageous action did this thing. Wallace was forced back, of course, but when 
Early got him out of the way and reached the defenses north of the city, he found 
the old Sixth Corps there, and, contenting himself with a brisk skirmish in the fields 
in front of Fort Stevens, he fled, carrying away the plunder of hundreds of desolated 
Maryland farmhouses. The President was not only intensely anxious but eagerly 
interested. Noah Brooks, in ais "Washington in Lincoln's Time," saj'S of him : 
" He went out to Fort Stevens during the skirmish ... on July 12, and repeat- 
edly exposed himself in the coolest manner to the fire of the rebel sharpshooters. 
He had once said to me that he lacked physical courage, although he had a fair 
share of the moral quality of that virtue ; but his calm unconsciousness of danger, 
while the bullets were flying thick and fast about him, was ample proof that he 
would not have dropped his musket and run, as he believed he cer- 
tainly would, at the first sign of physical danger." Battle 

Those killed in this affair were buried in the little cemetery by Cemetery. 
the Methodist Church, now called Battle Cemetery. 

The Soldiers' Home is the forerunner and type of those which were erected in 
various parts of the country after the Civil War, but it is not in the same class. It is 
an institution established in 1851 by the eff"orts of Gen. Winfield Scott, and out of cer- 
tain funds received from Mexico, as a retreat for veterans of the Mexican War, and 
for men of the regular army who have been disabled or who, by twenty years of 



EXCURSIONS ABOUT WASHINGTON. 



185 



m 



honorable service and a payment of 12 cents a month, have acquii-ed the right of 
residence there the remainder of their Uves. Tliis gives the veterans a pleasing sense 
of self-support, in addition to which many are able to earn monej' by working about 

the buildings and grounds and in various ways. There are ordinarily 
History of about five hundred men there, who live under a mild form of military 
Soldiers' discipline and routine, wear the uniform of the army, and are governed 

Home. by veteran officers. The affairs of the Home, which has now a fund of 

over $1,000,000 and a considerable independent income, are adminis- 
tered by a boai'd composed of the general of the army and his principal assistants at 
the ^^'ar Department. 

" The main building is of white marble, three stories in height, and is fashioned 
after the Norman order of architectui'e. On the grounds are several elegant marble 
cottages occupied by the officials, a pretty church of Seneca stone, a capacious hospi- 
tal building with wide piazzas, from which charming views of Washington and the 
Potomac can be had, a fine library building, well stocked with books and periodicals, 
and numerous other structures. On the brow of one of the hills stands a bronze 
statue of General Scott, by Launt Thompson, erected by the Home in 1874, at a cost 
of $18,000. The entire estate is inclosed 
by a stone wall, surmounted by a small 
iron fence of handsome design. Fifty 
acres are under cultivation, an<J fine 
crops of fruits and vegetables are 
raised. 

"Near the main building is a large 
cottage often used by the Presidents of 
the United States as a summer residence. 
It is surrounded by noble trees, and has 
a very attractive appearance. Pierce was 
the first President to pass the summer 
here, and Buchanan, Lincoln, Johnson, 
Hayes, and Arthur have preferred its 
quiet comfort to the statelier life in the 
AVhite House." 

In the rear of the Home, on the 
wooded slope beyond Harewood Road, 
lies one of the national military ceme- 
teries, entered by an arch upon whose 

pillars are inscribed the 
Cemetery. names of great Union 

conunanders in the Civil 
War. Here rest the remains of about 
5,500 Federal and 271 Confederate sol- 
diers, less than 300 of whom are un- 
known. The grounds contain a pretty 
stone chapel, in which lies the body of 
Gen. John A. Logan. 

Rock Creek Church and its beautiful 
cemetery, nortlieast of the Soldiers' 
Home, and separated from it by the fine 
Rock Creek Church Road, are worth ^j^^^j^ of general winfield scoTT. 

examination. soldiers' Home. By Launt Thompson. 





186 



PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON". 




'MEMORY." — By Partridge. Rock Creek Cemetery. 



This is the oldest house of worship 
in tlie District of Columbia, or near it, 
and was erected in 1719, by the planters 
of the neighborhood, of bricks imported 
from England as ballast in empty tobacco 
ships. It was remodeled, however, in 
1868, and now appears as a small steeple- 
less structure nearly hidden among great 
trees and surrounded by ancient graves 
and vaults, whose tablets bear the names 
of the foremost of the old Maryland 
families and earh' Washingtonians. The 
oldest graves are nearest the church; and 
one headstone is pitted with marks of 
minie balls, showing that some soldiers 
have used it as a convenient target. 
The cemetery is still used, and contains 
two splendid bronze mortuary statues, 
one of which, by St. Gaudens, at the 
grave of Mrs. Adams, is 
that mysterious veiled IMemorial 

sitting figure entitled, StatUes. 

"Peace of God," which 
is famous throughout the 



art world. 

The monument above the grave of Peter Force is also of much interest. In Mrs. 
Lockwood's " Historic Homes" will be found a long incidental account of the history 
of this sacred spot and the relics still used in the service of the old church. 

A delightful homeward way is to walk 
across, a mile or so, through the paths 
of the Soldiers' Home park to the termi- 
nus of the Eckington electric railroad ; 
but many will be interested, instead, 
to go around the Militarj' Cemetery, and 
up the hill to the right, where, in the 
woods, may still be seen the star-shaped 
embankments of Fort Totten, with 
numerous rifle-pits and outworks.^ This 
is one of the best preserved and most 
accessible of the old forts, and its parapets 
command a wide and beautiful landscape. 
From Fort Totten the Itarewood Road 
may easily be reached and followed 
southward along the eastern side of the 
park until it emerges upon the campus 
of the Catholic University. 
OThis is the national institution of 
higher learning established by all the 
Catholic bishops of the United States in 
the Third Plenary Council of Baltimore, 
and is regarded by Pope Leo XIII as one "GRief." — By Augustus St. Gaudens. 

of the chief honors of his pontificate. Rock Creek cemetery. 




EXCtJUStOKS ABOUT WASHINGTOIT. 



187 



The grounds comprise seventy acres, and the visitor is at once struck by the stately 
appearance of the structures already erected. Divinity Hall was 
Catholic erected in 1889. It is a solid stone structure of 266 feet front 

University. and five stories in height ; the lower floor is given up to classrooms, 
museums, and the library; the upper floors are occupied with the lodg- 
ings of the professors and students of the department of divinity ; the top story is a 
well-equipped gymnasium. The Divinity Chaptl is admired by all visitors. The build- 
ing to the right is known as the MclNIahon Hall of Philosophy, and was dedicated in 
1895. It is built of granite throughout, is 250 feet front, and five stories high. It 
consists entirely of lecture-rooms, classrooms, laboratories, and museums. It accom- 
modates two great schools or faculties, each comprising several departments of study. 
The School of Philosophy comprises departments of philosophy proper, letters, 
mathematics, physics, chemistry, biology, and has attached to it a department of 
technology giving full instruction in civil, mechanical, and electrical engineering. The 
School of the Social Sciences comprises 
departments of ethics and sociology, 
economics, political science, and law. 
The former faculty leads up to the 
degree of Ph. D., the latter to all degrees 
in law. Immediately adjoining the 
university are three afliliated colleges, 
called St. Thomas' College, the Marist 
College, and the Holy Cross College. 
Each of these contains from fifteen to 
twenty students of philosophy and the- 
ology, and their professors. They attend 
courses in the university. The divinity 
courses are attended only by ecclesias- 
tics of the Catholic Church. To the 
legal, philosophical, and scientific 
courses lay students are admitted, with- 
out regard to their religious creed. 

The old country village and present 
suburb of Brookland lies just beyond, 
and farther on are Hyattsville and other 
suburban residence centers, reached by 
the Eckington line of electric railway, 
which extends northeast as far as Ber- 
wyn, Maryland. The time of return- 




JOHN HOWARD PAYNE MONUMENT. 
Oak Hill Cemetery. 



ing from the University and Soldiers' Home Station by this 
Suburban line is about twenty-five minutes. Just south of the station, west 
Towns. of the suburban district of Edgewood, through which the line passes, 

are the Glenwood, Prospect Hill, and St. Mary's (Roman Catholic) 
cemeteries, which contain the graves of many famous persons and some tall monu- 
ments. Nearer the city line is the fine suburb, Eckington, in the midst of which, 
upon a beautifully wooded hill, is the Colonial building of the Eckington Hotel, open 
in summer. This line enters the city along New York Avenue, and terminates at 
the Treasury. 



188 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTOIST. 

6. To the "Zoo," Rock Creek National Park, and Chevy Chase. 

This is an excursion into the northern and most beautiful corner of the District, 
reached by taking tlie cars out Fourteenth Street to the boundary, and then (by 
transfer) the Chevy Chase line. The latter extends from Sixth Street 
(connecting with the Seventh Street line) along U Sti'eet West, through RoUtes. 

Hancock Circle (where New Hampshire Avenue crosses Sixteenth 
Street), and thence turns up the hill at Eighteenth Street, and goes across Rock Creek, 
and out into the country, along Connecticut Avenue Extended, passing on its way 
half way around the Zoological Park. 

A zoological garden is among the most recent additions to the sights of the capital. 
It is open all day, including Sunday, and no admittance fee is charged. 

Previous to its organization and the purchase of this site of about 167 acres, in 
1890, the National Museum had accunuilated by gift many live animals, but had no 
means of caring for them ; these at once became the nucleus of the 
new collection, which was placed under the general charge of the ZooJOg^ical 
Smithsonian Institution, with Frank Baker, M.D., as superintendent. Park, 

Two definite objects have been in view here. The original idea was 
not a park for public exhibition purposes — a popular " Zoo " — but a reservation in 
which there might be bred and maintained representatives of many American ani- 
mals threatened with extinction. Congress, however, enlarged and modified this 
notion by adding the exhibition features, making the place a pleasure-ground as well 
as an experiment station, and consequently imposing upon the District of Columbia 
one-half the cost of its purchase and maintenance. Nevertheless, the managers do 
all they can to carry out the original, more scientific intention. 

A walk of five minutes from the cars at the gate brings the visitor to the principal 
Animal House, which is a commodious stone building, well lighted and well venti- 
lated, and having on its southern side an annex of very fine outdoor cages, where 
the great carnivora and other beasts dwell in warm weather. The collection is not 
very large, as the funds do not at present allow of the purchase of animals, which 
must be obtained by gift or exchange. Captures in the Yellowstone National Park 
are permitted for the benefit of this garden, and have supplied many specimens. 

The hardier animals (except a few antelopes and kangaroos, which have a stable) 
are quartered out of doors all the year round in wire enclosures scattered about the 
grounds. These are all healthy and happy to a gratifying degree, and 
as a result they produce young freely. The herds of bison, elk, and Animals. 

deer were recruited mainly from the Yellowstone Park. The former 
occupy adjacent paddocks upon the rising ground north of the animal house, and the 
latter enjoy extensive pastures and a picturesque thatched stable somewhat to the 
east, on a hillside sloping down to Rock Creek. In another quarter are to be seen 
the cages of the wolves, foxes, and dogs. The beavers, however, probably constitute 
the most singular and interesting of all the features of the garden at i)resent. They 
consist of a colony in the wooded ravine of a little branch of Rock Creek, where they 
cut down trees, burrow in the banks of the stream, and construct dams and houses, 
precisely as in a state of nature. Tlie Bear Dens are the best of their kind in the 
country, being rude caves blasted out of the clitT left by an abandoned quarry, which 
form natural retreats for their big tenants. 

An alternative way out of the garden is to climb the rustic stairway near the Bear 
Dens, and walk a few rods to the street-car station at the Rock Creek bridge. 

Chevy Chase is a charming suburb, just beyond the District line, at the extremity 
of Connecticut Avenue Extended, which is cut straight across the broken and 



EXCUKSIONS ABOUT WASHINGTON. 189 

picturesque region west of Rock Creek. The forested gorge of tliis romantic stream, 
east of tlie avenue, and embracing most of the region between it and 
Chevy Chase, the proposed extension of Sixteenth Street, or " Executive Avenue," 
has been acquired and reserved by the Government as a pubhc park ; 
but as yet no impiovements have been attempted, and it remains a wild rambling- 
ground full of grand possil)ilities for the landscape artist. 

Chevy Chase consists of a group of handsome country villas, among which an old 
mansion has been converted into a " country-club," with tennis courts, golf links, etc. 
attached, and here the young people of the fashionable set meet for outdoor amuse- 
ments, in which fox-hunting with hounds, after the British fashion, is prominent. A 
large hotel was started here, but the building is now occupied as a school. An addi- 
tional fare is charged for travel beyond the circle at the District line, and there is little 
to attract the traveler farther northward. Instead of turning back, however, it is a 
good plan to walk southwestward eight or ten minutes, passing old Fort Reno, and 
striking the Tenallytown electric road at the Glen Echo Junction, where he can return 
direct to Georgetown, or can go on to Glen Echo, and then up to Cabin John Bridge 
or Great Falls, or out to Rockville, or back to Georgetown by the electric line along 
the bank of the Potomac. 

7. Georgetown and Its Vicinity. 

Georgetown, now West Washington, was a flourishing village and seaport (the river 
channel having been deeper previous to the construction of bridges) before there wai a 

thought of placing the capital here ; and in its hospitable houses the 
History. early otHcials found pleasanter homes than the embryo Federal city 

then afforded. Its narrow, well-shaded, hilly streets are yet quaint 
with reminders of those days, and it has residents w^ho still consider their circle of 
families the only persons "true blue." Georgetown is still a port of entry, but its 
business does little more than pay the expenses of the office. 

Before the era of raih'oads Georgetown had distinct importance, due to the fact 
that it was the tidewater terminus of the Chesapeake & Ohio Canal, which was 
finished up the- river as far as the Great Falls in 1784, and in 1828 was carried 
through to Cumberland, Maryland, at a cost of $13,000,000. It never realized the 
vast expectations of its promoters, but was of great service to Georgetown, and is still 
used for the transport of coal, grain, and other slow freights. 

Pennsylvania Avenue forms the highway toward Georgetown, but stops at Rock 
Creek. The cars turn off to K Street, cross the deep ravine over a bridge borne upon 

the arched water-mains, and then run east to the end of the street at 
Union the Aqueduct Bridge. Here a three-story union railway station has 

Station. been built ; into its lowest level come the cars of the I'ennsylvania 

Avenue line, and the top story forms the terminus of the electric rail- 
way to the Great Falls. Stairways and elevators connect the three floors, and reach 
to Prospect Avenue above. 

Georgetown does not contain much to attract the hasty sight-seer, though 
much for the meditative historian. A large sign, painted upon a brick house near 

the Aqueduct Bridge, informs him that that is the Key Mansion — 
Key House, the home for several yeai-s of Francis Scott Key, the author of "The 

Star-Spangled Banner," who resided here after the War of 1812, 
became district-aittorney, and died in 1843. Similar personal memoranda belong 
to several other old houses here. On Analostan, for example — the low, forested 
island below the farther end of Aqueduct Bridge — lived the aristocratic Masons 
during the early years of the Republic, cultivating a model farm and enter- 



190 



PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 




GEORGETOWN UNIVERSITY, WASHINGTON, D. C. 

taining royally. One of the latest of them was John M. Mason, author of the 
Fugitive Slave Law, and an associate of Mr. Slidell in the Confederate mission to 
England, which was interrupted by Wilkes in the Trent affair. The most prominent 
institution in this locality, however, is Georgetown College. This is 
the School of Arts and Sciences of Georgetown University, which is Georgetown 
under the direction of the Fathers of the Society of Jesus. This school. College. 

consisting of three departments — postgraduate, collegiate, and prepara- 
tory — is the oldest Catholic institution of higher learning in the United States, hav- 
ing been founded in 1789. The college was chartered as a university by act of 
Congress in 1815, and in 1833 was empowered by the Holy See to grant degrees in 
philosophy and theology. The present main building, begun in 1878, is an excellent 
specimen of Rhenish -Romanesque architecture, and its grounds cover seventy-eight 
acres, including the beautiful woodland " walks " and a magnificent campus. The 
Riggs Library, of over 70,000 volumes, contains rare and curious works. The Cole- 
man Museum has many fine exhibits, among them interesting Colonial relics and 
valuable collections of coins and medals. Not far from the college, on a prominent 
hill, is the Astronomical Observatory, where many original investigations are made 
as well as class instruction given. Thirty-nine members of the faculty and 300 
students comprise the present census of this school. 

The School of Law, situated in the vicinity of the District courts, is one of the best 
in America, numbering on its staff several leading jurists ; the faculty now numbers 
fifteen, the students over 300. The School of Medicine is fully equipped for thorough 
medical training under distinguished sj^ecialists ; the faculty numbers forty-nine, the 
students, 125. The total number of students in the university is about 750. 

Oak Hill Cemetery, on the southern bink of Rock Creek near P Street, is a beautiful 
burying ground I'ising in terraces and containing the graves of many dis- 
tinguished men and women. It is reached by the line of the Metropolitan Oak Hill. 
street cars, more commonly called the F Street line ; leaving the cars 
at Thirtieth Street, a walk of two squares north will bring the visitor to the entrance. 
"Near the gateway is the chapel built in the style of architecture of Henry VHL 



EXCTTRSTONS ABOUT WASHINGTON. 191 

This is matted by ivy brought from ' Melrose Abbey.' In front of the chapel is the 
monument of John Howard Payne, the author of ' Home, Sweet Home, ' who had 
been buried in 1852 in the cemetery near Tunis, Africa, and there remained until, at 
the expense of Mr. Corcoran, his bones were brought to this spot, and in '83 were re- 
interred with appropriate ceremonies. The statue of William Pinkney is near here 
also (he was the Protestant Episcopal Bishop of Maryland, and nephew of William 
Pinkney, the great Mai-yland lawyer). It represents that prelate in full canonical 
robes, and was dedicated to his memory by Mr. Corcoran, who was the friend of his 
youth, the comfort of his declining years. The mausoleum of Mr. Corcoran for his 
family is a beautiful specimen of mortuary architecture ; this is in the northwestern 
section of the cemetery, while in the southeastern is the mausoleum of the Van Ness 
family, whose leader married the heiress, Marcia, daughter of David Burns, one of the 
original proprietors of the site of Washington City. This tomb is a model of the 
Temple of the Vesta at Rome. The cemetery comprises twenty-five acres, incorpo- 
rated in 1849, one-half of which, and an endowment of $90,000, were the donation of 
Mr. William W. Corcoran. Here were buried Chief Justice Chase, Secretary of War 
Stanton, the great Professor Joseph Henry, and many others illustrious in American 
annals." Extremely pleasant rambles may be taken to the north and east of this ceme- 
tery, and it is not far across the hills to the Naval Observatory. This is the astronom- 
ical station of the Government under control of the navy and presided over by an 
officer of high rank, whose first, object is the gathering and collection of information 
of use to mariners, such as precision of knowledge of latitude and longitude, varia- 
tion of the compass, accuracy of chronometers and other instruments 
U. S. used in the navigation of ships of war, and similar information more 

Observatory, or less allied to astronomy. Purely scientific astronomical work is 
also'carried on, and the equijiment of telescopes and other instruments 
is complete, enabling the staff of learned men — naval and civilian — attached to the 
institution to accomplish notable results in the advancement of that department of 
knowledge. The special inquirer will be welcomed by the officers at all suitable 
hours, and on Thursday nights cards of invitation admit visitors generally to look 
through the great telescope. 

This observatory dates from 1892, when it was moved from the wooded elevation, 
called Braddock's Hill, at the Potomac end of New York Avenue, which it had occu- 
pied for nearly a century. That ground was a reservation originally set apart at the 
instance of Washington, who wished to see jilanted there the foundations of the 
National University — the dream of his last years. It is called University Square to 
this day. 

8. Georgetown to Teiinallytown and Glen Echo. 

From Georgetown an electric road runs north out High Street and the Tennallytown 
Road to the District line, where it branches into two lines. Leaving the city quickly 
it makes its way through a pretty suburban district, out into a region of irregular 
hills and dales, where, about one mile from the starting point, the new United States 
Naval Observatory is seen about a quarter of a mile to the right. Just beyond its 
entrance is an industrial school. The general district at the left is Wesley Heights, 
ninety acres of which, and the name, are the property of a Methodist association, 
which proposes to establish there a highly equipped university, to be called the 

American, modeled upon the plan of German universities, and open 
Woodley to both sexes. The site of the buildings will be west of Massachusetts 

Hcig^htS. Avenue, where it intersects Forty-fourth Street, forming University 

Circle. Work is beginning on the buildings, and the endowment is 
growing. The district west of the road is Woodley Heights, Woodley adjoining it 



192 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 

further east along the valley of Rock Creek. Tunlaw Heights is another local 
"subdivision" here; and somewhat farther on is Oak View, where there is a lofty 
observatory, open to anyone who cares to climb it and obtain the wider outlook, 
embracing a large part of the city. A few years ago there w^as a great " boom " in 
suburban villa sites near here, and many noted persons built the fine houses which 
are scattered over the ridges in all directions. Among them was Presi- 
dent Cleveland, whose house, " Red Top " (from the color of the roof), *' Red Top." 
is passed by the cars just beyond Oak View. It was afterward sold by 
the President to great advantage, and during his second term he occupied another 
summer home not far to the eastward of this site. 'The cross-road here runs straight 
to the Zoological Park, a trifle over a mile eastward. Woodley Inn is a summer hotel 
on the left of the road, which keeps northward along a ridge with wide Tetinallv- 
views,fora mile and a quarter farther to Tennallytown, lately become a triwn 

suburb of considerable popiilation, largely increased by families from 
the city in summer. A road to the left (west) from here gives a very picturesque walk 
of a mile and a half over to the Receiving Reservoir, and a mile farther will take you 
to Little Falls, or the Chain Bridge. Up at the right, at the highest point of land in 
the district (400 feet), the new reservoir is seen, occupying the site of Fort Reno, 
one of the most important of the circle of forts about the capital during the Civil War. 
A wooded knoll, some distance to the left, shows the crumbling earthworks of a lesser 
redoubt near the river road, which branches off northwest from the village. Three- 
quarters of a mile beyond Tenallytown the limit of the District of Columbia is 
reached, and the Junction of the line to Glen Echo. The main line runs north to 
Rockville, Maryland. 

The Glen Echo line runs a car every half-hour (fare 5 cents) along a winding 
road through the woods to the Conduit Road and bank of the Potomac, at the Glen 
Echo grounds. 

9. Georgetown to Glen Echo, Cabin John, and Great Falls. 

The Georgetown and Great Falls Railroad Company operates an electric line to 
the Great Falls of the Potomac, which affords one of the most delightful excursions 
out of Washington. Its large cars leave the Union Station, in Georgetown, and take 
a high course overlooking the river valley, which becomes much narrower and 
more gorge-like above the city, with the Virginia banks very steep, rocky, and broken 
by quarries. The rails are laid through the woods, and gradually descend to the 
bank of the canal which skirts the foot of the bluff. About three 
miles above Georgetown is the Chain Bridge, so called because the Chain 

earliest bridge here, where the river for some two miles is confined Bridge. 

within a narrow, swift, and deep channel on the Virginia side, was 
made of suspended chains. The lofty bank is broken here by the ravine of Pimmit 
Run, making a convenient place for several roads to meet and cross the river. The 
bluffs above it were crowned with strong forts, for this was one of the principal 
approaches to Washington. A mile and a half above the Chain Bridge, having run 
through the picturesque woods behind High, or Sycamore, Island, owned by a 
sportsmen's club, you emerge to find the river a third of a mile wdde again, and 
dashing over black rocks and ledges in the series of rapids called the 
Little Falls of the Potomac. The wild beauty of the locality makes it Little Falls. 
a favorite one for picnicking parties, and bass fishing is always excel- 
lent. The Maryland bank becomes higher and more rugged above Little Falls, and 
takes the name of Glen Echo Heights. (Also reached by cars from Georgetown via 
Glen Echo Junction.) 



EXCUESIONS ABOUT WASHINGTON. 



193 




THE CABIN JOHN BRIDGE. — Length of Span, 220 Feet; Height, 57 Feet. 

Glen Echo is a place where it was proposed to combine educational privileges 
with recreation, and form a suburban residence colony and day resort of high 
character. Extensive buildings of stone and wood, including a very 
Glen Echo. spacious amphitheater, were erected in the grove upon the steep bank 
and commanded a most attractive river view ; in them courses of valu- 
able lectures, Sunday services, and concerts of a high order were given, and many 
means of rational enjoyment were provided, but the project failed. 

The river has pretty banks to Cabin John Run, where the fine arch of the cele- 
brated bridge gleams through the trees. The remainder of the run 
Cabin John (five miles) is through a wild, wooded region at the edge of the canal 
Bridge. and river, which is again narrow, deep, and broken by islands flooded 

at high water, with high, ravine-cut banks. This is a favorite place 
with Washingtonians for fishing with rod and fly, from the banks ; Daniel Webster 
often came here for this purpose. 

The Great Falls of the Potomac are a series of bold cascades forming a drop of 
eighty feet within a few hundred yards of distance, very pretty but hardly deserving 
the panegyrics bestowed by some early writers. The place will always 
Great Falls, be exceedingly attractive, however, especially to artists and anglers. The 
appearance of the falls has been considerably modified, and probably 
enhanced, by the structures of the City Water-works, for this is the source of Wash- 
ington's public water supply. The water is conveyed to the city through a brick con- 
duit, which runs along the top of the Maryland bank, and is overlaid by the macadam- 
ized driveway called the Conduit Road. This work of engineering meets its first 
serious difiiculty at Cabin John Run, where a stone arch leaps across the ravine in a 
single span — unequaled elsewhere — of 220 feet. 



13 



194 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO AYASHINGTON. 

10. To Bladensburg and Kendall Green. 

Bladensburg is a quiet Maryland village, some seven miles northeast, on the Balti- 
more & Oliio Railroad. It is a port on the Anacostia, to which large boats formerly 
ascended with goods and went back laden with farm produce. Tiirough 
it ran the stage road from the north ; and here, August 24, 1814, the Bladcns- 
feeble American army met the British, under Ross and Cockburn, who burg. 

had marched over from their landing-place on the Patuxent River, 
intent upon the capture of the Yankee capital. The Americans, partly by blundering 
and partly by panic (except some sailors under Commodore Barney), ran away after 
the first attack, and left the way open for the redcoats to take and burn the town as 
they pleased; but they inflicted a remarkably heavy loss upon the invaders. 

" It is a favorite drive with Washingtonians to-day," remarks Mr. Todd, in his 
Story of Washington, " over the smooth Bladensburg pike to tlie quaint old village. 
Dipping into the ravine where Barney made his stand, you have on the 
right the famous dueling ground, enriched with some of the noblest Battle Field. 
blood of the Union. A mile farther on, you come out upon the banks 
of the Eastern Branch, here an inconsiderable mill stream, easily forded, though 
spanned by a bridge some thirty yards in length. On the opposite shore gleam 
through the trees the houses of Bladensburg, very little changed since the battle-day. 
Some seventy yards before reaching the bridge, the Washington pike is joined by the 
old Georgetown post-road, which comes down irom the north to meet it at an angle 
of forty-five degrees. The gradually rising triangular field between these two roads, 
its heights now crowned by a clubhouse of modern design, was the battle ground." 

A string of pleasant suburban villages nearly join one another along the railway 
and turnpike — Highland, Wiley Heights, Rives, Woodbridge, Langdon, Avalon 
Heights, and Winthrop Heights or Montello. The last is well inside 
the district and brings us back to Mount Olivet Cemetery burial ground, IMount 

lying between the turnpike and the railway near the city boundary, Olivct. 

which has the sad distinction of containing tlie bodies of Mrs. Surratt, 
one of the conspirators in the assassination of Lincoln, and of Wirz, the cruel keeper 
of Andersonviile prison. Electric roads now reach all these suburbs. 

The National Fair Grounds, opposite Mount Olivet and west of the railroad, con- 
tain the Ivy City race track. The suburban "addition," Montello, is north of the fair- 
grounds, and south of them is Ivy City, with Trinidad east of the railroad. The 
southern part of Ivy City is occupied by the extensive grounds of the Columbia 
Institution for the Deaf and Dumb, popularly known as Kendall Green. 

This institution, which is reached by cars on H Street to Seventh Street, 
N. E., was incorporated in 1857, and is for the free education of deaf-mute children 
of sailors and soldiers of the United States, as also of the children of the District 
so afflicted. It was indebted in its early years to the benefactions of 
the Hon. Amos Kendall, who gave land, money, and buildings toward Kendall 

its establishment. All students have opportunity to learn to speak, the Green. 

system of instruction including both manual and oral methods. Poor 
students are received on very liberal terms. Visitors are admitted on Thursdays 
between the hours of 9 and 3. 

11. To Benning and Chesapeake Beach. 

Benning and Deanewood are suburban villages east of the Anacostia River, and 
reached by the Columbia line of electric cars, out G Street and 
Benning Road, N. E. At Benning is the principal race track of the Benning 

District, where spring and fall races are run that attract everybody Races. 

interested in such things. Benning is also a connecting point of 
the Chesapeake Beach Railway, a line of steam railroad some thirty miles in length, 
which connects the capital with a shore resort upon Chesapeake rhp<5af»pjikp 
Bay called Chesapeake Beach. These trains run into the city station Reach 

of the Baltimore & Ohio Railroad by way of Ilyattsville. At the oCdcn. 

beach are hotels, amusement places, bathing facilities, and much that is naturally as 
well as artificially attractive. 



DICTIONARY 

FOR 

VISITORS TO THE NATIONAL CAPITAL. 



NAME 



LOCATION 



HOURS 



INTERESTING FEATURES 



Agriculture— Mall, bet. 12th & 14th 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. 
Department of Streets. 



Museum; palm house; expen 
mental greenhouses and orna- 
mental gardens. 
Reached by Belt Line cars; or by walking from Pennsylvania Avenue and 13th Street. 

Marshall House; Christ Church; 
Alexandria Six miles south of Alexandria Lodge Room: Brad- 

the Treasury. dock Headquarters and Camp- 

ing Grounds, and other historic 
scenes and monuments. 
Reached by hourly trains on the Washington, Alexandria and Mt. Vernon (Electric) 
Railway; by the steamer "Charles Macalester," or a ferry-boat, from the Seventh street 
wharf; or by steam trains of the Southern Railway. 



American Re- 
publics — 

Bureau of 



3 Jackson place. 



A q u e d u c t Crosses the Potomac 
Bridge at Georgetown. 



Arlington — 
National Cem- 
etery 



Heights, west of 
Potomac. 



9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Offices. 



Sunrise to sunset, Lee Mansion ; graves of over 

including Sun- 16,000 soldiers and sailors ; elab- 

days and holi- orate monuments ; trophies of 

days. Cuban war. 



Reached by way of Georgetown, Aqueduct Bridge and electric cars to Fort Meyer and 
the Northern Gate ; or by electric cars from Pennsylvania avenue and 13}^ street, via 
Long Bridge. Public carriages make frequent trips through the cemetery, fare 25 cents. 



Army Medical S. E. corner Smith- 
Museum Bonian Grounds,7th 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. 
and B streets, S.W. 

Reached by Seventh street cars, 



Pathological and surgical mu- 
seum and library. 



Arsenal — 
W a sh i n gton 
Barracks 



Foot of il4 street, 
S. W. 



All day. 



Artillery drills ; river view. 



Botanical Gar- Pennsylvania ave., 
den Ist to 3d streets. 



8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Greenhouses; Bartholdi fountain. 

Reached by all Pennsylvania avenue cars. 

Picturesque out-door resort. 



Cabin John 53^ miles up the 
Bridge Potomac, 

Reached by Metropolitan electric cars from Prospect avenue and 36th street, Georgetown. 



9 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. Rotunda ; Senate; House of Rep- 
Capitol Capitol Hill. or until Con- resentatives ; Supreme Court; 

gress adjourns. paintings, statuary and bronzes. 
Reached on the south and west sides by the Pennsylvania avenue cars, and on the north 
and east sides by the Metropolitan F street lines. A flag flies over each house while it is 
in session, and sessions at night are indicated by lights upon the dome. 



Catholic Univer- 
sity 



Eckington All day. Buildings and library. 

Reached by Eckington line of electric cars. 
195 



196 



PICTORIAL CiUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 



NAME LOCATION HOURS 

Census Building B street, 1st to 2d. No admlesion , 



INTERESTING FEATURES 
Offices. 



Centre Market 
Christ Church 

City Hall 



Pennsylvania avenue 
and 7th street 



All day. 



Flower stalls; country wagons, 
etc. 



G street, between 6th 
and 7th, S. E. 



Sundays. 

Reached by Pennsylvania avenue cars to Navy Yard. 
Judiciary square. 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. District offices, 



Oldest church in the city ; Con- 
gressional cemetery. 



Civil Service Eighth and E streets. 
Comiuissiou 



9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Offices 



Coast and Geo- New Jersey avenue 
detic Survey and B street, S. W. 



9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Offices. 



Columbian Uni- 
versity 



H and 15 streets. 



Congressional G street between 6th All day. 

Burying Ground and 7th, S. E. 

Adjacent to Christ Church ; reached by Navy Yard cars 



Monuments and cenotaphs. 



Congressional liibrary (See Library of Congress.) 



Corcoran Gal- New York avenue See below. Painting ; statuary ; bronzes and 

lery of Art and 17th street. a great variety of objects of art. 

The Gallery is open every day (the Fourth of July and Christmas day excepted) from 
g.30 a.m. to 4 p.m. from October ist to May 1st and from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. May ist to 
October ist. On other public holidays from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., and on Sundays except in 
midsummer, from 1.30 to 5 p.m., when the admission is free. Mondays (open 12 to 4 p.m.), 
Wednesdays and Fridays, admittance 25 cents; other days free. Catalogues for sale. 
Reached by Pennsylvania avenue cars to 17th street. 



Court of Claims Pennsylvania a v e ■ 
nue and 17th street. 



9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Offices. 



Dead liOtter Second Floor, Gen- 
OfHce eral Post Office. 



Museum of postal curiosities and 
philately. 



Education — 
Commissioner 



8th and G. streets. 



9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Pedagogical library. 



Engraving and Mall, 14th and B 9 to 11.45 a.m. and Machinery and processes used in 
Printing— streets, S. W. 12.30 to 2.30 p.m. printing banknotes, bonds and 

Bureau of postage stamps. 

Reached by Belt Line cars. Visitors allowed only in parties conducted by an attendant. 



Ethnology- 
Bureau of 



1333 F street. 



9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Offices and library. 



Executive Mansion (See White House) 

Fish Commis- Armory Building, 6th 
sion and B streets, S. W. 



I 



Ford's Theatre 



10th street between 
E and F. 



9 a.m. to 6 p.m. 

Not open. 

All day. 



Aquaria and flsh-cultural appa- 
ratus. 



Building in which Lincoln was 
assassinated. 



Cavalry drills. 



Fort Meyer Arlington hills, west 

of the Potomac. 
Reached by electric cars and stages from west end of Aqueduct bridge. 



Geological Sur- 
vey 

Georgetown Col- 
lege 



1330 F. Street. 
Georgetown. 



9 a.m. to 3 p.m. 
AUiday. 



Offices and library. 
Library and laboratories. 



DICTIONARY FOK VISITORS TO THE NATIONAL CAPITAL. 197 



NAME LOCATION HOURS INTERESTING FEATURES 

Halls of the An- 1312 to 1318 New York 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. Reproductions of Ancient civili- 
cients avenue. zations. 

An admission fee of 50 cents is charged ; 25 cents to parties of ten or more. 

Howard Univer- University hill be- 
sity tween i}4 and 6tli All day. Educational methods, 

streets. 
Reached by Seventh street cars transferring to BrightwoDd line. 

Indian Aflfairs— 7th, E and F street. 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Offices. 
Bureau of 

Interior— "Patent Office," 7th 9 a.m. lo 3 p.m. Patent ofllce, museum and lib- 

Department of and F street. rary. 

Justice— K street, opposite 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Offices. 

Department of McPherson square. 

Labor— New Yorls avenue 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Ofllces. 

Department of and 15th street. 

Architecture and ornamentation; 

Library of Con- mural paintings; sculptures; 

gress East of the Capitol. 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. mosaics; curiosities of early 

printing and illustration ; read- 
ing-rooms. 
Reached by Pennsylvania avenue and F street lines of cars. The building is brilliantly illu- 
minated in the evening, which is a favorable time in which to see the interior decorations. 

Ijibrary, Free 1326 New York ave- 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Books for general circulation. 
Public nue. 

Lincoln Museum 516 10th street. All day. Relics related to Lincoln. 

Marine Bar- 8th street, between G All day. Drilling of Marine Corps. 

racks and I, S. E. 

Mount Vernon Sixteen miles down 11 a.m. to i p.m. Home and Tomb of Washington. 
the Potomac. 
Reached by hourly trains of the Washington, Alexandria and Mt. Vernon Electric Rail- 
way from 13^^ street and Pennsylvania avenue and morning and afternoon by steamer 
" Charles Macalester from Seventh street wharf ; by either line round trip, 50 cents ; 
admission to grounds, 25 cents. 

National Mu- Mall, opposite 10th 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Zoological, ethnological and in- 
seum street. dustrial collections. 

Navy - State, War and Navy 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Models of war ships ; trophies. 

Department of Building. 

Navy Yard Foot of 8th street, All day. Manufacture of naval cannon; 

S. E. trophies; museum of relics. 

Oak Hill Ceme- Rock Creek, near P. All day. Monuments of notable men. 

tery street 

Reached by Metropolitan (F street) cars to Georgetown. 

7 to 9 Thursday Astronomical apparatus and ob- 
Observatory, North of Georgetown evenings only. servations through the tele- 
Naval Cards of admis- scope. 

sion required. 
Reached by F street and Rockville electric lines from Georgetown. 

Patent OflRce 7th and F streets, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Museum of models. 

Pension Office Judiciary square. 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Central hall and columns. 

Reached by F street and G street lines of cars. 

Post Office, Gen- Pennsylvania ave- Offices open 9 a.m. 
eral and City nue, 11th and 12th to 2 p.m. See " Dead Letter Office." 

streets. 
Money-order division open from 9 a.m. to s p.m. Registry division open from 8.30 a.m. 
to 6 p m. for delivery of registered matter. For the receipt of matter for registration the 
division is always open. General-delivery window never closed. Stamps can be pur- 
chased at any time day or night. Money-order and registered-letter business transacted 
at all of the branch post-offices in the city. Reached by Pennsylvania avenue, Ninth 
Street and Eleventh street lines of cars. 



198 PICTORIAL GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 



NAME LOCATION HOURS INTERESTING FEATURES 

Printing Office, North Capitol and H Visitors in partiesconducted Machinery and meth 
Government streets. through the building at ods of printing and 

10 a.m. and 2 p.m. book making. 

Reached by H street cars from Fifteenth and G street. 

Rock Creek Rock Creek Road, 
Church northeast of Sol- All day. Fine monuments in cemetery, 

dier's Home. 

Reached by Seventh street and Brightwood lines of cars. 

Smithsonian In- Mall, opposite 10th 9 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. Museum of birds, marine ani- 

stitution street. mals, and American archeelogy. 

Reached by Seventh street line of cars. 

St. John's Epis- H and 16th street. Sundays. 

copal Churcli 

Soldier's Home Near 7th street ex- All day including Fine grounds, with wide view; 
tended. holidays. monuments and relics. 

Reached by Seventh street and Brightwood cars. 

State — State, War and Navy 9 a m. to 2 p.m. Library and historical relics. 

IJepartment of Building. 

Treasury, Tlie Pennsylvania ave- 9 a.m. to 2p.m. Making, distribution, and care of 
U. S, nue and 15th street. government treasure. 

Visitors are shown through the building from lo to 12 a.m., in parties of twelve by attend- 
ants who explain everything shown ; all visitors assemble at the door of the Treasurer's 
office, in the northeast corner of the main floor and register their names. 

War— State, War and Navy 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Captured cannon and other 

Department of Building. trophies. 

Washington Mall, west of 14th 9.30 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. View from summit. 
Monument street. 

Reached by Belt Line cars from the Capitol, or by transfer (2 cents extra), from Penn- 
sylvania avenue cars. The elevator runs (free) to the top of the monument every half 
hour from 9.30 a.m. to 4.30 p.m.; but no one will be taken up in the last trip (4.30), if 30 
persons (the capacity of the elevator), are already there. 

WeatherBureau 24th and M streets, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Offices. 

East Room open 
JVliite House Executive Grounds. daily, 10 a.m. to Home of the Presidents. 

2 p.m. 
No general public receptions are held by the President, except on New Year's day, but 
visitors having business with the President will be admitted from 12 to i o'clock daily, 
excepting on Cabinet days, so far as public business will permit. 

Young Men's 
Christian As- 1733 G street. 
sociation 

ZooloRif nl Park, Adam's Mill Road, All day. Living animals. 

National N. W. 

Reached by Seventh or Fourteenth street cars and transfer to U street line, thence tO 
Chevy Chase cars, or by Chevy Chase cars direct from the Treasury. 

HANDY GUIDE TO THE 

Hudson River and 
Catskill Mountains 

249 pages, 18 illustrations, with large scale 
sectional maps. Price, 25 cents. 

RAND, MtNALLY & C(X, . 
Nkw York and Ciiicac.o. 



^ 







The Standard American Brand 

[Established 1860) 

'T^HEY cost a trifle more than the common makes, 

J- but you get a Pen that will last longer and write 

better. A complete sample card — 42 Pens f Of 25 CentS 

or a card with selected numbers — 12 Pens for 10 CentS 

will be sent postpaid on receipt of price. 

SPENCERIAN PEN CO. 

349 Broadway, NEW YORK CITY. 



Butcher's Boston 

"Wj ^ • ^^ is the best finish made for FLOORS, 
X ^i^XXC^XX Interior Woodwork, and Furniture 

Nut brittle ; will neither scratch nor deface like shellac or varnish. 
Is not soft ami sticky like beeswax. Perfectly transparent, pre- 
serviutj the natural color and beauty of the wood. Without dovibt 
the most economical and satisfactory Polish known for Hard- 
Wooi) Fi.D'iKs. 
For sale by dealers in Paints, Hardware, and House Furnishings, 
Send lor our FREE BOOKLET tellingf of the many 
advantages of BITCH ER'S BOSTON POLISH 

The Butcher Polish Co., 356 Atlantic Ave., Boston, Mass. 

OUR No. 3 REVIVER Is a Superior Finish for 
Kitchen and Piazza Floors. 




Dr e ss 

for 
Comfort 



No fear of ripping 
so travelers wear 

PRESIDENT 
SUSPENDERS 

50c & $1.00 any store anywhere 

or by nijiil postpaid 

The C. A. Edgarton Mfg. Co. 

Box 408 Shirley, Mass. 



THe Best 
TONIC 

When you are all tired out, sleep 
does not refresh, or the digestion and 
appetite are poor, there is no remedy 
so effective as 

Hotsford's Acid Phosphate 

If your druggist cannot supply you we will send 
small bottle prepaid on receipt of 25 cents. 

RUMFORD CHEMICAL WORKS, Providence, R. I. 



PARK AVENUE HOTEL 

Park(4th) Ave., 32(1 & 33cl Sts. 
New York 




ABSOLUTELY FIRE 
PROOF 

EUROPEAN PLAN 

S 1 .00 to S4.00 per day and upwards 

Accessible to all Railroads, Ferries 
Theatres and Department Stores 



Two minutes from Grand Central Station and ten minutes from Pennsylvania 

Ferry, Twenty-third Street. Thirty-third Street and Fourth Avenue 

Subway Terminal directly in front of the door. 



REED & BARNETT, 



Proprietors 



INDEX. 



Heavy figures indicate illustrations. 



PAGE 

Adams, Death of 26 
Agriculture, Department of 120 

Agricultural Museum 121 

Alexandria 159 

American Republics, Bureau of 112 

Anacostia 83 

River 162 

Suburbs 83 

Arlington _ 172 

Arlington. 

Arlington House 

Beauty of the Estate 172 

Bivouac of the Dead 173 

Custis Family 174 

Graves of Officers 174 

Lees, The 178 

Mansion, The 174 

Public Carriages 173 

Routes 173 

Sheridan Gate, The 

Sheridan, Tomb of Gen. Philip H... 174 

Site and View 174 

Soldiers and Sailors of the Cuban 

• War 174 

Soldiers' Graves 173 

Temple of Fame 174 

Tomb of the Unknown Dead 174 

Army and Navy Club 137 

Medical Museum 125 

Statues. 125 

Art Galleries..-. 129 



Baltimore & Ohio Station 11 
Bancroft House 149 

Bartholdi Fountain, The 

Battle Cemetery 181 

Baudin 30 

Benning Races 191 

Bicycles 12 

Bierstadt, Albert 28 

Bladensburg . 191 

Battlefield 191 

Blaine House 154 

Boarding-houses 13 

Botanical Ciarden 86 

British Legation, The 155 

Brumidi. Constantino 22 

Bulvver House. The 148 

Bureaus, etc. : 

American Republics 112 

Coa St and G eodetic Survey 80 

Engraving and Printing 

Ethnology 193 

Geological Survey 112 

Indian 112 

Land Office 112 

Patent Office 110 

Pension 110 

Printing Office 119 

Weather 121 

Cabin John Bridge 
Catholic University of America 184 

Capitol. The. 

Apotheosis of Washington, The 

Beginning of the 16 

Brumidi's Canopy 24 

Central Portico 19 

goBt ...., 18 



172 



178 
177 



176 
177 



88 



84 
156 



II 1 
111 



190 



Capitol, The Ccontinued) 

Crawford's Group 18 

Crypt 31 

Discovery of the Mississippi 21 33 

Dome, The. 24 

Early Expectations 79 

East Front 8, 9 

Floor Plan of the Principal Story of 

the. 17 

Franzoni's Clock. 25 

From the Capitol Grounds 15 

Grounds 15 

House of Representatives 28 

Bronze Stairways 29 

Eastern Grand Stairway 30 

Hallofthe 28 89 

House Basement 31 

House Galleries 28, 30 

Mace 28 

Paintings 28 

Portraits 30 

Sub-basement 31 

Western Grand Staircase 29 

Landing of Columbus at San Salva- 
dor, The 31 

Plans and Architects 16 

Representatives, Original Hall of... 25 

"Rescue. The," Greenough'e 19 

Rogers Bronze Door 19 30 

Rotunda.. 20 

Rotunda Doors 21 

Rotunda Frieze 22 

Rotunda Statues 24 

Rotunda Wall Paintings 21 

Senate, Basement 32 

Busts 37 

Chamber. 32 33 

Chasm of the Colorado, The 36 

Crawford Bronze Doors 34 

Eastern Staircase 34 

Electoral Commission, The 37 

First Fightof the Ironclads, The 37 36 

Frescoes in Committee Rooms. . 32 

Galleries 33,36 

Grand Canyon of the Yellow- 
stone, The 36 

Marble Room 35 

Paintings and Portraits 37 

Perry at the Battle of Lake Erie 34 35 

Presidcnfs Room 35 

Recei)tion Room 35 

Vice-Presidents, Busts of 33 

Vice-President's Room 35 

Weather Service 35 

Western Staircase 36 

Signing the Declaration of Independ- 
ence 22 23 

State StatiK-s 27 

StMtu:ny Ilnll 26 

Statiiarv Hal), Acoustic Curiosities. 27 
Statuary Hall, Old Hall of Repre- 
sentatives 26 

Style and Dimensions 18 

Supreme Court, Busts of Judges 38 

Chamber 37 38 

Robing-room 38 

Undercroft 32 

View Looking West from the 84 

Washington, Greenough's Statue of. 16 

Western Front 39 6 



.20i 



202 INDEX. 



Capitol, The (continued). 

West Front at Night, Illuminated 

with Search-lights 79 

Westward the Course of Empire 

Takes Its Way 29 31 

Cemeteries : 

Arlington National 172 

Battle 181 

Congressional . - - - - - - 81 

Mt. Olivet --- 191 

Oak Hill - 187 

Rock Creek - 182 

Roman Catholic - 184 

Soldiers' Home --- 182 

Census Bureau 110 11* 

Center Market - 87 

Chain Bridge ---- 189 

Chapman, John Gadsby 21 

Chesapeake Beach 191 

Chevy Chase - 18B 

Chinese Legation, New -- 151 

Christ Church -81, 160 161 

Church of the Covenant - 135 136 

Churches - - - - - 1 35 

City Hall.- --- 14 

Post Office 108 

Waterworks 190 

Civil Service Commission 112 

Clubs 137,149 

Coast and Geodetic Survey 80 

Columbia Athletic Club.. 137 

Columbian University 148 

Commissioners of Education 112 

Commissions : 

Civil Service 112 

Fish .- 126 

Conduit Road 190 

Congressional Cemetery 81 

Connecticut Avenue 118 

Convention Hall. 136 

Corcoran Art Gallery 129 

Corcoran Gallery of Arts, The 129 

Bronzes and Replicas 131 

Charlotte Corday in I'rison 130 

Description of Building 129 

Last Daj'S of Napoleon I 131 

Marbles 131 

Paintings 130 

Portraits - 131 

Statuary Hall 138 

Tayloe Collection 131 

W. W. Corcoran 129 

Cosmos Club 148 

Country Roads 181 

Court of Claims .- 107 

Crawford, Thomas 18 

Dead Letter Office 107 
Museum of 108 

Decatur House, The 146 

Departments : 

Agriculture 1 20 

Interior 108 

Justice 107 

Labor.... 112 

List of 99 

Navy 102 101 

Post Office 107, 108 109 

State 99 101 

Treasury 102 103 

War 100 101 

Dictionary for Visitors 195 

Diplomatic Corps, The 142 

Room, Department of State. 1 13 

Distributing Kcscrvoir 181 

District and Municipal Afifairs 14 

of Columbia, Origin of 13 

Institutions 81 

Duddington Manor 79 

Dupont Circle... 15G 

Statue of Admiral Samuel F. - - 156 



FAOE 

TParly's Raid 181 

J^ Eckington 184 

Edgewood 184 

Education, Office of the Commissioner of 112 

Emancipation Monument 81 

Engraving and Printing, Bureau of 119 

Etiquette, Official 139 

Everett House, The 149 

Ewell House 146 

Excursions About Washington 159 

Executive Avenue 152 

Departments 99 

Mansion 91 

Proposed 98 

Falls Church 179 
Farragut, Statue of .\dmiral David G. 155 

Farragut Square 155 

Fish Commission, The United States... 126 

Force, Peter 45 

Ford's Theater. 88 

Foreign Office.. 100 

Fort Foote 160 

Lyon 160 

Monroe, Steamboat to. 11 

Meyer 178 

Totten 183 

Sheridan 163 

Stevens 181 

Washington 163 

Fourteenth Street 147 

Franklin Square 147 

Statue of Benjamin.. 88 

Franzoni's Clock, Capitol 25 

Free Public Library 112 

French Embassy 149 

Garfield, Shooting of President. 14 
Statue of Pres. James A 86 87 

Geological Survey 112 

Georgetown 186 

Christ Church 160 161 

Interior 160 

College 187 

History of 186 

Key House 186 

Union Station _ 186 

Gingko Trees 147 

Glen Echo.... 190 

Glen Echo Heights... 189 

Giesboro Point 162 

Government, District 14 

Hospital for Insane 162 

Printing Office 112 

Grant Gift House 157 

Grant's (General) Headquarters 102 

Great Falls of the Potomac 190 

Greene, Statue of Major-General Natha- 

nael 80 

Greenough. Horatio 16 

Gridiron Club 137 

Gross Monument 125 

Hacks and Cabs 12 
Halls of the Ancients 132 134 

Halsall, Wm. P 37 

Hancock, Statue of General 87 

Healy, George P. A 96 

Historic Houses: 

Bancroft House 149 

Bulwer House 148 

Decatur House 146 

Duddington Manor 79 

f^erett House. 149 

Ewell House.. 146 

Madison House 145 

Octagon House 118 

Seward House .'145 

Stockton House 149 

Sumner House 146 

Tayloe House 145 

Van Ness Mansion 118 

Wirt House 150 



INDEX. 



203 



PAGE 

nistory, Early 14 

Hospital Square 81 

Hotels 13 

Early 87 

List of Principal 2 

Houdon, Jean Antoine 26 

Howard I'niversity 180 

H Street 148 

Hunting Creek _ 162 

Inaugural Balls 110 

Indian Office 112 

Interior, Department of the 108 

Iowa Circle 1 57 

I Street 150 

Ivy City Race Track 191 

Jackson, Statue of President Andrew.. 144 145 
Justice, Department of 107 

Kendall Green 191 
K Street 152 

T abor, Department of _ 112 

^-^ Lafayette Memorial Statue. 144 

Lafayette Square 143 

Opera House, Site of.. 144 

Land Office, General 112 

Latrobe, Benj. H ]8 

Leutze, Emanuel 29 

Library, Free Public 112 

Library of Congress 45 40,41 

Administration 74 

Aglaia 67 

Alexander Paintings _ 57 

" America and Africa " 52 53 

Ancient Games 62 

Architecture and Style 46 

" Arts and Sciences," Cox's 68 

Autographs and MSS., Historic 65 

Barse Paintings 70 

Benson Paintmgs 66 

Book Illustration 69 

Bronze Door " Tradition " 51 45 

Care of Books 75 

Ceiling 52 

Comus _ 54 70 

Copyright Office 75 

Corinthian Arcades 60 

Corridors 61 

Decorations _ 46 

Dodge W.deL. Paintings 64 

Dome and Galleries 72 

Dome Frescoes Blashfield's 74 

"Human Understand- 
ing" 74 

Significance 74 

Early Books 64 

"Elements" 69 

"Endymion" 54 71 

Entrance 46 

" Europe and Asia " 52 5.3 

Evolution of the Book. The.... 57 

Family, The... 59 61 

" Fates," Mackay's 70 

First Floor Halls 52 

Floor Plans, First Story. 42 

Second Story 43 

From the Capitol. 40, 41 

Good Administration. 59 58 

Government .58 59 

Graces, The 67 

Grand Staircase 50 

House Reading-room 76 

Inscriptions 65 

Librarian's Office 59 

Lyric Poetry 52 54 

McEwen Paintings 54 

Main Entrance Hall 51, 70 

Main Entrance Hall (Second Floor). 49 

Mantel in House Reading-room .50 55 

Senate.. 57 50 

Map-room 60 

Martiny Sculptures 52 



FAQl 

Library of Congress (continued). 

Maypard Paintings 69 

"Minerva" _ 71 44 

Modern Games 67 

"Muses," Simmons' 60 

North Corridor, Second Story, Main 

Entrance Hall 78 

Northeast Pavilion 65 

Northwest Pavilion 64 

Origin of 45 

Pearce Paintings 59 

Periodical Reading-room 57 

Perry Fountain 50 

Perry's Sibyls 62,67 

Philosophy 72 73 

Plaques. 69 

Pompeiian Dancing Girls, Dodge's, 60 

Pompeiian Panels 61 63 

"Courage". 61 63 

"Fortitude" 61 62 

"Justice" 61 62 

"Patriotism" 61 62 

Portico 50 

Printers' Marks 61 

Racial Heads 50 

Reading-room 75 

Reid Paintings 62 

Representatives' Reading-room 55 

Restaurant 75 

Rotunda Entrance 58 

Of Public Reading room .. 47 

Statues 73 

The 72 

Sciences, The 68 

" Seals," Van Ingen's 65 

" Seasons," Pratt's 64 

Second Story Rooms and Corridors. 60 

Senators' Reading-room 57 

Shirlaw Paintings 66 

Southeast Pavilion 69 

Southvvest Pavilion 69 

Treasures 64 

Trophies 62 

Van Ingen's Paintings 71 

Vedder Mosaic, The 71 

Paintings 58 

Vestibule 51 

Vista, A 77 

Walker Paintings.... 54 70, 71 

War 63 64 

' ' War and Peace, " Melcher's 63 

Lincoln Relics 89 

Lincoln Square.. 81 

Little Falls of the Potomac 189 

Logan, Statue of Gen. John A 157 

Long Bridge 159 

Louise Home 153 

Luther, Martin 147 

McClellan Gate, The.... 179 

McPherson Square 150 

McPherson Statue 150 

Madison House 145 

Mall, The 127 

Maltl)v Building 80 

Marine Corps 82 

Marshall Hall 159 

Marshall, Statue of Chief Justice John. 39 

Massachusetts Avenue 153 

Meridian Hill 156 

Memory 183 

Metropolitan Club 149 

Metropolitan Hotel 87 

Mexican Embassy 150 

Moran, Thomas." 36 

Mount Olivet Cemetery 194 

Mount Vernon 163 

Electric Railway Route to 159 

Estate, The 163 

Gardens 107 

Mansion, The - 166 165 

y^ttjg 172 

BanquetHali," The .".'.".".".".'."."."."."." 170 

Bedrooms 172 



204 



INDEX. 



PAGE 

Mount Vemon -The Manflion (continued). 

Central Hall _. 168 

Death Chamber 171 

Dining-room 169 

Interior 168 

Library 170 

Martha's Room _ 171 

Music-room. 169 

Outbuildings 167 

Room in which General Wash- 
ington died 170 171 

Room in which Martha Wash- 

ingtondied 171 

Sitting-room 169 

Western Front 167 

West Parlor 169 

River Route to 161 

Washington, Old Tomb of 166 164 

Washington, Tomb of 164 166 

National Fair Grounds 191 
National Hotel 87 

National Military Cemetery 182 

National Museum, The 183 

Costumes - 124 

Lectures 124 

Old Building. 125 

Personal Relics 124 

Pottery 125 

Rotunda 124 

Naval Hospital 83 

Monument 86 

Observatory 188 

Naw Department and Museum 83, 102 101 

Yard 81 

Museum. 82 83 

Ordnance Factories 82 

Trophies - 82 

New Hampshire Avenue 157 

Norfolk, Steamboat to 11 

Numbering Currency Notes 130 

Oak HUL Cemetery 187 
Oak Hill - 187 

Octagon House, The 118 

Official Etiquette at the Capital 139 

Cabinet Precedence 141 

Cabinet Receptions 141 

Calling Days - 142 

Card Reception 139 

Dinner Formalities 140 

Diplomatic Corps, Social Rules in.. 142 

Formalities at the White House 139 

Local Society Features. 139 

Official Season 139 

President's Hours. 141 

Public Receptions. 140 

Reception Ceremony 140 

Rules for Dress ... 141 

Vice-President 141 

Old Capitol Prison 80 

Ordnance Factories 82 

Palmer, Erastus Dow 27 
Patent Office. 110 111 

Payne, John Howard. 187 184 

Peale, Charles Wilson 36 

Pennsylvania Avenue 85 

Railroad Station 11 

Pension Office 110 111 

Population 14 

Post Office, General 107, 108 

New 107 109 

Potomac River Excursions 161 

Powell, Wm. H 21 

Powers, Hiram 30 

Pratt, Bela L 72,73 

President's Grounds 93 

Public Carriages 12 

Public Printer 112 

Railroads and Stations 11 
Rawlins, Statue of General 87 

Uedemptio- Office , 105 



FAGE 

" Red Top," 189 

Residences, Prominent 149 

Blaine House 154 

Depew, Chauncey M 149 

Dewey, Admiral 158 

Foraker, Senator J. B 152 

Tyrant, Mrs. U. S 164 

Hale, Senator Eugene 152 

Leiter, L. Z.,Esq 157 

Restaurants 12 

Rhode Island Avenue 157 

Rock Creek Church 182 

Cemetery 182 

" Grief "— by St. Gaudens 183 

Memorial Statues 183 

" Memorv " — by Partridge 183 

" Payne, John Howare, 

Monument 187 184 

Rogers, Randolph 19 

Scheffer,Ary 28 
ScottCircle 153 , , -, 

Scott, Statue of General 154 \ iSS 

Seventh Street 87 '*'*'* 

Seward House, The 145 

Shops - 13 

Sixteenth Street 152 

Smithsonian Institution - 121 122 

Bureaus 123 

Plan and Scope 122 

Social Formalities at Official Horaes 142 

Soldiers' Home 180 

History of 182 

St. John's Episcopal Church 135 

Stanton Square 80 

State, Department of 99 101 

State Library and Relics 100 

Statues : 

Daguerre 126 

Dupont, Adm. Samuel F 156 

Emancipation Monument 81 

Farragut, Adm. David G 155 

Franklin, Benjamin 88 

Garfield, President James A 87 

Greene, Maj. -Gen. Nathaniel 80 

Gross, Dr. S. D 125 

Hancock, Gen. Winfleld S 87 

Henry, Prof. Joseph 121 

In the Capitol 27 

Jackson, President Andrew 144 145 

Lafayette Memorial 144 

Lincoln, A 14,26,81 

Logan, John A 157 

Luther 147 

Marshall, Chief Justice John 39 

McPherson, Major-Gen. Jas. B 150 jgg 

Scott, Gen. Winfield 154 -^loo 

Rawlins, Major-Gen. John A. 87 ' *** 

Thomas, Gen. George H 147 

Washington, George 16, 26 11 

Steamboat Landing 11 

Steamboats .- 11 

Stockton House 149 

Stone, Horatio 24 

Storied Houses 151 

Street Cars 11 

Streets, Arrangement of 13 

Stuart, Gilbert Charles 30 

Suburban Lines 12 

Suburban Towns 184 

Sumner House, The 146 

Tayloe House 145 
Tennallytown 189 

Theaters - 136 

Thomas Circle 147 

Thomas, Statue of Gen. Geo. H 147 

Toner, J. M 45 

Treasury, The 103 103 

Branches of 107 

Cash Room. 105 

('urrency Destruction Committee... 106 

Cutting the Sheets 104 

Department ,,...,-- 102 103 



INDEX. 



2o5 



Treasury, The i continued). 

Expert Counting -- 105 

Maceration 106 

Paper for Securities 104 

Redemption Office 105 

Treasury Notes - 104 

Tunlaw Heights 1™ 



u 



niversities. 

American l°o 

Catholic - - 184 

Columbian 148 

Howard 180 



TTanderlyn, John 21 

V Van Ness Mansion, The lib 

Venus of Melos - ^^^ 



Waggaman Gallery, The 131 
Walker, James ob 

War Department 100 

Washington Barracks - lo-s 

Washington . 

Bird's-eye View, lookmg 
east from Washington 

Monument - 

Bird's-eye View, looking 
north from Washington 

Monument 

Circle -- 157 

Defensesof 179 

Old Tomb of 166 

Statues of George 16,26 

Tomb of 164 

Washington's Mansion at Mount 

Vernon . . _ - 166 

Washington Monument.. 115 

Dimensions 115 

Grandeur 1|5 

History 115 



138 



164 

11 

166 

165 
117 



PAGE 

Washington Monument (continued). 

Interior 116 

Northwestern Outlook 118 

Scene Toward the Capitol 118 

View Down the Potomac 118 

From Arlington 1 

From the Top. 116 

Uu the;Potomac 118 

Water Works, of the City 190 

Weather Bureau 121 

Forecasting 121 

Weir, Robert W 21 

Wesley Heights - 188 

White House, or Executive Mansion . . . 

New 

White House 

Blue Room 94 

Cabinet Room 98 

Doorkeepers 93 

East Room 94 

Egg-rolling... 93 

Green Room 94 

History 91 

In Line on a Reception Day 

Lafayette Square, from 

North Front 

President's Grounds 93 

Office 97 

Red Room 

South Front... 

State Dining-room 97 

Washington, Portrait of 

Whitney, Anne 27 

Winder Buildmg 102 

Wilhmrs Hotel 89 

Wirt House, The 150 

Woodley Heights 188 

Y M. C.A 137 

Zoological Park 185 
Animals 185 



91 

98 
91 
95 



95 



93 
91 
92 



96 
90 



94 



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Night Boats 'eave Philadelphia and 

Baltimore ^^ery day 5 p^ ^ 

\tept SundavR. 'Sew Year's Day, Fourth of July, Thanksgivint;, and 
( liiistniiis), arriving at eacli port early following moinliij;. AVeathcr per- 
il ttiiifj;, laiiiliiiK!- will be made at Betterton (botli ways) daily, and on 
M n lavs, Tliiirsdavs, and Saturdays (both ways) at lieybold's Wharf and 
I \W1 i^oint W harf. Exemwion Tick.>t«(o Biil<iiii..n- or I-Iiiladelphi.i, riiliiii S2...0: 
I l> lili'lpliia <o l!.-li,T(mi, ii'j.oo. Good for liftceu davK. S28 Cliestnut St., 
1 liil idelptila; -^114 I-iKbt 8t., and Allit rt's ticket ottice, 15 X. Cluuies St.. 
I iltuuure; in conipaiiirs' otlu-i's and on steamers. Kates of fare one way 
-( ibin tieket.s, S.'.oo; deek tlekeis, $1.5(1: state ronins e.\tra. Meals 50 
( uts each. E.xeursion tickets to and from all way landings for sale on 
steamers. All way freight must be prejiaid. For special exclusion rales 
foi iiarties, elnbs. "etc., apply at office. .Additional charges fur berths on 
iu_li ti k ts t ) Wa^biiigtiiu, D. C— one way smd excursion good to return by either 

I k ts t N It ilk. \a.. liichmond, Va., anil jioiiif.' south Tickets from Wasiilngton 

II "-I lie It s 5117 rcniisvlvania Ave., N. \V. Send for illustrated pamphlet to Pier 
1 hil idtli hii or No. a)4 I.igtit St., Baltimore, Md. 

Day Boats leave Philadelphia and Baltimore every day, including Sundays, at 7.30 a. m. 

Fineneu- fast steamers " Peim''and" Lord Baltimore" arrive at each port early s.aine evening. Meals 50 cents eacli. 
Excursion tickets to and from all way landings for sale on steamers J'o especial e.\cur>ii>n lates for paities, clubs, 
etc., apply at Pier 3, South Delaware Ave. , Philadelphia, or 204 Light Street, Baltimore. 




k ts Thi 
till u^li t 
t 1 tlu ( s n 
L,Ii« UL V\e 



ESTABLISHED IN 1802 

Gait & Bro., 

jewp:lers 

silversmiths 

statio]\ers 

1107 PENNSYLVANIA AVE., 
WASHINGTON, D. C. 



We are the originators not 
only of Washington Souvenir 
Spoons, but of Souvenir 
Spoons in the United States. 
The Article in Appleton's 
Encyclopedia, iSpijVol. XVI, 
on "Souvenir vSpoons, 
clearly states this fact. 

GALT & BRO. 



VISI T 



SCHMID'S PET EMPORIUM 

712 12th Street, N. W., WASHINGTON, D. C. 

A FULL LINE OF 

BIRDS, RABBITS, GOLDFISH, 

PARROTS, SQUIRRELS, SWANS, 

CATS, PIGEONS, PEAFOWLS, 

DOGS, INCUBATORS, Etc. 

MONKEYS, FANCY POULTRY, 





SEND FOR LARGE FREE 1 04-PAGE ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 



THE FREDONIA 



FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL. 



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1321-1323 H Street, Northwest, WASHINGTON, D. C. 

"the FREDONIA HOTEL, A MODERN HOTEL HOME." 

" The man without a home of his own will find this Hotel of loo 
rooms the next best thing to it. It is centrally located, thoroughly 
equipped with every modern appliance, both for comfort and safety, 
newly furnished throughout from top to bottom, convenient to all lines 
of cars, and is in the midst of many of the city's most prominent points 
of interest. It is conducted upon both the American and European 
Plans and has a cuisine not excelled by any hostelry in the city." 

RATES. 
American : One person, $2.00 per day, $12 per week, $40 per month 
and upward. Two persons, $3.50 per day, $20 per week, 
$75 per month and upward. 
European : Rooms, one person, $ I per day and upward. Two persons, 
' $ 1 .50 per day and iipward. 

Special Excursion Rates will be quoted to parties of twenty or more 
upon application to 

WM. W. DANENHOWER, Proprietor, 



Hotel Buckingham 

WE,ST SIDE, Mcpherson square 

Washington, D. C. 

Two blocks from Executive Mansion, State, War, Navy, and 
Treasury buildings. 

HIGH=CLASS TRANSIENT AND FAMILY HOTEL 

American plan. Rates, $2.50 to $4.00 per day. 



MT. VERNON, 



the Home and Tomb of Washing:ton, 

ARLINGTON, the beautiful National Cemetery, 
ALEXANDRIA, Virginia's first Capital, 



Are all quickly and conveniently reached on 



THE ELECTRIC 

. . . Of the . . . 



TRAINS 



Washington, Alexandria & I^lt. Vernon Railway Company 

Station, Pennsylvania /\ve. and 13 1-2 St. 

The fastest and best equipped electric trains in the world, embracing: all improve- 
ments known to modern science looking to speed, safety, and comfort 

From Nov. 1st to May 1st trains for Mt. Vernon leave Round trip tO IMt. Vemon . . . . 75c 

hourly from 10 a. m. to 2 p. m , week-days only. ^ Round trip tO IMt. Vcrnon, including 

From May 1st to Nov. 1st trains for Mt. Vernon leave a Arling^ton 85c 

hourly from 10 a. m. to 3 p. m, week days only. Round trip to /Vrling^ton .... 20c 

For Arlington and Alexandria, see time-tables. *^ Round trip tO Alexandria ... 25c 



DRINK DELICIOUS! REFRESHING! 




ALL SODA FOUNTAINS 



5 CENTS PER GLASS 



Swell's Founlain Pens J^f^ ^r' f ''^>.f'-^'^li°^^!!^ 

best material obtainable, and 
are finely finished. We o-uarantee them in every respect. 

No. 2. Fitted with No, 2 14k gold pen— a $2.50 pen . . fi.oo 
No. 3. " " " 3 14k " " 3.50 " . . 1.50 

Sent by mail on receipt of price. Satisfaction or money refunded. 

FOUNTAIN PENS REPAIRED 

at small cost. Send your old pens for estimate of cost of repairs. 

Q-MTTjN^^qp f^ f^i^ ^^^ ^*** Street, N. W. 
OVVILI 1 CJ V-/VJ., WASHINGTON. D. C. 




HOTEIi 



AND 



CAFE 



CORNER E-LEVENTH AND G STREETS. N. W. 
WASHINGTON, D. C. 




fr^l^^^^P^'fJl^:;^:!^ P^-- '^>-- ^' '" ^"^ '»■■■ "-^^ t^5 to J50 ,n... nu,nti,. Roo.s only. 

A'^ZM^Ti;'^,"'"^! '** \f'Y^ ""^."^ Hotel, and its very central location is iiiucli In its favor. 

„„ A' ^"^ and lesttul stopping place it lias few rivals in any city. Ladies travelina alone 
h2'J,PTr^"';\'^^^y '■'''^^ business cares or literary work, find this cozy Hotel all thff could 
be desired at the very moderate rates charged. The table is excellent. 

E. S. L A FETRA. Proprietor. 



HANDY GUIDE 

TO NEW YORK CITY. 

PRICE, 25c. 




Pliotg Ci.pjriglit \ij Ueu. 1'. Hull i s, 



HERALD SQUARE, New York City. 




BROCK'S 

CONGRESSIONAL 

HOTEL 

New Jersey Ave. and B St. S. E. 
Vi/ashington, D. C. 

Situated near the Capitol and Lilirary. 
Guests accommodated with delightful, 
airy, and well ventilated rooms. Cars 
from all railroad depots pass in front 
of this hotel. 

HENRY BROCK, Proprietor. 



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The ARDMORE 

13th Street, 

Between Pennsylvania Ave. and F St., N. W. 
WASHINGTON, D. C. 

Family Hotel, central location. A pleasant home 
for tourists and sightseers. 

PURE SPRING WATER USED. 

European plan, $i and up ; American plan, $1.50 
to I2.50. No liquors. 

T. M. HALL, Proprietor. 



Handy Guides 


American. $2.50 to $4.00 per Day 
European. $1.00 and UpUlard 


• *■ • 

(TTt) 

New YorK City 

Boston 

Philadelphia 


The 

Bancroft 


Hudson Reiver and 
CatsKill Mountains 

Southeastern States 


COR. 18th and 

H STREETS, N. W , 

WASHINGTON, D. C. 


• . • 


^ 


Price of each Guide = 25 cents 

• • • 


.Sliiclly Pirc-proiif and Entiicly Nl>\v. 

Rooms Single and en Suite 

with Private Batli.s 


Rand, McNally <& Co. 


^ 


Chicago • New YorK 


W. L. SHEPARD, Prop. 



GOING TO BOSTON 

TRY THE 

AMERICAN HOUSE, 

Hanover St., near Scollay Square Station of Subway. 

FROM SOUTH STATION take any Federal Street car, stopping Washington 

Street, corner Elm. 
FROM NORTH STATION take any Subway car leaving at Scollay Square. 

Leave surface cars Washington Street, corner Hanover. 




Siuiatcd in the business portif>n of the city, the house is convenient to tlie his- 
torical places of interest, shoppin;,' district, amusements, steamboat lines, etc. 

European Ptan, $1.00 per day and upwards. Table d'Hote "Dinner, 50 cents. 

Special "Breakfast. 40 cents. 



A. C. JONES, Manager. 



C. A. JONILS, Proprietor. 



Colonial Hotel 


The Hotel Barton 




(FORMERLY WELCKER'S) 


I5TH AND H STREETS. N. W., 


WASHINGTON, D. C. 


WASHINGTON, D. C. 


The Barton Company, Props. 

(incorporated! 


High=Class Transient 


W. H. NELSON. Mgr. 

Telephone ^lain iS. .i 


and Family Hotel 


FIFTEENTH STREET 


AMERICAN AND 
EUROPEAN PLAN 


Near U. S. Treasury 

This hotel has been remodeled, 
refurnished, and redecorated. 
Modern open plumbino-. 

Practically a new house. 


Onh" one block from White House, 


Specialties: 


Treasury, State, War, and Navy 
departments. 

E. C. BENSON, 

Proprietor. 


Table d'Hote Dinners with wine; 
Ladies' and Gents' Luncheons 
and After Theater Supper s ; 
Elegant Turkish, Moorish, and 
Palm Dining Rooms. 




A Strictly .Modern House 



Murphy's 
Hotel 

EUROPEAN PLAN 

JOHN I>ll]RPHY 

Owner & Proprletor 

Richmond, Va, 



THE MAJESTIC 

ATLANTA, GA. 

APARTMENT HOTEL 

Ralph Van Landingham, 

MANAGER. 



Entire construction 
absolutely fireproof 

On fashionable 
Peachtree Street 

Opposite 

Capitol City Club 
and Governor's 
Mansion 

Caters only to 
the "Best 




GREEN'S HOTEL 

Corner Eighth and Chestnut Sts., 
Philadelphia, Pa. 

EUROPEAN PLAN. 



FOR LADIES AND GENTLEMEN. 



315 Rooms at $1.00 and $1.50 per Day and Upwards. 

60 New Rooms with Bath Attached. 



FINEST RESTAURANT IN 
PHILADELPHIA. 



ALL MODERN CONVENIENCES. 
TELEPHONE IN EVERY ROOM. 



Table d'Hote Dinner 50 cents, from 1 2 m. to 8 p. m. 

MUSIC BY PROFESSOR MEYER'S ORCHESTRA. 



Eighth and Chestnut Stieet Trolley Cars pass the Hotel at the 
Rate of Three per Minute to all Parts of the City. 



This hotel is centrally located, and in the very heart of the city, being but 
one square from the Postoffice, Strawbridge & Clothier's, Lit Brothers, and op- 
posite Gimbel Brothers, and Partridge & Richardson, and 
easy of access to all Theaters, Railway Stations, Public 
Buildings, and Points of Interest. 



MAHLON W. NEWTON, 

Tix, 

Celebrated Angora Cat Proprietor. 

of Green's Hotel 




The Walter Sanitarium 

Walters Park, near Reading, Pa. 

IN the mountains of Southeastern 
Pennsylvania, less than two hours 
from Reading Terminal, Philadelphia, 
four hours from New York, without 
change. 

^it, Watn, and ^cenct:^ ^cltiom cBqualcD* 

BUILDINGS OF GRANITE ROCK, 320 FEET FRONT, FIVE STORIES IN HEIGHT. 




'THE Original Massage Institution, erected, owned, and 
managed by its founder, who has given forty-five years 
to the study and practice of sanatory methods, fifteen years 
as a supposed incurable invalid, and thirty years as a 
practitioner who first healed himself. 

■33atl)0, ;ffla£(£iag:c, ^tDcUisI; ;ffto^cmrnt6, (Slcctrtcitp, l)pci;irnic 
Dictarp, ^atrp, Ittcrp. 

TERMS VERY MODERATE. Send for Illustrated Catalogue. 

Address ROBT. WALTER, M. D., 

WALTERS PARK, PA. 




The Ten E.yck 

ALBANY, N. Y. 

Positively Fireproof 

EUROPEAN 
PLAN 

Most attractive hotel 
in New YorK State 

A delightful home for those wishing to spend some time 
in this "interesting and historic city" 

: : : ORCHESTRAL MUSIC DURING E,VENING DINNER : : : 

Convenient to STATE CAPITOL, other Public Buildings and 

Places of Interest. 



H. J. ROCKWELLL <S SON. 



■ ;♦" -W -W •'^- •^- •'♦ ♦■ ■■♦ ♦^ 'W ♦r ■♦:- -^r -^^^ ■■;^- ^ - 

♦ .♦ ♦ ♦ ,♦, ♦ ♦„„♦..♦. ,♦,.♦, ♦, ♦„ ♦., ,♦, ♦ ♦. 

♦ 

♦* Hotel 'Bellectaire 

♦ 

♦ BROADWAY AND 77TH STR.EET 
♦ 

♦ NEW YOKK CITY 

♦ 

^ Luxuriously Furnished Rooms for permanent and transient 

^ guests at moderate prices. 

♦ Orchestra of Solo Players 5 r m. till i a. m. 

^ Restaurant, Palm Room, and Cafe, gems of artistic perfection 

^ Cuisine and service really delightful. Kou will say so. 



A5^* &\. 



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A special feature is our "Jlfter theater Suppers." 
ji 'Billiard Parlor for Ladies is another pleasant feature. 
Original with the Belleclaire is the 

Refined Vaudeville eVery Thursday Evening 

Our gallery of beautiful paintings, valued at $50,000, is open evenings 

to visitors. 
Affability and courtesy guaranteed from eVery "Belleclaire ^"^ 

employe. ^ 

MILTON ROBLEE, Proprietor. ^ 

m. 






.J* 



15 



:€#^'li#^^%i#' ^%^ ^^^%#^ '%M'm^ 



mm 



Coming to Washington ? 

WRITE FOR BOOKLET. 

MM 

POTOMAC HOTEL CO., Proprietors 

17th and H streets, N. W., WASHINGTON, D. C. 



Conveniently accessible 
by short walks, and 
car lines passing- the 
doors, to all public 
buildings and theaters, 
business streets, railway 
stations, steamboat 
docks, suburbs, a n d 
points of interest. 




Wimmi^^im' 







JiSLf 'i''^^*? 



T/iL ^l lb any 

Appointments 

and Cuisine 
First=class 

Correspondence Solicited. 
Booklets. 



The 
Everett 



ALL -WATER ROUTE 

0000000000 0000000000 

WASHINGTON, D. C. 

TO 

NEW YORK 

WITH OPPORTUNITY TO VISIT 

OLD POINT COMFORT 

(FORT MONROE) 

VIA THE SUPERB STEAMERS OF THE 

Norfolk & Washington CD. CJ Steamboat Co. 

AND THE 

Old Dominion Line 

STEAMERS LEAVE FOOT OF SEVENTH ST., 
WASHINGTON, D. C, DAILY 



Passeno^ers from Washinofton will make connec 
tions with Old Dominion ships at Norfolk, daily ex- 
cept Sunday, sailing at 7 p. m., and leaving Old 
Point Comfort (by annex steamer) on sailing days. 

Tickets, staterooms, and full information can be obtained at the General 
Ticket Office of Norfol% & Washington Steamboat Co., Bond Build- 
ing, 14th Street and New York Avenue, and at Company's Offices, 7th 
Street Wharf ; also at the C. & O. Ry. Co.'s Office, 513 Pennsylvania Avenue, 
Washington, D. C. 

00£3000000000t3000 000^0^00 



H. B. WALKER, 

Vice-President and Tiaffic Mgr. 

Old DominiiMi S. S. Co , 

Nebo York. 



JOHN CALLAHAN, 

Gen'l Mgr. Norfolk & Washington S. B. Co., 
Washington, D. C. 



JAMES L.NORRIS 



ESTABLISHED 1869. 




Lone Distance and Local Telephone 

Member of the Patent Law Association. Counselor in 
Patent Causes 

Solicitor of American 
and Foreign Patents 



Norris Office Bldg., erected in 1880 



In active practice over thirty years. 

PATCMTC Cor. F and Fifth Sts.,N.W. 
IM I L 11 I O Washington, D. C. 



Information as to requirements and costs for securing Letters Patent on Inven- 
■tions, Caveats, Trade-Marks, etc., sent free in pamphlet on request, it naming some 
of my clients in every State. 

Letters Patent procured in the United States and Foreign Countries ; Trade- 
Mark, Label, Caveat, and Copyright protection secured. 

Searches made and opinions given as to the vaHdity and infringement of Letters 
Patent. 



SPECIAL REFERENCES 



National Bank of Washington, Washington,D.C. 
L. Beyer's Sons, New York City. 
Metallic Cap Manufacturing Co., New York City. 
The ^olian Company, New York City. 
The Babcock & Willcox Co., New Y'ork City. 
W. C. Prather Coffee Co., New York City. 
Hardsocg Manufacturing Co., Ottumwa, Iowa. 
What Cheer Drill & Miners' Tool Co., What 

Cheer, Iowa. 
Athol Machine Co., Athol, INIass. 
Anchor Hosiery Mills, Cohoes, N. Y. 
Cary Safe Co., Buffalo, N. Y. 
Columbia Carriage Co., Hamilton, Ohio. 
Buckeye Iron & Brass Works, Dayton, Ohio. 
Keating Implement & Mach. Co., Dallas, Te.K. 
The Murray Co., Dallas, Tex. 
Paris IMedicine Co., Asheville, N. C. 
The Cudahy Packing Co., South Omaha, Neb. 
The Knickerbocker Co., Jackson, Mich., and 

St. Louis, Mo. 
Seneca Gla.ss Co., Morgantown, W. Va. 
The MitcheD-Parks Mfg. Co., St. Louis, Mo. 
Albany Perforated Wrapping Co., Albany,N.Y. 
Anchor Supply Co., Evansville, Ind. 
Baltimore Badge & Novelty Co., Baltimore, Md. 
James S. Barron & Co., New York City. 
Christman & Son, New York City. 



Geo. W. Dunbar's Sons, New Orleans, La. 
Dolphin Paint Co., Portsmouth, Va. 
Gem City Stove Co., Quincy, 111. 
Miles & Gorman, Att'ys-at-Law, Baltimore, Md. 
International Text Book Co., Scranton, Pa. 
E. D. Jones' Sons & Co., Pittsfield, Mass. 
The Robinson Manufacturing Co., Muncy, Pa. 
Louisville Tin & Stove Co., Louisville, Ky. 
LibbeEngineering&ConstructionCo., Toledo, O. 
Lake Torpedo Boat Co., Bridgeport, Conn. 
Miller-Hubbard Mfg. Co., Sturgis, Mich. 
Mobile Spring Bed Co., Mobile, Ala. 
Morgantown Foundry & Machine Co., Morgan- 
town, W. Va. 
Muncie Gas Engine & Supply Co., Muncie, Ind. 
Peyton Chemical Works, San Francisco, Cal. 
Parke, Davis & Co., Detroit, Mich. 
Robert Portner Brewing Co., Alexandria, Va. 
The Piso Company, Warren, Pa. 
Rochester Optical & Camera Co., Rochester, N.Y. 
Schwarz, Schiffer & Co., New York City. 
Standard Oiled Clothing Co., New York City. 
Technical Supply Co., Scranton, Pa. 
The Castotype Co., Chicago, 111. 
Vacuum Dyeing Mach. Co., Chattanooga, Tenn. 
Wallace Supply Co., Chicago, 111. 
West Virginia Steel Co., Wheeling. W. Va. 



Thousand Island House 



Proprietors 

son, care of 
Id Square Hotel 




The Best of All — The Infant's Friend. 

AN OLD AND WELL-TRIED REMEDY. 



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1 840-1 904. Over Sixty Years. 

Mrs. Winslow's Soothing Syrup. 



^ ^ Washington & Florida Limited 



^♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦4 ♦♦♦"' ;.s*^::s:;^ ♦ ♦ ^ 

:: SOUTHERN RAILWAY I 



^ ^ Leaving Washington 10.51 a.m., daily. Through sleepers and |^^ 

"H coaches to Columbia, Savannah, and Jacksonville. Connection for p^^ 

5j^ ^ Aiken, S. C. Connection at Jessup, Ga., for Brunswick and Jekyl ^pl| 

'"^J Island, and at Jacksonville for St. Petersburg and Punta Gorda, i!^ 

^^ Fla. Dining car service. ^0 

s*'^ United States Fast Mail ■ 

^^^ Leaving Washington 11. 15 a. m., daily. Through sleepers and I^J 

^".^ coaches to Atlanta, Montgomery, Mobile, and New Orleans. Dining ^^ 

^ car service. ^^| 

y New York & Atlanta Express ^ 



^^ coaches to Atlanta. Also tri-weekly tourist sleeper to San Francisco, ||p;| 

^'^0 Cal. , leaving Washington each Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. ||i^ 

^^^ New York & Florida Express ^ 

'"^ Leaving Washington 9.50 p. m., daily. Through sleepers to ||^ 

^^ Columbia, Augusta, Savannah, and Jacksonville; through coaches ^^i 

^.^ to Columbia, Savannah, and Jacksonville. Connection for Aiken, |,^p 

^ S. C. Dining car service. 1^1 






^* Washington & Chattanooga Limited 

^ Leaving Washington 10.00 p. m., daily. Through sleepers and ^p| 

H" coaches (via Lynchburg and Bristol) to Knoxville, Chattanooga, ^l| 

"'^0 Memphis, Birmingham, and New Orleans. Dining car service. ^^ 



♦ 



Washington & Southwestern Limited 



M 



*"^ Leaving Washington 10.45 p. M., daily. Solid Pullman train, carry- 1;:^ 

^^ ing through sleepers to Asheville, Knoxville, Chattanooga, Nash- ||^:| 

^!^^ ville, Atlanta, Macon, Birmingham, Memphis, Montgomery, Mobile, ^^ 

^.^ and New Orleans. Club and observation cars. Dining car service. ^^^ 

*♦ DINING CAR SERVICE UNEXCELLED ■ 

^ ^^^ 

^~^ For information as to rates, tickets, schedules, and sleeping' car reservations, apply W^:^, 

^%/y^ to any representative of Passenger Department, Southern Railway, or ^m% 

♦ * L. S. BROWN, General Agent, 

♦ 705 Fifteenth Street, N. W. WASHINGTON, D. C. 

\. 

^ C. H. ACKERT, Gen'l Manager 

%l 



ii 

I 




p.ico»nr:ii^E & Ohio Route 

Au ..\ - 'J)ate Railway foUuwing an Historic Trail 

<ZJ±XGSiei,T>G&,lx.G to tlie Qlixo .... 

Through the Grandest Scener}' in the Eastern States. 




HIGH-CLASS SERVICE BETWEEN New York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, Washing- 
ton, Norfolk, Old Point, Newport News, Richmond, Virginia Hot Springs, and other 
Mountain Resorts, Cincinnati, Louisville, St. Louis, Chicagcj, West and Southwest. 

SCENIC ROUTE TO LOUISIANA PURCHASE EXPOSITION. 

2,500 feet elevation in the Virginia moimtains, where 
the Climate, Waters, Baths, Hotels, and Scenery have 
no equal in America. Rheumatism, gout, obesity, and 
nervous troubles cured. New Golf Club House with 

-^-^—^——^^^^^^^^———— Squash Court, Lounging Rooms, Cafe, Ping- Pong, etc. 

Fine Golf Course, Tennis Courts, Pleasure Pool, Excellent Liver)-, and All Outdoor Pastimes. 



VIRGINIA 



HOT SPRINGS 




THF NEW HOMESTEAD. 

UnquL-slionalily tlu- finest all-year-round resort hotel in America. Jlodern in the strictest sense, con- 
ducted on the broadest lines, and patronized by the highest cla.ss. Brokers' office with direct New York wire. 

THE CHESAPEAKE & OHIO RAILWAY has direct connection for Virginia Hot Springs from the principal 
cities of the Union. Compartment Car from New York without change. 

Excursion tickets and Pullman reservations at C. & O. offices, 363 and 1354 Broadway, New York, 
Cincinnati, Louisville, and Washingtf)n, Big Four Offices, St. Louis and Chicago, and at principal offices 
of connecting lines throughout the country. 

Hotel rates, bookings, and specific information on application to FRED STERRY, Manager, Hot 
Springs, Va. 

For pamphlets and general information as to route, rates, and service, address H. W.- FULLER, 
G. P. A., Washington, D. C. 




H 100 89 






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